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1/18 Spitfire Mk. XIVe - Race #80


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Peter, your Spitfire is looking absolutely stunning. It's a true work of art.

You do realise though that when you are finished, you must embark on a nation wide tour to show it off properly :)

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18 hours ago, cngaero said:

Peter, ..

.... when you are finished, you must embark on a nation wide tour to show it off properly :)

 

Why nation wide ???????

 

WORLD wide is what this piece of art deserves !!!!!

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Peter,  I am building this plane in 1/48 using the Academy kit plus some corrections.  I have a question about the bulges on the upper wing.  I would like to add them but have no references as to size and exact location.  Would it be possible for you to post this information?  TIA

Bill R.

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There you have it folks.

This thread has become an official "reference" for others to use.

 

 

 

As for the "world tour" of this build... I'll repeat the suggestion that fuel could be put into the tanks, the starter button pressed and the thing would want to fly!

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Hi folks :)

 

Thanks for all your kind comments :)

 

On 22/05/2017 at 11:48 PM, cambridge said:

i feel it would even be a pity to paint it. it looks just good as it is.

 

Oh, it won't be painted :) just the markings it wore for the race in 1949 - in fact it is highly likely I will never paint a model again as I like working in metal, and I like the look of it once complete - the only issue will be what I might choose to model - anything with a prop in NMF is a big range of choices :)

 

 

On 22/05/2017 at 5:06 PM, dave665 said:

:wow:Nice post Peter... You spoil us!

 

 

Agree with gingerbob... The canopy should be the same between these two marks. I believe I checked the top drawing here against photos of XIVe.

 

 

 

Thanks Dave - helps to confirm as I have some good drawings I can use :)

 

so, onto the stabilisers - first they were fixed permanently with JB Weld adhesive - this is amazing stuff for where strength is required, particularly on a smooth surface like this - I CA'd them first, but then bumped one and with a crack it just popped off so went back and used the JB and now I could pull a train with them :)..

 

..once on, the question of how to do the fillets needed answering - I used drawings to make tape templates of the shape borders involved - there are actually three panels - a nose cap and two upper and lower fillets...

 

WIP1347_zpsnxbz93hk.jpg

 

..the tape helped in adding filler to radius the joint between the stabiliser and the fuselage...

 

WIP1348_zpsxtjdjrj0.jpg

 

..once the filler was blended, the outlines were defined in tape - this is so when I burnish ali into the shape, I can get a reference border for later cutting the part from the sheet..

 

WIP1349_zpsrb3e7uea.jpg

 

..then a sheet of soft ali is taped down and the labourious process of working the shape starts - it is hard to see here, but I could not do the nose cap in one piece as the metal got too thin, started to crack and was generally beyond my capabilities :)

 

I decided to do it in upper & lower sections & try & hide the join..

 

WIP1350_zps0kzaotqr.jpg

 

,,after some work I hade the basic fairing complete - you can see the join that shouldn't be there at about 7 o'clock.. (trying to hide it and then telling everyone doesn't really work does it?)

 

WIP1351_zpsytpjuehu.jpg

 

..once the fillet was refined, I added the fastener pattern as seen on the drawings..

 

..it is not perfect, but it will do for me,,

 

WIP1352_zpshfbkhq3s.jpg

 

WIP1356_zpsv2nw46b3.jpg

 

..the underside was also done, the shapes of the fairings are quite distinctive..

 

WIP1354_zpsz1yxphhc.jpg

 

WIP1353_zps77goqlzq.jpg

 

WIP1355_zpslgewvt9j.jpg

 

..hope to do the other side and the wingtips over the long weekend, so will be back soon :)

 

TTFN

Peter

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Hi folks :)

 

thanks for stopping by

 

I needed to finish all the skinning, so the wingtips are up next..

 

first a tape template, here the tape kinks a bit on the bottom side as it doesn't like compound curves either..

 

WIP1357_zpsygv09cnx.jpg

 

..the tape is then transferred, cut out and taped / shaped to the tip starting from the top seam first...

 

WIP1358_zpse8rnenid.jpg

 

..this one was rivitted on the top seam to start with, and you can see it keeps its shape quite well..

 

WIP1362_zpspcvi6wrt.jpg

 

..moving on to the nav light area - on TZ138 this is plated over so that made it easier - here a sheet has been tapped into shape and the borders run around with a cocktail stick to define them..

