Simon Cornes Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 As I am about to embark on some rather interesting 1/32nd projects I wondered if anyone could advise on best practice for rigging in this scale? Lots of photo reference is high up my list but actual attachment of rigging wires is a perpetual question I should think. Early 20's airframes owe more to WWI wheras late 30's are pretty streamlined. My isue is with attaching rigging and rigging material. John Adam's lycra is great in 1/72nd so I think I am going to use Prym elastic I think and I note that WNW do a form of rigging which I believe may be oval in section for rafwires. Also ia m not 100% convinced about Gas Patch turnbucklesa nd RB look a little agricultural, being PE. WNW suggest use of paint only for end fixings, which may be okay for WWI subjects but I would be very intereted to see photos of finished airframes and details of what fittings have been used. Many thanks Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 A member of my local IPMS branch sent for the WNW rigging wire and it turned out to be the same material as Johns lycra though a different colour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy wood Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Elasticated lycra thread, gaspatch turnbuckles, and brass tubing. Work everytime! If I did the below again I would use their 1/48 scale turnbuckles instead of 1/32 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 +1 for Gaspatch turnbuckles - fabulous stuff, much better than etched ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks everyone, especially Andy for your photo. Very interesting you suggest using 1/48th turnbuckles instead of 1/32nd though, 'smaller' always looks better than overscale IMHO. Did you use the anchor points for the underside attachments with rigging wire through and then into the tube? Thanks Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louiex2 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Here's a good "How To" from Doogs Modeling website: http://doogsmodels.com/2011/06/17/wingnut-wings-sopwith-pup-build-report-6-into-the-rigging/ This site has a lot of interesting builds, tips and blogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Andy, There has been a suggestion that the 1/48th GP bits tend not to have holes in the ends where the rigging material or mounting brackets. Any thoughts about that? Many thanks Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 In my experience there were a couple of buckles with clogged holes - nothing that a thin drill cannot fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Lots of ways to do things. Research is as important as sourcing. How the diff aircraft manufacturer's rigged their planes is as diff as the manufacturer's themselves. Lots of info on WW1 aircraft on modeling sites like LSP , and Large Scale Modeler. I have used Gaspatch , RB Productions , and WNW's flat rigging supplied material. Combine to suit , I also used nichrome wire and brass wire as well. Stay far away from P/E flat or otherwise rigging, it is extreeemely problematic. Also a jig may be helpful depending on how adept , or inept , you are at rigging: Edited September 17, 2015 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Where does one get large-ish scale turnbuckles? I think I'd like to use them on my 1/28 kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Thanks for the further input guys, krow113, is that a commercial jig? I have seen Uncle John's beautiful brass affair but not a laser cut plywood one before!! And in answer to Black Knight's question I think we might suggest Gas Patch's website maybe for 1/32nd as a good approximate? Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/wooden-stand-building-painting-and-transporting-models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy wood Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks everyone, especially Andy for your photo. Very interesting you suggest using 1/48th turnbuckles instead of 1/32nd though, 'smaller' always looks better than overscale IMHO. Did you use the anchor points for the underside attachments with rigging wire through and then into the tube? Thanks Simon Simon The turnbuckles had an attachment spigot that fitted into a pre-drilled hole. The elastic thread was threaded through the brass tube (which should be a lot shorter than is displayed on my model), through the turnbuckle eye, and then back up the tube. With the turnbuckle in position, I then pulled the loose end of the thread taught, added a bit of superglue, then trimmed the thread whilst still pulled taught. 'PING!' the remaining thread will spring back into the tube leaving a neat finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks for that Andy, Thought it would be something like that and I think I may get hold of some precut tubing to be consistent! In my firts posting I mentioned getting some Prym thread. It turned up today and, blow me, its exactly the same as John A's !! Same spool, end papers but a different brand name! I am now thinking it may be to lightweight for 1/32nd! Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) http://www.umm-usa.com/ ...for the jig... And do the research , many planes and different nations rigged with diff hardware and wire types. German planes had turnbuckles on the lower wing only, etc... ...some more links... http://www.uschivdr.com/ http://www.wwi-models.org/ http://www.vintagewings.ca/Home/tabid/40/language/en-CA/Default.aspx http://www.wwishop.com/ Edited September 18, 2015 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy wood Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 http://www.umm-usa.com/ ...for the jig... And do the research , many planes and different nations rigged with diff hardware and wire types. German planes had turnbuckles on the lower wing only, etc... ...some more links... http://www.uschivdr.com/ http://www.wwi-models.org/ http://www.vintagewings.ca/Home/tabid/40/language/en-CA/Default.aspx http://www.wwishop.com/ You are absolutely correct about German rigging, but you still need to use the brass tubing, or something similar, which covered the swaged ends of the rigging wire. They are a little too big on my Pfalz, and should really be half the length that I have portrayed. British rigging terminals are a totally different affair and it bugs me to see wonderful models of such subjects fitted with normal turnbuckles. Then again, if things like that annoy me I need to wake up, smell the coffee, get a reality check and get a life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 I'm now a bit further down the line in my understanding of what is required but I have a couple more questions. Firstly, Albion Alloy brass and nickel silver 0.5mm tube is often recommended but is the aluminium version - same 0.5mm and 0.3mm internal diameter - any good? Maybe it is too fragile? Secondly, I was also wondering what would be a good source for the 0.15mm wire which is used to make the loops at either end of a turnbuckle? I am dubious that copper multistrand electrical wire would be up to it but maybe it is? I have seen 'Ultra wire' referred to but I'm not sure who stocks that? I hope someone can shed more light please? !! Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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