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1/32 Aerotech Spirit of St Louis. FINISHED


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Some more detail work. The kit anemometer needed a slight modification. The mast that mounts on the fuselage was also streamlined, so I fabricated one from plastic card and brass rod.

 

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Small but important detail.

 

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Whilst dry fitting the kit parts together to asses the sit and look of the model, I was noticing that there was something not quite right with the propeller. It just looked a bit odd and upon further investigation, one of the blades was 1mm shorter than the other. Not a huge amount but it was drawing my attention enough that it needed to be be fixed. I cut the sort blade and shimmed it with 1mm thick plastic card and blended the blade to the correct shape. It should be noted that the blades are far too thick (as with most of the kit) and this part has been thinned quite a bit in this pic. 

 

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I felt the pitot tube could be done a bit better and that it should be a bit longer according to my references. I scratch built a new one from 4 parts of brass, soldered together. I have made it so that it can be removed for travel. If you look carefully, the ends are hollow.

 

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One thing on the kit that i was keen to depict was the Periscope that Lindbergh used to make sure he wasn't going to fly into waves during his ocean crossing. There is no real provision for it in the kit apart from a small square of PE meant to depict it in the closed position. I feel that it is an important part of the aircraft, as the fact that there is no forward windscreen may shock someone who may not be familiar with the type, and could possibly be seeing this aircraft for the first time on a comp table. Closer examination will reveal the small rectangular thing jutting from the side window.

 

I tried out a few different sizes of brass square tube but none seemed to be right.I settled on cutting up a long thin section of Tamiya PLA paper, and formed 4 pieces of it into the hollow periscope, capping it off with a thicker square of sytrene. 

 

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Once painted, I glued a small piece of Milo tin membrane into it to depict the mirror.

 

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test fitted, looks OK.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I am leapfrogging builds at the moment getting both this and my Mirage ready for Model Expo in just over a months time. It was time to consider how I was going to paint the model and also apply the markings. I have been getting progressively more proficient in using my Silhouette mask cutter and have been pushing it harder to cut smaller masks, as well as getting into the advanced features of the software. I have to say that I am extremely impressed with the software included with the machine as it really seems to be able to cope with what us modelers need from it.
 
I have been experimenting a bit with taking screenshots of my work with the software, so please bare with me.
 
I wanted to see how far I could go with the markings of the aircraft as they would be very well suited to spraying them rather than using the included decals. This feature of the mask cutter couldn't be more suited to our hobby and it makes me rather excited to be able to do it. First things first. I scanned the decal sheet at high resolution (using the scanner in my other mancave)
Once I had the decals scanned as a JPG, it was a simple matter to open the image into a new project in Silhouette Studio. It is as easy as clicking File, Open and then selecting the image from wherever it is stored. You can then resize the image to fit the screen. There is no need to size it to the exact size required as this will come later.
 
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The decal sheet as a JPG imported in to the software and opened up into a new project.
 
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Using the Trace feature, select the area that is required to be cut. There are a few different setting that can be tweaked to capture the edges as well as a few settings that can determine the way in which the software traces the image.
 
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Once the image has been traced, it can be moved aside, leaving the thin red lines that the software has drawn.By double clicking on each element of the design, the `points' that the computer used to draw the shape can be seen. There is quite a few odd ones there that aren't needed as per the image below and in the case of fairly simple lettering, can be deleted to make the element simpler. 
 
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Now that we have the markings in the program I made a quick comparison the the real aircraft where some differences can be seen.
 
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By clicking on the element that needs to be changed, the points become visible. As can be seen, I have simplified it from the picture earlier.
 
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It is now very easy to manipulate the element as needed. As can be seen I have started to match it more closely to the picture.
 
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Now to size the marking. Using a feature on the real aircraft that was near or under the markings, in this case the aileron, I measured it on the model. 
 
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I drew a straight line that was approx 52.80 mm long. Holding down the shift key when drawing a straight line will align it with horizontal or vertical. Using the scale function, the exact measurement can be typed, rather than the tricky point and click method. This was then placed under the corresponding area of the marking on the screen which was then dragged down to the appropriate size.
 
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Once I was happy with the size, I cut the mask. This one is just for sizing and fit and will not be sprayed (the model is still in primer at this stage). I also made a very small cut out for the control horn.

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I love the way you are manipulating the images into data so you can make spray templates

 

This is a thread I intend learning a lot from, wonderful modelling all through

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How on earth had I missed this build until now?  As Bill says, I have learned more in two pages of your work than in some complete builds.  Great stuff!