 

WIP1359_zpssa5udcrw.jpg

 

..this is then cut & shaped to fit, but even then the bottom seam still needed trimming to match the panel line..

 

WIP1360_zpsv89oz23c.jpg

 

..both wingtips are now complete - the wrapping is back on the airframe so just the tips are showing...

 

WIP1361_zpseyg4ba4q.jpg

 

 

..moving on to the canopy..

 

 

 

ok they are highback dimensions, but screen too both armoured and X1X curved, so do not know if they help, 9 drawings uploaded

https://flic.kr/s/aHskXGLjeG

 

thanks Tony - very useful, I did start to make use of the XIV drawings in the monforton book, and used the drawings to construct a three dimensional template..

 

WIP1363_zpsofmykhlb.jpg

 

..this is then loosely filled with P38 filler..

 

WIP1364_zpsophf6fvw.jpg

 

..refined down to the template outline..

 

WIP1365_zpsjtqbllqf.jpg

 

..and ultimately the complete mould - I need to add to it so it moulds properly and will likely cast it in resin as I have had trouble in the past with primer coming off due to the heat etc..

 

WIP1366_zpsobpax3it.jpg

 

..need to do the windscreen next as there is a curved bit at the top,,

 

TTFN

Peter

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evening folks :)

 

so, it's been a few weeks and I am not sure I have too much to show for it, other than an enhanced level of frustration. Vacforming and working the transparencies is not something I look forward to as such care is needed, and there is afine (and very invisible) line between success and failure..

 

I started by making a mould (or plug?) for the main canopy and the very top of the windshield. I only need the top as the rest is made from flat sheets which I can keep from getting distorted by the vacforming process..

 

I have had trouble in the past where the mould has different things that make it up (wood, plastic, filler) and these react differently with the heated plastic, so this time I thought I would make a resin plug to keep it consistent... here it is before the compound is put in..

 

WIP1367_zps9mbwcel2.jpg

 

..while I was waiting for the stuff to go off I tried pulling a copy from the master to see what happened.. I had also drilled holes in it to get the suction into the underpull area..

 

WIP1368_zpsel3q1xli.jpg

 

..it turned out ok, but not good enough - there were a few minute bubble like flaws & distortions and also some sort of seam lines where the plastic card was used in the plug to dictate the shape of it..

 

you can also see here the resin mould - this has been a shocker - the moulding material had loads of bubbles so when I cast a copy it was filled with pinholes - I layered on old mr surfacer and spray primer but kept getting nicks & fingerprints in it while handling...

 

it took a few days to realise my primer must be off so I stripped it and did it all again - I am still struggling to get a glass like finish and have been at it for a week with about 10 coats & tries so am getting a bit peeved with it :)

 

WIP1371_zpsxyb6to8c.jpg

 

..to relieve the boredom, I started on the windshield - using plans & measurements from the model to start construction..

 

WIP1369_zpsij0trytu.jpg

 

..the flat panels were easy, but it took many crash moulded attempts to get the little rounded crown piece at the top to fit.. the one in place is white because it still has the protective film on it..

 

..the black edges are done with a sharpie as it instantly removes any sense of thickness of the material..

 

WIP1370_zpsdlh9nvfz.jpg

 

..and the assembled part - it is filthy & covered in fingerprints, but the most difficult part is using CA and not scarring the part with vapour leaving a white mark...

 

WIP1372_zpsicuw5mom.jpg

 

..the actual windshield is thicker so I made up a laminate part with the fixing detail that will be added to the inside of the main part along with interior framing..

 

WIP1373_zpsdk9vxmea.jpg

 

..and a sort of mock-up of how it is starting to look..

 

WIP1374_zpsuhug4kkx.jpg

 

WIP1375_zpska1qtlxs.jpg

 

..I don't doubt pulling a good canopy will likely send me over the edge...

 

..by the way, does anyone know if dipping the mould part in future for a nice glossy finish would work, or would it cause problems with the heated plastic?

 

TTFN

Peter

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Welcome back!

 

Far be it for me to advise you, but here is some advice!  I've heard (but not done it myself) that dipping clear parts in Kleer/Future/whatever will prevent them fogging when using superglue, so that may be useful for assembling the windscreen?

 

Quite how you then affix that to the sheet metal is another matter....

