BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 First group build on here and thought I'd tackle the Italeri 1:48 Hurricane Mk.1. The kit has had some bad press but it looks buildable and has some nice details so I thought I'd give it a whirl. Starting with the box contents; Some of the parts have a little flash and I found the LHS fuselage to be snapped at the front where the engine access panel mount is. This isn't such a big deal though and I'm sure I'll face a lot worse on my journey through this The RHS fuselage has some sink marks where the cockpit mounting pins are located on the inside of the part. This won't be too bad to correct as it's a fairly flat area and doesn't have any raised detail around it which could be sanded away..! The three sink marks can be seen here; two in front of the cockpit area, one at the rear. Mr. Surfacer to the rescue I think. More soon, just need to finish a big chopper first 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Hi, the surface details seem tasty enough, so the end result should be accordingly nice. I believe that any problem in 1/48 are easier to tackle than in the smaller scales. So it should be a fun build to watch! Have fun JR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 the run down of what's wrong is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234935596-sea-hurricane-148-italeri/#entry1390213 Depressing is not the word..... OK, you want to build the kit, and are not an anorak. replace the prop and spinner, and sand back the nose ring a bit, even just a new spinner will help, the kit ones are awful, they scream wrong. the Spitfire Rotol maybe salvageable, with work. Many Hurricane kits, eg both Airfix kits, and the new tool Airfix Spitfire Mk.I (the old tool Mk.I are as bad as the Italeri ) have ones that can be used. see http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234980181-hawker-hurricane-propellers-and-spinners-a-modellers-guide/ don't use the 3 spoke wheels, and cut the rim moulded onto the tyres off, it's wrong. I think some adjustment of the tailwheel maybe in order, it always seem to sit to high in builds, refer to photos. If you want to build it with the cowling panels on, the side panel needs the exhaust slot deepening, and adding plastic card tabs inside to mount the panels on will save a lot of filling. Do not assume these will fit, dry fit everything first and what I am saying will become clearer. Note the kit decal guide has the roundels too far outboard. see this http://www.boxartden.com/gallery/index.php/Profiles/Camoflage-Markings/03-Hawker-Hurricane has the factory camo diagram, with correct placement. Finally, the instructions show the escape panel as an access hatch, it's not. I was removed for servicing, but is not hinged. any questions or clarifications, just ask. HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Thanks for the advice Troy, will keep all this in mind for later. For now though, a bit of an update. Cockpit ready for paint, the pics say it all.... I'm not overly convinced about the placement of the instrument panel - it appears to be in the correct place but those two square lumps of plastic in front of the panel don't look like they should be there. Anyway, onto painting next.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I'm not overly convinced about the placement of the instrument panel - it appears to be in the correct place but those two square lumps of plastic in front of the panel don't look like they should be there. Anyway, onto painting next.... Have you test fitted it in the fuselage, kit not to hand, but I think the IP should go in front of said lumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Have you test fitted it in the fuselage, kit not to hand, but I think the IP should go in front of said lumps. Yes, and my conclusion was that it goes where I've put it - if it goes in front of the lumps it touches the stick and there'd be gap between the back of the panel and the windscreen, which doesn't make sense to me. I will of course do more test fitting before committing to glue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Moving onto other areas and as Troy mentioned, there is an extra rim moulded onto the outside edge of each tyre. This is quite easily removed though; The undercarriage bay has some strange gaps in where the insert mates (or doesn't) to the lower fuselage half. This should be easy enough to fill/sand, but it does beg the question of why is this so poor on what is a fairly expensive kit. I am enjoying this build though - honest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Yes, and my conclusion was that it goes where I've put it - if it goes in front of the lumps it touches the stick and there'd be gap between the back of the panel and the windscreen, which doesn't make sense to me. I will of course do more test fitting before committing to glue HI, sorry for stating the blinkin' obvious. Had a fiddle, with kit, and, what a surprise, it's the kit. As I said in my initial link, 'where's wally' kit, more you look, more you find Moving onto other