Jump to content

MODEL FACTORY HIRO 1/20 GV's FERRARI 312T4 1979 MONACO GRAND PRIX


Recommended Posts

I just LOVE working on these kits and,generally speaking, on F1 cars!A/C and AFVs simply got me burnt out big time...I was sick and tired with weathering,chipping,Federal Standards,RLMs and all that jazz!Building cars and bikes is like being part of a Wheelers Dealers episode...the only difference being that Ed works on "big" cars...we works on smaller ones that won't go "Wroooom"!I've been into sportscars for the best part of the last 30 years and I've been fortunate enough to work on,drive and own very nice cars and now I'm doing the same on cars that are 12 to 20 times smaller but the fun is always there!
Cheers
Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 3000cc V12 Tipo 15 Engine is beautifully detailed but it's not easily built.A part from the fact that each and every hole for the locating pins must be drilled (not the most difficult chore!),my sump and the upper part of the engine block had a five-dimensional warping to them...Miss Hiro supplied me with a spare sump but there must be something wrong with the mold in that it was worse than the original part.Again,thank God the white-metal is (sort of) easily pressed (read wrestled) into shape!

That warping caused me a few head-scratching but in the end I had a fairly nice replica.The sump is a little undersized and there are unsightly gaps that can be easily dealt with a little automotive putty,or left as they are since they'll remain out of sight once the engine will be at its place but since you never know..... :coolio:
P7051277_zpsacifqhwy.jpg
P7051278_zpsue5x9aut.jpg
P7051279_zpszl8xepwi.jpg
P7051280_zpsbc6pqsrm.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little sanding,scraping and buffing here and there will get rid of unwanted ridges and misalignments,while a few passes of heavily diluted Mr. Surfacer 500 will "blend" and fill thin gaps,scratches,pitting and holes.I haven't used already available 1200 or 1000 because the 500's pigments are bigger...diluting it will only help spreading it better or filling the gaps with a pointed brush more easily!
mot%20fin%204_zpsguxbfdgu.jpg
mot%20fin%203_zpsgghvphdj.jpg
mot%20fin%202_zpsnlxm4zc2.jpg
mot%20fin%201_zps3kqyqkau.jpg
mot%20fin%206_zpsohjkghew.jpg
mot%20fin%205_zpst6kkmx6e.jpg

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While your workmanship is top shelf, MFH takes fantastic pains to cast those parts as the prototypes.

Your block and heads look like they are sitting on a palette at the Maranello foundry. One of the few kit mfgrs whose product is worth the very expensive cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your kind words Codger!
These kits are really great and they build quite effortlessly to boot!You must plan everything beforehand though,since once the suspensions,engine,tranny etc will be glued there won't be no turning back!
All parts need to be cleaned and holes must be drilled thru the metal but as strange as it may seem while I'd have surely binned an Aircraft or AFV kit after cleaning/polishing the first two pieces and drilling the first hole I must say that doing that on a model car is relaxing and fun!
Having been into sportscars for a very long time does help methink!
Cheers
Manu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"And the build goes ooon..." :cowboy::guitar:
I've glued a few more parts to the engine and secured the latter to the monocoque with the supplied 1,6x6mm screw,at least they say that the diameter of the screw is 1,6mm...while in fact it's 1,5!!!It pays CHECKING CAREFULLY each locatin pin/peg and screw with a Venier in order to use EXACTLY the right drill bit,especially so for the screws, since once a hole wider than the screw has been drilled there's no other solution than filling in the offending hole with solder and work from there...not an easy thing on smaller and delicate or intricate parts!
The polished monocoque has started tarnishing and apart from that it just doesn't look right with the painted rear wall and gas tanks..I'll polish it again,degrease it with brake cleaner,give it a coat of ZERO clear and mist some Alclad Polished Aluminum and Chrome on top to blend the lot...wish me luck!
Cheers
Manu
P7061269_zpsm39mxcsr.jpg
P7061270_zpswvvthbft.jpg
P7061271_zpshfkqgoa8.jpg
P7061272_zps3ees07rv.jpg
P7061273_zpslupkyuyf.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a side note at first I wanted to drill each "rivet" on the gas tanks and rear wall and shave off all the molded-in nuts and bolts and use SS rivets and SS and brass nuts and bolts,but I'll save it for my next build!This s my first foray into model cars and I'd rather keep it simple and as much OOB as I possibly can!
For those who can't live with the "divots" on the gas tanks and rear wall there's a simple solution...well,let's make two!First would be smearing some putty on the parts and into the "rivets",wipe off the surplus and have shallower negative rivets.The second,more realistic solution would be filling the neagative rivets altogether and use some HGW and/or Archer rivets.At first I wanted to do that on the monocoque as well,sanding off the siorta underscaled and too pointed rivets and use Archer's instead!
I've extensively used the latter inside my FW 190 D-9 wheel wells and they definitely look great.;EACH single rivet is an Archer....you be the judge!
Cheers
Manu
P5301274_zpsuek14sbc.jpg
P5301271_zpsjvyid9tc.jpg

