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First ever build, Tamiya's Matilda MK.III/IV 1:35


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Hey everyone,

You can see my introduction thread here.

So, everything has arrived. Got the cutting mat and some tools, it's all pretty exciting! The tweezers I pinched from some manicure set thing, I read that they can come in handy!

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Obligatory picture of the box (I think they are obligatory anyways, I see them a lot).

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Now this is all the sprues, more than I thought there would be. Felt a tad overwhelmed at this point, excited overwhelmed but enough to make me think 'this is gonna be hard'.

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Some individual sprue pictures, I'm loving all the detail in this. Even the figures head doesn't to bad, I had read that I might need to get a replacement head from somewhere (forget the name now).

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So, all the sprues are back in the box and I've set my cutting mat up. Honestly I'm a weird mix of excited and anxious, I don't want to muck it up, although saying that I am anticipating mistakes galore. I'm glad I've posted up the start for all you to see and witness my first ever build, I'm imagining that will give me added motivation to complete.

I had a quick look around online for extra bits for the Matilda, I know you can get little shiny, gold bits (damn memory, can't remember the name of them either!) that make for a more accurate build. It's a tad confusing for someone like me who doesn't yet know all the ins and outs, could anyone recommend a definitive accessory to buy to add on to this kit, that would be braw.

Anyways, I'm off now to make my first start on it or better yet I'll go through the instructions first.

Take care folks,

Pi

P.S

Sorry about the photos, I've only got my phone will probably have to invest in a decent camera at some point!

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I've never built this kit but the ones I've seen turn out well.

If this is your first model I would not bother with brass etch detail sets, just enjoy the build.

There is plenty of people on here that will give you any advice/tips that you may require.

Take your time and I look forward to seeing this come together

Roger

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Hi Pi,

I don't know if it will be of use to you, but I have a stalled build that has been "aging" for over a year here.

Kind regards,

Adam

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Hello Chap.

Forget about the etch, get in there, enjoy the build, learn from mistakes, enjoy the build, greet the carpet monster with a slightly manic grin, enjoy the build, don't be disappointed when it doesn't turn out like some of the fantastic builds on here, enjoy the build, be prepared to try and work out how you got glue and paint over the table or carpet or yourself or the dog or....

and most of all enjoy the build...

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Good luck Pi,as a first build you could'nt do better than a Tamiya kit,Roger has hit the nail on the head PE is something for the future and some folk

never go that far it really is a matter of Personal taste.so best of luck,are you airbrushing or hand painting?

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Thanks Roger, yep I've realised it's fiddly enough without extra fiddly stuff!

Thanks Adam, It was good to see another build with the same kit, although yours looks like it is coming along amazingly! Thanks for the link.

Haha PLC1966, the carpet monster - came across that beast last night, several times in fact. Probably spent more time under my desk looking for things than modelling! Thanks for your comment.

Thanks stevej60, I'm going to be brush painting, I like the idea of that. For some reason spraying seems like it will take the fun out of it. Although I'm probably wrong as never done it before! I've already spent about £100 on this and not even got brushes yet, waiting for paints and other things to arrive.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Last night was a blast starting this, stuck on some Netflix and just relaxed - spent most of the time trimming wheels! My neck was getting pretty sore as well, so took plenty of breaks! Easy done when you're a smoker! Realised I need to get some files for easier trimming of wheels and such, so jumped on Amazon and bought a set of files and a mini drill bit thing. Not sure if I need the drill thing or not but may as well get it. Also ordered Vallejo WWII Allied paints, just got the big box and if I need more will order what I need (miles away from painting anyways).

So, I got completely confused last night with the instructions telling me not to glue the wheel sprocket things and use a poly cap. Well I had no idea what a poly cap was, was just going to glue them, then I thought I better Google it and it turns out it was little rod bits of plastic to go between the wheels. Still not sure how the are going to stay together, as haven't turned the instructions page yet (that sounds weird as I write this, should have done that).

Learnt a lot even with the short time I spent last night. Main points are, as little glue as possible to join the parts! Quite unhappy with how some glue squeezed out, also the glue I've got seems to just rush out quite fast - ended up wiping a lot on my thumb before dabbing on the plastic.

Next point is clip as close to the part as possible, this will save me lots of time in trimming, at first I clipped quite far off and spent ages trimming with the knife and it's easy to over trim slightly I found!

Related to this is always pay attention when trimming, either for your thumbs well being! And the model!

So, this is where I am at right now. Again sorry for pictures, I don't get much daylight in here so had to put the lamp on, coupled with the phone makes for 'not the best pictures'.

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This next picture, shows my biggest mistake last night. When I was trimming I cut to deep, tried to even it out and figured I could use the glue to maybe cement it over?! I think this could have worked but I fiddled around with it to soon and the glue wasn't completely dry, going to have another poke at it in a minute see if I can fix it up better. Maybe need to get some of that green stuff I've seen in other pictures, but will first have to research how to do that! I'm not to bothered though as it's on the bottom, no one is going to see it (but I'll no it's there - haha).

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Anyways, thats where I am just now. Really happy with it and I'm enjoying it so far! Thanks again for all your comments, it's a real motivator.

Take it easy,

Pi

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Nice start, sorry you've met the carpet monster so early.

The polly caps allow the you to push fit the sprockets/wheels without cement so they can turn. Helps with lining up the tracks so they sit on the sprockets correctly,

also helps with painting.

