neilm Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Just finished mine, very pleased with it. What do you think? I am going to post my Pochers in the finished forum, when I finally manage to master the uploading from photobucket. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 (edited) That Bug looks wonderful. More pictures please. On the tack of working brakes etc - I think Pocher kits aren't far removed from the 1/12 Tamiya cars in respect of 'working' parts. Suspension that 'works' Steering that 'works' Door handles and doors that 'work'... etc etc etc. At the end of the day, it's a plastic (Tamiya) model kit and parts, however well assembled, aren't really strong enough for the task and continual operation of the 'working' bits results in failure. Pocher kits are much the same. They are model kits with a large amount of plastic parts and (often poorly) engineered metal bits. To get most of the so-called working parts to actually function would involve replacing a substantial amount of the kit parts with closely engineered miniature replicas of the real parts. When you consider the minimal acceptable tolerances of slack in the real part, that tolerance needs to be 8 x tighter at this scale. It really isn't practical and even if it was possible, the plastic components flex on their own anyway, adding another ingredient of play into the mix. Build a good model, make the parts 'theoretically' work, and enjoy it. Roy. Edited September 24, 2015 by roymattblack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 The steering staft and gears will move the steering arm on its own but not when attached to the front wheels. I may try to grease the rods holding the front wheels to the front axle and see if that helps. My solution was to leave the bevel gear off the cross shaft and assemble the steering box. The wheels are now poseable but don't turn with the steering wheel. Much safer and stops tinkering with toy features by spectators. Plus the car looks smashing with the wheels slightly turned... Just finished mine, very pleased with it. What do you think? I am going to post my Pochers in the finished forum, when I finally manage to master the uploading from photobucket. Neil, think we missed a good thing by you not posting a WIP. PLEASE post finished shots. The masking job on the color sweep is perfect and has my full attention. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Many thanks. Didn't mean to hijack this build but was really just bumbling my way trying to upload pics. Sorry, and will post some more of my poachers on the right forum this week end. Will start a new WIP thread when I start my next one. Thanks. pocherites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Your paint job is outstanding! Did you paint the fenders or is that a clear coat? Same with the yellow is that paint or the natural color? I am really impressed and would appreciate any painting advice! I am really scared of the eventual paint job on my build... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Many thanks but its not that good. I just pick good angles....... I did paint it all and a few pics to show. I too get really nervous when the final coats go on but hey..... half the world is starving. . Be brave when the time comes and if I can help, I will..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 I really like the yellow you used. I will need to look for a similar shade in the states if I stick to the yellow/black combo. Though as I work through the build I'm straying from the yellow/black combo and thinking of blue/black. I still have plenty of time to decide. I've made some small progress and will post pictures this weekend. Work on the radiator is under way. I followed Paul Koo's advice and extended the thread on the rod between the firewall and radiator using my 2mm die. At this point it is my second attempt using the die and I have to admit I can't figure out the right way to use it! How do I hold the rod tight so I can turn the die? I have used a vice grip but it scratches the rod. I tried to tape the rod but that just results in ripped tape when I use the grip. Putting a towel in between reducing the grip strength to nothing. I haven't tried putting tape on the vice grip jaws, maybe that'll help. Is there a rubber jawed version out there? I'm at a loss. So far it's been OK as I've only scratched up parts you won't see but this is not a good path to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 I use a Panavise that has rubber jaws and I put the die in a die holder and use a little bit of lightweight oil on the rod to reduce friction and help cut the thread. I usually only have about an inch sticking out of the top of the vise jaws so there is no flex in the rod I'm trying to thread. In machine shops they use cutting oil when doing this but just a light oil will do the same thing for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Thanks. Do you use a bench style vise or handheld/wrench style? I will go to Home Depot later to look for light oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 It's sort of a bench vise and even though I don't have it hard mounted on my bench it has a heavy enough base that it is pretty stable. I don't know if Home Depot has them, I bought mine online from Micro Mark on sale a while back. It's one of the best tools, along with my Optivisor, I have on my bench, giving me that much needed third hand. It also rotates and is very adjustable which comes in handy. Here are a couple of pictures. I am cleaning up the threads on some 2mm threaded rod here but it is exactly how I would cut threads on a plain rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 A tip for all... I have found when threading 2mm rods (either steel or brass) that filing or grinding the rod to a tapered point allows these small dies to begin biting much more cleanly. The die was always slipping off when I tried to start it on flat end cuts of rod. Much easier with a point. You don't have to make an arrow out of it, just a noticeable taper. Oh and a bench vise is virtually vital for holding rod - as close to the area you want to thread as possible. Hope that saves some frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 What he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Great tip, Codger. Never thought of that. Brilliant !