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've proceeded to temporarily fix the undertray to the monocoque and the fit is absolutely first-rate.Just make sure to align the holes of the undertray with the matching holes on the monocoque and you're good to go....just be careful not to overtighten the screws to avoid stripped threads!
I've seen lots of otherwise beautifully built cars with a gap between the upper and the lower bodies therefore,instead of building this car "from the ground up" I've decided to build it "from the roof down"!
The fit of the two halves is almost perfect (gotta clean the last traces of the points where they were attached to the sprues) and if a gap will start developing it'll be oviously due to something I've done the wrong way or to a part standing too proud that got unnoticed.This is a very important step,since the sides house the radiators and other substantial parts and I'll be much better off correcting mistakes and misalignments this way than asking myself LATER the reason why I've got that nice gap!
P7061271_zpsrpscuiav.jpg
P7061269_zpsv3mn5vnh.jpg
P7061272_zpsaqjeln6x.jpg
P7061279_zpsxnbptfb1.jpg
P7061283_zpsedn1weqs.jpg
P7061282_zpsbi6hphts.jpg
P7061280_zpsq1xbimfu.jpg
P7061268_zpsixk2tdcc.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The instructions are great and easily followed but apart from the erratic colors suggestions there's an odd mistake I've encountered on step 17 and that I'd like to point out to the ones wishing to build this very model.There's a note telling you that "the part M2 is used only when you want to display the monocoque only with the undertray and side pontoon"!Now..I've been living in Italy for a few decades and that has surely affected my English somehow still that note is quite puzzling,to me at least,In fact part M2 is but the center of the plastic undertray cast in white metal and if you even try to slip the undertray under the front suspension with the part M2 underneath it you'll pry the whole front suspension and distort the delicate parts!
P7061274_zpsx7plxq8x.jpg
P7061273_zpsozrz4w1k.jpg

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely,Colin!And the 1/12 kits are even better!
The quality is outstanding but be prepared to find all the parts mixed up in little zip-lock bags.Before starting the build I'd suggest to carefully lay all the parts on the table,sort them out and put them in the bags following the assembly stages,this way you'll have all the pieces handy without loosing time looking for them!
You want to go from this:

P7071268_zpszyhjaazu.jpg

To THIS:

P7071268%202_zps69v6pwzh.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a few kits with metal parts and never liked the quality of the castings. Always wanted to do one of these though, so are they good quality ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roughly how many parts in your kit Canuk? Do you know?

Hi Codger,

1/20 and 1/12 kits sure consist of several hundreds parts but I've never counted them!The 1/20 kits are simpler but the parts count is very high nonetheless!

the 1/12 Lotus 79 above comes with several hundreds rivets that will add to the count and that must be glued to the monocoque once you've drilled the locating holes........a ROYAL PITA! :whistle:

I've had a few kits with metal parts and never liked the quality of the castings. Always wanted to do one of these though, so are they good quality ?

I hear you Noeyedears!Many white metal kits have parts that are roughly cast and not very detailed,but the MFH are another story,especially the ones made from 2010 onwards.In some cases the parts show some pitting but the quality is very,very high and,in many cases,sublime!

