1/72 Pavla/Octopus Seafire Mk III with Skyfarer Intrusions

[CedB]

Nice.

Alex before you give up on the iPhone camera are you using the built in Flickr app? I've found the IOS camera a bit better and the 'ProCamera' app especially good.

[Ex-FAAWAFU]

Camera+ is very good, too

[AlexN]

Hello Ced and Ex-FAAWAFU,

Welcome to the thead, Ex-FAAWAFU. Thank you both for your suggestions. I have been using the iOS camera app (never even considered using Flickr app for taking snaps - I have a very low opinion of the mobile Flckr apps in general), but bought the Camera+ app some years ago, used it a few times - and forgot about it. I saw it the other day, on the way past looking for another app.

I shall dig it out and try it. I'll have a look at the ProCamera app too - I have acquired a large number of camera apps over the years and that may be amongst them. The little CoolPix L11 is Lord knows where....

I've just been fiddling about with Camera+ with and without the battered "old" (same age as the phone) "Lifeproof" case on the phone and took a couple of snaps of the ipad, one with the "macro" function turned on. The camera seemed to focus a little better with out the case, as would be expected, but I think I can get reasonably close-up and in focus with C+. I'll have a go at snapping Seafire bits with Camera+ when I next get the chance; Cocologics are asking AU$7.99 with "In-App Purchases" (shudder) for ProCamera, so I'll have a closer look at what they offer before springing for that. It seems to have a high review rating 4.5 *), which is a good start. It obviously works well for you, Ced.

I have a more serious look for the CoolPix tomorrow, as I have an idea where it might be. I can't continue inflicting such risible snaps on the viewing public - most impolite!

Cheers,

Alex

[AlexN]

The CoolPix's whereabouts were unearthed this morning - we had given it back to my father-in-law. My wife took pity on me, however, and has lent me her small Sony camera, on the condition that I don't smother it in epoxy glue and paint (like the poor Canon) - to which condition I naturally submitted!

It's an 8.1 Mpix Cybershot DSC-T100 with a 5x optical zoom Zeiss Vari Tessar lens . It not only has a (working) macro function, but als an extra extra-close macro function (which also works)! It's a great little camera that I had forgotten about, partly because of the terrible way that I have treated my own camera (bodies - not lenses I hasten to add) in the past. And, of course, my wife sensibly had no intention of letting her little pet anywhere near the boat-building!

It is currently having its rather flat Li-ion battery charged, since it hasn't been used for quite a few years. I will try it out and post some revised snaps of the arrestor gear as soon as practicable.

The welding bench has had its second coat of zinc paint, and I'm hoping to flip it over (in a manner of speaking) tomorrow arvo. That's the final (and two-hour) painting chore done! Hooray!

Cheers,

Alex.

[AlexN]

Right. Some progress: I have taken some snaps with the new pocket camera, and found that it pleases me well. I have also turned over and "installed" the welding bench, and put the little welding unit back in its little house (some documenting snaps can be found in my Flickr account).

Here are the first snaps taken with the "new" Sony DCS-T100, ratcheted back to 5 Mpix:

1. Seafire arrestor hook, dorsal view, taken with the little Sony Cybershot DSC-T100 - first snap.

2. Seafire arrestor hook, side view; a bit out of focus on the LHS, but in-focus where I wanted it to be, i.e., the hook itself. Also a lot closer than I can get with the iPhone and the poor Canon. And sharper. And much, much easier!

3. Seafire arrestor hook, ventral view. Beautiful close-up of the scored cutting mat, too; this is the good mat

4. View of rear fuselage parts of Seafire, showing partially-flashed-over arrestor hook cutout. Central portion in focus, not just the top edge of the snap

5. Close-up of the larger resin cockpit parts. Again, a bit out of focus (narrow focal plane) at the bottom, but I was starting to really push the camera here. It's still doing better than the phone camera - as one would expect. Note that you can see what I meant by the sanding residue getting stuck in nooks and crannies. I obviously haven't dug out the dishwashing liquid and toothbrush yet

6. Seafire resin exhaust stubs. Now that we can actually get things in focus, the rather block-like nature of said stubs can be seen quite clearly. Nice crisp snap - I'm very pleased with that

7. Seafire's resin cockpit aft former/set-frame, aft face: closer and closer. Note the very fine resin detail. This time, you can actually see the very fine resin detail. I suppose I should drill out the frame's lightening holes - if I can find my little set of small number drills. I have already done a bit of trimming of the flash - hence the break in the resin "cable", clumsy oaf

