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Airbrush help. Neo.


rockpopandchips

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Did you use an aggressive cleaner on your airbrush? That may have attacked the ring. I must be lucky as mine is still going strong after 4 years. Just used it earlier on this evening for the first time since October and no problems.

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I have a Neo and I could not get into the airbrush thingy with it, despite hours reading tips on here and you tube vids. If its still up the man cave you can have it for spares if you wish ! just pay the postage.

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The rubber O ring the from nozzle on the neo iwata has fallen to bits.

Can i still use the brush without it or are there any temp ghetto fixes?

Short answer is no. It's a seal.

Replacements are available as a spare part item (200798) aka (N 145 1) if it's the O ring I think you are referring to. They should be easily procurable as the Neo is a popular airbrush well supported in the UK and elsewhere because of its affordability.

Always keep a spare or two on hand as they are a consumable with a limited service life prone to damage by overtightening or regular use of aggressive solvents in cleaning sometimes necessary with solvent paints if not cleaned immediately after use.

One of the things I prefer about Badger's venerable IL 150's PTFE seals. Whilst they too can be damaged by overtightening or solvents, they are less suceptable and last a lot longer IME.

Iwata OEM genuine rubber seals are good quality though, whereas the ones supplied with the £10 Chinese Fengda et al clones are rubbish.

Edited by Bigglesof266
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Was cleaning with Alclad AB cleaning smells a lot like nail polish remover to me.

Alclad II is a high solvent lacquer. Whatever you choose to clean with will be O ring unfriendly. Acetone is probably the cheapest option and no more aggressive than its expensive thinners or compatible lacquer thinners.

PTFE seals last longer with acetone, lacquer or GP enamel thinners. If after flushing you disassemble and wash in a soapy solution prior to storage whether overnight or long term, they'll last for an age.

Edited by Bigglesof266
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The nozzle O ring on the Neo CN is a standard rubber ring, and can degrade very quickly depending on the paint and cleaners used.

The O rings are £5 each, but the importers suggest you should change the whole Nozzle assembly at £15.

It is a tiny O ring and tiny thread on the nozzle, so could be difficult to put ptfe tape on it.

You could try a rubber glue on the front of the brush where the nozzle screws into, this may seal it for now.

This problem is one of the reasons I point people to the H&S Ultra these days.

Paul

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Thanks for allyour help, i shouldn't complain to much about the brush as it was secondhand but i did replace the seals when i got it.

Anyway im giving the ptfe tape a go. I havr put it on the threads and the rolled up some tape into a sausage to make type of O ring. The brush worked last night with water and no O ring, so as long as the ptfe stays put it should to be ok.

http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o513/brian07900/Mobile%20Uploads/20160213_083758_zpsgpimk2nq.jpg

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I had a Neo and the seals fell apart too, still for £45 brand new I got my money's worth out of it.

Don't be put off the Iwata brand because of the Neo, it's made in China to a much cheaper spec than their Japanese built airbrushes. I now own 3 Japanese Iwatas of varying spec, a reasonably cheap Eclipse for spraying primers, a High Line HP-CH for most general work and a Custom Micron for very fine work and I have never had any problems with their reliability at all. If I had to worry about a budget I would just go for the Highline as it'll do 99% of what you'll ever need from an Airbrush.

Duncan B

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The O rings are £5 each, but the importers suggest you should change the whole Nozzle assembly at £15.

I'm sure they would! :lol: Manufacturers are known for liking parting us from our money. :shrug:

That's not great that a seal should break down so quickly. I've had the same air nozzle seal on my H&S Infinity for years, and although it's a little cracked now, it still holds air. It's good practice to have spares for all the "consumable" parts in stock if you can. I always have at least a full set of seals, replacement needles and nozzles, as they always seem to go at the most inconvenient times. :owww:

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Anyway im giving the ptfe tape a go.

Depending on geometry, Bees' wax in the threads may work. That was what was recommended for my venerable Thayer and Chandler, anyway. (Admittedly for standard ink based graphic artist work; but wax is pretty resistant to solvents AFAIK. And it's quickly replaced in any case.)

Edited by Hotel Papa
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I'm sure they would! :lol: Manufacturers are known for liking parting us from our money. :shrug:

That's not great that a seal should break down so quickly. I've had the same air nozzle seal on my H&S Infinity for years, and although it's a little cracked now, it still holds air. It's good practice to have spares for all the "consumable" parts in stock if you can. I always have at least a full set of seals, replacement needles and nozzles, as they always seem to go at the most inconvenient times. :owww:

And you can always turn H&S Nozzle seals over if the face becomes damaged.

