bigbadbadge Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi All I have the Revell boxing of the Matchbox 1/32 Kit. I bought it for £5 a few years ago from my then Local Model shop in Hythe, Kent. This bargain price was because someone had painted the lower wing surfaces yellow. I am not sure which scheme to do, The RAF machine from the box looks very nice and I am actually tempted to do that anyway. I have also been looking at some FAA machines three and two jump out T7187 which looks to be is the normal FAA two tone upper surface camouflage but I cannot make out the lower surfaces, I imagine this might have been a later painted scheme perhaps for displays ??? Also T8191 which appears in the 1980s to be in Dark Green/Medium Sea Grey over yellow undersides and finally XL-717 a silver machine with yellow bands on wings and fuselage The top part of the engine cowling appears bashed in places. I am not able to upload the images as they are copywrighted although can be located on Google. The Kit offering is appealing as I don't need to get any aftermarket decals. Work will start soon. All the best Chris 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Decisions, decisions! But what some nice ones yo have to make. WilliamJ over on LSP is making a stunning one in a deep maroon and silver scheme, pre-war private flying club, and it's just beautiful: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54122&page=7 There are some very attractive paint jobs applied to Tigers so you're spoiled for choice Chris. If you're a purist you may want to know that the lower dihedral on the Revell kit is too flat, it should be 4.5 degs. John Aero has posted here on BM how to correct it (basically shortening the interplane struts by 2mm or so) but it gets quite complicated because that can also affect the upper wing angle if you're not careful. Hmmm. I've paraphrased John's fix below: "Please note that the kit interplane struts are too long, which means that the lower wing dihedral will be too flat. The true lengths in 1:32 are Front 44.5 mm and Rear 45.25 mm. Make sure that your top wing dihedral isn't pulled down if you alter them. The dihedral of the top wing is 2 deg 45 min and the bottom wing is 4 deg 30 min at the front spars. I think the kit top wing is Okay.This means roughly 5 mm under the top tips without the tank fitted and 8.5 mm under the lower tips with roots flat. The fault comes from the Cox drawings which Matchbox used as the basic reference. The drawing shows separate struts and these are over scale." Good luck anyway, I'll be interested to watch your progress......and welcome to the GB! Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Hi Max Thanks for the heads up, I will look at that. I may also have a look at some alternative schemes too. Google here we come !!! All the bestChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Wow, had a look at the Tiggie thread on LSP and the plane and the Jag look absolutely stunning. Thanks Max All the betChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Sweet isn't it Chris! Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Rogers Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 That aircraft G-AIXJ belongs to a neighbour of mine, been up in it once. He's doing a great job on that old Matchbox kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi All I think I will go for the box art aircraft as I like one in Camouflage and the yellow top wing sections on the outer top surfaces will make it a bit different. I have so far cut a lot of bits from the sprues and will make a start proper very soon, Ironically I have been working on a Blenheimn 1 from a previous group build ages ago. All the bestChris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maltadefender Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 How much flash have you got, Chris? I think I'm going to lose two thirds of the box weight by the time I've trimmed all the struts back to their intended shape! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi Nick crikey really, mines okay I think, I don't think there is much at all. I will check later All the best Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maltadefender Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 I don't mind… I'm used to Revell's 1/28 WW1 aircraft. They're 90% flash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi All I have today thinned out the trailing edge of one of the engine cowls (Port side) and pretty much all of the Starboard side cowl as I would like to display that one open. I will post some images when I get a bit more done, I was looking at replacing the framing inside the cockpit area but I don't think that I will have enough time to do that too so will leave alone. Could I ask being a camouflaged aircraft would the cockpit interior have been interior green ? Also Nick, I have very little flash the kit is really nice. All the bestChris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 I think you're safe doing the cockpit interior green Chris. Max 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Brilliant Thanks Max All the bestChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 The kit scheme looks very nice. Looking forward to seeing the build! Regards, Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hi All A little progress, although I find myself short on modelling time!!! I have separated the rudder and cut the tab off the tail fin, thanks to Max's Excellent and very informative build thread. I have marked out the luggage compartment and will sot that out next. Will post some piccies soon when I have a bit more time. All the bestChris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi all Got some bits started finally. I started by thinning out the engine cowling sides the left hand side only had the rear edge thinned whilst the right side had the whole part thinned as this is the one I want to have open. I then thinned the air scoop on the outside of the panel and added the plate over the inside. Fuselage modifications made to rear cockpit surround and luggage bay aperture scribed. Not sure if quite correct height as guessing where it went really. Seat has been thinned and added to it's base Locating slot filled in rear horizontal tail planes for tail mount correction. I have separated all the moving surfaces. Thanks for looking All the bestChris 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Love it Chris......Anoraks United!!!!! Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Thanks Max, I find your build thread very informative and useful, if I had more to build I would have bought one of the Haynes manuals but cannot justify just for the one build. Thanks for your help All the bestChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 The Haynes manual is interesting but I'm not sure it helps a great deal with building an accurate model, I'm just very lucky to have access to them. I need more detail on the under fuselage where the pivot for the aileron mechanism is, so I'm going to lie underneath one tomorrow morning! Max 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrtpaul Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I wanna build this at some stage representing a Tiger I went flying in. I'll be watching your build for sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrtpaul Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 The Haynes manual is interesting but I'm not sure it helps a great deal with building an accurate model, I'm just very lucky to have access to them. I need more detail on the under fuselage where the pivot for the aileron mechanism is, so I'm going to lie underneath one tomorrow morning! Max I wouldn't mind seeing pics of that as well. Even though I took over 350 pics of the plane I'll be building, I still missed things including the aileron bellcrank under the fuselage :banghead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I wouldn't mind seeing pics of that as well. Even though I took over 350 pics of the plane I'll be building, I still missed things including the aileron bellcrank under the fuselage :banghead: I'll put them in the reference thread shortly Paul. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maltadefender Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Thoughts on Haynes manuals would be welcome… I'm writing one at the moment (cars) and they've asked me to do my first aircraft book. Am going to put a section in on models and modelling, so let me know the sort of thing that the Moth book is lacking. Looking more Tig-like all the time there, Chris. I'll post some more pics of mine in a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 It's clear that a Haynes manual has to be all things to all people and as such the Tiger Moth one is well presented into logical sections which are eminently readable but I'm not sure that a "Modelling the Tiger Moth" section would add anything to the book - which kit(s) would you use, would they be OOB or would you include corrections and improvements? In order to be acceptable and authoritative the standard of modelling would have to be high. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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