Rob 1 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 That is excellent detailed build work, looking really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HL-10 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I've been reading through this from the start and just when I thought it couldn't get any better, you hit us with the work on the Flak guns! It's incredible work, some of the most impressive modelling I have seen in a long while! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve27752 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I can't put this off any longer. I'm going to try and solder up the 30mm. First the hinges for the gun shield, I don't imagine I will get these to work as hinges. I decided to display the shield in the stowed poition, so I need to solder the hinges at 45 degrees. I'm using these offcuts to hold the stuff. Starting to put the thing together, Having to get creative in how I hold all this. I learnt to solder by watching Paul Budzik's videos on the youtubes. I'm applying flux with a syringe to the area I want the solder. Then I am shaving off a sliver of solder, and stick it into the blob of flux. Apply heat and bingo! Holding the barrel straight was tricky I think I mounted the seats too low. The upper two guns required use of kit parts so I just superglued them together. Cheers! Incredible work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngtiger1 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Wow, some amazing work. I love that laser cutter and the detail you created with it. It's a handy little tool for sure. I don't suppose you sell those wooden details? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Tristan Hugely impressive build _ I've just read it start to finish. The Laser cutter is just Amazing. Your solder work is inspirational. Wow!! Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Thanks for the comments guys! Young Tiger, The laser cutter is at work, so I kind of have to sneak in to use it. I have to cut it in three passes, and jus the deck takes about an hour to engrave and cut. I doubt I could get away with producing a lot of them I'm afraid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Some bits, here and there, PE, I opened up these ballast vents (kingstons?) I soldered up this tube that goes on the prow, the little bracket holds the main rigging line, os I want it sturdy Goes in here. I also packed in the bottome of the guns with styrene so I can fit a tiny magnet in. I have one magnet in the deck and another on the bottom of the gun. Works great, I can swivel it and everything. Looks like a messed up some measurements. There is supposed to be a pipe that runs from these holes along the foot of the conning tower. I'm going to do the guardrails in brass, these otherwise perfectly good kit ones are a little too thick. I need some help to hold them in the right shape. So I engraved some channels to place the brass into. Here I am using 0.5mm brass rod, which is half as thick as the kit rails. I am also removing the magnetic compass housing. It looks like a wierd toe, and I prefer the later boats with the separate Askainia housing that sits in front like a little dalek. The boat on the right has the Askania dalek housing in white. Also it has the exterior pipe at the foot of the tower I was talking about earlier. There is a kind of lap weld here between the pressure hull and the plating, sort of looks like this, I also carved out the edges of the pressure hull shape it's supposed to sit behind the plating. Examinging the oil canning in a harsh light bears witness to all these scrape marks, I Am going to try and sand them out to make it look more like steel plate. A bit better, I have rivets to replace too! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Epic ... as usual! But my god man ... don't you eat or sleep during the build? Great idea to use magnet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lancaster Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Brilliant skill! Following this one all the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick C Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Awesome skills on display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Some impressive work going on here Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 Thanks very much folks! Under Deck plumbing. There is a fascinating network of pipes and vents under the deck of one of these things, but since there is only one left intact (U-995) Is pretty hard to get photo reference of it. There are lots of plans available so I am going to try and do a fair job of representing it. I say there are not photos of these thing today, but that's not entirely true. This is the conning tower, or at least the inner part that is connected to the pressure hull. On top of it you can see the Uzo and periscope housing, and behind it (to the right) Are the air intake stacks for the engines and ventilation, the big pipe leads back to the engine compartment. Around the bottom of the tower are some intake vents for flooding the saddle tanks. I'm going to use shapeways 3D printing service, but first I need a 3D model. Since I had the correct dimensions from the wooden internal struture already in the computer, I brought it into a #D modelling package and made a start. The kit hatches are not that great, so I should see if 3D printing is any better. This is the galley hatch. The three main intake vents have these big plugs in the top and are opened by a veritcal shaft that reaches down in to the control room with a wheel on the other end. Since 3D printing is outrageously expensive, I am going to try and size it so I can use Evergreen styrene tube on all the straight pipe sections, here shown in white. I am making up the exhausts, no good reference. I know they come out of the hull around here, and in between them is the aft torpedo loading hatch. The is some kind of plumbing that re-directs the exhaust gasses into the ballast tanks, here in yellow. I'm not sure exactly how it works. On the starboard side, the exhaust gasses are diverted into that complicated valve exchange which routes it to ballast tanks, I think. On top of the conning tower is the main hatch, and behind it is where the attack periscope housing. Here's a link to the final product for the conning tower. https://www.shapeways.com/product/Q9WU4SE26/1-72-type-viic-inner-conning-tower-parts?optionId=59041619 The exhaust system as a separate model, https://www.shapeways.com/product/CJUKK3TEK/1-72-u-boat-exhaust-system?optionId=59449014 The hatches are fun, the hinge works if you jam a 0.4mm brass rod through it. https://www.shapeways.com/product/UJRE4N7GF/1-72-u-boat-hatch-with-hinge?optionId=58791104 With primer on, you can really see the 3D printing artifacts, for a rusty submarine, I think I will get away with it. Cheers! