erewhon1872 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Hi all, I have an old decal sheet that is not yellowed but looking at it's condition I am pretty sure if I put one in water it will break into a 1000 pieces. I only want to use stencil details from the sheet so the decals I want are relatively small in size. My question is this, if I sprayed the sheet with a varnish and let that dry would that seal the decal and prevent it falling apart, or will it just seal the decal to the sheet and when I cut it out and put it in water will nothing happen? I suppose the thing to do is try it on one of the larger decals I do not want to use, but thought I would see if anyone has any advice before I tried, especially if the advice is "it doesn't work"! Thanks in advance, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I can't say it won't work 'cause I've not tried it but what does work very well for dodgy decals is Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Does just what it say on the bottle & easy to use. I recommend it as a happy user. Steve. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RODH2 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I haven't had any luck varnishing a sheet, it does seem to seal everything, as you say. I am about to try 'Microscale' liquid decal film - brushed on the individual decal, it "should" work as claimed! Edit - What Steve says!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murfv Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have used Klear (6+ coats brushed on) in the past on old decals that are liable to shatter with some success but the best product that I have used with old decals is Liquid Decal Film from Microscale, (one coat brushed on, wait 15/20 minutes and trim each decal before use) is usually enough to prevent the disintergration of old decals upon contact with water. I have not tried straight varnish(enamel or acrylic) so I don't know how well it will work, maybe some one else can shed some light on how that would work. As you say you have some spares that you can practice on, give it a go and let us know how you get on. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erewhon1872 Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 looks like the consensus is "Microscale Liquid Decal Film" and with Telford coming up gives me something to look for on the Traders stands! I have to gloss anyway so will try the varnish on a decal that is cream crackered but I don't need to see if it works, will give it a go and post the result here. Thanks for the replies and the tip on the Microscale product, much appreciated. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Yes, another vote from me for Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Managed to salvage a few decals from vintage kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 If the decal is just chancy varnish or a few coats of Klear will help. If the decal shows any sign of cracks it'll need too many coats of varnish to save it. One or two thin coats of Liquid Decal Film will save it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansReggelsen Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Many years ago I had a similar problem with som Tamiya decals for an Alfa Romeo. Broke up in water. So I sprayed it with Citadel Clear Warnish, and it solved the problem. Haven't tried it recently though - I believe they've changed the formular? Cheers Hans J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erewhon1872 Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Many years ago I had a similar problem with som Tamiya decals for an Alfa Romeo. Broke up in water. So I sprayed it with Citadel Clear Warnish, and it solved the problem. Haven't tried it recently though - I believe they've changed the formular? Cheers Hans J many thanks to Hans and all those who replied, I will try to get hold of the liquid decal film and give that a go. Thanks again, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have used Klear (6+ coats brushed on) in the past on old decals that are liable to shatter with some success but the best product that I have used with old decals is Liquid Decal Film from Microscale, (one coat brushed on, wait 15/20 minutes and trim each decal before use) is usually enough to prevent the disintergration of old decals upon contact with water. I have not tried straight varnish(enamel or acrylic) so I don't know how well it will work, maybe some one else can shed some light on how that would work. As you say you have some spares that you can practice on, give it a go and let us know how you get on. Cheers Klear can be a problem if it creeps onto the backing sheet, effectiveley sealing forever the decal onto the sheet from both sides. I'd definitely go for a non water based varnish as suggested elsewhere in this thread. That will be less viscous. Another product suggestion if Microscale is hard to find is turps based artists gloss varnish by Rowney Daler (but not the Winsor & Newton one - that is water based). You'll get that in W H Smiths and the rest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erewhon1872 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 I tried the Liquid Decal Film from Microscale and it did not work. It put a film over the decal but seems to have welded the decal to the backing sheet, to the extent that soaking the decal for half an hour will not budge it. There is mention of 15 minutes on the side of the bottle so are you supposed to leave it for that time and then wet it, perhaps it sets solid after that length of time? Anyway it was an experiment that failed, I just don't know what it failed? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) I'm not sure there is a magic length of time, iirc, it says 20 minutes on the bottle or maybe I read that on the microscale site, I know that I've painted it onto a series of decals on a sheet & by the time I got to the last one, probably closer to an hour, no probs though. Even if there were cracks in your decals thru to the sheet it should still lift off OK, its recommended for self made artwork, paint the MLDF on a clear bit of decal sheet, paint your design on top & presto, a decal good to go, so the decal film touching the sheet should be not worries unless somehow the release film on your sheet is stuffed. With out know what decals your trying to use these on, I'm at a loss to know what to suggest, have you tried this with some warm approaching hot water, I keep my water topped up from a small thermos when I'm decalling Steve. Edited November 25, 2015 by stevehnz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learstang Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I use Testors Metalizer Sealer on not just old decals, but any decals I think look a bit fragile. Works a treat (if you can find it - I'm not certain it's still available)! Regards, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I tried Liquid Decal Film from Microscale yesterday when one decal broke up. After leaving 20 minutes post applying the solution the rest of the decals went onto the model intact. Apart from one and I'm very certain it was because I didn't apply enough decal film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erewhon1872 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 what is the effect of brushing the Liquid Decal Film on and leaving it more than the 20 minutes? I did that assuming the 20 minutes was not some sort of time limit and then has to be used instruction and the result seems to be that the decal is now sealed to the sheet and will not come off no matter how long I soak it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 From my experience in the last couple of days, the problem is with your decal sheet which may explain your problems to begin with. ??? I've just built a Desert Airforce Tomahawk & rather than try to neatly paint the green patch for the serial number ( they painted around this when they over painted the Dark Green with Middlestone), I painted a small rectangle of Decal film onto an unused patch of the decal sheet, Hobbyboss in this case & then a bit later painted some Dark green onto it. I didn't use it till the next day & it worked a charm, just like a regular decal. I rather think the 20 minutes bit is a minimum time, not maximum. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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