Cromm Cruac Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Hello again. After finishing the first part of my diorama, Ju 87 Stuka it's time to move to the other aircraft: Heinkel He 111. This particular set is from Revell (which is re-branded Hasegawa set). The set is very well made, no flashes whatsoever and so far all the parts fit perfectly. OK, here we go with the build and pictures. 1. I've pre-assembled parts of the cockpit and the wings to paint the interior parts of the plane 2. Primed and painted with Mr Hobby RLM 02 which is quite close to the color I've seen on some pictures. 3. Painted the cockpit elements like seats, rudder etc. and then drybrused them with silver paint. Also I've made the mattress for the front gunner of the model clay and painted it khaki. 4. Added some accesories: seatbelts and pedal handles made of painted masking tape. thruster handle of piece of cardboard and bit of the sprue fire extinguisher made of piece of toothpick and some wire. 5. Pin-ashed with pastel wash to make it look worn out and dirty and then sealed everything with matt varnish. Here is the finished cockpit: Hope you'll like it Edited December 16, 2015 by Cromm Cruac 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplasticsurgeon Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Like it - why YES. I've got one of these buried deep in my stash. So deep I can't get to it to see what internal detail it's got. Thanks for answering that for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noah Greggs Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 That looks very nice!!! Keep it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 I've made some progress. Here is an update 6. Engines assembled, sanded and rescribed. 7. Engines attached to the wings. 8. The fuselage halves glued together. I'm surprised again how well they fit together. There was almost no putty needed after sanding. Some Mr. Surfaces filler was sufficient. 9. Inserted the inner part with the bombs. I didn't bother to paint them as I decided to go with 2x SC1000 payload. Then glued in the bomb racks. Some putty was needed. It was sanded and rescibed after drying up. 10. Canopy masked. I'm lazy and used Eduard die-cut masks. 11. Fuselage, wings and canopies assembled together. Masked for paining and then sprayed the interior color over the canopy parts so they appear in that color from the inside. 12. Painted the whole thing with the Vallejo Primer. That's it for now. Next step: preshading. I'll try the usual way this time: preshading with an airbrush. Thanks for watching. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adt70hk Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Like it - why YES. I coudn't agree more!!! A fantastic job!!!!! I like the idea of using masking tape for material/fabric like the harnesses. I've used tissue paper for tarpaulins quite a bit but the thought of using masking tape had never occurred to me. I've not buit any aeroplanes for nearly 30 years any only got back into AFVs recently after a 25 year break but the more I see of some the planes on here the more I think I might have a go. Thank you for sharing!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radleigh Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Makes me want to build another.... Love the He-111. Looking good too btw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgiepot Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) 13. Is it the unlucky 13 or I'm doing something wrong? Yet another attempt to paint the preshading with an airbrush ended as a bit of a disaster. Well, maybe not a disaster but the bottom it's a little mess. I've tried all kind of different pressures/paint densities but I can't make it work. Either the paint doesn't flow when pressing the trigger lightly or it makes the splatters. Anyway I'll leave it like that because I'm aiming for the worn, dirty look anyway. Slightly disappointed by the results I've returned to the old, proven method and preshaded the top with dry pastels and then sealed everything with light coat of varnish. Neater, isn't it? Again, thanks for watching. Edited November 13, 2015 by Cromm Cruac 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Nice work so far but the cockpit should be painted in RLM66 not 02. thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yeah, you're right Mike. I was considering painting it dark gray but I thought that it may be too dark to my liking. Anyway it's a little too late to change that isn't it? I'd need to live with that. So, here is some more progress: 14. This time I decided to paint the top camo first so I've masked the underbelly. 15. Then prepared to paint the first camo color roughly masking areas that will be painted black green 16. Finally painted the lighter camo color. Again I decided to go for RLM80 like for my Stuka. I know, I know it should be RLM71 but I didn't like it. Thanks for watching 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I don't bother with preshading, I just add a drop of white to the base colour and do a post shade, would never of thought to use pastels to do the preshade, but it looks like it works very well L) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 17. Small update: second camo color painted 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jusjay Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 That camo looks brilliant! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Busy weekend: 18. Masked for underbelly painting 19. Underbelly airbrushed and mask removed. Next step - decals 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 It's looking good! I really like the cockpit! The 111 is one of my favourite planes, I don't know why, I think it's an ugly, evil looking plane, but I really like the early-war look. I made this a couple of years ago, and I really liked the vast array of paint schemes and decals included with it. I'm on with the Airfix 1/72 Heinkel 111 at the moment, and I'm very impressed with it. I'd say the new Airfix kit is better quality, but the paint schemes and decals are more interesting with the Revell. The Airifx has quite a detailed interior too, but sadly this is mainly obscured, and only partially visible through the top dome and side windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 20. Coated the whole model with gloss finish. I've tried Micro Gloss this time instead of Klear. 21. I've tried to put the decals on starting with the yellow belt on the tail. Unfortunately the decals are again so thick that it looked awful. I've removed it, masked the whole plane and airbrushed it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfa1983 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Paint job looks great. What's your airbrush and what kind of paint do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) The airbrush is 0.3 one that came with the compressor - it says Royalmax on the leaflet inside the box. Usually I paint with Valleyo Air (or dilluted Model) paints. This time I've used Mr Hobby for the upper camo (olive green and black green) and Vallejo for underbelly (my mix of RLM 65 + some gray and white to desaturate the color) And here is the next step: 22. Decals applied. This time Micro Set / Micro Sol combo worked almost perfectly. The decals conformed quite well but in some places I've gently pushed the decals with the sharp toothpick along the lines to make them more visible. Later sealed everything with glossy varnish (Micro Gloss again) Proceeding to my favourite part: ageing and weathering. Edited November 28, 2015 by Cromm Cruac 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer53 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Looking good, the camouflage pattern is awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Very nice work with the paint, and a great effect you have made using pre shading. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blastvader Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 This is looking rather tasty isn't it? I've got one of these in the stash with the Eduard Big Ed set that I'm not nan enough to tackle, but your fine example is making me think again. I might pick up a second whilst I'm at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Excellent work so far! That's a stunner of a 111! JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 23. Some some chipping with very fine brush. Looks quite strong but it will tone down once wash and pastel weathering is applied (I hope) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adt70hk Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Looking very nice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromm Cruac Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 24. Pin washed with pastel washes and sealed with matt varnish. Next: some dry pastel shading. Thanks for watching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now