feoffee2 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Hi Not sure if this is the right section. But anyway, I am currently working on a revell a320 which I am doing in all blacks rugby. The problem is I have airbrushed the tamiya x2 gloss black on and some parts are really glossy and others are almost matt. If I were to put in a gloss varnish or top coat would it even it out and if it need a top coat should I do it before or after decals. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 It should. I would gloss before and after the decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky coffeeboat Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 It may...I always find that the matt areas will become shinier and the gloss areas become glossier - but they both never match each other. Gloss coat before (several times) apply decals and gloss again, then decide on your final finish, and apply that. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I agree also with gloss before the decals as well as after. Particularly if some of the areas are matt which can cause silvering if decals were to be applied there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Thanks for the replies I shall gloss it and see what it looks like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurrantBunbury Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 I've had this happen with gloss white, applied from a rattle can. I thought it was just my rubbish technique, but I don't know what I did wrong. It looks OK in the end, or at least I'm happy with it, but does anyone know why it happens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 It is most likely to depend on the underlying surface. Some plastics have a smoother finish than others, (even on the same model), which can lead to a difference like that described above. This is also the same when using dissimilar materials, (brass, resin, etch, etc), in construction and also filler and body putty to fill in and/or modify. The best way around this problem is to apply an undercoat, or primer. This will 'level out' the underlying differences in material surface and allow for a homogeneous finish. Christian, exiled to africa, but today the sun is shining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Many thanks, I have just ordered some grey primer so will see if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurrantBunbury Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Thanks, Christian. This has happened in my case in spite of primer, but I'm confident that it comes down to operator error in some way. Hopefully you'll have better luck, Feoffee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Thanks, Christian. This has happened in my case in spite of primer, but I'm confident that it comes down to operator error in some way. Hopefully you'll have better luck, Feoffee. Hi CurrantBunny, Did you rub down the primer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurrantBunbury Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 No. Maybe that's the key! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I have found that to get a really good paint finish I have had to pay great attention to detail to what goes on behind the final coat. I always use a primer which gets a 'mild' rub down with Micro Mesh. Why? Because the dried finish can vary from smooth, to 'orange peel texture' to coarse all in one model! Each of these variations will have a knock on effect to the final finish. This happens for many reasons; paint drying before contacting the surface, drying too slowly on the surface, dust in the air, cats hairs, downstairs vacuuming going on, paint not mixed thoroughly before and during application, etc... So, I have found that a rub down will help to even out the general finish to a more homogeneous result. It might take two or three applications with rub downs in between. For a final flourish I will give a quick polish with a piece of very worn denim, trying to get as high a gloss as possible. Then I apply the paint scheme using the same process; application, run down, etc. until I am happy with the finish. If you are careful and not to heavy handed with the hairy, or air, stick you do not need to do too much by this stage. Only took me a couple of years to figure that out... Christian exiled to africa, with too much lateritic dust in the atmosphere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurrantBunbury Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Christian, that's really helpful. Thank you. I've got a model nearly at priming stage just now, so I'll try that technique and see how I get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) No problem! Always glad to pass on something that has been stolen or learnt the hard way! One thing I forgot to say was; do not go for too high a gloss finish with the primer as this can cause the top coat to bead. If it does, then either try a fine dusting coat of paint before laying on the top coat, or give the surface a quick once over with a green pad, (thing used for removing stubborn, baked-on food residue from pot, pans, etc... Do not remember the UK name, out here it is something up the wazzooo). This will give the top coat something to bite into. Christian exiled to a dark continent... Edited October 17, 2015 by wyverns4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Thanks this is all excellent information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 I had as similar problem trying to get a gloss coat on a car kit, the paint was drying before it hit the model. I started to use a larger needle in the airbrush both for the primer and finished coats and then purchasing another airbrush especially for priming. Have a look at Paul Budzik tutorials on youtube re; Airbrushing, picked up a lot of good tips from them especially about primer coats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Thanks I am starting to get the hang of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Housesparrow Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 When putting on a gloss coat over decals, is it best to airbrush the entire model, or just over the decals. Presumably, simply airbrushing over the area around each decal won't look as good as when airbrushing all over, or become tedious with lots of decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 It's best to put the decals onto a gloss coat to start with, then gloss over after if you are doing say panel washes. I tend to do the whole model again as it keeps the top coat uniform, then do any panel washes, then a final coat of what ever your final finish will be, gloss/satin/matt. If you are doing weathering it tends to be easier on a matt/satin coat as opposed to a gloss coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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