Airbrush Cleaner - what's the point of it?

[Raven Morpheus]

Hey all

I've been using UMP Airbrush Cleaner, I did use Vallejo's stuff to begin with when I started airbrushing, but I've also been using UMP Thinner to clean out my airbrush, especially between colours, and I'm finding I get the same/similar results.

So what's the difference between using airbrush cleaner and thinners for flushing/backflushing?

Edited August 30, 2015 by Raven Morpheus

[Graham T]

Not sure it DOES. I clean my brush after every use by blowing through suitable thinners & backflushing before stripping it down & using spray cleaner.. When I strip it down the needle in particular is always still caked in colour so IMHO simply back flushing isn't enough.

[Jinxman]

Not sure it DOES. I clean my brush after every use by blowing through suitable thinners & backflushing before stripping it down & using spray cleaner.. When I strip it down the needle in particular is always still caked in colour so IMHO simply back flushing isn't enough.

Agree 100%..

[Mitch K]

I use Tamiya acrylics and I find the get everywhere. I strip down and clean out the airbrush with surgical spirit after every session. I'll clean out and flush it between colours in a session, but unless it's stripped and scrubbed, it's a non-starter.

[old thumper]

Enamel paints tend to build up in the nozzle even after a thorough cleaning routine using white spirit. Airbrush cleaner seems to be the only stuff strong enough to soften cured enamel deposits, once it has softened it can be pushed out with an old needle.

[Raven Morpheus]

Ok so what's the difference between using airbrush cleaner and thinners for flushing/backflushing?

I'm just wondering why I'm buying cleaner when thinners seems to do the same job?

[cmatthewbacon]

...like the man says, airbrush cleaner can remove dried/caked deposits, so I guess it's "hotter" than thinner. The difference is that thinner has to be able to mix with paint and be sprayed onto a plastic model, whereas cleaner isn't intended to go anywhere near plastic, so it can be rather more powerful. Personally I tend to blow pure thinner, then a couple of squirts of "liquid reamer," then backflush with pure thinner between colours, and then a full blown clean with liquid reamer and, occasionally Halfords "lacquer thinner" after a session. I always use lacquer thinner on a paintbrush to clean inside the nozzle, before plugging it into the liquid reamer tube and blowing the stuff backwards through the tip. That always brings out some gunge that all the previous activities have missed!

bestest,

M.

[old thumper]

Ok so what's the difference between using airbrush cleaner and thinners for flushing/backflushing?

I'm just wondering why I'm buying cleaner when thinners seems to do the same job?

If you try putting a bit of kitchen paper that has been used with airbrush cleaner onto a polystyrene model you will soon see how strong it is. I don't know exactly what airbrush cleaner is exactly but it seems to evaporate much faster than thinners, it reminds me a lot of a cleaning fluid we used to use called ethanol ketone.

Edited August 30, 2015 by old thumper

[Watcher]

I think some cleaners (at least the Vallejo one) have a lubricant in as well. I tend to spray with water and then with Vallejo cleaner to clean up. Every now and again I wipe over with some acetone (avoidng any washers).

[cruiserguy]

Hi Morpheus,

My guess is this. I think thinners work OK if you clean immediately after brushing each colour. This is what I do. At that point, the paint in the airbrush would be liquid, and still have to dry. In my experience the difference between thinners and cleaners is the latter clean dried paint from the needle and cup, and so I guess are much stronger than thinners.

Just my 2p worth.

Best Wishes,

Will.

[Tony C]

Maybe a silly question but what is back flushing and how is it carried out?

[old thumper]

Maybe a silly question but what is back flushing and how is it carried out?

Back flushing is just where you put your finger over the nozzle while spraying thinners, all the air gets forced back into the paint cup and cleans away any nasty little bits and bobs that gets in it's way. It doesn't work so well on toilets mind.

[Gremlin56]

I flush the airbrushes with Glassex, (Dutch brand of Windex), and then give them a rinse through with airbrush cleaner. I then remove the needle and wipe it clean. This still doesn't prevent paint build up in the nozzle and internally so about every three weeks i put all the airbrushes in the ultrasonic cleaner, rinse the parts, dry them, lube the needle and reassemble the airbrushes.

These are fine instruments and they need some care and maintenance to keep them trouble free.

Just my though..........................................

[Tony C]

Back flushing is just where you put your finger over the nozzle while spraying thinners, all the air gets forced back into the paint cup and cleans away any nasty little bits and bobs that gets in it's way. It doesn't work so well on toilets mind.

Thanks for that, I'll give it a try next time I'm spraying.

[Ace From Outer Space]

Informative thread. Thanks guys, I'm new to airbrushing so this is great! Cheers!

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Have to agree with the replies here: My motto for cleaning mine is simple: When I think I've cleaned it enough and it's clean; I havent.

Backflushing helps but stripping and cleaning the needle and tip always reveals more stuff to clean away. If you havent got a set of airbrushing cleaning brushes - they are worth the investment. if you get into the habit of stripping and cleaning it becomes second nature - and I don't mean cleaning your airbrush whilst naked either !!