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Cut it out guys, my keyboard is blushing, . And Wayno is right on about real cutting oil. It's dark brown and smells bad but it's Heaven to the die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Another question springs to mind. Is there a top and bottom to a die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Another question springs to mind. Is there a top and bottom to a die? YES! The end you start on the rod is the wider end. And clean out the chips with a blast of air after each complete thread. Start by cutting a bit, then reverse the die a bit. Then start to cut again, going further, then repeat. When you feel resistance to cutting, that's the time to back off a half turn or so. Add a drop of oil from time to time but don't flood it. You'll get the feel right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 ......... And Wayno is right on about real cutting oil. It's dark brown and smells bad but it's Heaven to the die. So it's an aroma to die for...? (Groan...) Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks everyone for the advice on the die process. I used some oil and that helps a lot. Next time I will follow Codger's advice about going slowly forward and backward while cutting. That will probably prevent some of the binding issues I had. I made some good progress on the build. I have added the complete firewall and radiator to the frame. Some of the parts on the firewall suffered from the notorious Pocher pin ejection marks. I tried to putty up and paint as best I could. Wasn't perfect but good enough. I fiddled some more with the steering and got it sort of working through liberal use of WD-40 on the pins holding the wheel assembly to the axle. I can twist the steering rod with some force and the wheels turn. I think that's the best I'll do unless I re-engineer the steering to a bigger rod (not going to happen). For the radiator I decided to add the model motor car Coupe DeVille grille. Getting it to fit was tricky. There are screw holes on the bottom of the metal radiator cover that need to line up with metal anchors that are set in the black plastic. At first I tried to widen the holes on the cover with my dremel, but that didn't really work. I was able to adjust the anchors in the plastic to get it lined up (melting method). Next up is the brake assembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Looking good. Lovely grill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 The build has been a bit delayed by a broken part. One of the press metal foot pedals was defective. Fortunately Peter from Pocher Parts had the part which is currently in transit. I decided to take the delay to work on the wheels. The Bugatti wheels are pretty simple by Pocher standards - three plastic rings that screw together to hold the metal hub and create little fins. Getting them into the tire took some effort. I did 3 with the jam/screw driver method. I think the next three I will try a hair dryer to warm the rubber up a bit first to see if that helps. I used the MMC vinyl ring transfers on the metal hubs. Those proved to be a bit fiddly. The inner ring goes on with no issue as the hub is flat at that point. The outer ring is tricky as hub is curved in addition to being round. The ring eventually won't lay flat and bunches up. I solved this by snipping the ring and laying one end over the other. This worked well for four wheels and I botched two in the process. The botched ones will be the spare tires hanging off the rear. I will post a completed pic over the coming days. I purchased some thin balsa wood and bass wood to experiment with putting a wood façade over the dash board. I will first try staining the wood to see how it looks before I get too far. Has anyone attempted this on their build before, have any suggestions? I know Roy used home printed burl wood decals for his Torpedo build. That thought has crossed my mind too if I ever break down and buy a decent home printer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Hi, I went on ebay under veneers, and you get a massive choice of most woods. Loads of small samples, perfect for the dash. Some beautiful grains that really suit the model. Much better than boring old straight grains as in balsa and bass woods. A few coats of clear and you have got the biz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Brilliant idea. I will look into that. Another question, where do folks find carpet for the 1/8 kits? On the Avendator I bought the carpet kit from Paul Koo (well worth the money, his directions take all the guess work out of it), but that is limited to black. I can't tell what the material is. I'd like to get some extra "carpet" for the Bugatti for the bottom door panels. Plus I have a few other kits in the stash that will need some carpeting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Try looking under dolls house on Google, there are a lot of sticky back carpets for this. A couple of pounds a sheet.Various colours.If you want leather at any stage, try Pittards web site. Great selection.http://www.pittardsleather.co.uk/ Leather skins/ leather hides. Under Leather Skins.http://www.dollshouse.com/ under Décor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 After a long work related hiatus I'm back to building the Bugatti. The broken brake pedal has been replaced. A big thank you to Peter at Pocher Parts for helping me with the par. He provides an invaluable service to the Pocher community with this giant stash of parts for the classic kits. First up the long delayed wheel picture. Below can see the final appearance with the MMC rings. The Bugatti wheels consist of three plastic "layer cakes" and a metal rim that are screwed together. The screws need to be flat with the metal rim or else they create a bulge in the wheel. I caught most of them, but think one or two squeaked by. Next up are the brake cables. I decided not to attempt to make the brakes functional. I used the kit supplied string and crushed 3/32 pipe to tie the ends off. The lines are somewhat noticeable in the below pic. The exhaust is also fully installed. A note to other builders, test the fit of the headers prior to attaching the engine to the frame. I didn't do it earlier and it was a bit of pain test fit with the engine installed. The pins on the header are too long and need to be shaved down. It can be done this late in the build, but would've been much easier before. At this point I believe I'm largely done with frame. Next up is the dashboard. I need to make some adjustments to accommodate the MMC levers and add a self adhesive burl wood veneer to the dash. Then its on to the body. I'm both excited and scared about tackling the body. Reading the other classic builds on this forum, the body fit seems to be the most challenging part of these kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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