Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Yes, Rich, surely, but I think we can make it anyway without these wrong notches... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) 22 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said: What do you mean? what missing gauge? don't see... sorry, didn't understand that... Behind the wooden knob on the wheel, the right-hand instrument is missing from the dashboard...there is a big hole instead. It's always made me think how early in development was the photo taken? I'm going to try to make the ring (about 1mm wide) on the lathe - very tricky! Edited October 21, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Here comes the lathe finally ! finally !! Hope this warms you up to finally go back to your 806 which will be one of a kind as well... with many artisanal and turned pieces. Go for it John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 I'm playing Devil's advocate here, but also bare in mind the background of the photo was probably airbrushed out with white gouache to highlight the silhouette of the car. They probably didn't airbrush behind the clear part and the original background could have been darker! ;-) Hi guys, Hi VT, I am still wondering if the protection screen on the steering wheel was clear. The enlargement picture above seems to confirm (unless it was retouched too, like the other one) that this screen was more probably slightly cloudy. It is possible to get a slightly cloudy effect by sanding the clear part (or a clear Evergreen card) from 2000 grind to 12000 (Micromesh). What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) P.S: wide enlargement of the central part in the middle of the steering wheel. Indication for VT, whose scratch part is nearly perfect, but your holes are a little too big. I think 1,0 mm drill would be perfect and would allow to get 3 holes between each spoke). That said, I would be very glad to be able to make the same than you! Edited October 22, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) Hello to all, It was a shock for me, the highlighting with this close-up of the steering wheel yesterday. I had no choice, my hub was false, and the 54th frame too. I thus undertook to begin again everything. That will learn me to look better! So... 1st step: Edited October 22, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph text missing on the photo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) I have applied a black gloss coat on the parts. While they are drying, been working on the "clear" screen. The most difficult was to make the frame of this screen, that will replace the wrong 54E. If your dentist is kind, ask him to keep for you its composite resin when they are outdated. You will need however a light curing lamp. You can find some at low cost made in China on the net. These resins are very useful to me in such cases. I finished with sanding with care to regularize the resin with a diamond file. The screen has been made slightly cloudy following my method described above. Edited October 22, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph text missing 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 4 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Hello to all, It was a shock for me, the highlighting with this close-up of the steering wheel yesterday. I had no choice, my hub was false, and the 54th frame too. I thus undertook to begin again everything. That will learn me to look better! So... 1st step: Olivier, you have spotted a mistake on my piece - which I hadn't!!! I made 12 holes when there should be 16...Don't know how I missed that. Looking at the photo I can see the holes over the steering wheel spokes which you avoided ; you need 16 in total! John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Hi John, Hi all, your piece is a little gem of achievement, but sorry, yes, the wide enlargement shows your holes should be a little smaller and there should be 16... 16? in fact, if you look well at the enlargement, the 4 holes on top of the steering wheel spokes seem to be fillled. I suppose it is a sort of weld for fixing the hub with the spokes. I'm gonna do these 4 "welds" with a heated bottom of instrument (photo on the next post). Now, if you compare your hub with 99,9 % of the ones we can see on the net up to now (using the ugly and wrong 64E as it is), you can consider this story of holes is really a point of detail. But if you are as mad as me (or CrazyCrank, f.e), you 'll go back to your lathe... Very friendly Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 On 21/10/2016 at 6:26 PM, vontrips said: Behind the wooden knob on the wheel, John, are you sure the knob is made of wood? Rich showed us an exaple of knob that seems to be more surely made of steel, no? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 13 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: You will need however a light curing lamp. You can find some at low cost made in China on the net. I found this for example: materieldentaire.fr (but you have many others of the same kind) where you'll find lamps from 50€ to 200 and more. You must protect your eyes when using it, either wearing glasses, either with the orange clear screen usually provided with the lamp. It will be a good purchase, because it will allow you to use many sorts of composite resins, of different viscosities. The flow is particularly useful... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) The knob could be made from metal. In the photo it looks dark - I would suggest more likely to be Bakelite; a plastic which was commonly used at this time! Quote Edited October 23, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 15 minutes ago, vontrips said: The knob could be made from metal. In the photo it looks dark - I would suggest more likely to be Bakelite; a plastic which was commonly used at this time! Hi my friends, should catch a glimpse on our friend Google with different keywords, such "Suicide knob" or "Brodie knob" or "steering wheel knob vintage cars", you'll find numerous pictures, and will see that there's a wide variety for materials used to manufacture these knobs. This link on Wiki is interesting too: Brodie knob So: why not wood or metal or even bakelite (If you have in your attic, an old bakelite phone, for example ) ...Anyway, you will paint it black or dark color, isn't it ? Something strange: the Wiki article say that this accessory has been invented in 1936, so later after 806 Corsa was born ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Good info CC! Bakelite was generally dark chestnut brown, but sometimes available in white! I have a 30s white Bakelite radio awaiting restoration! Has anyone wondered what it was for yet? I can only assume it helped when adjusting the ignition