WWII Mercedes fire truck (1/72 resin kit)

[Roy vd M.]

For my Dornier-diorama (see here for the build report of the Dornier) I recently purchased a number of vehicles. Yesterday I started work on the first, the Mercedes-Benz L1500 fire truck by Fan Kit Models.

No instructions were provided, but fortunately on the kit maker's website there are several pictures of the model (otherwise I wouldn't have known how to build it). Yesterday I found out that this is a pre-1940 model (very rare) so that the diorama can be set in 1939 after all.

Impressive box art:

1. 'Pushing-cutting' the resin can be done the standard way, with a knife...

2. ... but as soon as filing or sanding has to be performed, the toxicity of resin must be taken into account. The dust particles must not be breathed in, resin is one of the most dangerous substances a modeller may have to deal with. Usually, the following solutions are mentioned: wear a dust mask (which can't prevent the dust particles from flying around in the room), working on the resin underneath the water tap or in another room, or to work in the open air. I'd like to add the so-called steel saucepan-technique to those: fill a saucepan with water and work on the model underwater. Not too hot, otherwise the resin may warp. The pan handle can be used to put knife, saw and file on.

3. Filing the windows straight and neat takes quite a bit of time, but I happily give that for a nice result.

4. After careful filing, the undersides of the windows now run straight.

5. Resin casting blocks are often easily breakable from the model; this typically provides a nicer result than cutting and sanding. However, it is also sometimes risky...

But reparation will fortunately be quite simple.

6. What an amazing model! Perfectly straight, something that cannot be said of all resin kits. Dryfit:

7. Inside the hangar.

Totally spent time thus far: 2 hours.

Edited November 5, 2015 by Roy vd M.

[Roy vd M.]

8. I think details are very important. Some modellers (let alone rational people) would accuse me of being idiotic for trying to reproduce the Mercedes-star in this scale, but personally I think that gives the model just that little extra cachet and credibility.

Step 1: 0,1mm. copper wire is turned around a 0,8mm. punch a few times.

9. Step 2: the spiral is cut through with a sharp knife on a ceramic tile. I now have a couple of 1,0mm. rings.

10. Step 3: three very short lengths of 0,1mm. copper wire are cut off. Here they are, left from the rings.

11. Here the copper pieces are pushed against each other. Now 'only' glueing awaits me

12. Step 4: the ends of the ring are being glued onto each other and then gripped into an arterie clamp... then a molecule of Gator Glue is applied to the top and one of the pieces of copper wire is hung onto it. Here I make use of the 'tackiness' of Gator Glue (not to be confused with Gator's Grip glue, often mistakenly called Gator Glue).

13. Dry well, test carefully if the ring and copper wire piece are well attached. Then, add the second bit.

14. And that's when it went wrong. I had just made the picture, wanted to take away the bit of dust (see top of ring) and then the copper piece moved. Then I pressurized too much, causing the ring to break. Well, I now now that this will eventually work and I'll simply try again. The next picture shows the size of the star-ring (of course without the star itself).

Seems scale-worthy to me:

(Copyright unknown, click here for link to original picture; educational purposes only, picture will be deleted upon first request)

By the way, the last picture clearly shows that the 1:1 Mercedes had 21 cooling ribs each side, the so-called louvres. I'm almost sure the designers of this kit have given this a thought when they gave the model 11 cooling ribs... because if every rib is sawn in half with a micro saw you get 21 cooling ribs. Brilliant! A precise job, but I'll give it a go. More talk about several add-ons and detailing on this model in another update.

Spent time thus far: 3 hours.

[Roy vd M.]

15. Rather than 3 pieces of copper to make the middle part of the star, I now decided to bend one part and to add only one other.

16. I now use Tamiya tape to keep the pieces in place. this works better than the 'hang-methode'. The molecules of Gator Glue are added to the topside of the star. The glue is powerful even in minimal quantities. As soon as everything is set and hardened, the emblem is turned over and the other side is glued.

17. Here the star bits are in. This result takes a couple of hours to get, but most time is in waiting (3x 1,5 hours).

18. Finally ready! An ode to Gator Glue

19. This is how it will be:

And as things happen... a few seconds after taking that last photo, the star reached for heaven, never to return and never to be found again. Ah it wasn't perfect anyway... I'll make a new one.

Total spent hours: 4.

[Roy vd M.]

