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Mercedes 500K-AK Cabriolet (Pocher)


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Do you have a picture of how much it's deformed? Did you get it from MMC? If you did you can ask Marvin the best way to fix it or ask for a replacement and send this one back. I've had some things that needed to be exchanged and he took care of it right away.

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Thanks Wayne.

I don't have a photo at present.

It didn't come from MMC. It was an eBay purchase from a local supplier I have used several times before.

If you imagine a square bent into an arch. The centre of the arch is 5/32 inch off the deck.

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All I can think of off the top of my head, would be to put it between two things that are smooth and flat and either put weight on it or clamp it to keep pressure on it for a while. Other than that you might need to heat it up and do the same thing.

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All I can think of off the top of my head, would be to put it between two things that are smooth and flat and either put weight on it or clamp it to keep pressure on it for a while. Other than that you might need to heat it up and do the same thing.

Thanks Wayne,

I've had it between two pieces of plywood for a couple of days with some weight on, as I thought the same,but it still curls up.

I don't really want to heat it, as the mesh is very fine and I have visions of it melting as the stainless steel is quite thick.

Regards

Keith.

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Thanks Wayne,

I've had it between two pieces of plywood for a couple of days with some weight on, as I thought the same,but it still curls up.

I don't really want to heat it, as the mesh is very fine and I have visions of it melting as the stainless steel is quite thick.

Regards

Keith.

Think you should contact Marvin Keith. I'm sure he can help. These are expensive parts. Any repair you try, no matter how careful. will leave evidence. You don't want to look at the nose of your car and see a blemish...

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He didn't get it from Marvin

OOPS! my mistake Keith, I missed that. If you can't get resolution from your seller, you have nothing to lose.

I'd try to 'reflex' the part, meaning CAREFULLY bend it past its damage and try to get it to come back to its correct shape. No heat. Maybe work it over the edge of some dense foam like garage floor mats so as not to scuff it or kink it.

Please report back the outcome.

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  • 2 months later...

This one has been quiet for some time.

How's it going???

Roy.

Hi Roy, I have made some progress, but other projects have caused this one to be put back a little, I am hoping to get back to it this week with the start of the wheels.

Wayne, as Neil has shown the Axle stands were an eBay purchase.

Regards

Keith.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good Evening Gents,

Here is the next update.

First up we have the completed radiator and grille in position, this has caused me several headaches along the way as the assembly of this is a bit vague. I also decided to add a photo etch piece to the front as the original plastic offering from pocher was shocking to say the least. the assembly is fitted to the chassis but require final adjustment and hose connections after I have finalised the body panel positions.

IMG_5371.jpg

Next up we have the wheels, I have not been looking forward to this part of the build as I have heard many horror stories about the assembly process.
First of all you have two hard plastic pieces that have to fit one inside the other. these required a lot of adjustment and sanding to fit together properly.

IMG_5366.jpg

Next a metal ring is added before the two plastic pieces are fitted together, this also carries the air valve which can just be seen at the 9 o'clock position.

IMG_5364.jpg

Then we come to the fun part. the back side spokes and ferrules are added, as you can see below the spokes are in pairs in the form of a bent piece of wire, these are too long and have to be bent to inter twine with every other spoke, the ferrules can also be seen in this photo, one for each spoke.

IMG_5367.jpg

Each pair of spokes and ferrules are placed in the grooves on the plastic wheel rings, they have to be left loose at this stage so the other spokes can be laced in. I found holding them with Tamiya tape was the only way to keep them in place.

IMG_5369.jpg

The back side of the wheel with the spoke in place.

IMG_5372.jpg

Next the ferrules are fitted into the plastic ring, i found the best way to do this was with a soldering Iron, warming them slightly then pushing them in.

IMG_5373.jpg

Once this is completed the outer and inner rings are added, I also added the brass inner parts of the wheel at this time to help clamp the wheel together will the glue was setting.

IMG_5375.jpg

Next time we will be assembling the front side of the wheels.


Best Regards

Keith

Edited by Mpfiend
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Hi.

I place my ferrules exactly over the final position and just gently warm solder iron them down so they bed in and everything sits nicely without the need of tape.

Have you slightly bent them to cross each other without tension.

I also cut a 1mm off some and they sit beautifully.

Perhaps my way is wrong and it may be better to push the ferrules up to the desired spot but Hey. it works for me.

Fantastic build and you are a master modeller.

I salute you.......

I still hate the picture loading process and cant get to grips with photo bucket and the rest ??????

I am just finishing the alfa Dinner jacket and it is my fav.....

Keep posting and one day I may master this picture loading.....

Pocher maniac.

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I don't think that there is a right way or wrong way on doing the wire spoke and ferrules. They are finicky and whatever works for you to get the desired results is OK. I'm glad to see you back on your Mercedes; I was beginning to wonder what happened. I also had some fit issues with the PE rad screen, mainly getting it centered and lining up with the center piece of the grill shell. It's looking good and now that you are past the wheels things should pick up for a while until you get to paint and interior.

I over complicated mine and it took way too long. Hopefully you'll get through it quicker.

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Great to see you in action Keith. As Neil and Wayne have said, any way you find that works for you is fine. I too had to use the heat method on the ferrules because of the brittle plastic on my Rolls. Took an age but got great final results. Wayne had similar trying issues with the rad fitment so he's the guy to learn from.

