Artie Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Hi all...I've been trying to figure out how to re`plicate the swirly, polished metal front fuselage of this nice biplane....something similar to the nose of the famous "Spirit of St. Louis" Ryan.... I assume that was a kind of machined polished duraluminium, but the thing is...How to achieve a convincing finish ina 1/48 scale kit....?????? Any idea out there will be of great help...... This is a pic of an earlier Polikarpov I-5, but gives you an overall idea of what I mean... Cheers...!!! Edited December 4, 2015 by Artie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 On full size stuff, it's done with a sheet of abrasive, and twisted around, one at a time and move along a bit. You could try on the bare plastic and spray over the top I suppose. Very light coats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 On full size stuff, it's done with a sheet of abrasive, and twisted around, one at a time and move along a bit. You could try on the bare plastic and spray over the top I suppose. Very light coats. Yes, you're right.... a friend of mine did it exactly that way on his Harley's gas tank...(real bike, I mean)...and the effect was spot on....but when it comes to a 1/48 "Chato", things become very different...I was thinking about using a low-speed Dremel tool with some kind of "miniature abrasive" insert, over a polished aluminium painted surface....but can't find out any suitable "miniature abrasive"... :shutup: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnerboy Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 toothpaste on a round dowel in a Dremell ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azureglo Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Apparently its called "damascening" , I think we call it "engine turned". As for the Dremel/abrasive route, have look at this : Nearly at the end the very wonderful Rato Marczek shows what you may be looking for. The Internet is a blessed thing. Anil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobmig Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Many years ago I built a model of the Spirit of St. Louis. I painted the fabric surfaces. On the metal nose section I used "Rub-n-Buff". after buffing it I took a pencil with an eraser and trimmed the eraser to the correct diameter. Then I just twirled in against the buffed metal finish. It took a bit of time, but worked very well. If you want to try this I suffest you experiment with a scrap item first. I think "Run-n-Buff" is also sold under different brand names such as "Treasure Silver", etc. Try art supply shops... I gather it's used for picture frames and such things. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Many years ago I built a model of the Spirit of St. Louis. I painted the fabric surfaces. On the metal nose section I used "Rub-n-Buff". after buffing it I took a pencil with an eraser and trimmed the eraser to the correct diameter. Then I just twirled in against the buffed metal finish. It took a bit of time, but worked very well. If you want to try this I suffest you experiment with a scrap item first. I think "Run-n-Buff" is also sold under different brand names such as "Treasure Silver", etc. Try art supply shops... I gather it's used for picture frames and such things. Sounds good......I'll try to do it that way, but I'll need to find out any "rub'n'buff" substitute here in Tenerife.....I'm pretty sure they don't sell it here with that name...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobmig Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 It's a silver pigment (other colours, too, like pewter, gold, etc.) in a wax base. And while it looks good, that's also it biggest weakness... it's not a fast finish so you can'y mask over it. Possibly there are some fixatives that might seal it without dulling it. It would need some experimenting. No one seems to use the stuff any longer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laidlaw Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Paul Coudeyrette used Rub 'n Buff to great effect on his builds. He did a tutorial on his B-29 RFI here: B29A PACIFIQUE 1945 1/48 monogram I believe that, sadly, Paul has since passed away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousLL45 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 how about the pieces of etched brass that have the holes in? Use as a mask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yankymodeler Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 (edited) Here's a close-up of a part I've fabricated out of aluminum for a CNC machine I'm building. Might help get some ideas on how to reproduce the effect. It was done with a wire brush/wheel and drill press. Eric aka The Yankymodeler Edited December 6, 2015 by Yankymodeler 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cratecruncher Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Eric has the right process. You just need to scale it down. I did some experiments with a round wire brush Dremel attachment on this white metal fuel tank. I did it by hand so it's not perfect. It's more realistic under natural light than under the flash. Also, I sprayed it later with metal primer to protect it from tarnishing and that also created more contrast. Artie, since you are starting with a plastic panel I'd suggest first covering the fuse with kitchen grade aluminum foil, then experiment with a trimmed down pencil eraser and some fine grinding compound available at many auto parts stores. The trick is to create fine coherent scratches in the metal itself. That is what reflects the light back creating the dazzle effect. Also, when you get serious about doing it on the model, chuck your attachment into a stationary drill press and offer the model part to the attachment. Not the other way round. You'll get better control that way. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Great ideas, indeed......thank you very much for such an useful info, Sirs....I'll try to use a trimmed pencil eraser, and a special manicure tool (Rowenta) that my wife keeps like gold in to her "beauty case"...(please, never tell her about it)..... Cheers.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Humbrol Metalcote paints work similarly - spray them on and then buff up to a shine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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