8. Surprise! I rather like this snap of the new sail newly-(re-)rigged on my little boat, so I thought that I would share it with you all. The technical term for this type of sail is a lugsail (phone camera snap)

9. Headlight - an essential item from the old workshop. It will still be useful in this one. New batteries recently installed. You can tell that it belongs to a boat-builder on account of the blob(s) of epoxy glue on it (all over it in fact). Canon SX1 snap

10. Filled-in cockpit door mistakes using PPP. This snap has me pushing the camera almost as far as it can go - about 10 millimetres or so from the subject. Excellent! I could turn this into a high-altitude PR Seafire at this point, ha ha

Follow this link to my Flickr account

I now, therefore, have one or even two less excuses for not doing some stuff on the little Seafire. I am also thoroughly delighted with my new photographic tool - hey, I can call my snaps photos now! (Not a chance, sorry, chum.)

Cheers,

Alex.

[brianthemodeller]

Brilliant - thanks!

[CedB]

Much better shots Alex, thanks. I should have asked before but, if you're happy to admit this in public, which iPhone do you have?

I can of course boast (correct 'big head' term) a 6S and I think the camera was much improved... again.

[AlexN]

Thank you very much, Brian and Ced.

The camera situation was driving me up the wall. I've got an iphone 5s, which is getting a bit long in the tooth now: I have put off getting the 6 and 6s, and now the 7 is supposedly waiting in the wings for me to put off getting as well. I need to make a decision about whether to stay with my current phone company or not, and vacillating over that is confounding the issue. I have to say that while I understand the various reasons my tech companies crank out regular bestest new models on a regular basis, part of me finds it all rather annoying.

The 5s's camera was a distinct improvement over that in the 4, although that isn't saying very much - having had a Leica SLR 35 mm film camera and lenses, plus a Rolleiflex TLR medium format camera, I tend to look down my overly large beak at what I call "pinhole" cameras in phones (a pinhole camera can be very sharp so this is not really a good comparison, and in any case the phone cameras have somewhat larger apertures).

That's not to say that I don't admire the miniaturisation of technology in phone cameras - pretty amazing in fact - but my current phone just doesn't cut it with close-ups, and the battered case doesn't help much.

Still, with the advent of the "new" old-ish camera on loan from my wife, I don't have to worry about phone cameras for a bit - thank goodness. I have been getting the screaming heebie-jeebies continually posting substandard snaps - annoying and frustrating, but no more! Hooray!

Cheers,

Alex.

[TonyTiger66]

The pictures really are a lot clearer Alex. I noticed you like Leica. I use a little Panasonic camera for my pics and it has....a Leica lens!

I dropped my iPhone (basic 6) in a bowl of salad dressing some time ago and the camera has never been the same since, hence the need for the little Panasonic:

These little cameras are worth keeping .

I wanted to ask what you think of the Perfect Plastic Putty? I don't seem to be able to get the best out of it. I can't seem to sand it with fine grades, it seems just break away rather than sand. It looks to have filled in your lines well.

Nice sail!

Best regards

Tony

[AlexN]

Thank you, Tony. I used a "Delta" brand black (fine) sanding sponge-stick (the ones that come in a set of four grades/colours and look like over-sized tongue depressors) on its very ends to get up close to the longitudinal stiffening strip below the cockpit door hinge line. And light pressure. I finished up with the no. 10 scalpel blade, again with light pressure.

The PPP seemed to react fine, although it may have been left to dry out for up to a week before I sanded it back: at least five days minimum anyway. I found it easy to apply and work, although I have my doubts about how it will react when I try to re-scribe the panel lines. I had success by "sneaking up" on it, heeping the stick at an angle and sanding down onto it, if that makes any sense. When it comes to the scribing I may yet be breaking out the plastic soup or the Milliput (fantastic stuff, must remember to get some of the black).

The only thing that concerns me about the PPP (packaging) is that the manufacturer doesn't supply a tip-cap for the very useful nozzle - unless they did and I lost it - so the stuff is eventually going to harden in the tube if not used regularly. That could be overcome to a reasonable extent by storing it in a zip-lock plastic food bag or similar. Re-fitting the screw-on tube cap would be far too wasteful.

Our Panasonic mini-tape camcorder - almost the last of a great line before they went fully digital (hmm) - has a Leica lens, but I seem to have mislaid (lost?) its charger. Much searching has failed to find it, and it may have been lost when we moved house a couple of years ago. Great camera while it was working.

