Jump to content

Eduard Bf-109G Royal Class build - 1/48


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,


This will be only my second WIP build thread as I've only just returned to the Hobby this year after about 25 years of absence (my teens being the last time I did anything). It's a fantastic kit with some very cool extras listed below. I'm very keen to make the best of it and hope my ability (or lack of) doesn't cause too many tears.


Royal Class edition of the new tool scale plastic kit of Bf 109G in 1/48 scale.


r0009.jpg



r0009_00.jpg



Box contains:


plastic and photo-etched parts and for two complete models of Bf 109G in variants G-2, G-4, G-6 and G-14 (premiere release of parts for variants G-2, G-4, G-14)

Cartograf printed decals for 16 colorful markings

a piece of the real Bf 109G-14 mounted on wooden block with certificate of authenticity

Eduard "Gustav" designed Beer glass

Brassin set of Bf 109G-6 wheels (2 pairs)

Brassin set of Bf 109G cannon pods

Brassin set of Bf 109G W.Gr.21 rockets

Fabric seatbelts


Marking options:


Bf 109G-2, flown by Maj. Hannes Trautloft, CO of JG 54, Eastern Front, summer, 1942

Bf 109G-2 trop, Flown by Oblt. Werner Schroer, CO of 8./JG 27, Rhodes, early November, 1942

Bf 109G-2 trop, Flown by Maj. Heinz Bär, CO of I./JG 77, Comiso airfield, Italy, September, 1942

Bf 109G-2 trop, W.Nr. 10 501, Stab/JG 77, Bir el Abd airfield, North Africa, early November, 1942

Bf 109G-4, W.Nr. 19 257, Flown by Fw. Viktor Petermann, 5./JG 52, South Part of the Eastern Front, June, 1943

Bf 109G-4, W.Nr. 19 347, Flown by Fw. Jan Reznak, 13. (Slowaken)/JG 52, Anapa airfield, Soviet Union, April / May, 1943

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 20 499, Flown by Lt. Erich Hartmann, CO of 9./JG 52, Nove Zaporozhye, October, 1943

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 15 909, Flown by Hptm. Gerhard Barkhorn, CO of II./JG 52, Eastern Front, September, 1943

Bf 109G-6, Flown by Oblt. Kurt Gabler, 8./JG 300, Jüterbog – Waldlager Air Base, Germany, July, 1944

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 163162, 2a Squadriglia, 2o Gruppo Caccia, Verona-Villafranca airfield, Italy, October, 1944

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 165267, 1/HleLv 34, Taipalsaari airfield, July, 1944

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 95 417, Flown by Lt. Pál Bélavári, 101/3. vadászszázad, Veszprém Air Base, Hungary, August, 1944

Bf 109G-6, Flown by Lt. Baciu Dumitru, Grupul 1 Vânănatoare, early May, 1945

Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 163815, Fliegerkompagnie 7, Flugwaffe, Interlaken Air Base, June, 1945

Bf 109G-14, W.Nr. 464534, 19./EJG 2, Pilsen airfield, May, 1945

Bf 109G-14, W.Nr. 781308, Flown by Lt. Hans-Helmut Linck, 10./JG 4, Alteno airfield, Germany, September 11, 1944



I intent to build this aircraft in the following scheme: Bf 109G-6, W.Nr. 165267, 1/HleLv 34, Taipalsaari airfield, July, 1944


Eino Luukkanen was in the cockpit of this airplane while achieving his 56th confirmed victory. He downed a Soviet Yak-9 fighter flown by Lt. G. F. Nizhnik on August 5, 1944 over Narva Bay. This Yak was the only aircraft downed by the guns of MT-451. The aircraft was delivered to Finland on June 23, 1943. The former German Werk Nummer is visible on the rudder. Two underwing cannon pods were mounted and there was no artwork on the rudder at that time. The fledgling eagle was painted later on. MT-451 was written off after an accident on August 25, 1947.



r0009-k.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now onto the build.


The first thing I did was cut the parts off the spru and start folding the photo etch. This is my first attempt ever of folding the stuff and, Holy Moly, is it ever fiddly! :o


What I'm working with....note the size of the CD I'm cutting it out on compared to the pieces! :blink:


photo%20etch%203_zpsw7qn0bdx.jpg



Before


photo%20etch%201_zpsxpvrrewv.jpg


After


photo%20etch%202_zpsvgekxa5m.jpg



Rudder pedal......little bugger ;)



etch%20rudder%20pedal_zpssxxmagt7.jpg




Tub without paint



cockpit%20tub%20no%20paint_zpsi8j9igfa.j



Tub painted with Mr Hobby H416 RLM66 Black Grey. That's all for now. More photo etch to place and brush painting next.

