Bob Henry Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I have a number of Eduard 1/48 WWI kits and I am going to try my hand at the rigging. Does anyone know the approximate diameter of the rigging wire on the original full sized aircraft ? I will do the math to scale it down to 1/48 size. As of now I'm thinking that I can use some fine stainless steel wire that is .006 or .008 inches in diameter but that is just a guess. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 0.006 = 0.288 inches in 48th scale. On real biplanes the wires ranged in size from about that to a bit larger, some as wide as a finger. Based solely on unscientific use of my eyes from outside the rope, of course. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I measured the the wing wires on a Tiger Moth. They were 10mm flat x approx 3mm thick. if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks guys, that's a good starting point. If anyone else has any additional thoughts, please feel free to share. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigglesof266 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) I'm treading the same path with a series of Eduard Profipack 1/48 WWI scouts. Nieuport 17, Camel, Albatross D.V & Fokker D.VII "Sieben Schwaben". My 2/- worth. Artistic licence counts here. Remember, as the eye views it, scaled down, perspective is not necessarily arithmetically proportionate. In the same way light reflects differently off smaller objects painted in the exact same colour altering the apparent shade or hue of a colour, e.g. paint sample patches in your hardware store vs a wall painted in the exact same colur being a prime example, the arithmetically (scale acccurate) thickness is less important than a thickness which serves perspective. i.e. thick enough and of a colour so as to reflect sufficient light to be visibile as it would be on the real thing, but not thin as to be tanatmount to invisible nor so thick as to more resemble the towing cable of an AFV or look like rope used to tie up an ocean liner. Remember, it is a model not a replica, and the purpose of a model is to represent the original in a way so as to provide suspension of disbelief to the viewer. My research from the experience of others an current available rigging alternatives suggest the thickness suggested suitable for 1/48, and preferable even for 1/72, of rigging line product sold under both Uschi or EZ Line branding is the most practical rigging. Rust or charcoal appear to be a preferred colour to black by experienced users as black lends itself to invisibility to the eye in fine thread due to its absorbtion rather than reflection of light. These threads offer longevity, user friendly to work with, and once fitted looks realistic to the eye despite being flat in section. Being a KISS kind of guy, this is what I'll be using. Perhaps this information may be of some use to you too? Edited September 22, 2015 by Bigglesof266 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks for the additional information. At this point in time I'm trying to process as much information as possible and then make a decision based on what material I can comfortably work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobStewart Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hi, This might help for RAFWires. I think German wires were around 4mm in diameter, ish. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26646-se-5-a-rigging-diagram/ Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 I don't want to start a big "Firestorm" with this follow up question but I'll ask it anyhow. Based on everyone's experience should I bother with the small turnbuckles on a 1/48 scale plane or is there some simple way to create the optical illusion of a turnbuckle in this scale ? I know that the 1/32 scale planes warrant an attempt at turnbuckle duplication. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 I don't bother with turnbuckles on 1/48. You could just run some glue on the end of the rigged wire to make it slightly thicker to resemble the look of a turnbuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 I don't bother with turnbuckles on 1/48. You could just run some glue on the end of the rigged wire to make it slightly thicker to resemble the look of a turnbuckle. Thanks for the input. I was leaning that way and I would probably get "Creative" and use a slightly different shade of metallic paint to paint over the simulated buckles. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMSLion Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Eduard is now making PE wires...with turnbuckles. At least something approximating a turnbuckle. I'm planning on using them on my next kit. FWIW, I prefer to rig with actual wire. Yes, it's a PITA to work with in some ways...but it makes a kit much stronger. WNW kits, in particular, need that extra strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Dyck Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Gaspatchmodels have a lot different types of turnbuckles! The standart rigging from Uschi van der Rosten works very well. ( elastic stripes). I used it on my SG -38 glider that you can See in one of my topics. All the best Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks Andy. I plan on getting some wire in a few days from a specific vendor. Our local club is having our big annual IPMS show. It is called the "Old Dominion Open". I will be working the registration table all morning but hopefully I can break away to do some shopping. Bob H. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Hi, I am almost at the point of 'completing' (or at least regarding it as completed) an old Airfix Hannover CLIIIa (1:72), and I had a go at rigging it - my first ever such attempt. It turned out better than I expected. I managed to get hold of some EZ-Line and 'fast acting' CA glue. It was a bit fiddly to start with, but I found a technique which worked whereby I cut a length of EZLine to about 90% of the desired length, so that a small amount of stretching was required to fit to the wing. I found the glue slightly less fast-acting than I was led to believe, but eventually I managed to get it done by just holding the end of the line in place for about a minute. I don't know if it's exactly to scale, but using the '2 foot' rule beloved of railway modellers I am very pleased with how it turned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigglesof266 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I found the glue slightly less fast-acting than I was led to believe Try Pacer ZAP pink Clive. Absolutely THE best thin available. Even unopened, CA has a 'best before' shelf life. Make sure it's a fresh batch which has been A. stored properly in the store pre purchase, and from a source which turns over volume so it hasn't been marking time in a fridge out the back or on the shelf/under the counter. In the case of CA where the curing is anaerobic, less is more. Pink will bond and cure any ungapped joint quite literally within the 5 seconds claimed when fresh. 10-15 seconds holding the Ezi-Line to strut or wing facings mated together should see it cured to withstand rigging tension without application of Kicker. Awesome stuff. Used a lot of brands over the years, and some are quite good. But ZAP is consistently exceptional. I won't use any other brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I read an article in which the modeller used nylon strands from a DIY type paintbrush, which seemed like a good idea presuming you don't need any really long distances, extremely fine and would work out cheap as chips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 I love the fact that this topic is still generating responses. Maybe I'm not the only one who has been trying to sort out this rigging dilemma. Hopefully it will motivate more of us to give the WWI aircraft a try. Bob H. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I just finished this the other day. I rigged it with stretched polythene sprue, taken from some Airfix 1/76 figures. It has a mild amount of stretch, just enough to pull tight. The wing fore wires were all done with one long piece, as were the wing aft wires Favourite supeglues are the 'Rocket' brand. PS; The stripe decals for this don't match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 It looks pretty good to me. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britman Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I have been struggling to get a reliable super glue for some time and it has rather spoiled my enthusiasm for rigging. However I have just steamed through my WNW postwar Ninak and all thanks to my wife's nail repair glue! I use fishing line and have been getting 98% first time adhesion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 That will work. Thanks for looking in. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
le wombat agile Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Usually I use the elastic thread like this one ad is available in ifferent diameters http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Henry Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Thanks for the additional input. Bob H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear Paw Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I have been struggling to get a reliable super glue for some time and it has rather spoiled my enthusiasm for rigging. However I have just steamed through my WNW postwar Ninak and all thanks to my wife's nail repair glue! I use fishing line and have been getting 98% first time adhesion. Hi, that is good but does that not prove to be problematic when you handle your model? I can be a bit hamfisted and have been known to break rigging, the elastic eez line saves me from that. I find it easier to rig with it too. I have to use normal polystyrene cement to glue my eez line as I can not use any kind of super glue. It works fine just takes longer to dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britman Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I think we all catch a line now and again but what I do like about fishing line is that I can adjust the tension with my little cooking blowtorch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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