Cheers,

Alex.

[TonyTiger66]

Thanks for the info on the PPP Alex. I agree about the nozzle. I've been jamming tooth picks in the end but moe often than not they snap off, so your solution with a zip lock bag has been duly noted!

If you search on Evilbay with the model number of your Panasonic, I'm almost certain you'll find a charger for it.

The Chinese seem to be producing chargers and cables for everything; I got one for a 13 year old Sony, for $12 with free postage!

I was also able to get a much better battery than the original. It's nice to get these things working again; they're really fun and good little tools

Best regards

Tony

[rob85]

Hey Alex, just found this! Looks like you have a lot of work on your hands rather you than me! And by that I mean I am happy to watch...

Cheers

Rob

[AlexN]

Hello Tony and Rob,

Welcome to my slowly-dragging thread, Rob. It isn't likely to pick up much over the next few weeks either, as we are getting ready to leave for a short holiday to Bonnie Scotland to visit my wife's aunt and family at Sandbank, near Dunoon on the Holy Loch. Leaving in a week's time, in fact.

I have implemented my ziplock bag solution, Tony - I also do this to the Pacer series of CA glues which also (but for reasons of build-up of glue on nozzle and cap - and laziness) have a similar problem with glue going off in the bottle. Some people pop their CA in the fridge, but I have never had any success with that. Having got to the PPP rather late in the piece, the filler has predictably dried out in the tip and I will have to prod it with a toothpick. This where the friable nature that you noted will actualy come in useful!

Thank you for the fleabay tip - I seem to have developed an irrational aversion to it recently and I can't think why. I never had any trouble in the past either buying (always checked the seller's reputatuion first!) or selling. Odd. Maybe it's signs of me turning into an irrascible silly ol' goat (it wouldn't be the first one). It would be very good to get the old girl working again.

Since it's virtually impossible to get any useful links out of Flickr on the ipad (either on a web brower or most especially Flickr's awful standalone app; don't get me started - there's another sign of incipient goatness), I'm adding a placeholder for a snap that I took last night of another useful modelling-applicable tool; I'll update this post with the link shortly. I can copy the caption using the web browser interface on the ipad, thankfully:

1. "Boa-constrictor" lid remover: excellent for dealng with recalcitrant modelling paint jars - e.g., Gunze, Tamiya and Testors (where my paint collection is concerned). There is a larger one slithering around somewhere, too, opens jam jars a treat. Note that I arbitrarily grabbed the nearest paint jar from a drawer - Japanese WWII propeller colour won't be going on the Seafire!

Follow this link to my Flickr account

I have been idly toying with the idea of using contact adhesive (sparingly applied) to attach the now-flexible resin cockpit walls to the plastic fuselage parts. I intend to do a test on suitable bits of scrap to test this. Anyone got any comments, advice, etc., such as "Don't do it, it'll end in tears!"? The main objection that I can foresee is the lining up of the bits: if it's wrong at the start, it will stay irremediably wrong, since contact glue solvent (mineral turps, xylene, etc.) will also - and more rapidly - dissolve the plastic. Hmm... Maybe slow-set/gel CA would be better after all (I do have a tube of that).

Cheers,

Alex.

[AlexN]

Really quick An updated update:

1. Seafire seat sawn off its pour stub, Radu Brinzan's PE razor saw blade in Exacto handle in background. The bottom face of the seat was sanded smooth with a coarse "Delta" sanding stick. At least the top of the seat's in focus...

Not too pleased with my snappery in snap no. 1 above, so I took another one of the bottom of the seat...

2. Another snap of the seafire seat - bottom

3. Packet of RB Productions' Micro Saws: photo-etched saw blades

4. Resin cockpit wall after cleaning with toothbrush, 150 ml of tap-water and two drops of dishwashing detergent. The part isn't perfect to begin with; the soapy water and toothbrush got rid of most of the resin sanding residue, though (I just spotted a bit that I missed - or it might be stuck-and-torn-off moulding rubber). And looking at it at this maginication is probably a bit unfair, anyway

5. Since I had the camera out, I decided to try and take a snap or two of a reasonably far-advanced model - in this case a Tamiya 1/48 FW 190 A-something; just to show that I have occasionally got past the cutting-off-bits stage. This model has appeared before, in my DIY intro thread, and I thought that I would try a more detailed snap for fun. Paints are probably Gunze, although they might be Tamiya or Humbrol or Model Master - I can't remember. Some flavour of RLM66 in any case. I think that the filler strip along the starboard wing root is either some Gunze "Dissolved Putty", or maybe Humbrol. The dihedral is seriously out of kilter so I may break the model apart one day and re-do. Sorry about the underexposure...

