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Meng A7V 1/35


Chris B

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Finally got round to starting this a couple of days ago.

Initial thoughts are that it's not as easy a build as a Tamiya 'shake the box' and needs some care to align parts, some of the location points being a bit 'iffy'.

I've diverted from the instructions in a couple of places which I'll mention with the pics below

Started with the suspension units - no particular problems but given that there are differences between the 3 pairs I competed types A, B and C in turn and stuck a label on them. The wheels were a tight fit on the axles so I drilled out the wheel centres to avoid breaking the axles.

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Then onto sticking the 4 side pieces onto the chassis plate. Each side has (or should have !!) a 'T' piece moulded on which is the support for the elevated commanders position. I managed the break one off at this stage (and another later !!), so care needed.

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The cross pieces to support the suspension followed plus the return rollers. No particular problems but one of the cross pieces differs from the others so make sure that it goes at the correct place.

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The small springs or bumper stops? were added to the suspension and the completed units added to the cross members. Fit was good apart from needing to file a smidge off a couple of the ?springs to fit them into the gap in the cross pieces. I then test fitted a length of completed track to make sure everything lined up.

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Talking of tracks, the instructions have you glueing a connecting block to each track plate, then push fitting the individual track plate assemblies together. This seemed over fiddly to me and instead I assembled a complete run of the connecting blocks - each side pc c.11inches took about half an hour - then stuck a track plate onto each connector - each run took about 15 minutes. This worked fine and IMHO made linking the connecting blocks easier than when they were glued to the plates.

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Given that virtually nothing above the main wheels is visible on the completed vehicle I didn't bother with the top run of track.

Having put both sides of track on the next step was the floor of the fighting compartment. This comprises 4 pieces, front back and 2 short sides. The locating points for the back and front pieces are poor and on the first run I ended up with a 2mm gap at he side pieces. Luckily I was able to prise off the front and back pieces and having tried a number of test fits found the best answer was the glue the 4 pieces together on a flat surface. Once dry this could be manoeuvred around on the chassis until a good fit was found.

If of course you manage to keep the 'T' pieces attached to the side it becomes a little easier because the 2 side pieces have a small cut out to clear them.

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That's all for now folks (and looking at the last pic I've a nasty feeling that I've got the track on the wrong way round - ah well it's now stuck on and is not moving :banghead:)

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Interior now done except for 3 rifles that fit to a rack on the bars across the back of the midships engine compartment. It'll be easier to paint everything before adding them.

Everything fitted well (but it would have been easier if I hadn't broken off the 'T' bars earlier in the build).

I usually fully close up my builds but I may make an exception here, leaving the doors and top hatches open.

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Hi Chris,

nice build.Have you checked out the build article by Steve Zaloga in Military Modelling for June 2015,good article with some very interesting shots of A7's with the front and rear panels dropped and roof removed from the command cupola.Opens up the area even more to see the detail.

Dave.

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Hi Dave

I haven't seen the article but have seen via Google images pics of Steve Z's build with one side missing - very impressive.

I was initially tempted to do something similar, possibly making the top removable but a) my detail painting skills are not up to Steve's level B) I haven't an engine and c) it would be an absolute bu.... to keep dust free :shutup:.

So it'll be just the hatches and possibly doors open.

Chris

Edited by Chris B
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  • 3 weeks later...

Last chance to see the interior before it's closed up.

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I've decided to close the doors and ports and just leave the sliding roof and drivers/commanders vision ports open. Being rather cack handed in my dotage I usually manage to knock off something that's not firmly fixed every time I handle a model.plus it'll mean it's easier to airbrush.

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cool. This one is on my to-do list, after the St. Chamond I'm currently working on. The similarity of the suspension and drive arrangements between the two is uncanny- the front idlers look like they'd almost be inter-changeable. You can certainly see the 'Holt' DNA in both of these!

Will

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