Jonners

[mossieramm]

For enamels and Laquer paints I use DIY laquer thinner sprayed at a high psi. That gets 99% of the junk out. Don't backflush with high psi though or you'll find yourself wearing the thinner. If I'm going to paint straight away, that's all I do to clean and go on to the next colour. If I'm finished for the day I'll then disasemble the airbrush and give the parts a wipe with a kitchen towel with just a hint of laquer thinner to get the other 1% off. Set it aside for a few minutes, then reassemble and I'm ready to go.

For Vallejo and Lifecolor. I spray those thinned with water and washing up liquid. The washing up liquid not only helps the spraying, but also helps to stop the paint sticking to the airbrush to much. To clean I use just tapwater sprayed at a high psi. That doesn't get all the junk out, but most. I then disasemble the airbrush and first give the parts a wipe with a dry piece of kitchen towel. Then I give the parts a wipe with a kitchen towel slightly dipped in laquer thinner to get the rest off. Then set aside for a few minutes and then reassemble.

David.

[viscount806x]

It doesn't work so well on toilets mind.

I find that it works moderately well, sends any blockages into the neighbours toilet, and boy, does he deserve it the cad!

[Beardie]

If you are referring to Acrylic thinners then the difference between them and airbrush cleaners is very simple. The thinners are a mixture of clear acrylic polymer, water and flow agents (surfactants) designed to thin out paint for transparency and ease of spraying without leaving the pigment without enough acrylic to bind it together, running it through your airbrush between colours will clean most of the colour out of the brush but will leave the inside coated in a thin covering of clear acrylic polymer. Airbrush cleaners on the other hand are a solvent that will dissolve any acrylic polymer that is inside the brush and flush it out. I would not advise cleaning your brushes with Acrylic thinners, you would be better advised to use plain old water between colours to flush you brushes.

When it comes to enamels (my own paint of choice) I use genuine turpentine to thin my paints, turpentine substitute to rinse through the brushes between colours and at the end the brush is stripped down and cleaned with pure acetone taking care to avoid it coming into contact with any 'O' rings or seals as this stuff is not too vicious (compared to cellulose thinners etc.) but easily softens and cleans out enamels.

[Duncan B]

As some others have said I will flush through between colours with thinners until the previous colour has gone then give it a blast of liquid reamer to get the hard deposits off but at the end of each session the airbrush gets a serious blast of liquid reamer and a good strip down. I have also started using Artist's wipes to assist with the clean up.

I once asked the same question as the OP to the technical support at The Airbrush Company and was told that thinners will only thin the paint (but will leave a trace of paint behind which will build up over time) whereas the cleaners will clean out all residue left in the airbrush. Apparently he can tell what cleaning method is being used by the state of the insides when servicing airbrushes and the most common cause of problems is a build up of hardened paint in the airbrush.

Duncan B

[old thumper]

My new airbrush has a floating nozzle, so I can now take the whole thing apart in seconds and clean inside with a cotton bud.

[cruiserguy]

As some others have said I will flush through between colours with thinners until the previous colour has gone then give it a blast of liquid reamer to get the hard deposits off but at the end of each session the airbrush gets a serious blast of liquid reamer and a good strip down. I have also started using Artist's wipes to assist with the clean up.

I once asked the same question as the OP to the technical support at The Airbrush Company and was told that thinners will only thin the paint (but will leave a trace of paint behind which will build up over time) whereas the cleaners will clean out all residue left in the airbrush. Apparently he can tell what cleaning method is being used by the state of the insides when servicing airbrushes and the most common cause of problems is a build up of hardened paint in the airbrush.

Duncan B

Good Afternoon Duncan,

The only liquid reamers I have come across are for cleaning solvent based paints. I use acrylics. Are there any suitable for deep-cleaning acrylic paint from airbrushes?

Best Wishes,

Will.

[viscount806x]

Good Afternoon Duncan,

The only liquid reamers I have come across are for cleaning solvent based paints. I use acrylics. Are there any suitable for deep-cleaning acrylic paint from airbrushes?

Best Wishes,

Will.

Get yourself one of those little ultrasonic baths, they do work. Liquid reamer will clean acrylics and it is rumoured will also fetch sh*t off a blanket too although I haven't tried it...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Machine-Ultra-Sonic-Timer-Tank-Bath-Cleaning-Basket-/331470046434?var=&hash=item4d2d2784e2

[Duncan B]

Good Afternoon Duncan,

The only liquid reamers I have come across are for cleaning solvent based paints. I use acrylics. Are there any suitable for deep-cleaning acrylic paint from airbrushes?

Best Wishes,

Will.

The Airbrush Company (and other places) sell 2 aerosol cleaners that will work with acrylics, they have a foaming cleaner which is good for flushing through and the liquid reamer which will shift almost anything. I use both depending on what I am doing and I only use acrylic paints, mostly Mr Color or Mr Hobby but I have used them on Vallejo etc too.

Duncan B

EDIT: the products in question are: Premi-air's Liquid Reamer solvent airbrush cleaner and their Foaming Airbrush Cleaner which is states is 'water based for... most alkali soluble acrylic colours'.

HTH