6. FW 190 A-3 cockpit view with flash-burn. Sorry about the overexposure

5. Same as preceding snap, but underexposed - I might try turning the camera upside down in similar future circumstances, or try some other form of lighting. The canopy wheel on the upper right cockpit side was actually moulded from PU resin, using a DIY silicone rubber mould as a test run of the process (which process I then used to mould rudder halves for a 1/32 Trumpy MiG-3). Sorry about the underexposure.

Follow this link to my Flickr account

Not too pleased with my snappery in snap no. 1 above, so I took another one of the bottom of the seat.

The razor saw was a lot more flexible than those that I've used in the past: on the other hand, the kerf was probably thinner. As a result of said flexibility, I had to be a lot more careful than usual, too, which still didn't stop slippages and jagging thin cuts where they shouldn't have been. A bit of suitable filler will disappear the evidence, and in any case the slips are in areas that won't be seen in the finished model.

I have been giving a bit o' thoughtt to which paints I might use for the interior. I am inclined to use an enamel, of which I have several brands of "RAF Interior Green". These include Hannants, Humbrol (??? - probably not with the right name, given Humbrol's apparent and rather weird latter-day aversion to giving a given paint the right name), Model Master and Revell (see comment re Hu paint: Revell are even worse for matching one of their range to a desired paint - unless one has a handy conversion chart).

At this point I think I'll open up the Hannants (X10), the Model Master (2062) and the Hu (78, "Cockpit Green", hmm...), give them a thorough stir/add ball bearing(s) (MM) and do test swatches. These are all matt finishes, and will be applied with a hairy stick: working on the test swatches will determine how much thinning - if any - might be necessary. I have lots of different thinners, for enamels, acrylics, lacquers, etc., etc., etc. I will of course, be using enamel thinners...

Those wondering why I have interjected an FW 190 into the thread, it really is to make up with not having done anything constructive (as it were) with the Seafire. I've got a few things to do before our pending holiday, and the Seafire has been bumped down the list somewhat, as a result.

[Nigel Heath]

Looking good to me.

[Nigel Heath]

You can never have too many clamps

I like this so much and have to agree whole heartedly. I have confronted issue this many times.

[AlexN]

Thank you for your kind remarks, Nigel. I have added extra snaps to my preceding post - some of which have nothing to do with 1/72 Seafires but have a lot to do with my ill-fated "DIY" thread. They are actually new snaps to try out the little Sony a bit more, since I need to come to grips with it: it is quite a different beast from its predecessors.

I'm glad that you like my signature - I thought you might. I have been looking at some boat-building threads on the WoodenBoat forum recently (the very same signature appears in my WoodenBoat persona, too), in which there are clamps as far as the eye can see. And which I am going to have to acquire for the next boat. Actually, acquire the sheet of 12 mm plywood and make the clamps. But that is a completely different bucket o' snakes from the subject of this thread, so I had better snap back into focus before I get the thread locked, and me permanently banned.

Cheers,

Alex.

[CedB]

Looking good Alex - nice detail on that resin.

Good luck with the paints and matching 'interior green'... there are lots of reference shots on the 'net

Just go with the one you like best.

[AlexN]

Thanks, Ced. The detail is good - especially for the scale. You can see why Pavla ditched the kits to concentrate on what they're good at.

I like the idea of choosing the colour that I like the most!

There are some air bubbles in the bottom of the seat that will be easily dealt with with some filler applied with a toothpick.

Speaking of fillers, I made some "soup" yesterday, by chopping up some bits of idle runners from the Seafire kit's sprue (singular) into about 3 - 4 mm lengths and covering with the same volume (or a bit more) of Tamiya Extra Thin cement and leaving for 24 hours. It seems to have worked really well - the sprue pieces appear to have completely dissolved into the glue, giving a rather thick goop which could do with some more TET. That's actually a step forward!

I'm also going to sort through the paints for a dark brown-red that will look like Bakelite, for the seat.

[AlexN]

Some musings on paint:

1. Bakelite paint candidates no. 1. The object in the foreground is a piece of bakelite (Skyfarer aileron control horn) for comparison. Any of these could do, really. Note the (unpainted) seat sitting on top of the jar of "Cocoa Brown"

2. Bakelite paint candidates no. 2. Possibly not as good matches as first set of candidates, but not bad either. Maybe I'll make up a mix of all six...