And Neil, if you are advanced enough to build a Dinner Jacket Coupe, you can load pix in a jiffy. I'm really sad we didn't get to see it going together with tips and troubles from you. :weep:

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Hi.

I place my ferrules exactly over the final position and just gently warm solder iron them down so they bed in and everything sits nicely without the need of tape.

Have you slightly bent them to cross each other without tension.

I also cut a 1mm off some and they sit beautifully.

Perhaps my way is wrong and it may be better to push the ferrules up to the desired spot but Hey. it works for me.

Fantastic build and you are a master modeller.

I salute you.......

I still hate the picture loading process and cant get to grips with photo bucket and the rest ??????

I am just finishing the alfa Dinner jacket and it is my fav.....

Keep posting and one day I may master this picture loading.....

Pocher maniac.

Thanks very much Neil, I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat as they say.

I hope you get your photos sorted I would really like to see your progress on the dinner jacket.

Keith.

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I don't think that there is a right way or wrong way on doing the wire spoke and ferrules. They are finicky and whatever works for you to get the desired results is OK. I'm glad to see you back on your Mercedes; I was beginning to wonder what happened. I also had some fit issues with the PE rad screen, mainly getting it centered and lining up with the center piece of the grill shell. It's looking good and now that you are past the wheels things should pick up for a while until you get to paint and interior.

I over complicated mine and it took way too long. Hopefully you'll get through it quicker.

Thanks very much for looking in Wayne.

Keith.

Great to see you in action Keith. As Neil and Wayne have said, any way you find that works for you is fine. I too had to use the heat method on the ferrules because of the brittle plastic on my Rolls. Took an age but got great final results. Wayne had similar trying issues with the rad fitment so he's the guy to learn from.

And Neil, if you are advanced enough to build a Dinner Jacket Coupe, you can load pix in a jiffy. I'm really sad we didn't get to see it going together with tips and troubles from you. :weep:

Thanks very much Mr C

Regards

Keith.

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Good Evening Gentlemen,

Here is another update,

Continuing on with the wheels, the wheel balance weights were added to the front side of the wheel, 7 weights for each wheel. these again had to be positioned with a soldering iron, the once set had to be recessed to allow the outer ring to fit correctly.

IMG_5376.jpg

Next up were the front spokes and ferrules, these were fitted the same way as before, trim, bend, fit ferrules then fit.

IMG_5377.jpg


Here we see the first completed unpainted wheel. Only five more to go. then the headache of fitting the tyres.

IMG_5379.jpg

Thats it for now,

Best Regards

Keith.

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Keith, the MMC tires are extremely easy on and off because they're so pliable. If you'd rather not spend for them, the kit tires can be soaked in fairly warm water to soften them and make them more compliant.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good afternoon Gentlemen,

Here is the next update for you.

The remaining five wheels have now been assembled.

IMG_5380.jpg

The Pocher tyres as some of you know are very hard and difficult to fit, also they do not sit correctly on the wheels leaving gaps and generally spoiling the appearance of a very nice wheel, so with that in mind I took some advice and ordered one of MMC's very nice replacements to see what they were like.
The reason I only ordered one at this stage is because I have not yet decided whether to go with white walls or not and I also haven't decided whether to paint the wheels gloss black.

IMG_5381.jpg

In the same delivery I had the MMC Mercedes resin seat set, again, the Pocher seats are just not up to muster. these I hope will be covered in leather once the fitting stages are complete.

IMG_5383.jpg

The Pocher seat frames need to be used to mount the resin seats, so work has started on these.

IMG_5384.jpg

And a quick mock up of the seats in place, some alignment still needs to be completed. I also want to change the colour of the carpet to black, so this will have to be taken into account whilst laying out the interior.

IMG_5386.jpg

Finally for today we have the colour choices I have made, Black carpets, Ox Blood red leather and Dakota grey paintwork (this is an Audi colour but don't tell any one.) As i said before I still haven't decided on white wall or black tyres yet.

IMG_5388.jpg

Thanks for looking in

Best Regards

Keith

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Keith,

Those are the same (front) seats I bought to use in my Rolls.They are beautifully cast with no pinholes. By sanding on 100 grit, I changed their back angles and cushion slants as well as rounded the contours. I removed center pleats, narrowed the wide one on a bandsaw and rejoined with epoxy. You won't because they are made for your model. Just saying they're great to work with.

677M_zpspn2s1vt3.jpg

Your color choices are spectacular and I'm jealous. The Audi gray is brilliant and the ox-blood is a sophisticated mate for it. Personally I'd go with blackwalls to match the sophisticated overall presentation.

But you're doing fine without my input - carry on !.

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Nice color choice Keith! I was originally going to go with the black tires on mine but, after looking at it with them I decided that the whitewalls were the way to go for me. It came down to the cream interior and, it just didn't look right with black tires. In your case the black might be a better choice but, the difference between the two tires on the car dramatically changes the look. What you might try is to paint one of the kit tires with a whitewall and see what the difference would look like and see which you like the best. Those MMC tires sure make a difference, don't they? I wish they made a resin seat for my roadster but, then again it was a molded in seat that I cut out. Looking good Keith! I'm sure Codger is happy that you're back as he's going through severe Pocher withdrawals!

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That is a great color combo! Where did you find the Dakota grey paint? I am looking for a particular shade of blue for my build and curious who carries some of these automotive colors (I'm guessing you used auto and not zero paints)

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