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Thanks guys.

 

Onto the paint. This model was always going to be painted with Tamiya AS-12. I have a few models painted using this excellent paint now and couldn't see any benefit of changing things now. I have always applied this straight from the can as it comes out just right.

 

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This stuff looks very dodgy when it is first applied!

 

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Once dry though, it is the best paint for replicating Aluminium doped or high speed silver finishes. It is very smooth, with fine pigment and is quite forgiving when handled.

 

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After much consideration, I decided to apply the metal panels using 30 minute epoxy adhesive. I needed something that would give me time to position and re position the metal panels, as well as being able to smooth out the glue under the panels before it cured to give it a nice flat appearance. Needless to say, any mistake here could result in alot of extra work to fix it.

 

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Once each panel was in place, I taped over it tightly to hold it down whilst it was curing.

 

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Perfect!

 

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I just have the front panels under the cylinders to do now, which will require a bit more thought. Notice how each panel overlaps the one next to it, the same as the real aircraft. I will add some fasteners later.

 

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Cracking work, great thread, passed a nice quiet 1/2 hour at work. :giggle:

 

I've got a silhouette cutter too, and although I rarely use it, it's made some very useful (if far more simple than yours) masks for me in the past.

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Onto the slightly more difficult front panels. I made up some templates using my mask cutter and then traced the patterns onto the aluminium. I then applied the engine turning technique as per the method described earlier. One the glue was set I was left with this:

 

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I then applied pressure to the areas where the holes were for the cylinders which allowed me to see where I needed to remove the metal.

 

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Using a new blade I carefully cut out most of the hole

 

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And then used a toothpick to burnish the edges smooth as well as make the holes for the intake manifold and the push rods

 

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Perfect! just one more to go.

 

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I finally finished the metal cowls. To say that I am happy with the finished product is an understatement! What started out as an idea, or more of a challenge to myself is now a reality. I always say to those that visit my workshop that there is no such phrase as `can't be done'.

 

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A few small touch ups were carried out using the same felt tip in the dremel.

 

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Completed, ready for markings.

 

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Now that the hard bits were out of the way it was time to move on with the markings.

 

The real test of the mask cutter was going to be the Spirit of St Louis text on the cowl. Of course, I had the kit decals to fall back on if the machine couldn't do the work required of it but this project was always about pushing the boundaries. I Using the same process as before, scanning in the kit decals, allowing the software to work out the lines, and then editing the lines to appear as close as possible to the real aircraft. It took multiple attempts to get it right, as the machine sometimes doesn't cut exactly what is on the screen, especially for stuff this small. Some areas of the letters required larger angles of points and slightly different shapes to some of the curves. It was a process of design, cut, place on the model, assess and then redo as required until I got something I was happy with to shoot paint through. As can be seen here, each letter is made up of a series of points which can be clicked on and dragged around and each point has a radius on it which can also be edited as required to change it angle or curve. Another handy feature of it is that once the text was complete, it can be `grouped' and scaled up or down as required. Even the angle of the `Spirit' part of the text was able to be isolated and its angle changed to suit the kit cowl.

 

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Whilst I was in the final editing stage of the masks, I made a small allowance to the underside rego, as the left side of the N wraps around the pitot tube.

 

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The final sheet:

 

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Just like a bought one (although this one has been solidly tested on a real model!)

 

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Now the fun part, shooting paint through my home grown masks.

 

I decided to start on the least visible marking, the underside rego. I used Gunze Tire black thinned with MR Self levelling thinner and sprayed at a low pressure.

 

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Next up was the topside rego, a much larger mask.

 

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Bloody perfect!

 

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The tail markings were next, same process.

 

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Whilst the paint was drying on the main markings, I used some bare metal foil to replicate the oleos. 

 

The brass oleo was painted with the rest of the model and required finishing to give it a polished metal look.

 

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I cut up a small piece of bare metal foil (much thinner and fragile stuff than the foil I used on the cowls) 

 

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Wrapping it carefully around the oleos.

 

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I then burnished it onto the oleo with a cotton bud.

 

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It was then time to spray the Spirit of St Louis titles on the cowl. This was probably the high point of the markings process as it allowed me to preserve the metal finish of the cowl without any carrier film. Masking up the cowls wasnt really a problem as they are quite tough due to the type of metal used.

 

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Great success! I was a little dubious as to whether it would work to begin with but now I am hooked!

 

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Not too long before this one will be in my display cabinet or on a show table.

 

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thanks Eric - that really is outstanding work.  I love the way you have captured the decals (I know it's the wrong word but...). 