20. The only work done after my previous post, is further cleaning of the body with file, knife and sanding stick. Still it's worthwhile taking a look at the next picture:

Within the green circle resin-dust particles can be seen. They are so thin they resemble a patch of oil. I can only imagine that the human body won't be able to handle that stuff moving into pores. Visual warning... again, please be careful handling resin.

21. Just now finally my Mercedes refueller arrived per mail. To my surprise, a couple of PE stars were included, but I won't be able to use them because the open areas between the star parts have not ben fully etched away. Rational decision of Mac Distribution, but a bit unfortunate for my build. As said, I'll make a new star. Unless I'll be able to drill away the superfluous PE material... have to give that a thought or two.

Total spent hours: 5.

[Graham Boak]

Whilst reading/participating in several threads on the subject over the years, I was quite emphatically told that resin dust is not toxic, nor one of the most dangerous substances a modeller can deal with. The solvents are far more dangerous, and actually appear in lists of hazardous chemicals whereas the resins we use do not. It remains something that should not be breathed in, much as coal dust or stone dust should not be breathed in, but this is because of the physical effects on the lungs not toxic biochemistry.

I am not a specialist in the subject, so if evidence to the contrary can be presented then by all means do so.

[Roy vd M.]

First of all, thank you for checking out my topic and being the first to reply; much appreciated

To clarify, in my warning I only reproduce what several sources warn about. Books, articles, forum posts, resin kit instructions... I am no expert in the field, so it could be true what you say. The way I have always understood it is that the resin particles are so extraordinarily small (much smaller than plastic sanding dust for example) that they can be 'breathed in' through the pores of a human body, eventually leading to illnesses. Not sure if that is correct. Second thing I understand is that if resin dust is breathed in, the particles are more easily than other types of particles distributed through the body. That seems more logic and that's what I've always believed to be true.

Whether it's 'toxic' or not I don't know. The fact that so many people have warned about resin doesn't mean it's true but I prefer to take precautions just in case it IS true. Personally I'd prefer to see evidence of the non-hazardous of resin. Only after such hard evidence is found, will I stop using those precautions. It's a different approach. Of course each his or her own way of behaving in these matters...

Again, thanks for your opinion.

Edited November 4, 2015 by Roy vd M.

[Roy vd M.]

22. Unfortunately the bumper is dented. Little bits were brittled off and only by means of using extensive filling / filing could I try to fix this. I'll do this a simpler way by using a piece of Evergreen rod.

23. The number of side louvres had to be increased (11 -> 21). First I tried to cut each in half each resin louvre. Summarized, this didn't work out well. Forgot to take a picture, unfortunately.

Next I tried to effectuate this with strips of brass. Unfortunately I wasn't able to make identical lengths (although I used only one template) whereas sanding is no option with 0,003 cm. thick brass (=thinner than paper). I'll show small pictures without comment, for those interested.

23a.
23b.
23c.

24. Third idea... I decided to use the principle of a harmonica: One strip of brass folded zzzzz-wise (to generate raised detail). 0,58mm., then fold, 0,23mm. fold the other way, 0,58mm. fold the other way, etc. etc. This was a very very tough job. Imagine making 42 folds within a length of 0,81cm. The large photo etch folder needed to be dusted off; this could be installed in such way that the brass stip were to be clamped, but the part to be folded weren't. See pictures 24h and 24i hereunder to see what I mean.

Each pair of folds required so many sub-acts that I wasn't really looking forward to describing them all. After about 2,5 hours of folding (including several reparations) I was almost halfway one side. Because of weakened brass (my fault) the finished bit broke off. That was a bummer... but mourning time was limited. I studied the results on the Mercedes and came to the conclusion that also this third method didn't provide the desired result. Again I'll show a few pictures chronologically depicting the folding process of a single louvre (first picture shows cutting of the strip):

24a.
24b.
24c.
24d.
24e.
24f.
24g.
24h.
24i.
24j.
24k.

25. After the unfortunate breaking accident (looking back, it's only for the better!) this was the result (don't mind the shadowing, do mind the unequal width of the louvres safe the one to the far right):

26. It's just not quite right.



27. A full 5 hours later, after all that testing and folding, suddenly I thought: why not just carve the louvres into the brass with a sharp knife? They will show themselves as raised detail on the other side...

