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TristanR

U-991 1/72 Type VIIc U-Boat - Revell

117 posts in this topic

Luckily an end of war u-boat, covered in salt and rust can just about get away with the rough paint job I have!

It's not rough in the slightest it looks great! It was just that earlier in the thread you said:

I mix it with about 30% thinner, the x-20 stuff. I tried water but it's a lot mushier during chipping for me. It has to go on at a high pressure with a lot of paint flow, which means you have to be quick to add a thin coat.

I think the leveling thinner would have made that job easier. Also, I find that regardless of what thinner you're using Tamiya needs about 60/40 thinner/paint as a minimum on most colours. Doing so would have allowed you that little bit more control (you would have been able to lower the pressure substantially for one thing) and made applying the winter white a little easier :)

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I think I will try that, I don't think I've ever thinned the paint that much, so it's good to know I can. I do find XF2 flat white a lot harder to spray than most other tamiya colours. I will definitely try it with levelling thinner. Still so much to learn!

Thanks!

It is rough though, doesn't really come through on the pictures but compared to the sky grey underneath it's a lot chalkier finish.

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It is rough though, doesn't really come through on the pictures but compared to the sky grey underneath it's a lot chalkier finish.

If you've not already coated it with varnish or the like (and it's really bothering you) you could always try wet sanding it a bit with 8-12,000 grit micromesh. The problem with that of course is that with the hairspray you might well end up stripping it all off....so it might not be best to do that on second thought.

But as you say, this is a well used boat, so it's probably appropriate.

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Just come across this build and must say how impressive the U Boat is looking! Love the detail and weathering.

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This september marks one year since I started this!

Anyway, some progress,
I got the 3D printed intake pipe on, Ialmost lines up, It's a little of centre with the schnorkel mast, and a little too forward, but I think I will modify the schnorkel to fit
F158750F-44C4-46BA-8381-7852B1F3E3E3_zps


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There is more soldering to be done, there are 2 more guard rails. The top one is on another laser cut buck I made, it's a very difficult shape to do, as the railing is at a angle and flares out in the middle.

In the deck I cut the postions for all the vertical posts that make up this railing, I copied those positions and included them in this buck, you can see the holes underneath.  This way I can insert the brass into these holes and when it's all soldered together, it should just drop into the corresponding holes on the deck.

219A588D-EECB-4B72-946A-03F10150B767_zps

These rails sit just forward of the tower, and have a wires rails connected to the other railing, hense the little tabs that were spares on the eduard set.

DAE03CA2-7436-4CBA-88E3-BECDE7BEF681_zps

Here's one installed, it wasn't a great fit but lose enough after a fight.

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Underneath you can see how it's held bu the laser cut holes.
D7928661-478F-45DB-9C56-41969D04AC4B_zps

The heat transfer problem I've bee having with these wood bucks went away when I switched to this blowtorch soldering iron

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here they are in place, that's a lot of railing. Got to do the other side now.

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422836F2-8B2C-4D3A-B77C-CA61AEAB15A8_zps

I've been further painting the deck, the photos are not showing it but the deck is a lot browner, and I started putting eduard little hinges on the hatches.
 

110ED87A-65A8-4026-A497-13406A32ED19_zps
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Did some weathering on the guns, and added whiter salt stains to the tops of the saddle tanks,

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F1F4D526-F7A8-4DB4-886F-DA2C44ABB84B_zps
Thanks for looking!

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Great skills on display here, I keep forgetting this is 1/72 :goodjob:

 

Kev

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I done another video, bit crappy still, as only 12% seems to be in focus, hopefully you get the idea though...

 

 

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:goodjob:

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Tristan - this is turning out to be one of the most beautifully weathered models I've seen.  Once again really helpful video.  Astonishing work.  One thing I really like is the texture of roughened peeling paint - Superb!!:worthy:

 

Rob 

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Holy cow, look at that deck and tower. This by far, hands down, the best sub model I have ever seen. You are very skillful model my friend. I sure will hope that you never get burn out with your wip as I'm loving it and learning a lot. Thanks for sharing your work ;)

 

Mike

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Wow, more great finishing - this is looking like it is made from the actual materials that the real thing was made from, and has been to sea for extended periods like the real thing.

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Stunning ... the decking, amongst everything else, in particular is impressive !

 

BillyD

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Amazing job you've done on this boat. I'm very impressed with all the extras you've built and the weathering is superb. Very inspirational. i'm taking notes.

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Thankyou all for the comments, I'm happy to report that I am back on this.  Got really busy recently, but thing have settled down enough that i was able to begin thinking about finishing this.  I have to build a structure around the schnorkel:


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I build a side baffle wall for the recess, also behind it is the mounting for the deleted deck gun.

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Here's the baffle work under the deck, with forward torpedo loading hatch.

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Some 3D printed hatch lids for the ammo containers came in, also the rear lamp.

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Messing with rigging.  My 3D printed isolators have bent a bit, 
i might try to straighten them ib warm water.  I think I will use EZ-line for the rigging, to keep the wholw thing in tension.  I a pain though.

F556C42C-888E-4161-8AC6-1B3DA74F81A7_zps

Cheers!

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I think this is the best U-Boat model I've ever seen.

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Hello,
It's amazing, it's a museum piece, I'm admiring.
Great congratulations.

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So glad you are back on this; simply stunning.

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