 

HTH

 

Trevor

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Peter you need the canopy plug to have a glossy shiny finish. I worked making specialist rubber parts as a summer job in my youth and all the metal molds were very highly polished. It may also help if you had vertical or outward sloping surfaces below the canopy on the plug. Ideally you don't want any angles of less than 90° on the plug. You can scribe cut lines in to the plug to assist removing the finished canopy from the molded sheet.

 

Another trick I've heard of is to mold two separate sheets over the plug. You mold one sheet to cover the plug giving it a nice glossy surface. Trim off the excess plastic effectively giving you a plastic coated plug. Then you can mold a second sheet to make the finished part. Obviously the first sheet doesn't need to be clear plastic.

 

Dave

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Yup, polish the plug like crazy. We used to use brasso and buffing machines to get the shine. Then waxed the guano out of it (at least 10 coatings) since the layup was in GRP with gelcoat.

 

Would the front section be easier to build in metal/pewter? You are comfortable with this medium and it is also correct for the construction method of the 1:1 A/c, being metal frame with glass panels.

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Hi Peter,

 

I realize I don't have the perspective that you have, but at this resolution and scale, your canopy looks great.  Future would be a good way to go but I would test on one of your failed attempts.  (Including test shots for gluing frames in place)  Dittos to the comments above. 

 

Excellent as usual!  I know growing pains are just that...a pain.  But you do get stronger and better if steadfast! 

 

Standing ovation continues from the Peanut Gallery!

 

PR

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Once again super work, the canopy is really bringing it to life.

 

i've had some modes successes with covering sanded down original plastic parts with metal tape to shield them from the heat and use them as a mold, but of course in a much smaller scale.

 

Here's a nice picture of the real thing. interesting, the canopy covers the forward interior frame, something that's hard to see when not up close

DSC02717%201.jpg

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15 hours ago, Max Headroom said:

Welcome back!

 

Far be it for me to advise you, but here is some advice!  I've heard (but not done it myself) that dipping clear parts in Kleer/Future/whatever will prevent them fogging when using superglue, so that may be useful for assembling the windscreen?

 

Quite how you then affix that to the sheet metal is another matter....

 

HTH

 

Trevor

Forensic Scientists use Cyanoacrylate fumes to detect latent fingerprints as it bonds to the grease better than fingerprint powder. I discovered this to my cost reassembling a telescope that I thought I had cleaned the lenses very thoroughly...

I have gone over to using PVA for fixing canopies now.

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evening folks :)

 

thanks for all the tips, and the feedback on using future on the canopy mould. I have been using good primers and micromesh (wet) up to 12000 grade, but under the light I can still see some scratches & imperfections - mind you, I haven't tried since I stripped it so I am sure when I get my focus back on it then it will be fine :)

 

..it's not just getting the mould right - once that is done I actually need to pull a good copy - I have just restocked on PETG so am all set when the time comes..

 

in the meantime this is what I am trying to reproduce (and thanks for that pic Lunarhighway :)) - notice the framing layout and the 'ears' at the bottom of the frame that fair it into the fuselage..

 

WIP1384_zps2t0hori7.jpg

 

..I started by laying down the windshield frame first, then the rear strip where it meets the canopy, followed by the windshield vertical frames... all were done either with CA and an airbrush to keep the vapour at bay (and avoid misting), or with contact adhesive - either way, one screw up and it's over and I need to start again.. I will definately look into Permabond CA as if that is fortransparencies it would really help my nervous system :)

 

..the sheet part is the start of the 'ears' - I shaped it to the fuselage and could easily mark out the shapes to get the right profile and a good fit with the windshield..

 

WIP1376_zpsdt6wcgj2.jpg

 

..the ears stop short at the front as this whole area is capped with a fairing that contains the de-icer spray bar (and that will come later, plus all the top framing needs adding..

 

WIP1377_zps3iurokx9.jpg

 

..and with the ears and side frames added..

 

WIP1378_zps9mhbcdhp.jpg

 

WIP1379_zpss5vlrf5f.jpg

 

..and a dry fit on the airframe - once it is finished I will make it a nice snug fit before actually adding it much later when the wheel wells have been detailed and the radiators added..

 

WIP1382_zpsvdw0ibpb.jpg

 

WIP1383_zpsem7bjsrm.jpg

 

WIP1381_zpscvavhrkm.jpg

 

WIP1380_zpsbqybziyj.jpg

 

thats it for now - back soon :)

 

TTFN

Peter

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