areas and as Troy mentioned, there is an extra rim moulded onto the outside edge of each tyre. This is quite easily removed though; The undercarriage bay has some strange gaps in where the insert mates (or doesn't) to the lower fuselage half. This should be easy enough to fill/sand, but it does beg the question of why is this so poor on what is a fairly expensive kit. I am enjoying this build though - honest The wheels mod in an easy one. Digging out the kit, and having been comparing the 1/72 Heller, Academy, Airfix IIc's, I've been looking at noses, all the 1/72 have a narrow nose on top view. The teardrop bulges cover the extreme front end of the V-12 Merlin, and it's broad. Rarely seen in wartime shots, best seen in a warbird, eg Italeri have made a double stuff up, the nose ring is too big, but the top cowling is too narrow! Note how the nose ring 'pulls in' from the width of the cowling top... this is the kit shot from http://forum.ipmsireland.com/topic/8356356/1/ with a Hasegawa De Havilland Hurricane spinner in place... If noting else may give an idea of how to reshape the nose ring if you can be bothered. HTH? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 HI, sorry for stating the blinkin' obvious. Had a fiddle, with kit, and, what a surprise, it's the kit. As I said in my initial link, 'where's wally' kit, more you look, more you find Hmm, well after painting the cockpit and gluing it all together I found that it sort of goes where the kit instructions says it goes. It still looks a bit too far back but when comparing it to a recent Hasegawa it looks ok so that's where it'll stay. Apologies for the poor pics, but the iPhone doesn't lend itself to this sort of thing Moving onto the exhausts, I want to use Quickboost replacements but without having to install the engine. This meant having to block in the area behind the exhausts both to give them something to mount onto, and hide the fact that nothing is there..! After closing up the fuselage I came up with a compromise - carving out the engine block parts and gluing them behind the opening; I've ordered a replacement Quickboost prop so will wait to see how this compares to Troy's pic above and start to hone in the front end of the nose. It did strike me as being a bit too wide but didn't think too much of it until pointed out Thanks to Troy for all the help, appreciated 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Hi BMSA what I meant regarding the IP was that you had 'right' the first time, and that it was another Italeri stuff up. Regarding the engine and exhaust, you might want to use the front bit as well, juts so you have something to mount the prop on. Real Hurricanes don't have a front blanking plate, the only kit that has this feature IIC is the Hase 1/48th this also shows why those teardrop bulges are needed. I don't have the Quickboost bits, given their nature and the picture on Hannants, I presume it's a drop fit, just better shaped than the Italeri, the better shape alone will help, the oversize nose ring is not that obvious, it took me a while to spot it. You'll note on my additions to Mike's review that there later edits. A point to watch for later, from various build I have seen online, the kit seems to sit 'funnily' so I recommend some test fitting on the UC, the tailwheel seems to high as well. compare, note also the main wheel, and how much better the tyre compares with that rim trimmed off there are loads of Hurricane photos here if you want to try to find specific plane or squadron http://www.asisbiz.com/Hurricane.html This is the Science Museum Hurricane, hangin up some many details not usually seen are visible http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/mark_hayward/hurricane_mk1_l1592/index.php?Page=1 fabric winged, but the rest of the airframe is the same. if you have not seen this before, It's essential reading. long OOP, scans are up here http://www.boxartden.com/gallery/index.php/Profiles/Camoflage-Markings/03-Hawker-Hurricane Glad the help is appreciated, I am aware I'm parka* on the subject Cheers T *parka - a heavy duty anorak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 what I meant regarding the IP was that you had 'right' the first time, and that it was another Italeri stuff up. I think the correct position is actually where the two square 'knobs' are, just behind where I've positioned the IP, therefore they just need to be removed and the IP placed there instead. Given that the cockpit is now closed up and the wings are on, it's not going to be moved from where it Is..! Doh..! I've also slipped up on not using the front of the engine for the prop mount, but I have a cunning plan in place for that - more later..! As far as I'm aware, the front u/c appears to sit ok, but that tailwheel is something else. Not hard to correct though but thanks for pointing it out. As I said above, the fuselage is together and the wings are on. Fit is ok, although it still needs a fair amount of clean up. I wish I'd fitted the upper wings to the fuselage and then glued the lower wing in place. Not sure why I didn't