Gekko_1 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Being very impressed with Marcus Nicholls' Finemolds Slave 1 in issue 114 of Tamiya Model Magazine International, I thought I'd try and achieve something similar with the Bandai kit. ......................after all, what could possibly go wrong The calm before the storm................. Parts off the sprue, cleaned-up and push assembled. Any normal person might be happy with that.......................... but I'm not normal Parts pulled apart again.............. Sprayed with Stynylrez white primer.......... The beginning of the painting and weathering of the underside of the base plate.................. More base colours airbrushed.......... Lots of experimenting with enamel based washes and chipping fluid............................... Then this happened! The combination of pressure from the clothes peg and enamel thinners based washes and BANG! It took me 2 days to find all the bits! But it all glued back together again with Tamiya Extra thin cement. Then I tried chipping the upper base plate with Vegemite................... But it didn't work out too well................... So I stripped it all back and tried again using chipping fluid.............. Then I added the centre sections of the base plate, masked off the demarcation line with Vegemite, then painters tape................ Then airbrushed the base colour............. I also experimented with acrylic based washes.................. The finished look is more subtle than using enamel based washes, BUT you have to do very small sections at a time and keep moving the wash around with water while it is setting. I use Vallejo 71.061 Airbrush thinner and Vallejo Model wash colours and a small amount of water. Still experimenting with this combo, but initial tests look promising for the Bandai kits as the plastic they're made of doesn't like enamel based thinners. (haven't finished this side yet, still have to do the upper right vent section) Left shoulder done using chipping fluid again............... That's all for now............................ Cheers Richard. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samuelmcguire Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Nice work looks good I'm hoping to start a WIP of this model that I got for Christmas.. the detail is insane! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blastvader Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Really nice work there Gekko. I've got one myself that I've not yet started. Also, Vegimite for chipping eh? Never heard of that one before. I wonder if the far superior Marmite mite (fnar, fnar) work better? Ref: Chipping. How do you find the chipping fluid in comparison to just decanting hair spray? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Really nice work there Gekko. I've got one myself that I've not yet started. Also, Vegimite for chipping eh? Never heard of that one before. I wonder if the far superior Marmite mite (fnar, fnar) work better? Ref: Chipping. How do you find the chipping fluid in comparison to just decanting hair spray? Thanks! Marmite and Vegemite are pretty much the same thing as far as I know, so should be no problem. Hairspray can vary in consistency and effectiveness. The chipping fluid is formulated specifically for what it does, also there is no perfume smell to it, plus its convenient to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PixelMagic Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 That engine skirt looks awesome now. Well done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake the snake Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 That is some great painting. This inspires me to repaint my Slave 1 skirt! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Moore Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Great work on the chipping Richard. It was a sod when I did it at 1/72, it must be even harder at 1/144 Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 The detail Bandai get with the way they overlap parts is amazing on these kits, Slave 1 & the Falcon Just finishing off a Bobba Fett and have used enamel washes over the bare plastic, sparingly and not flooding it to bring in some subtle shading, hope I don't get the same reaction with the plastic. Also used some of the Stynylrez primer for the first time on the Gun/jet pack/cloak and was impressed by it, thinned a little with ultimate thinners it covers well and a little go's a long way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Great work on the chipping Richard. It was a sod when I did it at 1/72, it must be even harder at 1/144 Andy Thanks Andy. What I've discovered is that you have to work the coat sprayed over the chipping fluid pretty much straight away. So basically spray Vallejo satin varnish over the base coat, let it dry for at least half a day, then spray the chipping fluid, air dry it with the airbrush then spray the next layer, air dry it with the airbrush, then in very small sections add water with a soft brush then begin manipulating the surface with a slightly tougher bristled brush. Its the control and manipulation in very small sections that is the key.Here are the brushes I use for the manipulation part. Cheers Richard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 The detail Bandai get with the way they overlap parts is amazing on these kits, Slave 1 & the Falcon Just finishing off a Bobba Fett and have used enamel washes over the bare plastic, sparingly and not flooding it to bring in some subtle shading, hope I don't get the same reaction with the plastic. Also used some of the Stynylrez primer for the first time on the Gun/jet pack/cloak and was impressed by it, thinned a little with ultimate thinners it covers well