Roger

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Welcome! Lovely work area...but that won't last :)

Good luck with your build and remember the key rule: Have fun and enjoy it!

For your mistake let it dry then fill with more glue and when that's dry sand down with some very fine sandpaper or the wifes emery boards taking care not to sand the raised details beside it.

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Welcome!

Great progress so far, It's a great idea posting a work in progress of your first build, hopefully you can get the tips you need to make the build more straight forward, but be prepared to make mistakes, that's how we all learn, especially if you correct them!

For the area you have over trimmed you could try some filler, this stuff would do the job:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Materials-Perfect-Plastic-Putty/dp/B0076LAVFK

You can apply a small amount and then wipe off the excess with a damp cotton bud or finger.

I agree with the other on the Photo etch detail front if leave that until you've completed a few builds. It's a good idea to try one or 2 new things on each build, otherwise it gets overwhelming and you can easily loose interest!

Phil

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Thanks everyone for the comments, and Phil cheers I've got some Vallejo filler stuff already ordered - just waiting for it to arrive.

So, I've been working nightshift the last two nights (still got two to do :weep: ). I've really just been trimming parts I've cut from the sprue, nothing to labour extensive and was lying in bed, watching Netflix, winding down, trimming some plastic and admittedly admiring my own handiwork on the tanks hull haha.

Put everything down the side of the bed and fell asleep, then at about 11am my door buzzer goes off. I jumped out of bed and unfortunately stepped on the model - crushing it! And it was only the postie as well, nothing exciting :(

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You can see the wheel bracket thingy-ma-jig is all bent here.

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Close up of the snapped off glue.

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I was pretty annoyed at the time, expletives were flying everywhere but after another wee nap, I'm all chilled out now. I've got two 1/72 kits being delivered hopefully next week and can start on one of them. I think I might prefer the smaller scale as I like fiddling with the smaller parts on this one, I know I could probably fix it but it wouldn't be the same.

I've learnt a lot from this model (my first), what I'm going to do is build up the turret and figure and use it now for practice (painting and trying things out). Which, when you think about it is pretty good, I won't have that 'oh hope I don't mess this up fear' and can just carry on. There is loads of things I've read online and want to try out, always a silver lining! My foot is still a bit sore though, it was like walking on a Lego!

So, this concludes my first work in progress. Thanks again everyone for the comments, it really gives you that extra motivation, because you want to post what you've completed along the way!

Cheers

Pi

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Happens to us all...

I would put it back in the box, give it a week and then crack on with it.

The displaced wheel bogie doesn't seem tricky to fix back with a bit of wiggling- and the snap where the lower hull has separated from the sponsons (the term for the sides) has happened along the weakest place- the join between parts. Indeed, I don't think you had enough glue in there in the first place.

The best way to do long joins like this (especially where one side can be concealed inside) is to hold (or tape) the parts together first and then swiftly run the tip of the glue nozzle along the join- squeezing as you go. The capillary action will 'then suck' the glue into the join nice and evenly- sounds more complicated than it is.

Will

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The best way to do long joins like this (especially where one side can be concealed inside) is to hold (or tape) the parts together first and then swiftly run the tip of the glue nozzle along the join- squeezing as you go. The capillary action will 'then suck' the glue into the join nice and evenly- sounds more complicated than it is.

Will

Thanks! That's a really good tip, won't that merge the armour lines though? And when the model comes ready for painting it will be hard to define it? If you know what I mean.

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Cheers Phil, I'm honestly thinking of just using it for practicing things on. I can always buy another one later on. I'm totally fascinated with 1/72 just now though. But glad I got some experience on this one. Even things that all you lot will find simple, like trimming the mould lines and things!

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Thanks! That's a really good tip, won't that merge the armour lines though? And when the model comes ready for painting it will be hard to define it? If you know what I mean.

You'd be surprised- the glue (I also use Revell Contacta) will mostly be on the interior of the joint- the actual amount drawn through by capillary action into the joint is very small- and once the glue gets to the 'other side' of the join, the capillary action no longer has an effect and it stops right there as if by magic.

Indeed, I reckon for these kind of 'armour plate' joints you stand more of a risk if you applied the glue first actually. What tends to happen when you do it this way is when you press the glue-coated parts together the glue has nowhere to go. And like biting down on a Victoria sponge with too much cream in it, the glue oozes sideways out of the join! I find capillary action a lot more predictable than that!

Of course, too much glue can in some circumstances be your friend. For example, when you place pressure on a join and the glue/melted plastic oozes out- this acts like a natural filler. The ooze is made of the same glue-melted-plastic as the surrounding area, which means that when it dries you can easily sand/cut away this dried ooze. If the joint oozed enough, there will be no record of the seam. This has it's best uses on smoooth aircraft models, but has it's application in armour modelling where you might, for example, have a gear casing or a gun barrel moulded in two halves and hence you don't want a visible seam.

Hope this helps, I fear I might have made some very simple techniques sound much more complex than they are!

Will

Edited by Killingholme
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Thanks Will, that's brilliant advice and tips. I'll definitely give that a try and I've came across the glue squeezing out like that before and wasn't to happy with the join. Thanks again for taking the time to write all that out!

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Don't let that mishap stop you, As has been said it is salvageable and no one will ever know you had a problem.

Take a break and come back to it in a short while. Looking forward to seeing it completed

Roger

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