Paul

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TBH, I run 'em til they let go, and then jib 'em. They're usually a bit mushy by then anyway ;)

Whats a "Jib 'em" Boss?

Is that like a Gibbon but for airbrushes?

Gawd, I wish I was down with the kids like you!

Rick.

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If it's anything like the Iwata CR you use beeswax.

And has been said, the Neo ain't no real Iwata!

Expanding upon Rick's comments above.

Most of you know, but for those who don't. Recognising that people tend to keep buying what they initially buy, Iwata's Neo was designed to a price and marketed to attract the starter segment which was put off by Japanese made Iwata pricing.

The Neo was originally Made in Taiwan rather than the PRC mainland. Unless that's changed since? Taiwanese production & QC of anything is streets ahead of PRC IME, closer to Japanese standards even though PRC goods have leapt enormously in QC over the past half decade in the particular where high spec. is paid for and tight QC instituted. Materially internally, the Neo is manufactured to a price as has been written up and commented on before elsewhere.

That said, I think there are smarter value for dollar, euro or pound purchases at that price point for someone on a budget than the Neo. And I say that having a Japanese Iwata in my airbrush stable upon which I can only heap ultimate praise. They are a fine instrument, but they are also expensive. The Neo despite bearing the reputable Iwata name, reminds me of a Australian assembled Toyota vs a Japanese assembled Toyota car. I've owned both, new.The cliché "night and day" comes to mind.

Buy any reputable established brand of other than entry level, and one can't go far wrong. If you want prominent profile, e.g. Testor Aztec, Iwata, naturally expect to pay a premium. But if you can afford it and it's what you need, or want, why not?

My own personal budget or regular use choice is Thayer and Chandler owned by Badger and sold under the Omni brand, or a Badger whether the venerable versatile dual action suction feed 150 or a newer model like the the Patriot or Renegade series. I don't know why or how they can sell them so cheaply today. Don't let the price fool you. Despite their pricing being half of what it was only a decade ago, they are still Made in the USA. They are still tight spec machined units utilising quality metallurgy and components of sound new and proven design. They are what I use, and find the limiting factor is still not the tool, but my skills limited by the amount of practice I do and a predisposition or natural 'talent' inclined to the analytical and follow through practical application rather than the creative.

FTR I use beeswax on my seals as recommended by Badger. Especially with older seals, it ensures a good seat and sound seal, offering a modicum of barrier protection against harsh solvents.

Whichever airbrush you choose, standard spares to hand in one's kit regardless the brand should always be head seal/s, a needle or preferably two and a nozzle.

Edited by Bigglesof266
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The Neo's are built for, not buy Iwata.

The first two Neo brushes were made and assembled in China.

The O ring behind the nozzle has been a problem with them, they appear to be standard rubber and can degrade with solvents.

Not sure if this has now been addressed or not, but still sell the replacement o rings

The later trigger brushes were made in Taiwan, then taken to china for assembly.

They were a variation on the Sparmax GP-xx range, so a known quantity and are good quality.

Paul

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Brian,

Harder & Steenbeck Ultra Solo, or 2in1 are worth a look as a good quality budget brush. Easy to clean, strip etc.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/harder--steenbeck-ultra-2in1-airbrush---02mm-04mm-nozzle-sets-and-2ml-5ml-paint-cups-3703-p.asp

I'll have one on demo at the Huddersfield show on Sunday if you are going.

I'll also have the Sparmax trigger brush on demo.

Paul

Edited by little-cars
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Brian,

Harder & Steenbeck Ultra Solo, or 2in1 are worth a look as a good quality budget brush. Easy to clean, strip etc.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/harder--steenbeck-ultra-2in1-airbrush---02mm-04mm-nozzle-sets-and-2ml-5ml-paint-cups-3703-p.asp

I'll have one on demo at the Huddersfield show on Sunday if you are going.

I'll also have the Sparmax trigger brush on demo.

Paul

I can vouch for the H&S airbrush mentioned above. As a enamel paint user seals are a big problem for me on airbrushes, this H&S has durable ptfe seals on a floating nozzle that are very cheap and easy to replace.

My previous airbrush was a Neo, I was told that replacement nozzle seals are available outside of Iwata for a much cheaper price but was unable to find them.

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