and a little go's a long way The main thing to worry about is not getting the enamel thinner anywhere near any of the push-in joins that Bandai use to push their parts together with in a "Lego" like fashion. Once the enamel thinner gets on those parts it effects the chemical compound of the plastic and begins to break it down. If you were, say, putting an enamel filter over a wide area like the upper and lower sections of the Bandai Falcon I can't see a problem, it just seems to be corners and joint areas that fracture under pressure. Both Andy and I have experienced this on our AT-ST builds here on Britmodeller. Cheers Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Here I've sprayed Vallejo satin varnish over the base coat to protect it from any possible staining whilst doing the chiping. Richard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Rose Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Great work, thats some very nice chipping 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 OK, so that's the engine skirt/base parts done. Cheers Richard. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Moore Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 The skirt's looking fantastic. Love the grungy weathering Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Right, back on with Slave 1. I've been experimenting with an acrylic wash system durable enough to get a similar "look" to enamel based weathering products but without the nasty side effects that plagues Bandai plastic being eaten away by enamel products. Basically, what I've been doing is mixing Vallejo Model Wash with Vallejo Retarder Medium, thinned with a little water. Apply this mixture into panel lines etc just like enamel based products and adjust and clean up with water. Its not a procedure for the impatient though as its not as fast as using enamel based products, but if done well can give you just as good, if not better a result because it gives a much finer blend of medium. Make sure you leave it to air dry, do not force dry it with a hair dryer as this will produce tide marks. Left to air dry this technique will not leave tide marks and I've been very pleased with the subtlety of some of the effects I've been able to achieve. Unfortunately my photography skills don't quite show up just how good and subtle the effect is. Suffice to say, I am happy with it and I am a very fussy person! The other side I finished in the traditional enamel method known to most. Next I did some chipping using Vegemite as the chipping medium. I am very happy with the end result. Next I prepared the rear and front fuselage parts for chipping using Vegemite. Cheers Richard. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockpopandchips Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) This is looking very nice. Edited May 27, 2016 by rockpopandchips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockeyboy76 Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Stunning work & some great photo references to help us numpties!!! Why vegemite? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Stunning work & some great photo references to help us numpties!!! Why vegemite? Vegemite can be thinned with water. So you can either apply it straight out of the jar, as is, using the sponge technique or stipple with a brush or any other tool to get the Vegemite mask onto the model. Or you could thin it even more with water and brush paint it onto larger areas. I did both on the Slave 1 rear section above. Then airbrush your model accordingly. Once dry simply remove the Vegemite with warm water and a soft brush. Just dip the soft brush into the warm water and gently brush over the painted model and the Vegemite will dissolve away very quickly and easily revealing the chipped paint layer. The more time and effort you put into the application of the Vegemite masking the better the end results will be. Richard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Bovril works too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockeyboy76 Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Richard, Thanks for the info. More of a Bovril man myself, only downside is I may end up spending more time licking the model than painting. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 Interesting, I'll have to get hold of some Bovril and test it out! Richard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Hi Richard, I would like to add my thanks for your explanations regarding technique and materials and excellent photography; it makes for great reference and a very enjoyable build thread. The fruits of your labours isn't half bad either! I'm looking forward to more. cheers, Andrew. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Vegemite removed! Next I'll be masking out the darker green panels with Vegemite and Blu-Tack. Richard. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 OK, so here I'm removing the Blu-Tack, underneath you may be able to notice the Vegemite still in place. Here all the Blu-Tack has been removed. By using warm water and a soft brush I have started removing the Vegemite. Some still remains on the spine. I used the kit supplied sticker as a mask for the pale grey stripe here. It worked perfectly. Here it is with the sticker removed. The other side with Vegemite removed. I used the kit supplied sticker again, the outside of it, to mask the white stripe. Here I'm pulling the mask back. It worked perfectly. Richard. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Very nice work Richard, keep it up - as ever, I'm grateful for your photos and captions. Clever use of the kit's stickers as a mask (both positive and negative) too! cheers, Andrew. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now