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Fiat 806 -"Gangshow"- build album.


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WP_20160525_005_zpsvnrjhqm5.jpgA question for Steve (or someone else, cause I see much of you did approx. the same): the little connectors are they scratch or is it possible to find them? if it's scratch, how do you proceed to make them? 

Other question, about the wires: what did you use? PVC? other? what diameter? I was thinking using 1mm tin wire...

Thanks for your help.

Kind regards

Olivier

 

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
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Hi Olivier,

 

The connectors can be made by flattening aluminium tubes, drilling a hole and filing to shape. Roy has a tutorial on this if I am not mistaken.

 

For the wires, you can use thread wrapped wires found in craft stores. If they go fuzzy, just a quick pass with a lighter should do. The lighter would also give a light brownish look simulating light weathering.

 

Regards,

Jeremy

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Thank you Jeremy, very kind.

Do you have a precision about the aluminium tubes (diameter, where to find them, ref....). I was thinking using tin foils, it is another possibility (I've got that).

What is Roy pseudo on the forum?

I don't see exactly what you mean by "thread wrapped wires"... Are they PVC tubes? 

Anyway, thanks again, your reply ever helps me 

Regards

Olivier

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jnkm13 said:

Hi Olivier,

 

The connectors can be made by flattening aluminium tubes, drilling a hole and filing to shape. Roy has a tutorial on this if I am not mistaken.

 

Regards,

Jeremy

 

Exactly the same process than I use, but with brass tubes, even though they are harder to drill, because, IMHO, much better to get a good shape, filing them.

That's explained too in one of my last posts on the "Bugatti T50....: a resurrection" topic.

It's about mechanical connectors and not electrical ones, but the process is the the same...

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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8 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

That's explained too in one of my last posts on the "Bugatti T50....: a resurrection" topic.

Merci Thierry

je suis allé regarder ton superbe topic sur la Bugatti T50 Pocher et j'y ai trouvé le tuto sur la fabrication des connecteurs. Ils sont super, surtout avec la 1ère méthode. Souvent,les connecteurs sont surdimensionnés, mais là, c'est parfait. Reste à les réaliser à l'échelle 1/12, encore plus difficile qu'au 1/8... J'avais pensé aux feuilles d'étain, comme matériau, qu'en penses-tu? et sinon, quelle épaisseur pour la feuille d'alu, 0,5mm? plus? J'ai beaucoup aimé aussi les câbles, qui ne sont pas trop gros: je suppose qu'ils étaient fournis avec le kit. Je me demande toujours ce que je vais utiliser pour les câbles, un diamètre de 1mm me semblerait idéal, mais je n'ai pas trouvé des tubes PVC de 1mm sur le Net. Si tu as une suggestion, elle sera bienvenue...

Au fait, tu habites où, en France, si ce n'est pas indiscret?

 

Thank you Thierry I've been looking your great topic on Bugatti T50 Pocher and I found the tuto on the manufacturing of connectors there. They are great, especially with the 1st method. Often, connectors are oversized, but there, it's perfect. 1/12, even more difficult than in 1/8 remains to realize them in the scale... I thought using tin foils, as material, what do you think about it? and otherwise, what thickness for the sheet of alu, 0,5mm? More? I also liked a lot cables, which are not too big: I suppose that they were supplied with the kit. I always wonder what I am going to use for cables, a 1mm diameter would seem to me ideal, but I did not find tubes PVC of 1mm on the Net. If you have a suggestion, it will be welcome...

Best regards

 

Olivier

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Hello Sam,

Yes, this solution seemed to me more simple than Andi's one (maybe I'm wrong). You can count about 16 hours to make the 4 wheels (I said 12h but was too optimistic...) It is much easier than for the radiator grille, because, for this, there were very little spaces between the strips, and necessity to have very parallel bars (maybe I begin to be trained, too...)

