Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Wow, a special build and an equally special finish, really nice job! So much so I have a few questions in an attempt to learn how to get it that good,

When you micro mesh the paint, do you use water? And how long do you let the paint cure beforehand? I tried it once and it marked the paint irreversibly and needed a respray :(.

Also what matt varnish do you use, it looks very good.

And finally how do you polish a decal (and why even)?

Again, 10/10 model, and as I know nothing about anything with a prop on the front, I would be non the wiser if it wasn't in this what if GB, top model!

Cheers,

David.

Edited by mirageiv
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a work of art!

Thank you raptormodeller. I've never had one of my models called a work of art before. Thanks again, Joe.

Wow, a special build and an equally special finish, really nice job! So much so I have a few questions in an attempt to learn how to get it that good,

When you micro mesh the paint, do you use water? And how long do you let the paint cure beforehand? I tried it once and it marked the paint irreversibly and needed a respray :(.

Also what matt varnish do you use, it looks very good.

And finally how do you polish a decal (and why even)?

Again, 10/10 model, and as I know nothing about anything with a prop on the front, I would be non the wiser if it wasn't in this what if GB, top model!

Cheers,

David.

Thank you very much David.

In answer to your questions, I use the micro mesh dry. You can use water, but it will remove the paint rather than polish it.

I've never used Mr Hobby paints before and found out I had to leave it for a couple of days to harden. Some of the other modellers at the beginning of the build said the thinners I was going to use might not be the right one even though the site I got it from said it was. It could have been why it took a few days to go off, I don't know for sure. They could have well have been right. I've used other paints (Aeromaster Acrylic, best paint ever) and I could polish it after a couple of hours. Look at the first couple of pages and read what Trickyrich, Colin W, Arniec and -Neu- wrote. I think there's some good advice there with modellers who have used this brand of paint and have had more experience than me with it.

The Matt varnish I used was Mr Hobby Flat Clear H20. I really liked it and will use it all the time now.

The decals had a different sheen than the paint. It didn't show on the photos, but was noticeable on the model. I sprayed a light coat of the Flat Clear H20 over the decals, then when completely dry, I polished them lightly with fine micro mesh so they blended in. Take extra care doing this, or you could rip some of the decal off.

I hope this helps. Please just ask if you have any other questions. Thanks again, regards, Joe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One word....Class.

That just looks right, outstanding job A*

Thank you fids, that's very good of you to say. I stayed up late to get it finished ;).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much David.

In answer to your questions, I use the micro mesh dry. You can use water, but it will remove the paint rather than polish it.

I've never used Mr Hobby paints before and found out I had to leave it for a couple of days to harden. Some of the other modellers at the beginning of the build said the thinners I was going to use might not be the right one even though the site I got it from said it was. It could have been why it took a few days to go off, I don't know for sure. They could have well have been right. I've used other paints (Aeromaster Acrylic, best paint ever) and I could polish it after a couple of hours. Look at the first couple of pages and read what Trickyrich, Colin W, Arniec and -Neu- wrote. I think there's some good advice there with modellers who have used this brand of paint and have had more experience than me with it.

The Matt varnish I used was Mr Hobby Flat Clear H20. I really liked it and will use it all the time now.

The decals had a different sheen than the paint. It didn't show on the photos, but was noticeable on the model. I sprayed a light coat of the Flat Clear H20 over the decals, then when completely dry, I polished them lightly with fine micro mesh so they blended in. Take extra care doing this, or you could rip some of the decal off.

I hope this helps. Please just ask if you have any other questions. Thanks again, regards, Joe

Thank you for the detailed response Joe! I'll give the dry micro mesh a try on my paints (mainly enamels) and see what is what :). Also I'll pic up some of that flat clear, looks the business. I usually use Xtracolor gloss paints to get a smoother scale finish (I have loads of them so not too keen on buying a new paint range atm) as I have never really got on with any type of gloss coat (always manage to make it slightly 'pebbly') so hopefully this will allow me to use many of my matt paints properly. Thanks again,

David.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the detailed response Joe! I'll give the dry micro mesh a try on my paints (mainly enamels) and see what is what :). Also I'll pic up some of that flat clear, looks the business. I usually use Xtracolor gloss paints to get a smoother scale finish (I have loads of them so not too keen on buying a new paint range atm) as I have never really got on with any type of gloss coat (always manage to make it slightly 'pebbly') so hopefully this will allow me to use many of my matt paints properly. Thanks again,

David.

