cmatthewbacon Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 This is the Hasegawa boxing of Monogram/s 1/24 kit, with additional white metal parts by Fine Molds. First up, the body in Zero Paints Guardsman Blue, with Zero 2K clear coat. This is as she came out of the paint shop. There are a couple of minor blemishes to polish out, but other than that I don't plan on doing any more "added shininess" Here's a few of the engine in progress, to compare and contrast the original and Fine Molds parts: And this young lady will be popping in from time to time in this thread. She's a Master Box figure, from their new "Pin-Up" series: Loads more work to do on her as well, but she's very nicely sculpted... ;-P bestest, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Nice project. Will be interesting to see more of the Fine Moulds metal parts, must admit, I was not aware that Hasegawa had this in their catalogue. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) You can get a much better idea of the colour of the body. It's Zero Paints colour matched Guardsman Blue. Not too many parts here. The FM version of the kit provides the wheel carriers and diff casing in white metal, and both are crisper than the plastic mouldings Again, you can tell which is the metal engine and which the plastic, but Monogram's original tooling is pretty good. Now for the airbox, which is noticeably too chunky as a plastic part. Crash moulded replacement. The plastic is packaging material. Thin masking tape painted black for the "foam" seal. It's amazing how much detail both companies have put in to the carb block, considering it's almost all going to disappear under the air filter... The kit part. The instruments are just dry brushed with white, highlighted here and there with red, and then filled with Citadel 'Ard Coat clear varnish. Test fitted. That big ol' engine is certainly shoehorned in there! bestest, M. Edited February 18, 2016 by cmatthewbacon 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Gorgeous job M. Stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetroRacing Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Somehow you've managed to make these kits into some form of pornography. I like it very much lol Ashley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) Thanks, guys... progress is being made The handbrake and gear shift are white metal parts, the pedals, original Monogram plastic. Pretty good, I reckon. Odd how they did the AC logos, but ignored the accelerator completely! Wheels, huh? So, these are the original white metal rims, untouched. There or thereabouts, but I’m not quite convinced… And these are the Monogram plastic parts, the rear faces are sprayed with Humbrol Metalcote Steel, the fronts with Humbrol Aluminium (56) …and this: Is what they look like built up. bestest, M. Edited February 19, 2016 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) The white metal rims, gently sprayed with Tamiya “Smoke” and flat varnished. Now, tyres… Original hard vinyl tyres, press fitted onto a socket, and spun up to sand off the mould seam and distress. Post-“wearing”. I appear to have a pair of Michelin TRXs at the front, and some Goodyears at the rear! The end result. Air filters. {R} the white metal Fine Molds version, (L) the Monogram plastic piece, with the help of a Gundam pen… bestest, M. Edited February 19, 2016 by cmatthewbacon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 And the engines, more or less done… bestest, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 the pedals, original Monogram plastic. Pretty good, I reckon. Odd how they did the AC logos, but ignored the accelerator completely! They were probably so used to doing automatics they forgot a manual should have three pedals...!! Some nice work going on here M, I really like the finish on the wheels. All looking good! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Finally, the cockpit is getting there: The wires will become the door latch handles. A crude but workable system, and the FM white metal parts are exquisitely detailed… bestest, M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetroRacing Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Those wheels don't look right with me. They look too flat. Though that being said they look better with the tyres on lol. But I couldn't live with those mismatches. Michelin and Goodyear. Nope would drive my ocd crazy haha. That interior is looking good. Strange about the missing pedal. Maybe that's why the revellogram Dodge Charger has 4, to balance the pedal zen haha. Ashley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnie the panda Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Great paint finish, and I looove the alloys, I've worked on a few original cobras and they look spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Mate this is looking sensational! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Thanks, guys! First of all, thanks to a member on another forum, this is a great reference if you happen to be building one of these! http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1078-AC-Shelby427CompCobra-427c.i.8-Cylinder This is another test fit, now the engine is fully finished: Starting to look like a car now. NB: Before you glue the engine in position, feed the lower radiator hose through the centre lower triangular gap in the chassis frame cross bracing, and leave it loose in there. It will not go through with the engine in place, past the crank pulley. It will ESPECIALLY not go through it you try and work it the way the Revell/Monogram instructions would have you do it, after attaching it to the radiator. At least the Hasegawa instructions want you to try and feed the pipe through separately, but it still won't go. (edited after the fact, in case you're reading this before or during your own build!) The exhaust manifolds are painted with a new paint from Vallejo Metal Color called, wait for it... "Exhaust Manifold". And washed with AK Interactive "Exhaust Wash". I'm liking the effect very much. I polished the white metal discs, and left the callipers in rough bare metal, which looks pretty close to the real thing. Since the location of the rear discs on the frame is not very positive, I've glued them to the rear wheels instead. The front pair will go onto the chassis before the wheels are added, as the instructions suggest! Now for some seat belts... bestest, M. Edited February 24, 2016 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnie the panda Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Looking great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGA Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 This is a beauty! Love it! Were the Finemolds parts very expensive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks, chaps... the Fine Molds white metal parts are in the kit. It's a Japanese market version from Hasegawa, which combines the Monogram plastic with the Fine Molds pieces -- about 60 of them, including some etch as well as cast white metal. It's a significant upgrade, for sure. So, time for an ad break... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 ...and now, back to the real work! I'm using the white metal engine, obviously. But the plastic one isn't bad: The exhaust manifolds are clearly rather weedy by comparison, but otherwise I don't think it looks bad at all. Testing out the fit of the wheels. You start to realise how petite the chassis is when you see the wheels and engine in place. bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 If accuracy is important to you Matt, the alternator should not float on the belt. A simple bracket runs from the 9/16 bolt on the water pump, under the expansion tank and another 9/16 holds it to the alternator boss. Surprised it was not in your aftermarket metal set. Here's mine Also on originals, Shelbys and Kirkhams, the fuild reservoirs for brake and clutch are small black cans mounted to the driver side fenderwell, just at #5 cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 ...and another test: At last... something that's actually finished: the interior. The belt material is a slightly textured plastic, and not the easiest thing to thread through the photo-etch fittings! Oh, and look who's turned up again... It'll be much quicker now my glamorous assistant has arrived. bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 LOL love it M! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thanks, Codger... accuracy is important, but in this case, also impractical. For whatever reason, the alternator in the kit engines just doesn't line up the way yours does in real life. The front face is well in front of the water pump housing, so any brace wouldn't just go straight across, but down and back diagonally. I suspect it'll mostly be hidden by the header tank (I'm still rather concerned about whether that will clear the wiring from the distributor!) But thanks for the useful tips and photo. Lucky man... bestest, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thanks, Codger... accuracy is important, but in this case, also impractical. For whatever reason, the alternator in the kit engines just doesn't line up the way yours does in real life. The front face is well in front of the water pump housing, so any brace wouldn't just go straight across, but down and back diagonally. I suspect it'll mostly be hidden by the header tank (I'm still rather concerned about whether that will clear the wiring from the distributor!) But thanks for the useful tips and photo. Lucky man... bestest, M. It's a shame Finemolds made the parts but didn't get them quite right. A possible fix for the tank / wires; The water exit from the intake manifold is a 'J' shaped tube going into the bottom of the tank. You might make one that spaces the tank a bit forward of the wires. You can see it clearly in the close up right next to the alt bracket. It's the black steel tube. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks, guys... back on the road again... bestest, M. Edited March 12, 2016 by cmatthewbacon 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Next steps didn't take too long: bestest, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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