colin Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yes, more of how it's done please VT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Well, this is what I call open moulding, which is as simple as it gets...in theory! First the Lego wall is sealed to a plastic card base with double sided tape. Flat bottomed parts are double sided taped onto the base. RTV silicone mixed 20/1 by weight. I bought some jewellers scales from eBay for small quantities. 5 quid and measure to 1/100 of a gram!!! RTV poured into the mould and left for 24 hours to cure. Recommended to pour slowly into side of mould to reduce bubbles. Generally, I don't though. I half fill then rock the mould about until full coverage, then finish filling. I also whack the mould and/or stick it on my compressor to vibrate the bubbles out! After 24 hours pull away from parts. You should have a totally cured mould, but in this case I didn't. I normally leave a half mm strip of double sided around the part but this time the adhesive stopped the rubber curing. Thought I try some resin in there anyway. My resin is a 50/50 mix product. My secret to get an even, quick mix is to use 35mm film cannisters. Even quantity in each, eyeball it and shake in another (with the top on). Magneto came good. Rockers are OK but have the blobs on the edges. The bolt heads are the perfect size to trap air bubbles...I've got 2 on these ones. Tomorrow I'll pour again and be ready with my cocktail sticks for some bubble prodding action. I was going to redo this mould, but the blobby edges can be sanded so no worries. Happy with the tyre sidewall, especially as this is a second generation mould from the original. Gave me the opportunity to remove the Protar dip that seems to be in all the originals. Other half will be a 2 part moulding nightmare. Already thinking of a injection method to erradicate the bubble problem. Done it before with syringes but they are ruined after one use. Thinking along the lines of the pressurized Gunze brake bleeder idea! Edited February 24, 2016 by vontrips 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Well done and well explained thank you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Re the compressor vibration for getting rid of air, wonder if you have a ultrasonic cleaner if a platform could be made to sit in the bowl (no liquid in there) with the mold on top if that would give a bit more umph to get rid if the air 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Sorry to hear of this problem. Happened to me before too. When i did my Mefistofele, i screwed up my decals BIG TIME. I emailed Italeri to check if i could buy a spare decal from them, and they said any sprues / decals from new kits are available for sale. So i'm sure you can get that particular sprue from them if required. Regards, Jeremy You got a reply.....From Italeri! What did you use.....A ouija board? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Re the compressor vibration for getting rid of air, wonder if you have a ultrasonic cleaner if a platform could be made to sit in the bowl (no liquid in there) with the mold on top if that would give a bit more umph to get rid if the air It may work Colin, but I've never used one, so can't give a qualified answer. The rubber sets so slow that I rarely get bubbles; contrastingly, the resins start to solidify in a couple of minutes. The reaction with the hardner causes the gas bubbles and then they can't escape as the resin gels up. I wish the manufacturers would create slower cure resins. If we can wait 24 hours for a silicone mould a few more minutes for the resin wouldn't kill us. The only way to get pro-finished resin casting is to use a vacuum pump and a vacuum chamber. Unfortunately, good quality, fast pumps cost an arm and a leg!!! Been looking for a used one at a sensible price for just about ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 (edited) Oops...wrong thread! Edited February 25, 2016 by vontrips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Prompted by seeing some of Vontrip's machined components, can anyone recommend a brass metalliser paint? I've tried Mr Hobby Brass, which is only ok, and I've bought a product called Liquid Flake (my first test today appears to give an out of scale finish). While I think about it has anyone worked out an inventory of after-market nuts and bolts hardware? I think I am starting to recover some confidence after seeing some of the work done so far. I have brought forward my next appointment at Vision Express! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Hi Banny .................... I too have had little success with the Mr Hobby brass, or the Alclad for that matter - it just comes out a rather unconvincing dull gold, and not a very attractive one at that. Now strangely what does look good (albeit on small stuff so far) is the Vallejo brass paint. It comes out of the bottle all clunky and glitter looking but seems to dry out MUCH better. Truth be told I've often gone the serious route with Alclad and the like but invariably ended up dobbing a spot of the Vallejo over it - go figure?? Apologies for this ........... but it's the most readily available image to illustrate the point - "the drain tap and outflow". Regards aftermarket ... again as in this pic' I just tend to scratch up what I need, but must admit I saved up for a long time and have a set of Hex' punches now. I recently used this guy .... http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk .... for some rivets and stuff, not cheap but non of this macro hardware stuff is - good guy to deal with though - recommend him easily. And don't worry about confidence - just jump in a give it a go ..... we'll catch you! s'wat we're here for! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Prompted by seeing some of Vontrip's machined components, can anyone recommend a brass metalliser paint? I've tried Mr Hobby Brass, which is only ok, and I've bought a product called Liquid Flake (my first test today appears to give an out of scale finish). While I think about it has anyone worked out an inventory of after-market nuts and bolts hardware? I think I am starting to recover some confidence after seeing some of the work done so far. I have brought forward my next appointment at Vision Express! Some modellers have been getting very excited by AK Interactive's Extreme Metal range. Enamel based, like Alclad, but slightly more user friendly. I pigged out on a handful at a recent show, but have not tested them yet. Some of the metallic waxes are supposed to be very good too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) hello everybody Little Andy, beautiful finish. Kudos. What scale is this engine ? the thin layering is truly excellent, showing mastery of thinning mix, brushing, dry brushing, pigment use and daring use of contrasting colors etc. Modesty aside, i totally i second what you say, i found that mixing brands such as Alclad with a mist coat or brush stroke of Vallejo or AK in thin layers, in some chosen places brings out a