Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Hello guys, hello John, having a new look on the picture above, I found my hub seemed too large. I decided to measure precisely, taking in consideration both diameter of the hub and the spoke one. Here are the results: 64E is 12,8 mm, my scratch hub is 12,2 mm, but the right diameter is 10,63 mm! My hub is 15% too large! I will probably redo it Here is what happens to you when you don't take the time to check everything before acting.... It is useless to know it, we are still trapped. So, John (and other ones), if you redo your hub, take care of that! very friendly Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) P.S: have done the same measure for 122D: it is too big, the good diameter of the knob is 3,8mm instead of 5mm approx. (122D is not round...). Word to the wise... Edited October 26, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph correction 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Olivier, Just measured my hub...10.9mm! Can't remember, but I think I just eyeballed it from the picture, rather than measure precisely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Hello everyone, this is a test for sending pictures.21 years ago Keith Bristow was fighting with the Protar kit.I hope ,you like it. The next 3 photos are for Sam ,who is constructing the Mef´s engie.I know,it´s not our topic,so please forgive me about that.I hope,my pc will soon be fixed,so we can communicate again. Many greetings Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Hello to all, to John: you were more accurate than me on this dimension, 10,9 mm is nearly perfect. I 'll take advantage of redoing the hub to improve it a little... to Hannes: thank you very much for your great photos! I am myself writing an article for french TMMI about the 806 (I hope my 806 will be better than K. Bristow's one) that should be published in next june if I succeed to go on with not too many problems with the kit... I love your copper finish on the Mef engine (gloss and quite orange), how did you get it, please? Best regards to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Dear Hannes, Thank you very much for this effort and time taken. Both for the Tamiya article on the 806 and the pics of your beautiful engine. Great value to me and am sure to the others. there are some pics of my engine here below, but i am redoing it entirely..... i will soon post pictures of my new engine on the Thread http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998736-eldridge-fiat-mefisto-112-italeri-brief-wip/ Olivier and John, great to follow your actions. John we want pics please !! kind regards to all Sam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Hello everyone,my pc is fixed again and I would like to reply to Olivier,Sam and John.Because I´m a slow writer ,it may take some time...Dear Olivier,this is a copper spray by Benton,which you can buy in construction markets.I first bought a Tamya spray,but the Color was awful.I don´t even own an airbrush System and I´m using mostly color-sprays from car suppliers.I think,what matters is to trust your own eyes.I see you as an Artist and beeing a sculptor by myself I´m sure you know,that the construction of These old cars also means a journey back to a dangerous and fascinating time.You can experience a part of history by your Hands and eyes.Many greetings to belle France!Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Dear Sam ,Thank you very much for your Kind words .As you can see,Joschi Looks greatful too.! I looked to your construction work and I´m sure,you are on the right way..I guess we both were following Kurtl´s Report to a certain degree.He´s an excellent modeller,but this time he was bulding the kit way too fast.These Kind of kits Need time,contemplation Research and planning.Of Course I am willing to share any Information and experiences regarding the Mef´s construction.You might be interestet in ,how I constructed the valve springs.I will explain it later,it´s a promise! Liebe Grüsse in die Schweiz! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Dear John,yourPhoto overlay is very fascinating.I completely agree with you,that the lowering of the bodywork Needs to be done to achieve a more realistic result.The Elongation of the Bonnets is the perfect opportunity to do so..My Suggestion for solving the height Problem is as follows:The cooler case´s height is the reference line for all following bodywork constructions.The elongated bonnetts(or a ruler)will meet the cabin at a Special Point,when exactly paralell with the engine.That Shows us,how much the bodywork must be lowered.About changing the U -shape to a slighttly V-shape I think it´s possible to alter it to a certain degree.The bonnetts must get included in this and other Adaption works and it´s important,to fix them firmly for a while.I already changed the cooler case and I will send some photos,When finished.I made a section below the Fixing points and altered the height ( about 2mm) I also added two Aluminium plates on Both sides (each one 0.5mm thick) to widen the whole case without causing too much Adaption Problems.Everybody,Who´s not willing to make a scratchbuild regardig the grill,can use the kit´s grill,but has to shorten it and Change it´s outline by adding some tiny styrene stripes to the Frame.Many greetings to the Island and it´s beautiful capital! Hannes 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) Dear Hannes, dear all, first thank you very much Hannes for your compliments (I am not sure to deserve Artist's qualifier but very kind). If I understood well, you're a professional sculptor? if yes, it explains that you are not afraid of lowering the body. I don't feel able up to now to do such a job, but I will follow with a lot of interest your actions to you, John and maybe some more. And if you convince me it is not too difficult, I should change my mind, but I won't be a leader on that subject... About the copper paint, I must say I didn't find it on the net. If you can give me the way to find it, I will be very grateful. About painting, in the article in TMMI, the author considers logic to use the Fiat racing red 140 (Halfords acrylic). I'd like to know your point of view about that. I have been looking for that on the net, and this paint seems to concern more recent Fiat. Personally, I am not sure this paint was ever created in 1927... I think if there is a parameter that will always escape us, it's really that one. I have begun to redo my hub, photos in the next post... All the best Olivier Edited October 27, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) If some one has coherent drawings of the wheels and hubs of this kit , please pm me with them if possible. All this chatter about the wheels makes me think there may be some merit in moving towards production of a wheel set from cast metal. Some relevant questions: -Are the hubs and rims identical for all 4 wheels? -How many spokes will be needed for each wheel? -Has the spoking pattern/procedure been worked out by anyone? -Were all manifestations of the car similar? -Are kit tires useable? -Anyone know the diameter of the spokes? A wheel set with hub , spokes , nipples and rim , all in metal , with clear instructions for the lacing and a supplied jig or instructions on making a jig will help solve a lot of the worries in this thread and others