I strongly recommend to get one of these "Hybrid" kits for they're great value for money,still I don't understand why they don't make them in resin,at least those parts that won't have to bear heavy loads or handling.Several 1/12 MFH kits come with bodies and engine blocks made of exquisite white resin castings,especially the Ferrari 126C series.The Lotus 78/79 comes with a resin body but the monocoque,engine (with interior detail) and suspensions are all made of white metal!

Consider that a 1/20 Fujimi Ferrari 126C2/CK/2000 or a Tamiya/Hasegawa Lotus 78/79 would need quite a few AM sets to be brought to these standards, and that alone could and would easily set you back a pretty penny,read a few hundred quids all in.The kit I'm currently working on can be bought for under €157 (£112) here:

http://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=34&products_id=16960 (scroll down to see a real feast for the eyes!)

It comes with everything you need;i.e a very detailed engine,transmission and suspensions,Tamigawish plastic parts,machined aluminum rims,rubber tires,vacuformed windscreen,fabric seatbelts,turned aluminum shock absorbers and velocity stacks,a comprehensive PE set,a beautifully cast aluminum monocoque,piping for the spark plugs etc...definitely great value!Unfortunately when these 1/20 Ferraris will be sold out they won't be available anymore,since Hiro-san has privileged the 1/12 kits and stopped paying Ferrari Auto SpA the royalties for the 1/20 312s and the 1/20 126s, amongst the others!If you're into Lotuses and such you'll be one happy camper though,for you'll have the embarassment of riches!

HTH

Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks fir the excellent reply, Manu, they should give you a job at MFH in their sales department !

I have tamiyas 1/12 lotus 72d and was looking into getting the frighteningly expensive accustion upgrades, maybe I'll look into getting a MFH kit instead. I have many kits but want one standout model. I'm considering pochers ducati when it comes out so maybe a MFH kit would be an option instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks fir the excellent reply, Manu, they should give you a job at MFH in their sales department !

I have tamiyas 1/12 lotus 72d and was looking into getting the frighteningly expensive accustion upgrades, maybe I'll look into getting a MFH kit instead. I have many kits but want one standout model. I'm considering pochers ducati when it comes out so maybe a MFH kit would be an option instead.

LOL....I'd work for kits! :D

Acu Stion upgrades are a little like the proverbial curate's egg,but if I were you I'd buy from them directly and avoid those European dealers who sell with absurdly inflated prices!If you go on their site you'll find a retailer in Singapore whose prices are quite good!

That said,that's exactly what I wanted to do...i.e. buildind a superdetailed 1/20 Lotus 79 with E Jan,Acu,Top Studio,Studio 27 and other upgrades...and that would have set me back a whopping £300....I binned the idea when I managed to buy a 1/12 MFH for €350 including shipping! :rolleyes:

Too bad MFH only made three Ferraris following the "Hybrid" formula,which ensured an unsurpassed level of detail for half the price of your "regular" MFH 1/20 kit!

If you like 70s and 80s Ferraris give this kit a try because it builds effortlesly and comes with everything you need to build a winner!I've linked you to Spotmodel because it's the e-shop with the best price on these 1/20 kits but one or two of them can be found chez Uli at Autograph Models http://shop.autographmodel.com/Model-Factory-Hiro-1/20-car-model-kit-IK02-Ferrari-312T4-Monaco-GP... I see now he's asking €149!

Cheers

Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Fantastic work on a great kit!

Seeing this reminds me that me (stalled) build of that kit is somewhere on here! At least I now have th inspiration to take a peek inside the box to see where I got to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow just had a look at the link you gave, thought the detail on this was good but those 1/12 kits are pricy but the detail is fantastic

Hi Colin,

this kit it's a beaut but I cannot wait to start my 1/12 Ferrari 126C4 or my 1/12 Lotus 79!

Cheers

Manu

Fantastic work on a great kit!

Seeing this reminds me that me (stalled) build of that kit is somewhere on here! At least I now have th inspiration to take a peek inside the box to see where I got to.

Hi Mark,

your very WIP,amongst the others, whetted my appetite towards car modelling!Can't wait to see you working on it again!Thank you so much for appreciating my work so far!

Cheers

Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...