About the nipples, I won't do them. First because it is ever a big job to make the 72 spokes (72 x 4 = 288 spokes...), but also because, if you have a precise look at the Mefisto wheel (see on your great Mefisto forum), they are nearly invisible, so discreet, and I experimented to make so small nipples unsuccessfuly. That said, Andi, banny, Triumphfan and VT nipples look good, I just find them a bit oversized compared with the main reference we have for this Fiat, which is the Mef.

 

Olivier

 

Mefisto%20deacutetails%20chaicircne%20et

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40 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Muis allé regarder ton superbe topic sur la Bugatti T50 Pocher et j'y ai trouvé le tuto sur la fabrication des connecteurs. Ils sont super, surtout avec la 1ère méthode. Souvent,les connecteurs sont surdimensionnés, mais là, c'est parfait. Reste à les réaliser à l'échelle 1/12, encore plus difficile qu'au 1/8... J'avais pensé aux feuilles d'étain, comme matériau, qu'en penses-tu? et sinon, quelle épaisseur pour la feuille d'alu, 0,5mm? plus? J'ai beaucoup aimé aussi les câbles, qui ne sont pas trop gros: je suppose qu'ils étaient fournis avec le kit. Je me demande toujours ce que je vais utiliser pour les câbles, un diamètre de 1mm me semblerait idéal, mais je n'ai pas trouvé des tubes PVC de 1mm sur le Net. Si tu as une suggestion, elle sera bienvenue...

Au fait, tu habites où, en France, si ce n'est pas indiscret?

 

Thank you Thierry I've been looking your great topic on Bugatti T50 Pocher and I found the tuto on the manufacturing of connectors there. They are great, especially with the 1st method. Often, connectors are oversized, but there, it's perfect. 1/12, even more difficult than in 1/8 remains to realize them in the scale... I thought using tin foils, as material, what do you think about it? and otherwise, what thickness for the sheet of alu, 0,5mm? More? I also liked a lot cables, which are not too big: I suppose that they were supplied with the kit. I always wonder what I am going to use for cables, a 1mm diameter would seem to me ideal, but I did not find tubes PVC of 1mm on the Net. If you have a suggestion, it will be welcome...

Best regards

 

Olivier

 

Bonjour Olivier

 

La feuille d'alu que j'utilise a une épaisseur de 0.3 mm, ce qui donne, transposé depuis l'échelle 1/8, 2.4 mm, bonne épaisseur pour des connecteurs électriques de bougies par exemple.

Au 1/12, pour être très réaliste, il ne faut surement pas dépasser cette épaisseur.

Et si tu prends plus fin, avec ma technique,ça risque d'être trop mou.

Les câbles électriques jaunes avec bandes noires peuvent être achetés chez ModelMotorCars.com, pour vraiment pas cher (mais les frais de port incitent à faire une commande conséquente et ce ne sera pas ta tasse de thé)

Ils ont un diamètre de 0.9 mm, ce qui donne 7.2 mm au 1:1, donc réaliste me semble t-il pour des câbles de bougies.

Au 1:12, prendre du tube de 1 mm de diamètre donne 12 mm de section au réel, cela me semble gros.

J'aurai pris du 0.6..Tu peux utiliser du fil électrique gainé....On en trouve de toutes les sections dans les vieux ordinateurs, en dépouillant des vieux câbles USB etc....

Je te mets un MP pour mon lieu de résidence en France

 

Hi olivier

 

The alu sheet I use is 0.3 mm thick, so 2.4 mm at 1:1 scale, what is , in my opinion, correct for electrical connectors, of sparklugs for instance.

A 1:12 scale, to be realistic, you do not exceed this thickness.

And if you use a thinner one, with my method, this would be softer.

The electrical cables I use, yellow with black thin stripes, are really electrical wire and you can purchase them at ModelMotorCars.com, they are cheap (but the shipping cost can make reluctant)

They are 0.9 mm thick, so 7.2 mm at 1:1 scale, so rather realistic, I think, for sparkplug cable.

At 1:12 scale, taking 1 mm tube, you get 12 mm at 1:1, that seems too big.

I would have taken 0.6 mm one. You may use electrical wire...You can find of any thin sections in old computers, inside old USB cables etc...