After 3 minutes, this was the result (bottom: the carving, top: the previous folding):



28. Indeed: much easier, much more secure and much better looking. Second (very rough) test: apply two pieces of tape and carve in between them. Next, cut out the louvres just outside the taped surface:

It's mainly a matter of positioning well (but I drew something for that purpose in Photoshop) and utilizing the right amount of pressure while carving. As can be seen, on picture 27 the exersized pressure was greater than on picture 28.

For me the euphoria re. the finding of a simple solution prevails over any negative thoughts re. waisted time. Fourth time's the charm!

Total spent hours: 10.

[phildagreek]

Wow!

[ejboyd5]

"A full 5 hours later, after all that testing and folding, suddenly I thought: why not just carve the louvres into the brass with a sharp knife? They will show themselves as raised detail on the other side."

Sorry to say, but that was my first thought when I saw what you were trying to accomplish. The Mercedes Star however is a whole other topic entirely - great job on a very small detail.

[Roy vd M.]

@Phil: thanks!

@Ejboyd5: you're absolutely right and it's a bit silly looking back. The only positive thing deriving from it is that it was a good lesson for me. And it's to the reader's entertainment of course. I like to always show and describe my mistakes and 'mistakes', unlike authors in modelling magazines who -judging their articles- don't make those mistakes

Thanks re. the Mercedes emblem. I hope to give it a new try soon.

Right now I'm completely lost as to what way the diorama should head. Update to be expected in the Dornier-topic.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

[Roy vd M.]

Sgt. Squarehead, thanks for following this thread. I'm going to name it "attempts", so don't empty that bowl of popcorn too soon

29. Technique #4: carving.

Explanation picture:

Arrow 1: plastic Evergreen square. I push this strongly against the brass strip beneath it.

Arrow 2: a piece of plastic Evergreen stip, sanded to 0,38mm. thickness.

Arrow 3: brass strip.

Arrow 4: end of the brass strip: here I'll carve.

I press the square at arrow 1 strongly against the brass strip. Then I'll remove the plastic at arrow 2. Next I'll move the brass strip, by using a knife at arrow 3, to the right until the Evergreen square touches the photo etch bender. Finally I use a sharp knife to carve threefold, back to forth.

30. The result:

1) Carves were a bit too deep, a small piece was broken off (on the picture it is seen resting on my finter).

2) Bottom of carvings doesn't look exactly right.

3) Because of the increased force on the carvings to the front, the louvres assembly looks like a trapezium.

4) Plastic #2-bit was a bit too thick.

31. So I thinned the plastic bit a bit and rather than a knife I used a PE folding knife. With that I carved back and forth 5 times. This solved the above-mentioned problems. Technique #5 seems to work!

32. Happy with the result!

33. Straightened.

34. The difference.

35. Fixed (combination of Gator Glue and thin CA).

36. Before tackling the other side, I wanted to do one final test: priming (after emphasizing the carves by means of a knife).

First a thin layer of primer:

37. After the second thin layer. What I had feared, is true: the carves are too narrow. I'll have to think of something else (already have an idea).

Total spent hours: 13.

[Roy vd M.]

Dogged does it!!!

From 11 to 21 louvres; this is what it used to look like:

[Roy vd M.]

38. Sixth time lucky: same method as described under paragraphs 29-35, two exceptions. The first: instead of using 0,0025cm. thick brass sheet I now used 0,0051. Second: after using a folding knife now I use a fine micro saw.

39. The result: between the louvres there are now real gaps rather than mere carvings.

40. The next picture shows some glue residu on the left side of the louvres. They can be removed using a sharp knife.

41. Unfortunately while attempting that the row of louvres broke in two halves. The second half could be placed back but the cut line is visible. I can justify that through the illusion that one louvre was bent, e.g. because at one point in time the louvre fell down (or: was slammed down) against an ignition wrench or so.

42. I am happy with the results.

Total of spent hours: 15.

[imster]

Wow! crazy amount of detail work mate! Its looking good keep at it!

[Roy vd M.]

Thanks Imster, much appreciated!

43. Still not satisfied; method no. 7:

44. Too thick.

45. Method 8 (by then it has turned 5 'o' clock in the night): 2mm. masking tape.

46. That looks nice. But maybe not enough raised detail.

47. Method 9: using 2mm. and 0,5mm. tape alternately; this could be it.

I realize that this is the most boring thread on this forum. Hope I'll do better next time

Total hours spent: 20.