regarding the wheels of the kit. My opinion would be that good old fashioned modelling is the answer here. I know nothing of this car , only what I have read here. I will be moving towards production of cast metal wheels and hubs for deserving subjects , if this is one of them then so be it. Edited October 27, 2016 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Dear Olivier,yes I was studying sculpture for some time,but I earned my Money in the Restauration bussiness.Of Course I made Portrait -heads and figures,,but These were not the foundation of my income.Beeing a Stone-sculptor too I did restaurate figures, churches, Monuments and so on.Now I´m retired and have enough time to do such beautiful Things like Building These old cars or working on a life-sized naked plaster- woman...Regarding the belton spray Im sorry I can´t say much.It was made in Germany and as a manufacturer Peter Kwasny Group is declared.I have to confess,That I´m not an expert regarding spray Colors.For my Mefistofele for instance I was going to a car supplier and asked for a Ferrari red.They showed me two versions and I choose the darker one.Have a good time! Hannes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 10 minutes ago, krow113 said: I know nothing of this car , only what I have read here. I will be moving towards production of cast metal wheels and hubs for deserving subjects , if this is one of them then so be it. definitely interested for both the 806 and the mephistofeles. others here are way more qualified than me to provide the details. Howver if i can do anything i will be very glad to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Dear Hannes Thank you for your kind reply. yes Kurt did a good job but he was in a hurry and could have done more. i think he is more fascinated in architecture - and produced amazing work - and was sidetracked. In any case both his 806 and mef. cars are beautiful and i definitely learned a few things there. kind regards to all from a sunny autumn in Switzerland. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 6 minutes ago, sharknose156 said: definitely interested for both the 806 and the mephistofeles. others here are way more qualified than me to provide the details. Howver if i can do anything i will be very glad to. Kit manufacturer & kit numbers would be the first step.... Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Dear Sam i must apologize,saying you are on a good way.I saw your first side and thought,this was all.Now I had to realize ,that this was a complete Building Report with a lot of Research and very interesting Topics.So please forgive me!I have now the time to explain how I constructed the valve springs.It´s a hanging construction and an own Invention.First of all ,remove all the naps,where those ugly kit springs are supposed to stand on( I drilled them away)Now look at the bottom of the upper valve face.See that tiny ledge?One of These telescope brass tubes fits exactly..Cut this tube to pieces with an exactly defined lenght,paint them black and glue them in place.For all These Kind of works I always use a 2K glue like uhu+endfest 300,so you can correct a Long time.The springs are are made out of a 2mm Tension spring(also available in this Kshop) Stretch this string carefully by force and cut off pieces(ca 1cm)that look suited.Now you can slip These springs over the tube and cut them at the same lenght.To hold this construction together you might use a shortened tiny nail with a flat hat and glue it into the tube.It´s very important to find the right lenght,so it does not have contact with the Surface below but it should not look like hanging in the air.Sorry again for my misunderstanding.I must have appeared to you as an arrogant wise guy.Viele Grüsse von uns allen! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Hello to all, Here it is! my steering wheel is over. I made pics that should help you to earn time if you decide to make it by scratch as I did (only solution to get an accurate reproduction) but I have problems with photobucket that does not wnat to upload the last photo (steering wheel over). Grrr... Definitely, I have problems with photobucket (infuriating advertisment, bugs, sometimes very slow and I don't like the Mac Keeper message inviting to clean my Mac etc.). I was wandering if I could not use We transfer, fe, but I don't see the URL. Does someone has a suggestion? I found the answer about the red racing Fiat colour the author of TMMI article used: the 140 code corresponds to 1972 and earlier versions... This confirms what I said. I am still in the idea of using the Crimson red 20 Humbrol, which is maybe not the most probable colour, but very close from the box-art colour, that I love. Best regards Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Ok, been using another host, ImageShack, gonna try this one, fed u^p with photobucket! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Looking great Olivier; a far more accurate representation than the kit offering. I see I'm not the only one suffering with Photobucket! I assume they are making it as annoying as possible so users switch to the paying service? Ptcruiser (Rich) used a Humbrol red for his 806, not sure if he remembers the code though. Looks spot on to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 John is quite correct - Humbrol 220 - Italian Gloss Red (ironically) over a grey (metal) primer. The grey is sufficient to take some of the brightness out of the finish which is what I was trying to achieve. Being a gloss enamel it will also achieve the level of sheen required as opposed to the "wet look" that modern single or twin pack laquers achieve. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Dear Hannes, @Hannes thank you very much for this nice explanation (i never imagined one second you were arrogant). Kind regards to all for a lovely week end including Joschi. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Hello to all, sorry but I must mention a french classic author, Boileau, who said: "100 fois sur le métier remettez votre ouvrage...", what can be translated: "100 times on the job put back your work...". This mention is very well adapted to my steering wheel job! I was not entirely glad with it (ignition lever too large, did not like the brass screws, and the state of surface of my hub, not very clean). So, I spent still 2 hours for corrections and now, it's ok (I think... ). The steering wheel was, like the radiator grille or the wheels and tyres, very important for me. What justified to make no compromise on these elements. All the best 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Hi guys, My steering wheel over, and waiting for the 1,1 mm brass tubes to make the connectors following Andi's method described above (thank you Andi), I have improved my engine by weathering it a little, but mostly by improving the cooling pipes, as shown... Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Dear Olivier this is Hannes You have done a fantastic work regardind the middle disk.The Screen is situated behind the spokes .Will you Change it?If you are interested, I can give you a reference, where you buy a tiny U- shaped brass Profile to make the surroundings of the Screen.It Looks great,believe me! many greetings ! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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