I MP you for my residence  town

 

 

 

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Super, merci Thierry, là, je dois filer mais je vais débriefer avec attention ton dernier post, très intéressant.

Par contre, c'est quoi, ton MP?? Pas trouvé ton lieu de résidence, du coup...

Encore merci

Olivier

 

69%20gros%20plan%20sur%20la%20calandre%2

 

P.S: About the nipples, another argument: do you see nipples on that wheel Fiat 806 enlargement?

That said, I will probably do very little ones, probably with my flowable lightcuring resin, just to say there are some...

Model making learns to watch with care, it is a human tendance to exagerate things. Meanwhile, it is true that on some other cars, there are bigger...

 

Regards to all

 

Olivier

 

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Bonjour Olivier

Crazycrank beat me to it! I was also going to advise the use of electric cable. One of the things I learned from this site was not to throw anything away - cable, wine bottle foil, aluminium pie tins. Credit must go to Andi for these tips.

I wish I had seen the Bugatti T50 tutorial it would have saved me a lot of time. However, I found some suitable cable, then aluminium tube of the same inside diameter and followed the same process as above.

By the way, I will not be adding nipples to my wheels.

 

Best regards

 

John

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Dear John,

yes, I appreciated very much Thierry's (Crazycrank) help for the problem of the cables and connectors. On his suggestion (in a MP), Capture%20drsquoeacutecran%202016-10-04%I found in a network cable 0,65mm diameter PVC tubes in different colors, including red, which is the color I'd like for my cables (in the lack of information, I prefer it like that than in black).

About the nipples, I send another photo of Mef' wheel, that shows nipples should be very small (1,15 mm lenght, and just a little larger than the spoke). 

Hope this will help you to decide what to do about these nipples: the best would be to do little ones, but I think it's better doing nothing than doing too big (IMHO).

 

Very friendly

 

Olivier

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Dear Sam, dear all,

you're welcome, Sam! Finally, working on screen captures and enlarging them, maybe we don't need to go to Torino ;)

Your traffic sign is very suitable, cause re-spoking with my method is very long and delicate, especially when you put the 5 parts together (308 to 312P). Don't do the same error I made, using the screws, but cement them. In fact, the cyano cement is fragile and screwing should ruin a good part of the patient work you did before. Hope this is clear, if not, tell me, I will try to explain better...

So, I lost time on my first wheel, but now, I know how to do for the next ones.

I hardly suggest to use a cyano activator to go faster cementing the spokes: you put a little drop of activator (I use Cyberbond activator, very good) on the area you will place your spoke, then you take the spoke (to the good lenght), you dive the bottoms in the cyano gel (just a little drop) and you place the spoke as it must be: take care, with the activator, the cement gets hard instantly, which will make you earn time but requires a good placement with no correction possible.

 

Very friendly

 

Olivier

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Hello to all,

here is my first wheel, whew, I thought I would never succeed... (see last post) I could have waited the next one to show photos (it will be better) but the result is nevertheless acceptable despite the big trouble it has been.

After cementing all the spokes, you must paint the different parts before assembly (photo 1). I used Revell satin black.

The valve (changed following the screen captures) should be painted (the plug in X-11 enamel)

Then, you cement (no screwing, as ever said) (photo 2)

And then you put the wheel in the tyre, with care. My only regret is to use the Mef' tyre, that is wrong, as you all know. So, if I decide to build the Mef' after the 806, they will have the same wheel :o

 

Very friendly to all

 

OlivierIMG_1548_zpsfb4ifpwt.jpgIMG_1549_zpsu6kocqtz.jpgIMG_1550_zpsw739gug4.jpg

 

 

 

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P.S: 1) I don't think I will erase the Dunlop inscriptions as Italeri requires in the instructions. On the few documents we have, there are not white or yellow inscriptions. Think I prefer it as on the box-art, as it is...

2) If you enlarge the last photo, you will notice little lacks of paint on some spokes, with the steel appearing. It is voluntarily that I let these lacks,I think it gives a metal aspect that I like.

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Fabulous work.

The weathering is top !

