Jnkm13 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 I have only tried zero paint once. It goes on matt. Would be interesting to see how it looks after waxing. For my Mephisto, i used Mr. Color's Super Italian Red, then sprayed on a few coats to semi-gloss to bring down the shine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Very first part made: Not happy with the huge steering wheel boss on the model. Scanned the rear 3/4 shot in the instructions and they seem to have misinterpreted the info. The circular piece on the wheel appears to be a thin plate that's been pressed into a u section. If you check it out you will see the wheel spider spokes through the 12 holes. I'll attempt to machine this part. The clear wheel cover also extends into the hub centre, with no boss showing underneath it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 John .... sorry bloke - I can see what you've done, but can't grasp what it is you're trying to tell me - "what twelve holes"? I've stared at the instructions and I'm not really getting it. I have however for my own benifit mackled this plan image together to make sense of that same area? ......................... Any help? - to you or anyone else????.................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Sorry Andi, should've been more specific! Part 64E. In the photo on the inside cover this plate sits on the wheel and is very thin. Thanks for the drawing. Looks like my guess for the boss is roughly the same; though I'm sceptical on most published plans because they tend to be cribbed from models!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks for the drawing. Looks like my guess for the boss is roughly the same; though I'm sceptical on most published plans because they tend to be cribbed from models!!! OK - thanks for the clarification, I'll keep an eye on your solution as it looks as though you have it sorted in your mind. Regards the plan I suspect you might be right, as I was very sceptical myself coming across something so accurate(?) and "available" especially as the general wisdom is that this car is all but a phantom such is the lack of information. And that for me is the crux, because whomever drew this up must of spent some considerable time researching and sweating over the details ... and in the light of anything better I'm tending to go with this as a best guess. Perhaps a little lazy(?) but I am determined not to turn this into a quest ............................. Ask Steve about his FIF! ................... and then it all comes swimming into focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) I'm with you as far as avoiding a quest is concerned...I'm 5 years in on my Stutz project already! I'm only modifying anything visible that I can cross reference to the few available pics. With regards to your comment on the drawing, there is a notable difference to the kit that I had already planned on changing, as it bugs me. I only noticed this as Rich's model is sat in front of me. The steering idler arm (part 30b) is way too long and allows the connecting rod to arc in and out, lock to lock. The plan has it perpendicular to the forward aft movement of the rod which is the correct geometry. Nothing a car buff wouldn't notice but as you say, the draughtperson has done some research. While we're at it, have you looked at the engine yet? I'm wondering about parts 84c & 30E! The instructions call out flat black for them, but all the completed kits have a chrome finish? I image these parts were fabricated in brass and possibly painted black. Chances are they would not be welding shiney stuff - alloy or stainless back in the day? I think the flat ends on 30E are odd as it's the water manifold. They would have had an idea about laminar flow back then, so in theory would have made rounded ends? Anyway, just some thoughts! Edited January 27, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) Hmm .... I haven't got much past that wheel lacing as of yet when it comes to thinking. I know I said I'd take it easy and build them through the kit assembly, but frankly I keep working out ways to make them quicker and easier - so whilst the iron is hot - and all that! However, I've cast an eye over those parts you mentioned and yes, that steering arm is way adrift as a mechanical rendering. I think it has been made like that for the kits sake and to enable an easy stress free steering mechanism - big clumsy young fingers - and all that! My knowledge of mechanical physics are limited in this area but I'm sure it should be cranked in order to maintain a cross-unilateral motion between the steering arm and link; and not an arc as you mentioned? That sounded a bit "techy" I know but I couldn't think of a better way to describe it - suffice to say that part 30b is too compromised to not need to be replaced with something a little more mechanically prototypical. Re - parts 84c and 30e ............... without thinking too hard about it I can see them being a "brass" component, a chance to detail some nice brazed seams (he said facetiously) and I'm not so sure given the circumstances they would've even have got a coat of paint - if this is the case mine might go without!! And also YES, those chopped flush ends just look plain wrong - I might soften them anyway - even if I can't find any evidence to support the fact. Now let me get these dang-nabbit wheels finished ............................ Edited January 27, 2016 by Little Andi 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 A quick pic' to show what we're talking about - look at the steering arm just inside the front wheel (farside) and appearing just in front of the radiator. In this pic' it actually looks for all the world "crescent" shaped. But regardless it's definitely NOT straight ..... I can see this is going to be one of those if it looks right it is right situations!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgregor Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Some great though process going on here guys, on such limited documentation. Mac 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hi guys, For those already working on this kit, i found that part 146D also doesn't fit well onto one side. I can't recall whether it's 144D or 145D which 146D doesn't fit into. Reason is 146D's opening is rectangular but the corresponding part is more of a rhomboid. Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hi guys, Another mistake is that the clear film provided as the windscreen is way shorter than the frame. It's an easy fix, but for the price i paid for this kit, i shouldn't have to. Jeremy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thanks for the tips Jeremy! Sounds like you're deep into the build!? Not sure I'm going to add the exhaust tips, because they look a little clumsy, plus I can't see them in any pics! Just realised I saved some pics from your excellent Mefistofele build; do you have the WIP link? It would be good to have it on here! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Good that you keep us appraised of issues as you come across them Jeremy, it's really what this kind of thread is all about. And having said that I'm sure we'd all like to see some pic's of your progress so far ..... pic's are always a welcome diversion from page after page of discourse, discussion, and text. Unfortunately I'm still bogged down with the wheel lacing so not much to show that hasn't been seen already - kind of working up a bit of fizz to get cracking on the kit though. Biggest dilemma at the moment is will I start on the Engine or the Chassis first .............. (Chassis feels like a responsible place to start thinking about it). Keep posting chap ..... looking forward to each and every update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Argh...Not sure how I missed this, but the exhausts taper (in side elevation) towards the headers from the join next to the cockpit. Protar must have designed this kit as they went along! The exhaust near the headers is not much larger in diameter than the headers themselves...thought they looked odd dumping into a large box section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Yes John ..... as I'm starting to look forward a little into the start of the build it appears Protar suffered as much as anyone with the lack of empirical evidence. Which I guess is a double edged sword really? In the first instance it's so very frustrating trying to deal with this lack of reference, equally though what a "get out of jail free" card!!! I think the biggest fear really is making a judgement call on something and then evidence turning up to the contrary! ............... My world wouldn't stop turning in such a scenario - but I probably would develop some kind of "tic" every time I passed it by. PS ........... Thanks for it mentioning though - I can now slim that whole area down into something far more worthy of "Italian styling" and if anyone challenges me I can point at you and proclaim - "It's him - he told me to do it" ................. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 New drums: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Ooo .... turning your own new drums - can't compete with that (not that it's a competition obviously); I just don't have the facilities. Which is why I invariably have to come up with some weird and wacky way to get stuff done - looks very good though. .................................I haven't had a proper look yet but the drums seem terribly thin - or is it just me? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 I love the way you are making your own bits to improve the model. Great stuff here all being tucked away... Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) Cheers guys! Can't help turning stuff as I find it very therapeutic! The one on the left is a copy of the kit part I made last night. As Andi suggested the drums seem a little thin. I had a close look at the few side-on shots and can only see one ridge on the front drums so have changed the design a bit. The back drums won't have a ridge. I've kept the edges flat with just a groove near the face as seen in the colour cutaway drawing. I'm also convinced from the pics that the backplates had a return lip around the edge of the drum so will have to make them too...probably in resin. Hopefully, this will be limit of the scratch building on this one?! There is some method in the madness as I want to try out my mini sandblaster, which I've had sitting idle here for far too long! Edited January 30, 2016 by vontrips 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) Resin test backplate with a 0.7mm deep rebate for the drum...testing my skills and patience, or lack off, here! Now got to find a way of machining the back without it exploding into pieces. Resin thickness will be about 0.5mm...ho hum! Edited January 30, 2016 by vontrips 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Nobody has a mini sand blaster! I wish I had a lathe and more importantly, knew how to use it! Great work on the drums. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) Cheers Chief! Mini blaster's cheap as chips: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AIRBRUSH-SANDBLASTER-Etch-Etching-Glass-Etcher-Air-Abrasive-Sprayer-Eraser-New-/300848823324?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253D03cb4816a2a74c51b77a8c1e4a37fd7b%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D2%2526rkt%253D4%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D390779749806&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460 This is the same as mine and a very nicely made bit of kit. I Don't have a booth to use it in and the media goes everywhere...garden for me then - if it stays mild! I can only say you must get a lathe, if you love car modelling...you will become absorbed by it! It doesn't have to be flash - I'm a huge fan of the Chinese mini-lathes. Yes, they need to be stripped and set up properly from the get go and need regular tweaks, but that's part of the fun. Learning is all part of the fun too and is a rapid process as you soon learn how to avoid losing hours of work!!! A lot of it (like working with cars) is common sense, mechanical sympathy through the fingertips and thinking individual projects through (and a bit of luck pushing). My biggest issue is work holding. But I've learnt through practice the hold stuff losely and take very gentle cuts to save the piece and the lathe. I went to a funny UK grammar school and they didn't allow me to do metalwork so I'm completely self taught. Here's one of my tricks; pro's have watched me do this and think it's mad, but it makes perfect sense. Cutting/boring on the right side with the lathe running backwards. Right direction for the tool and allows one to see exactly what's going on. Also working well within the Chuck jaws here - yikes! Edited January 30, 2016 by vontrips 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) Badly photographed puppies! Edited January 30, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Very nice and it certainly enhances the look. I've been procrastinating about getting a lathe and I keep telling myself I have to get rid of some kits first. Problem is, I get rid of some kits and then buy other kits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Very nice and it certainly enhances the look. I've been procrastinating about getting a lathe and I keep telling myself I have to get rid of some kits first. Problem is, I get rid of some kits and then buy other kits! The sale of a good Pocher kit will get you a mini-lathe, plus loads of goodies. Sell another and you can get a mini-mill (which you'll be gagging for, once you're hooked and a lathe slave!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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