as it's something I do normally do - again, DOH..! It's not too bad though, could've been worse. Many thanks again to Troy for the excellent links, very helpful. I'm after some clear camouflage patterns I can trace in my cutter software. I need a drawing that doesn't show panel lines etc, only the demarcation between the two camo colours - any suggestions..? I was hoping to cut out my own camo masks rather than using blue-tak, purely to save a little time and to get the scheme spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) Onto the tailwheel; This is just worng; too long, too thick and it sits at the wrong angle. I modified it by thinning the strut, inserting brass rod to give it strength and drilling a hole in the fuselage at the correct angle to help it sit correctly. I also modified the fairing behind the wheel as this was also at the wrong angle; The front engine covers are on and have fitted quite well; Wings are on and she's making rapid progress (for me) Edited February 16, 2016 by BigMouthStrikesAgain 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 You are really doing a fine job on this one so far,......I love the work you`ve done on the tail wheel! Keep up the great work, Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 A short update; The exhausts are now tacked in place to ensure they fit and sit correctly. Good job I did this now as I ended up pushing their mounts inside the nose and had to prize the cowling off to get them back on. If there'd have been paint on at that point it may have flown into the bin I finally managed to get myself a Quickboost replacement DeHaviland prop and spinner and can say with some relief that the kit nose is actually dimensionally ok (I would have said correct, but I'm no expert and all I can say is that the kit and the QB parts match ) So here is said spinner sat on said nose; Yeehaa - prep for painting next. Oh I can't wait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 A short update; I finally managed to get myself a Quickboost replacement DeHaviland prop and spinner and can say with some relief that the kit nose is actually dimensionally ok (I would have said correct, but I'm no expert and all I can say is that the kit and the QB parts match ) good work on the tailwheel. Quickboost as the name implies make 'drop fit' replacement parts, the nose ring is wrong, the spinner looks better than the kit one from the angles shown, but to 'fit' is has to be too big at the base. I really must hack one of mine up to see the logistics of the fix.. Note The Dh prop is only applicable for some early Mk.I's, Tropical Mk.I's and Sea Hurricane I's, but if you can work from a photo. Hurricane props an spinners really do seem to confuse, did you read the thread? http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234980181-hawker-hurricane-propellers-and-spinners-a-modellers-guide/ As an aside I have seen two builds on here of the new tool Airfix kit where the builders have not paid attention and fitted the DH blades to the Rotol spinner, as either prop will fit Any idea what scheme you are planning? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thanks again for the info Troy, clears up any confusion regarding spinners/props for the Hurricane. My pictures are a little misleading - the spinner is actually the same size as the nose, I've just put in place and it seems to have moved when I took the picture. I'm sure it'll all become clear when it's finished. The prop is the DH prop for the Hurricane and not the Spitfire, so the base should be the same size as the nose, which it turns out it is. I'll take some more pics tonight and post them tomorrow. By that time I should have some primer in place Not quite sure of scheme yet but I have some spares left over from an Aviaeology decal sheet (17 sq BoB rings a bell) Looking to use some home made cut masks using my new toy - Silhouette Portrait cutter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 If you want some info on 17 Sq Hurricanes.. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981866-hurricane-profile-vs-photospot-the-difference-quiz/ has detail on the famous popeye YB-J, which is on an Aviology sheet. Quickboost as the name implies make 'drop fit' replacement parts, the nose ring is wrong, the spinner looks better than the kit one from the angles shown, but to 'fit' is has to be too big at the base. My pictures are a little misleading - the spinner is actually the same size as the nose, I've just put in place and it seems to have moved when I took the picture. I'm sure it'll all become clear when it's finished. The prop is the DH prop for the Hurricane and not the Spitfire, so the base should be the same size as the nose, which it turns out it is. to clarify, to fit the oversize kit nose, the replacement spinner must be too big, if it was the correct size, it would look like the Italeri kit with hasegawa spinner photo above. Tis is what I meant about Quickboost often making compromises for ease of use. HTH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) Thanks again Troy, great reading and