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A desert Sherman in the making


AgentG

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Ok work has been a real bi...er bear, but I have gotten some build time in. Typical DML fare just have to plan ahead because of the fender skirts.


Here are some quickie photos.


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I used Vallejo Model Color 916 Sand Yellow for the base coat. I added a drop of Dark Sand and a dab of white as well. It airbrushed just fine thinned with MM Acrylic Thinner and a drop of Vallejo retarder. The green is Lifecolor Olive Green and the border is Vallejo Off White.


Next time I will AB Vallejo using a larger .5mm tip. It sprays well but needs to be slightly thicker than Tamiya or MM Acryl.


G

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Markings are on and the weathering has begun. I'm trying to replicate the wear patterns of the crew in and around the tank.
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Oil paint fading to come.
G

I have never used oil paints for models before.... I've returned to modelling after a long absence... So I'll be interested to see what you use, how you use it. Please go well over the top with description of materials, methods etc!

Badder.

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Right, it took three days to get Photoyukket to cooperate and upload photos. :banghead:

Here's my oil tutorial of sorts, bear in mind, Mike Rinaldi I am not.

Colors.

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This is about as benign a thinner available. I have never had issues with this lifting enamel much less acrylic.

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Weapons of choice.

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I look wash the surface allowing the medium shades to build up in the cracks and crevices like accumulated dirt and dust.

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It's difficult to tell in these photos, but eack panel has an area "tinted" with a ochre or orange oil shade. I believe filter is the correct term but I do not apply this overall choosing to tint corners and specific areas that I prefer.

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The final drive assembly shows this better.

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I scrubb a bit of Umber into the surface replicating crew activity. Dirty hands and heavy boots wear at paint differently, so I take that into account.

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I'm starting with a dark pinwash now. I'll also fade the green a bit. Remember all this gets dusty pigments overall. My original choice of color was bright and very yellow, you can see how it has toned down with this first round of weathering.

G

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Very nicely done.....I like the way you are building the patina up gradually, definitely the way forward. :coolio:

I believe the sand paintwork was added over olive drab, so you can chip that to show the basecoat, but the OD itself seems to have been pretty much bulletproof.

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They dry faster when white-sprit enters the equation, but I give mine at least 24 hours, often more.....Water based oils are available (Yeah I know it sounds mad! :mental: ) but they are a very poor substitute for the real thing. TBH the long working time is one of the major advantages of using oils, you can tease and tweak your weathering until it pleases you, without time constraint. :coolio:

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Using the cardboard palette helps leach the linseed oil away from the pigments. That helps speed up the drying time considerably. I use so little paint that it really does dry in about 24 hours. If Photobucket cooperates tomorrow, I will post more technique how to's. I'm at work now.

G

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Using the cardboard palette helps leach the linseed oil away from the pigments. That helps speed up the drying time considerably. I use so little paint that it really does dry in about 24 hours. If Photobucket cooperates tomorrow, I will post more technique how to's. I'm at work now.

G

Cool. Thanks. So placing blobs of oil paint on a plasticard palette isn't the way to go.

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Cool. Thanks. So placing blobs of oil paint on a plasticard palette isn't the way to go.

That is one way for sure, yet in my opinion, not the optimum for what we are trying to accomplish. We use such small amounts of oil paint anyway, you need control of the medium. Leaching the oil out is quite helpful in attaining that.

Mike Rinaldi's "Tank Art books" are quite informative. His illustrated work is what helped me try new techniques. He advocates doing this in what he terms "oil paint rendering".

G

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very nice work... anyone know if Quad tractors in the desert had the roundel markings (and if so, anyone have a spare one to fit a 1/35 Quad?)... and the olive green - am i right some had that in black and some in dark brown?

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The roof roundels used in the desert appeared and disappeared according to who ruled the air at the time, IIRC in at least some instances they were painted on removeable panels.

With regard to the Quad colours I'm guessing you are enquiring about the colour of the disruptive pattern.....Black or green are certainly oprtions, brown I'm not sure about.

Here's Mike Starmer's guide from the MAFVA site: http://www.mafva.net/other%20pages/starmer%20camo.htm

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Based on what I have read, brown and even a red brown are options on support vehicles.

Age of the truck is a factor also. Light Stone was the base color for roughly the middle to the late periods of the desert campaign. Older vehicles could be in Portland Stone and even display a Caunter scheme with both Light Stone and Portland Stone.

Remember, light blue had no place in any camouflage paint scheme outside the LRDG or SAS. Those folks had the leeway to paint their trucks and Jeeps as needed.

Here's an example of that.

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G

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