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Rivets. Sanding off rivets on these things is so common Archer make a dedicated set of replacements, including these handy bow pieces. before I tackle that I will get warmed up on less risky parts. I also soldered these little eyelets onto the top piece of bow (I soldered them on before CAing to the hull) they are anchor points for the wire guard rail that runs the length of the boat, but is usually not installed. You can also see the carrier film from the rivet decals which I hope doesn;t show up when painted. Ok, on with the bow. Not entirely sure what the correct layout is, so I might be making this up. Sme of the 3D printed parts being assembled. Leaving the straight parts to be made from styrene tube gives me some freedom in fitting these things as well as save $$. Galley hatch. Cheers! 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngtiger1 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Simply amazing! This is going to be by far the best build Type VIIc U-boat ever. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks YoungTiger! I still have many opportunities to screw this up, and I must admit that I stand on the shoulders of many other great Uboat builders I have seen around here. Before I stick the tower together, I should pain these wooded slats. They were to stop people sticking to frozen metal. Starting off with a nice orange. I have a colour photo on the back of a book, which shows these slats, so I will try and copy it. Darkening with oils. I spend some time with the dremel going over the pressure hull, this isn't exactly accurate, but it's nice to get a different texture between the black steel pressure hull and the zinc galvanized plating. I also scribed a channel between the two to further separate the saddle tanks from the plating. I still have some more riveting to do. As I am leaving the exhaust ports open, I'm going to use this perforated metal tube that I removed from the drawstring on some trousers I have. I t will give a little interest to the exhausts. The #D printed peice comes with a bent pipe so I can fit them into the hull with some adjustment. Here is the plumbing in the rear, at the left are the intake manifolds that going to the engine room, in the middle are the high pressure air tanks, and to the right are the exhaust manifolds, with the rear torpedud loading tube between them. The high pressure tanks are 3D printed end pieces that are sized for evergreen tube, to save moneys as well as to alter the length of the tanks. Another shot of the exhausts, again using styrene tube to adjust the length of the silencers. Up front is the inner conning tower, mainly intake pipes but on either side are the flodding vents to the saddle tanks. Lets hope this #D printed stuff doean;t dissolve over time... Here is the 3D printed loading hatch. Cheers! Edited May 13, 2016 by TristanR 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reserve_22 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) Wtf.I must found my eyes because there are somewear on the floor.You have FANTASTIC hands like a neurochirurg. Edited May 13, 2016 by Reserve_22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Builds like this one are always very special. Great to see someone at the top of the game building. Thanks for sharing this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carius Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 FANTASTIC JOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Blooming' 'eck! I've been away from BM for a while, so am just catching up with a few builds that are new to me. Yours is superb; I'm not really a U-boat fan normally, but this is fantastic work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Moscatelli Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 First thanks to my friend Julian "Gremlin 56" that me sending a notice of this construction. Really stay of opened mouth, I congratulate you!! Without dread of being wrong it is one of the best works in submarines that I see. I am still attentive. Best regards from Uruguay Daniel Moscatelli 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 First thanks to my friend Julian "Gremlin 56" that me sending a notice of this construction. Really stay of opened mouth, I congratulate you!! Without dread of being wrong it is one of the best works in submarines that I see. I am still attentive. Best regards from Uruguay Daniel Moscatelli Most welcome Daniel, knowing the amazing attraction U-boats have on you I just knew you wouldn't want to miss this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUB-SAM Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I'm pretty sure this submarine will actually be able to get underway, dive, adjust trim and sink 1/72 shipping once it's finished. All you need to do now is find the Borrowers to crew it. Very impressive work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TristanR Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thank you all for the comments, very humbling given the strength of the work around here. Hydroplanes. The Kit assumes a pivot running through the width of the plane, there is debate as to whether this is accurate, most of the reference I've seen points to it not being so. I'm going to shave off the pin and bolt. The result is below, I also added a jumping cable, which was likely removed on late war boats, but it adds a nice detail. To attach to the hull, I soldered a brass rod to a spare (I hope it's spare) Eduard pe eyelet. Then I drill a hole into the hull and in it goes (here you see it sticking out a bit) I'm also punching out some more GHG plates, I seem to have removed most of mine. Primer time. Hmm, I guess I should have been more generous with the micro sol on the rivets... I guess I have a new weathering opportunity. The large PE plates needs to come off and go back on. I will try gator grip this time. It's a good job this area will be hard to see. Bow came out ok, but the torpedo doors stick out, which is unfortunate. I might have to address this later. Cheers! 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreadeddrew Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Give yourself a pat on the back mate,this is absolutely outstanding work! Well done, Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planebuilder62 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Dear Tristan I veey much liked your updates on 2 and 5 May, what references do you have to use for the additional detailing and the underdeck piping? This build is fantastic. Regards Toby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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