3. RAF Interior Green BS283; Gunze Sangyo "Mr.Color" lacquer paint. I'm curious to see what "3/4 Flat" looks like in reality

Follow this link to my Flickr account

I have yet to dig out the other various "RAF Interior Greens" - will locate them in my handy database first, then go looking for numbers in the drawers; easy. The Bakelite sample shown above has cloth stiffening layers: I will do some digging in my Spitfire snap archive to see if the seats were made of fortified Bakelite or not.

[AlexN]

And here's a snap of the seat:

1. Seat from a Spitfire Mk VIII: from the late Col Paye's (operational) aircraft (sold to the Temora museum before he died). Snap taken at Temora Aviation Museum, near Wagga Wagga in southern NSW, October 2013. This is the a/c done up in the markings of the "Grey Nurse" (as in shark) Squadron, RAAF

Follow this link to my Flickr account

Note the RAF Interior Green on the seat frame and metal stiffening strips on the seat itself. I wish I'd taken a snap from the back, don't know why I didn't. With regards to the seat colour in the model, I think I'll go with the 47 "Red Brown", possibly dry-brushed with some of the darker colours with matt clear over the top.

The Fw190 appearing in a preceding post is an A-3 - before the aerial mast was added to the top of the fin in the A-4, instead of emerging from (or entering) the top front corner of said fin via a strain-relief as in the A-3.

[AlexN]

Latest "progress":

1. Seafire seat painted with a base coat of Gunze Sangyo Aqueous No. 47 "Red Brown" gloss paint. Some "weathering" with dry-brushed darker colours to follow, plus painting of armoured backplate and seat-pan rim stiffeners. Painting the seat is step No. 1 in the instructions. In close-up that seat-pan edge is a lot thicker than I realised, but I am disinclined to thin it down: I have already knocked off the seat height adjustment handle, which the floor monster has devoured with typical alacrity

2. Gunze Sangyo "Mr.Color" No. 364 RAF Interior Green showing actual pigment, before shaking up with a paint-stirring steel ball. This will go on the seat armour-plate - and the rest of the interior, of course

3. Elaborate nozzle cap - a zip-lock bag. This will hopefully slow the drying out of the filler via the uncapped tip. The omission of a nozzle cap is odd, given the heavy-duty cap on DM's "Roket' CA bottles...

4. Plastic "soup" - polystyrene sprue pieces dissolved in plastic cement. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement used in this instance

5. Spitfire Mk VIII seat viewed from the starboard side. I can see now why I didn't snap the back of the seat assembly - although I wish that I had tried, now, of course. Note the seat height adjustment lever in the foreground - and the parachute pack and port tailwheel door in the background

Follow this link to my Flickr account

Note that the seat colour is a little more brown than it appears in snap no. 1 above. I also didn't bother with the putty as the bubbles hadn't popped and are now hidden by paint.

That's probably going to be it before we go away, although one should never say never.

[CedB]

Good choice on the base colour Alex and bad luck with the height adjuster... tiny part and easily lost

The 'soup' looks good and I'll look forward to seeing how you get on with it, although hopefully you won't have to use it too much!

[AlexN]

As I said above, never say never...

1. Seat "masked" for painting armour backplate, CA-ed to a bamboo kebab skewer for support

2. Back of painted armour backplate, Gunze Sangyo "Mr.Color" No. 364 RAF Interior Green used

3. Front of painted armour backplate. The apparent bit of "red-brown" overpainting is actually where I missed with the Interior Green on the unpainted resin. Not a very good job, I have to say: rushing to much. Thinning the paint slightly would have helped

Follow this link to my Flickr account

I'll sort this out when I get back: some seat-belt painting to do too.

[AlexN]

Good choice on the base colour Alex and bad luck with the height adjuster... tiny part and easily lost

The 'soup' looks good and I'll look forward to seeing how you get on with it, although hopefully you won't have to use it too much!

Thank you for your kind words - it's a pity that my follow-up with the interior green was so slapdash. A bit of scraping with the no. 10 blade and repainting will fix that - when I get back.

Have to say that I'm slightly surprised that there hasn't been any comment on my snaps of the Spitfire seat - I didn't think that they were that bad! Maybe we're the only two people left on this thread, Ced! Thank you for your support .

Cheers,

Alex.