larchiefeng Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I've never had a problem with super glue but, you could try a two part epoxy. Do the brackets represent ones with bolts going through them, if so you could also drill holes and use some brass or stainless steel bolts and nuts to aid in the holding down of your brackets. Of course this assuming there is room for it. Roy or Codger might have a different solution. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Hi Wayne, thanks for the reply, The superglue did create a strong joint, but I could pull it apart. The brackets I am hoping to move are for the front of the fenders and I think the joint maybe under a little load once the fenders are secured. I don't think I will be able to bolt them on. Thanks again. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) No, Wayne's advice seems reliable to me. Drilling for 00-90 or 0-80 bolts with washers and nuts is a fine idea, given proper access and enough surface area. I have had good success with the following. 'Plasti-I-Weld' is a plastic solvent cement which literally welds a plastic join together. Dries in about 15 seconds when glued or clamped together. 'Bondini' is a CA which has excellent grip, even metals to plastic. I also use Locktite Super Glue, 'Gel Control'. Fine for plasti and metal joins. There are several types of Gel Locktite but this one is tenacious and applies without running. Excellent for not bleeding through leather too. Like all glue-type joins, sand both mating surfaces clean and with some 'tooth'. Edited August 17, 2015 by Codger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Thanks Codger All my test joints were sanded and cleaned with added "Tooth". I'll have a look for the plast-I-weld, although this does sound similar to the tamiya extra thin cement. As with all things pocher, I'll keep experimenting until I get a satisfactory solution. Best Regards Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 No, actually they aren't the same. The Tamiya thin cement is applied after two pieces of plastic are together and bonds through capillary action. What Codger is talking about is actual plastic welding cement like Tenex 7R, Here is a picture of the bottle I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Ok thanks Wayne I'll check it out. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Good Evening Gentlemen, Here is another update for you.I am still working through getting the body parts all to fit together with the doors, Chassis and fenders. whilst fitting the fenders for the umpteenth time I realised that two of the mounting brackets were incorrectly placed by the kit manufacturer. this is described in the image below which comes from the Paul Koo Mercedes DVD (if this needs to be removed please let me know and I will do so).Bearing this in mind I decided to fabricate two new brackets, then remove the existing ones and fit the new ones in the correct place. you will also notice I have installed part of the front suspension, this is to stop the front of the chassis from spreading out.Once this was done the fenders now line up a lot better at the front of the chassis and every thing is now starting to work out. (no photo of that part yet)Next whilst I had the chassis with nothing fitted I decided to test fit the engine and gearbox to make sure it fitted OK and no adjustments were necessary.Everything seems to line up now and the height also looks ok so the Bonnet panels will close correctly.More soon.Best RegardsKeith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 More great problem solving Keith. Very meticulous work too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 I'm keeping an eyeball on all of these wonderful Merc builds for when I start mine - still a long way off... Great stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 A much better solution than gluing the fender to the frame as suggested. Good save. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) Good afternoon Gentlemen, Here is the next update for you, work is still slowly progressing on the body work, getting everything straight and lined up, in the first two photo's I have hung the doors after sanding and trimming the doors and the body shell to allow everything to align correctly. some work is still required here to perfect the fit and shut lines but I think you will get the idea. the shut lines may appear large here but that is allow for the paint and leather which will be used to upholster the door cards later on. In the next picture you will now see that the front fender alignment is now much improved with the light bar fitted, although the light bar does require some adjustment to get it sitting straight.I am also thinking about not using the rubber filler strip that joins the two fenders where the starting handle is fitted as this doesn't seem to appear on the original cars. Lastly for this update and as another break from all of the body work, I have built up the rear differential, suspension and axles. As always thank you for following this. Best regards Keith. Edited September 6, 2015 by Mpfiend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Looking good Keith! Everything seem to be lining up nicely. A couple of notes for you here if I may. When I got the firewall on with the engine in the chassis I ran into some interference with the horn bell hitting the air cleaner so, watch for that when you get there. Also make sure your firewall is completely assembled before bolting it to the frame, I didn't for whatever reason and had to take it apart to do that. I think I got ahead of myself and went off script and it cost me a lot of time. I am also playing around with the headlight bar today and I don't like the stamped metal piece in the kit & MMC doesn't have one available. I'm going to try two things with that part to beef it up a bit. My first idea is to make a new one out of aluminum bar stock and second I thought about filling the back channel of the bar with solder. I will let you know how each turns out. I will hopefully be posting an update on my thread later. Didn't mean to highjack your thread but our builds are fairly closely aligned. Yours is looking much better than mine at this point so keep up the good work you're doing a job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 All looking very, very nice. I'm keeping all these Merc builds in my head for my eventual start on mine. Nice to see all you guys solving the problems before I get there! Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Looking good Keith! Everything seem to be lining up nicely. A couple of notes for you here if I may. When I got the firewall on with the engine in the chassis I ran into some interference with the horn bell hitting the air cleaner so, watch for that when you get there. Also make sure your firewall is completely assembled before bolting it to the frame, I didn't for whatever reason and had to take it apart to do that. I think I got ahead of myself and went off script and it cost me a lot of time. I am also playing around with the headlight bar today and I don't like the stamped metal piece in the kit & MMC doesn't have one available. I'm going to try two things with that part to beef it up a bit. My first idea is to make a new one out of aluminum bar stock and second I thought about filling the back channel of the bar with solder. I will let you know how each turns out. I will hopefully be posting an update on my thread later. Didn't mean to highjack your thread but our builds are fairly closely aligned. Yours is looking much better than mine at this point so keep up the good work you're doing a job! Hi Wayne, Thanks for looking in, I'll heed your advice about the firewall thank you. I too was looking at the light bar thinking that it wasn't really upto muster. I was considering making one from brass tube, but I'm not too sure how it would turn out. It really is a shame that MMC do not make a replacement. I'll look forward to reading your next update. Best regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 All looking very, very nice. I'm keeping all these Merc builds in my head for my eventual start on mine. Nice to see all you guys solving the problems before I get there! Roy. Thanks for looking in Roy. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 A question if I may. What sort of clearance or gap do you Gents allow when fitting panels that will later on have paint, leather or upholstery added. I have been pondering this today whilst once again tinkering with the fit of my doors. I look forward to reading your thoughts. Best regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) A question if I may. What sort of clearance or gap do you Gents allow when fitting panels that will later on have paint, leather or upholstery added. I have been pondering this today whilst once again tinkering with the fit of my doors. I look forward to reading your thoughts. Best regards Keith. I don't know if I'm right but currently, I'm at .020 - .023 on the doors Keith. A good way to gauge (pun intended) your progress is by using a feeler gauge. The first few coats of primer will tell you a lot. You can always sand down multiple coats to just one layer on those thin edges and jambs. Edited September 14, 2015 by Codger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I'm using a micrometer to get the thickness of the leather I'm using along with any added plastic card or anything that might be inside the leather if and or when folded over. If it's going to be folded over for a clean edge then double the measurement on the leather or just take the measurement of the folded over leather and card. Paul gave me a piece of 0.010" thick plastic card to use inside the leather on the fold over and it's just enough to provide a gluing surface and not so thick that it creates a gap problem, Allowing for the paint thickness kind of really depends on what type of paint and how many coats. I'm afraid I may have a small issue because of the enamel being somewhat thicker than say a lacquer or acrylic. I personally am going to probably finish the doors with paint and upholstery and make any small adjustment with the jamb before painting the body. So, now having said that, I need to put the paint away and not paint the body yet, as I was thinking about doing later this week. This, is what I was referring to in my post to Codger's Rolls. I think I need to sit down and go over everything left to be done and make a list in the sequence in which should happen before I go any further, thanks for making me think about this. This is again what we've all been saying about the thought process on the big scale cars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks for the replies Gentlemen, I was thinking along the lines of about .020-.030 myself as I think some of the panels will require some filler primer to get them looking flat and straight,ready for paint. I am planning a black/graphite and silver colour scheme for this one, and any imperfection will show up on a black finish as you all know. Best Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Where are you talking about using the plastic card? I'm only using the 0.010 card where the leather rolls over the top of the door panel from the inside to the exterior. This is only applicable to the roadster that I'm working on where I need to keep it as thin as possible. I might also use it on the body above the dash in order to keep it thin and maintain a clean edge. I definitely am with you on the black paint job needing the panels to be perfect. So far I've color sanded each at least three times and each time it gets a little better but, with the enamel there is a longer wait time between each sanding and paint session. If nothing else working on the Pochers teach you patience. Hang in there its looking good and it just gets better as you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Hi Wayne, The 0.20-0.30 I was talking about was the panel gaps I'm allowing on the doors and hood. Not a thickness of Plasticard Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Got it, that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Good day Gentlemen, Work is still progressing on my build, I am currently working on the hood panels, they are requiring quite a bit of adjustment to get a decent fit to the body, I have had to add some plastic card to the edges to increase the length as the seem to have shrunk a little over time. also the cut outs for the metal grilles are not very square now and this also requires some work, I'll post some more photo's of this once I'm further along. I have placed another order with Marvin at MMC for the windscreen mounts and door furniture, so once that shows up I'll be able to look at fitting those parts too. I have also now taken delivery of my second Pocher Kit, the K75 Rolls Royce Phantom 2 Torpedo from Peter at Pocher Parts, the kit is the older version and is in superb condition, I am really happy with it. Peter really does provide a superb service to the Pocher community and I can highly recommend dealing with him for any parts or kits that you require. As always thank you for following my build. Best regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 I have to second your comments on Peter. He has been tremendously helpful with parts for my Bugatti. He has been a real pleasure to do business with. Looking forward to your future Torpedo build! I have one of the recent issue kits stashed away myself. I heard the silver plastic fenders are much nicer on the older version. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Hello Gentlemen, A quick update for you this evening but no photos yet. I had a care package arrive from Marvin at MMC containing the windscreen kit, wipers, exhaust brackets and engine side cover grilles. I have fitted the windscreen posts and they look so much better than the pressed tin version supplied by Pocher. I am still fighting the engine side covers trying to get a decent fit, so much so that I contacted Peter at Pocher Parts today to try and source a replacement set. Hopefully I'll get some photo's taken and an update for you tomorrow. Best Regards Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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