lever? Thumb on lever and fingers wrapped around knob. Quote Edited October 23, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 18 minutes ago, vontrips said: Has anyone wondered what it was for yet? I can only assume it helped when adjusting the ignition lever? Thumb on lever and fingers wrapped around knob. Hi John. Go back to the pic I posted from the Locomobile levers, the knob is on the GAS lever. Maybe as you say it's associated with the ignition (?) lever? Rich 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Dear gentlemen,my name isHannes and I am a new member from Germany.It´´s a pleasure for me to attend this international discussion.I would like to contribute some fundamental thoughts regarding the construction of the Fiat 806.What do we know? 1.) It seems,that only 3 photos of the prototype´s right side did survive.The blueprints show completely different proportions compared with the prototype.This means:The prototype shows a shorter driver´s cabin (including the rear) and a much longer "nose" compared with the blueprints.In my opinion These exciting characteristics are essential for representing the real car! Using a ruler you can measure out,that the bonnets and the cooler case are longer (and the case with it´s grill is also wider!) than shown in the drawings. 2.) The Protar designers did not represent the real car,they just used the partial wrong blueprints to develop their kit,made many mistakes and added a lot of fantasy rivets. 3.) The Monza car with the 15-numbers shows the same proportions as the prototype and is an advanced version of the same car.The cabin was changed (to improve it´s aerodynamics) by integrating a somewhat flattened wind-shelter into it´s structure and by shifting some louvres to another places. 4.) Unfortunately only 3 useful Pictures of the Monza car exist and these are showing it´s left side.(The frontal view is very blurred) We can only speculate about the cabin´s shape at it´s right side. That´s the harsh reality,gentlemen,but there is good news too:It is possible,to solve all of these problems and to avoid painful hindsight. If you look at my Mefistofele construction (Fiat Mefistofele Protar + Italeri, www. wettringer-modellbauforum.de) you might notice, that the rear of the model does not match exactly with the original shape. So be warned: Trust your yardsticks, trust your eyes,, but never trust a Protar / Italeri kit. That´s it for now, many greetings from good old Germany! Hannes: . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Welcome aboard Hannes! Had a quick look at your Mefisto and it looks very nice indeed! You've sectioned the tail; right!? Are you working on the 806 now? To solve many of the proportion problems, I think 3-4mm needs to be removed from the bottom of the bodywork to start. I still maintain the body profile is incorrect across the hood to cockpit area. The real car was more triangular in section, which is born out by Sam's recently added photo from left rear. This would be a nightmare to reproduce without making a new body master...I'm not going that far! The profile of the cockpit fairing is also too bulbous -- could be cured with a vacformed part. Again, not sure if life is not too short! John Edited October 23, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Dear John, your first question :the answer is no I did not Change the Mef´s rear and I am angry now,that I failed to do so.Your second Question:Yes,I try to improve My old Protar 806 Which I bought 25 years ago (at this time no Pictures from the Internet were available)I shortened the bodywork at ist front 6mm and it´s very ugly tail about 3 mm.Maybe Ishould send some Pictures about my Operation Pinocchio (the nose gets longer) But please be Patient with me because I´m not used to communicate via Internet and with my 1-finger-system I am not very quick..You see all the great letters?Its the german System and because I´m not a computer-nerd I can´t Change it right now.I´ll make some photos tomorrow and send it to the Island.A photo says more than thousand words and I´m curious about your opinions.Many greetings! Hannes 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Welcome Hannes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Great! Looking forward to seeing them Hannes...what an amazing thread this is turning into! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Hello to all, I had family at home this w.e and my nephew Sylvain, very competent in mechanics, has made me change my mind about the ignition wiring. I'll change that soon... Naturally, I share with you these precious informations... Regards Olivier Edited October 23, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph correction 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Hello, Olivier,this is Hannes Thank you very much for your welcome. I hope, you did not mean me for not sharing informations.The engine construction still lies far ahead for me,because I´m currently busy with the bodywork .Of Course I am willing to share every Information I have.Maybe you are interestet in,how I constructed the spark plugs for my mefistofele.or where you can get tiny brass profiles to make a surroundig for the Screen of the steering Wheel of the 806..I´m really willing to share informations and I would be glad,if I could help .Many greetings to beautiful France Hannes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) No Hannes, I did not mean at all you for not sharing informations. Thanks for kind message and again, welcome! Olivier Edited October 23, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph addition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Welcome Hannes. I do not contribute to this thread by a Corsa 806 build, but, very interested, I try to contibute with my thoughts and research, to document the discussion. CC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Hello Hannes, Very much welcome ! herzlich willkommen ! In your first message you say there are 3 pictures of the prototype ( left side ) and 3 pictures of the Monza version ( right side ) is that correct ? i think the Monza pictures are on the italeri box, where can we find the other three ? also, i agree there should be some "pinnochio" operation. We had a discussion a while ago on how the bonnet seemed longer on the pictures. So your explanation on the alteration is very interesting. Where did you learn about the modifications Fiat did on the Monza ? do you think the wires were exposed on the engine or in a tube ? kind regards from Switzerland ( by the way, am going tomorrow to Munich for two days ) Sam PS yes indeed, i am very interested in your mefisto spark plugs !! am redoing the engine entirely ( italeri ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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