certainly helpful Small update, the fuselage is now in primer and the undercarriage bay has been given an Alclad Aluminium coating before being masked in preparation for the Sky. I love the painting bit - did I mention that..? Edited February 26, 2016 by BigMouthStrikesAgain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) Painting has begun. The SKY is Gunze Sangyo Mr Color lacquer based paint which goes beautifully. I'm using left over decals from an Aviaeology sheet and as such there are no roundels left, only specific 17 sqd markings. This has given me the perfect excuse to use my new cutter and play about with cutting masks. I scaled down the roundel size from the Aero detail books and this was simply a matter of drawing three circles in the cutter software. As for their placement, the same books detail that the centre of the roundel needs to be 80" from the wing tip (along the horizontal), and midway between the aileron and wing leading edge. From this I could place the roundel in a box at the correct position such that when the box was cut out (with roundel inside) and positioned at the edge of the aileron/wing tip, the roundel would be in the correct position. I didn't take pics due to the excitement of it all but will post something later to show what I mean. As for painting, I sprayed white over the whole roundel area, avoiding the edges so I didn't end up with a white rim (!), then masked the white/blue portion, sprayed the red, masked that and finally exposed the blue portion and painted that. I used the super Mr Paint paints, which are spot on colour wise and spray perfectly straight from the bottle. Onto the pics, they say it all.... A few minor touch ups to do but I'm quite happy with the result. I think I need to set the cutting head to cut a little deeper as the adhesive on the vinyl sheet has tore slightly, which is why there are specs of white at the edge of the blue. More soon..... Edited March 2, 2016 by BigMouthStrikesAgain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 very neat work.... only problem, YB-J when photographed had no underwing roundel, also the oversize fuselage roundel on YB-J is the result of order to add a yellow ring in May 1940, sometimes full width, like YB-J, sometimes just a thin ring, as this was easier than repainting the entire roundel to the specified size. in this case, a 35 inch A type had a 7 inch yellow ring added, making it a 49 inch A1 type. Note also the pole aerial and all N**** serial Hurricanes used 5 spoke wheels hubs, you can use ones from a Spitfire, and many kits have separate hubs, which makes it easy to do. Underwing roundels were only used over France in early 1940, and briefly in May 1940, but were overpainted when Sky undersides came in in June 1940, re introduced over the UK in August 1940. there was a factory standard, but at local level many variations were seen, as seen at top right of this, so if YB-J ever lasted long enough to get underwing roundels who knows.... regarding roundel placement and sizes, this is in the Ducimus booklet http://www.boxartden.com/gallery/index.php/Profiles/Camoflage-Markings/03-Hawker-Hurricane/Hawker-Hurricane-Camo-and-Marks_Page_19-960 though this maybe what is in the Aeroguide. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Onto the paint, and home made masks were used for the camo. Not entirely accurate for Type A camo scheme but very quick to use and will easily be transformed into Type B. I'll refine these on my next build. Paint used was Mr Hobby lacquer based RAF Dark Earth & Dark Green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 More roundel updates - managed to get the main roundels painted on using homemade masks. A bit fiddly and time consuming but that should speed up now I've got the hang of it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMouthStrikesAgain Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 Calling this one done - managed to get sorted over the last week and it all came together on Saturday. Quite pleased with the end result, even if it's not 100% accurate. As a test bed for trying out my own paint masks then I'm more than happy with the results. Might not go for the masked camo next time though, this leaves a ridge which needs sanding and is a little too sharp edged for the type. Anyway, onto a couple of pics - will try to get some better ones for the gallery soon; 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Very nicely built and painted, it looks fabulous,.....but didn`t this aircraft have a light (yellow?) coloured spinner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 The spinner shown on some profiles as yellow, but other 17 Sq planes, like YB-W, show a sky spinner, This looks to be an infield paint job, and perhaps the order to paint the undersides sky was taken to include the spinner as part of the underside. more shots here showing wavy leading edge to wing. https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Hurricane/RAF-17Sqn-YB.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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