[Roy vd M.]

48. Two options:

#1: maybe a bit too flat, but clearly distinguishable louvres (picture: top).

#2: for sure not too thick, but louvres not very pronounced (picture: bottom).

49. I applied a drybrush and it looks like this solved the problem of badly visible raised detail.

Total spent time: 21 hours.

[Roy vd M.]

50. I'll show the technique for those who want to try this on scale 1/48 or so, which should work fine... but for 1/72 it's too thick.

Good exercise in patience...

50a.

50b.

50c.

50d.

I'll go try something else

Number of spent hours: 22.

[Roy vd M.]

51. Method 10: press with a small folding knife into the brass strip, while the cutting mat is beneath it. This will be pressed a bit, but proved to be too rigid.

52. Method 11: Lego can be built into anything. The pieces of brass clamped under the white and yellow bricks provide a thin gap between those stones, so that the folding knife can be 'guillotined' in between them. On top of the white and yellow bricks small ends of sanding paper were sticked. This method could work, but before I could do elaborate tests I thought of the actions of 'method 12'. The results with #11 thus far were a bit sharp and rough.

53. *Drumroll.....*

Method 12. And yes, twelfth time lucky!!

Step 1: use a rivet wheel, 0.55mm, almost diagonally upon a brass plate / strip. The more angled the course of the rivet wheel, the closer the louvres will be to one another (here they should have a width of 0,38mm.).

Step 2: turn over the brass plate and put it on a piece of sturdy foam, like the one found underneath a roller tool. This way, the rivets are in a raised position. Place a folding knife against the utmost rivet, see if the folding line runs perfectly parallel, and push the folding knife downward into the foam. Do this 21 times.

Stap 3: after folding:

Stap 4: flatten using that same folding knife:

Stap 5: having grabbed the rolling tool, it's an easy step to straighten the strip of louvres by using a roller. Or you could use a knife holder or so.

Stap 6: once all louvres are folded and the last has been cut, slightly carve into it horizontally by using a sharp knife (alternatively: stick some tape) at 3,61mm.

Stap 7: with a photo etch scissors (not used for years, it's better to cut loose photo etch with a knife on a hard flat base), the strip is cut along the example line. If necessary, use a nail file to remove coarse/rough edges (should not be required). If the messing strip was broad enough and the line of rivets was made 'diagonally' across the middle, louvres can be cut off from both sides. That's the way I did it, so I'm happily ready folding now: killing two birds with one stone!

54. Here then the result... don't worry, this will be the end result because now I'm satisfied. Really!

Totally spent hours: 24.

[phildagreek]

Wow (again)

Very impressed with your patience & dedication. I would have given up a long time ago. In fact, I probably wouldn't have started.

[Roy vd M.]

Thanks Phil, unfortunately not quite ready yet (notwithstanding my promise) but almost!!

Almost there...

[Roy vd M.]

56. Further studying of the pictures (thank to the invention of photography, one of the most helpful verification items available in modelling!) I noticed (again) that the bottom detail left and right side of the louvres were set as if the louvres would form a parallellogram. Earlier I thought that this was a mistake by FanKit Models and the louvres should be positioned perfectly vertical. I thought I saw that on a pic of the real deal and my opinion was supported by the fact that FanKit Models had positioned the louvres vertically themselves (see second pic below). So that proofs to be the (for most human beings: negligible, and thus far only) mistake by FanKit in this great kit.

I can't say I'm always lucky in modelling, but here quite so: I exactly and just had enough brass space available to make a third series of louvres.

57. Compare the position of the louvres as applied by FanKit Models to the position as it should be (that way, the raised detail also is correct; and the radiator lines are followed nicely).

I understand that this topic has become highly annoying, but I sincerely promise that this is it. I'm very happy with this result and nothing more needs amending. 20 hours for two sets of louvres alone should be more than enough. Now I'll go on with the rest of this kit

(Copyright 2nd picture FanKit Models, educational purposes only)



Total number of worked hours: 25.

[A5h]

You are very very patient.... I could not do that, I would have killed someone or myself before I even got half way through.

[Roy vd M.]

Hi A5h, welcome to this topic and thanks for the remark. Yes I can be patient sometimes

In fact, in modeling I'm about as patient as I'm impatient in real life.

Edited November 22, 2015 by Roy vd M.