 

 

8 minutes ago, egalliers said:

Not too long before this one will be in my display cabinet or on a show table.

 

and you can be justifiably proud of it too !

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This model is simply sublime

 

I kinda guessed it was going to be from the very start

 

Its been very exciting to follow from the first engine turning to the finishing touches like the markings

 

Its going to be marvellous to enjoy the 'unveiling' at the end

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So I had one of those faaaarrrrrrrkkkkk moments that occasionally happen in this hobby when I went back through reference photos to nail down some of the final details. From the mid point of this project I had in mind that I wanted to depict the aircraft as it was immediately after it landed in Paris, and before the souvenier hunters took to the aircraft with a knife and cut out the Ryan logo on the right side of the rudder out (and various other damage done). From the kit decals, it was obvious that they had the period after the logo was cut out in mind as there was only one logo present, being for the left side. The kit decals also lacked the various flags of the nations visited which was present on the cowling of the aircraft. I had prepared an extremely small mask, at great difficulty, to spray the winged R logo that was missing in the kit decals. This alone didn't worry me.

 

Upon further inspection of period photos that I had only just discovered (always the case) something was bothering me about the aircraft and that was that the slits cut in all of the cowling panels were not present! This of course would mean a complete strip and re-do of all of the panels that I had worked so hard on. I guess these cooling slits were a modification made to the aircraft before its publicity trip around the USA and Latin America. I had started the process of marking out all of the panels to re do them before I came to my senses and stopped, just before I took to the model and tore them all off. The added time and difficulty of the re-work would mean that I would miss the self imposed deadline of having this on the comp table at a show in a few weeks time, not to mention the risks of completely stuffing the model up. I think I had already pushed my luck in getting the original panels to work, so decided to stay with them. I went back through and searched for a moment in time that the model would represent, that is, after the completion of the record breaking trip across the Atlantic, sometime during the trip around the USA and before the trip around Latin America. On the museum example (which the model is based upon) there is two tubes poking through the bottom of the fuselage aft of the pilot seat which were fitted before or during the Latin America trip to enable the dropping of flares for night landings. I had already gone to the trouble of removing these as they were a little rough (and also not present on any of the photos of the period of time that I originally wanted to depict) so I was indeed disturbed that I had missed the cooling slot issue. I settled upon a point in time 3 months after the Atlantic trip that allowed me to reasonably accurately depict the aircraft as was the present state of the model. This date was notable for being a short joy flight where Lindberg carried Henry Ford as a passenger, being Ford's first flight in an aircraft. 

 

All of that aside, it was time to start sorting out a few final details. I started with the patch repair of the rudder where the logo was cut out in Paris. Once again, a small mask was made up to do this. I airbrushed decanted AS-12 to give it a slightly different hue and it will be blended in a bit with the final clear coat.

 

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There were many small slits made in the front of the cowl to allow air to enter. These were present as dimples in the kit but I decided to paint these on rather than cut them out as per the original process. Yet another mask was made.

 

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Next up were the small vents on the top of the wing. These were included in the kit as white metal but were a bit clunky and could do with an improvement.

 

I selected some brass tube and inserted some copper wire into it.

 

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Pushed it in a little so that the copper wire would not be visible

 

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And then bent each part 90 degrees. The copper wire inserted previously stops the tube from crimping.

 

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The finished product. Looks way better.

 

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I wanted to add the many fasteners present on the cowling and propeller, so obtained an Archer decal sheet.

 

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Applied to the prop.

 

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Next up was the cowl. These raised detail decals really add an important element to the overall build.

 

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Pretty happy with how it is turning out.

 

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Onto the final details now.  Most of the kit parts in white metal are a bit over scale and clunky and certainly won't do the final product justice. Luckily they aren't too hard to sratchbuild.

First up the lifting handles on the rear of the fuselage. The kit part is in the tweezers. I made up some new ones from brass and plastic.

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The Venturi tube also copped the same treatment, which I turned up on my lathe.

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Installed with a bracket made of brass and mounting straps on the strut from the same metal foil as the cowls.

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The door got a handle on its inner side. The real one didnt have anything on the outside and it didn't have a window.

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The heater box and piping from the kit was a bit basic and lacked detail

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I formed lengths of thick copper wire to replace the heater piping and then wrapped them in thin copper wire

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Installed and painted. Looks a lot better.

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I also added a small lever and actuator to the heater box from scrap brass

 

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The rigging, Gaspatch turnbuckles and EZLine.

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Edited by egalliers
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