 

for the tyres, may be see what Von Trips did ; he casted resin tyres, in white, beautiful... real mafioso :mg: 

may be when i build the 806 i'll do the same but paint them black

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Thank you Sam :)

About the tyres, I know VT made them in resin from Protar's ones (great work), but I suppose he will not let them in white...

I would love to get Protar tyres, but I don't know if VT could make them for me and the cost for that. Other question, the re-spoked wheel is very fragile and I would be afraid putting that wheel in the resin tyre to create risks (that's why I would prefer rubber tyres). 

VT, if you read this, can you give me informations about this option (cost, how to insert the wheel in the resin (hard I suppose etc.)

Olivier

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It took me about 1,5 weeks to go through all of this thread, reading every single post and admiring every single picture. 

 

I learned three things:

 

1. I won't ever buy this kit because too much has to be corrected. 

2. When corrected, one of the most elegant racing cars I've ever seen reaches existence. 

3. I'll therefore probably buy this kit anyway and when I'll do so this very thread will be my main source of reference. 

 

I enjoyed all build progress, the discussions and all the craftsmanship involved. I'm not using the word artistry because, just like Andy, I think that modelling is in itself no art form (although through modelling art can be made, for example certain dioramas or fantasy). However, we should all agree that the human brain is one big piece of art allowing these true-to-life creations to develop and turn into what is now showcased in this topic.

 

Von Trips and his technical chapters, Andy and his amazingly realistic spot-on weathering and all other builders in this topic, none of who have failed to surprise me in one way or another. Simply great stuff and an excellent read regarding friendship through hobby, willingness to share, thorough research and incredible results. 

Edited by Roy vd M.
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Hello to all

A question about the ignition wiring: the Mef and many cars of that period had tubes in which ignition wiring were running. I know we miss 806 engine photos but what do you think? An American modeller made it, I will post as soon as possible the photo of its engine with brass tubes.

Our difficult detective work goes on...

All the best

Olivier

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45 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Hello to all

A question about the ignition wiring: the Mef and many cars of that period had tubes in which ignition wiring were running. I know we miss 806 engine photos but what do you think? An American modeller made it, I will post as soon as possible the photo of its engine with brass tubes.

Our difficult detective work goes on...

All the best

Olivier

 

Are you sure you can post on this site pictures of a modeler that you pick up on another website, without his authorization ?  would it not be more appropriate to put here a link to his topic ?

Due to copyright issues, of course !

Saying that, saying nothing :rolleyes:

 

Friendly

Thierry

 

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Yes Thierry, you're right. I take advantage of this post to thank you again for the great info you shared with me on MP (in french) including this photo I talked about.

The best would be to get the authorization from this model maker (sure he would allow) and in the same time, ask him on what elements he relied to decide making these tubes...

When I have a little time (not now), I try to come into contact with him, maybe by IPMS...

 

Very friendly

Olivier

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Waiting for the authorization and coming into contact with Bill as mentionned above, this is the link to see the tubes I said. Go on picture 9 /14 to see it (sorry, Thierry, I used your link to earn time...C'est là que cela se passe

Waiting for your comments...

Best regards

Olivier

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By all means have a chat (on-line) with the builder but, looking over the thread, by his own admission, the builder has chosen to finish the model in a "Steam Punk" style. There may have been little or no effort to try and replicate the real car.

Nice build but not something I would use for inspiration if chasing accuracy.

 

Atb, Steve.

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Yes, Steve, I understand what you mean. By the same token, the ignition wires are too thick and he didn't re-spoke the wheels, considering Italeri's ones are very good. So, I agree with you that this achievement, with all the respect we may have (it's still a nice build, as you say) can't be a reference in terms of accuracy. I suppose he considered probable the presence of these tubes due to their presence on the Mef that was produced just 4 years before (and many other cars of that period). Ahh, if we just could find an old photo of this 406 engine... :mellow:

In the meantime, I am now ont his 14th step and still don't know what to decide...

Steve, what does mean Atb? A très bientôt? 

Best regards to all

Olivier

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