Thanks for following the build :thanks:


cockpit%20tub%20paint_zps3cehivuh.jpg

Edited by Homerlovesbeer
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm following this one too!! One of my favourite kits and I also have a soft spot for Finnish things... Apart from a certain F1 driver. Raikkonen, you cheating little.... You robbed Bottas of a podium! Grrrrr... :fight:

Anyway, looking forward to this one getting 'Finished' ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm following this one too!! One of my favourite kits and I also have a soft spot for Finnish things... Apart from a certain F1 driver. Raikkonen, you cheating little.... You robbed Bottas of a podium! Grrrrr... :fight:

Anyway, looking forward to this one getting 'Finished' ;)

Hehe nice pun! Kimi had a brain fart didn't he!

Thanks for following :thumbsup2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,


A very quiet week from me as I was away for a few days on work. I managed to apply all the photo etch to the cockpit. What an absolute pain in the you know what! :chair: The stuff is so small and fiddly, and TIME CONSUMING to apply. Quite a number of times a small piece would manage to find its way onto the floor with the result being myself crawling around using my phone as a torch trying to locate the offending piece. :yikes:



I have got to either find a better way of applying these little pieces correctly rotated and perfectly located within 5 seconds or use something other than Zap a Gap CA glue to apply it. Currently I'm using the UMP Photo etch placer however it doesn't always pick up and stick to the part (yes I've sharpened it to expose more of the wax) and when it does grab the part it's very difficult to place the part onto the model and then adjust the part before the CA sets.


I am currently applying CA glue onto a cocktail stick and then applying it to the part but sometimes the CA goes off before I can then pick up the part and place it in the correct place. It's like I'm short a hand and I need 3 of them. One to open the bottle of CA glue and then apply to the cocktail stick, the second to hold the cocktail stick and a third to hold the part ready to receive the glue. :hypnotised:


So unfortunately a couple of my photo etch parts are not 100% square which does really bug me however I couldn't finish getting them correctly located before the glue set :doh:


I've got to find a better way as I've lots of photo etch left to do.....



Now onto the little work that I've managed to do. I have painted all the parts I can see that require RLM 02 Gray using Mr Hobby H70 paint (such a lovely paint to use) and have started assembly of the wheel wells and cut the wings out. I've also drilled out the underneath of the wings ready for the wing mounted cannons.



It's not a big update however the photo etch session took a few hours and the cleaning up of parts with painting another couple.


Thanks guys for your interest :thanks::)



Wheel well painting commenced


wheel%20wells_zpsjzzb71hh.jpg



Parts painted on the spru ready for assembly


spru%20paint%202_zpshyqjlv07.jpg



spru%20paint%201_zps2woxdwhk.jpg



Photo etch instrument panel completed after many "DOHS" as parts flew off desk, glue started drying before parts correctly aligned etc etc. :doh:



instruments_zpsvzva2e22.jpg



Photo etch completed on side walls and radios beside the seat, chain pulley assemblies done


3%20parts_zpsgcqyibdu.jpg




Till next time, when I'll have detailed the pit and applied a wash etc. Thanks guys! :thumbsup2:

Edited by Homerlovesbeer
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great job with those PE, Homer!! :clap:

PE bits can be a real PITA sometimes, here's what I usually do: to pick them up, I use a toothpick with a bit of Blue Tack on one end; if the PE piece is large enough, I use CA gel glue (gives you a bit more of time to play around) to stick it in place. I normally lay some CA on a glass surface or a piece of alu tape, and pick up with a very sharp toothpick; this way you have some available for more time, without having to continuously open and close the CA bottle.

When it comes to very small pieces, I prefer to use PVA glue: that gives you a lot of time to play around; after it has settled a bit, I secure the PE in place either with CA (very sparingly, along the edges) or with Tamiya Green cap (again, very sparingly and along the edges). HTH

Ciao

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well guys, some bad news. I'm been an absolute idiot and have mistakenly been constructing the wrong fuselarge! :doh: I've been constructing the G-2/G4 fuselarge instead of the G-6 Grrr . :owww::fraidnot: That means I'll need to do both cockpit sidewalls all over again. Oh well, after doing them before I should be able to make these a little better. :blush:

I was working on the bottom fuselarge when it should have been the top.

wrong%20fuse_zpswhbixadd.jpg

Edited by Homerlovesbeer
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well guys, some bad news. I'm been an absolute idiot and have mistakenly been constructing the wrong fuselarge! :doh: I've been constructing the G-2/G4 fuselarge instead of the G-6 Grrr . :owww::fraidnot: That means I'll need to do both cockpit sidewalls all over again. Oh well, after doing them before I should be able to make these a little better. :blush:

I was working on the bottom fuselarge when it should have been the top.

Ooops ... well, another chance to practice playing with fiddly PE bits :whistle::devil:

I'm sure it'll turn out great. Keep it up

Ciao

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...