Watcher Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I'm working on a 1:35 scale Cromwell. I've airbrushed with various shades of OG and highlighted details by brush. I've done some on-line research but am still rather unclear on the next steps. I think I next need to apply a filter to blend in some of the details. The contrast in my airbrushing isn't too stark but the painted highlights are more noticeable than I would really like. I've looked on-line for a Green filter but there doesn't seem to be much available at the moment - I'm told there is a supply problem. All my painting so far is acrylic so I'm thinking that I could just make up a filter with OG enamel and some white spirit. Is that correct? My next step would then be to apply a coat of Future and then decal and apply some pin washes and shading with thinned oil paint and artists turpentine. Am I still on the right lines? Then a coat of matt acrylic varnish. Then apply some mud, dust and rust. How does all that sound? Grateful your advice. Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Moore Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 That all sounds like a pretty good plan. The steps you've outlined are pretty much the ones I'd do on an armour build. To be honest, I'm not that keen on the commercial filter's out there. Most of them are too thin to make any noticeable difference (for me, at least), so going with thinned enamels or oil paints is usually the way I go. Give the filters a couple of days to fully dry before adding the future coat. Some people prefer to add the pin wash before the decals, as it prevents the wash from catching the edge of the decal's carrier film, but if the decals aren't in the areas you're adding the wash to, it doesn't really matter which order you do it in. I'll often do further weathering with oils after the pin wash and decals, and I find that knocks the gloss finish back without the need for a subsequent matt coat. That way you get a nice variety of sheen across the surface, rather than a solid flat finish Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watcher Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubster72 Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 It's worth mentioning that a filter should be applied over a matt surface. The idea is that the filter gets caught in the microscopic pits & so changes the overall tone of the underlying colour. A good article on filters is here http://missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watcher Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Dubster. The trouble I've had is getting the steps in the right order and the levels of gloss (or matt) likewise. It was much easier in the days when Verlinden was the only way! That was 35 years ago when I last made a tank! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 I can't add much to what's already been said. Like you I took a 35yr break from modelling and found all these new-fangled techniques with varnishes, filters, pin-washes and washes a bit OTT..... Until I realised that I'd been doing very similar way back then purely with enamels. Back then though, I didn't use varnishes as I wasn't overlaying acrylics with enamels. Pin-washes and washes and filters are of course what we called 'wet brushing with thinned enamels' it's just that manufacturers cottoned on to a 'gap in the market' and filled it. Since returning to modelling last year, I have been learning the 'new' techniques and have employed them increasingly on my models. I have yet to try 'chipping' but will be trying it out on my Nashorn. I have used a 'filter' on my previous model, a Quad and 25pdr, but made it myself using Winsor and Newton oil paint thinned down with er... thinner. You have plenty of time to 'move it around' and 'wash on wash off' and it does help increase the depth of colour and tie everything together. Oh, and yes, I applied it AFTER a coat of acrylic varnish. I love the Churchill btw and have a 2nd lined up myself, with PE this time (another new fangled technique) I look forward to seeing yours! Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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