Your very welcome David. I can't remember if I've used micro mesh on enamel paint. Changing paint range can be a problem. Especially when using different brands as you don't know how they will react with one another. I normally try a new paint or combinations of brands on a test piece first. I tend to use parts of the kit that the paint can easily be removed if I have a problem. The horizontal stabilizer is one part I use for a test piece, because it's normally flat with not much raised detail. Joe
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful Spad! Just confirms what I've always thought - there's not an aeroplane around that doesn't look better in the old FAA colours. Why I bet even the Gannet would look good in those colours (seriously, though, just imagine the Gannet in SEA camouflage...).

Regards,

Jason

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful Spad! Just confirms what I've always thought - there's not an aeroplane around that doesn't look better in the old FAA colours. Why I bet even the Gannet would look good in those colours (seriously, though, just imagine the Gannet in SEA camouflage...).

Regards,

Jason

Thank you Jason. Your right, those colours would suit any aeroplane. Regards, Joe.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful Spad! Just confirms what I've always thought - there's not an aeroplane around that doesn't look better in the old FAA colours. Why I bet even the Gannet would look good in those colours (seriously, though, just imagine the Gannet in SEA camouflage...).

Regards,

Jason

When is the next What I :thumbsup: f.......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just looks so right, very tasty

Thank you spaddad, I'm glad you like it. Joe

Stunning finish - great model, fun idea and built with much skill - Kudos!

:hypnotised:

Thank you Tim. It's a nice easy model to build. Joe

When is the next What I :thumbsup: f.......

Hi fids, I'm not sure when the next group build is. But I would join the next one for sure. Joe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now a Gannet in SEA camouflage - that would be a very interesting 'What If?'. I'm not going to attempt it on my Gannet, but I wish someone would. Let's see about the back story - in Vietnam the USAF was in desperate need of some small AEW aircraft for use in the Igloo White programme, the British had some surplus Gannets...

Regards,

Jason

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great build Joe, very well done sir! :thumbsup:

Hello Greg, thank you. I'm off work tomorrow so I will have time to take some photos and post them in the Gallery. Joe

Now a Gannet in SEA camouflage - that would be a very interesting 'What If?'. I'm not going to attempt it on my Gannet, but I wish someone would. Let's see about the back story - in Vietnam the USAF was in desperate need of some small AEW aircraft for use in the Igloo White programme, the British had some surplus Gannets...

Regards,

Jason

Hello Jason, that sounds a good What if with the start of a good back story. Joe
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A sure fire winner in my opinion.

Excellent job. :thumbsup:

Thank you tc2324. I really enjoyed the Group build. I hope you did as well. Joe.

17534F1F-7117-4406-8DD5-5791213A9C32_zps

Thanks to everyone during the WIP for your post. I've added the photos in the Gallery

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking forward to your next build, Joe

Thanks Jaime. I'm not sure what it will be yet. I've got at least three I could build in the KUTA GB. But I'm not the fastest of model makers so I'm not sure which one yet. Joe.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I've just come across this build and I have to say the result is a fantastic looking model.

Such a great idea for a what if too,

Thank you very much thepureness. From your part of the world I believe.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Yes

10 miles up the road, Go to the Air day there every July

Hello thepureness, I've just noticed the date of the Culdrose Airday (28th July for those who don't know). Unfortunately I won't be able to make it this year. Let's hope the weather stays good for the display. It's a shame 771 will not be flying. I hear there is a 771 Sea King on display inside the fence on the corner of the base now.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...