realistic look on metals. Unfortunately, without wanting to be judgmental on anybody, i am always disappointed to see excellent modelers, spending incredible time and attention on beautiful builds, end up painting it with one monotonous color making the end result looking boring, like a lifless toy rather than a scaled down replication of the real "used thing". Banny, yes Von Trips is right. My own experience with metallic waxes and extreme metal for airbrush, both from AK Interactive, is very satsifying and easy to use. It is more realistic and easier to use than Alclad who lost its leading position in my humble opinion. Just jump in and experiment. i am no expert here - specially on this impressive forum and gang show, but my experience so far is that you need to use many contrasting thin layers of different colours to come up with a realistic look. this is what i try to replicate here below in this yet unfinished paint of the wooden floor of my Italery Mefisto build... the famous older cousin of the equally fascinating Fiat 806 ; ( apologies gentlemen i don t mean to use this 806 platform to discuss another build, it just for Banny's benefit ! here below there are about 5 different brands of paint, about 4 or 5 different toned down colors, pigments, washes on the balsa wood, plastic and metal for the screws. The scale here is 1/12 ) the wood veins, knots and natural stripes of wood are not yet drawn here. It will be done soon with a Caran d'Ache dark brown or purple pencil Edited February 25, 2016 by sharknose156 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) Well, I have just nearly wet myself in excitement! The resin gods must be with me tonight. Yet another tyre casting photo but this is the business. My first pop at the tweaked outer tyre...no air bubbles at all! This is monumental for me as it's a two part mould casting! You will not believe how much thought has gone into designing this! Look the wheel rim fits inside and everything. Bet you the following pulls will be rubbish! ;-) Edited February 25, 2016 by vontrips 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Wow! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Sharknose (sorry don't know your name) .................. Great job on the woodwork - pretty convincing as it stands, I might be a little circumspect with the grain and knotting - less might be more in this instance, what a fantastic effect. John ................. way to go (as they say) on the tyre casting. And I think it looks really dinky with the cream tyres too - very period elect. Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Not tried it myself, but was told that Alclad brass over a high shine silver with gloss black will give the brass a nice finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Well, I have just nearly wet myself in excitement! The resin gods must be with me tonight. Yet another tyre casting photo but this is the business. My first pop at the tweaked outer tyre...no air bubbles at all! This is monumental for me as it's a two part mould casting! You will not believe how much thought has gone into designing this! Look the wheel rim fits inside and everything. Bet you the following pulls will be rubbish! ;-) I am very jealous seeing this...magnificent job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) Von Trips; incredibly clean and precise work. The marks are very clear. Excellent work. Look forward to more and to learn. Thank you ! Little Andi, My friends call me Sam. Edited February 26, 2016 by sharknose156 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Andi - thanks for the advice - I'll give the Vallejo a whirl. I've had a look at prime miniatures web site - looks good. I'll contact him. He's selling some tempting kits as well. Going back to the casting bubble issue - I know this sounds off the wall, but could an electric toothbrush (minus bristles of course) generate enough vibes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Going back to the casting bubble issue - I know this sounds off the wall, but could an electric toothbrush (minus bristles of course) generate enough vibes? Banny, that's not a bad idea at all. If you could make a small stand to go on the brush and ran it upright it could do the trick. Ironically, not having issues with the tyres so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 'Morning Sharknose Awesome wood effect - I think Andi makes a valid cautionary point. As an ex-watercolour painter I know that too much detail can be counter-productive. I am conscious with my modeling that sometimes getting EVERY detail exactly correct, sometimes just doesn't 'look right' Having said that, I must admit that I tend to be a 'rivet counter' 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Hi all, nothing constructive to add at the minute as I've become bogged down with body and chassis issues around the tail of the car, also getting a bit sidetracked assembling the basic engine to see just what I've got and what I need to think about moving forwards with it. But, had noticed it was a bit quiet in here recently so glad to see a little traffic today ... even though I know we're all beavering away at our respective benches. Banny ................ what makes you a "EX - watercolourist"?? I assumed it was a life sentence as far as creative imagery was concerned? And also pleased that you've getting the right vibes from Dominic Primes site. No association it's just nice when something turns out to be so positive, Steve's dealt with him now too so hopefully we're putting a little bit of business his way which hopefully means he'll stick around and become a solid resource? Perhaps a small update soon? ................................... Laters .................... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Hi guys, Some update. I have removed the bulge which is the hood hinge attachment point on the main body (part 4G) and also filled in the hole on part 7G. This makes my hoods non movable, but it gives the car a more streamlined look as per the original pictures. I screwed up on painting of the numbers, so waiting for new paints to arrive before i can repaint the body. But other than that, most parts are already done. Any C&C is much appreciated. Regards, Jeremy 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Bloody Marvellous ................ Now that really does look rather spiffing. Great clean build style and most excellent pic's ... all the better to see them. I'll probably post again once I've I've had time to digest them but in the meantime - Well Done sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Oh, and Sam, ........ (sharknose) ............. just re-read through the page and realised I hadn't responded to your question re' scale ....................... It's 1/8th (engine). The Heller Citroen Traction Avant. ..................... apologies for my rudeness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Lovely job Jeremy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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