Martian Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Nice work as always Louis, I always look forward to your posts as they are very inspirational. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Missed this til now, but it's excellent; I love that engine (& the gun isn't exactly rubbish, either) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) Thank you !Hello.Someone can tell us if the "yellowish varnishes" which seems to cover these engines were applied consistently? I do not remember seeing it on other engines ... Regards Edited November 24, 2015 by Louis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Most likely a protective varnished that has yellowed over time. My 2 ! Christian, exiled to the dark place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) Hello!The engine mounting ends slowly ...The cylinders are bonded in the holes. Missing bolts at the base of the cylinders. Pipes are plastic, the collars are made of "cotton bud" stretched.The copper tubing is stretched plastic.24 candles are stretched plastic. I lost a few along the way. I also lost valve springs ... The vertical rod at the back should be against the last cylinder. Too bad for her.The aluminum structure is a cylinder on evergreen 1 mm rod with rings of metal tape. The engine block is in "white aluminum" Alclad but it shines too. The matt varnish is nothing changed. Cylinders and are skated with him "engine grime" from AK.Regards. Edited December 29, 2015 by Louis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Well...24 rocker arms and 20 of wire plugs (missing the 4 front).... I see you coming, rockers arms are not well "settled".Well too bad !!!Happy new year!Regards. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) More stunning craftsmanship, Louis. That engine is starting to look very lifelike! Happy New Year to you too! Ian Edited January 13, 2016 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 The engine is looking just fine and is going to look splendid when finished. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thank you very much.Hello.Fixing the motor (syringe)4 ignition coils:The candles cables, will merit a little color. Regards. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Your updates are truly inspirational. Martn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Thank you! Hello,The cabin is closed.The rivets of the kits are too big (white) ... I have plugged and sanded. I redid them with "surfacing" and with a stencil. If it does not work I will use rivets decals but it's not cheap ... The stencil used on the flank are thinner and are pierced with a needle in an aluminum foil (food tray). Once pierced I sand a little stencil to remove the bulges around the holes. as the holes have a rounded shape.Not sure we see them after painting ...">Stencils on the picture (plastic 0.2 mm) are those used in front of the plane, the holes are drilled with a drill 0.3mm. Several passages (7 or 8?) Airbrush are needed to obtain enough rivets marked. As it dries very quickly this is done quickly.The smoother side of the stencil is brought in contact with the flank of the aircraft.- The stencil aluminum is easy to clean and reuse the rivet but remains flat.- The plastic it deforms quickly because the diluent.- With a transparent stencil it would be easier to position.- It works much better with a new stencil, clean.">A + 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 What a great idea for the rivets, they look fantastic! Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Hello!The landing gear are re-cut to size (I hope):I used the plane of the kit I expanded to the length of the fuselage match that of the kit.">">">The hole for attaching the front landing gear ...">The tanks are detailed. Above the cap. Below, the mouthpiece through which released a pipe, on the side that I think is the gauge. I made a little too large.Too bad, we will see better.So there will be in the central disk with a black dial needle and graduations. I just hope to have interpreted the pictures correctly.If anyone knows more about this ...">">I found this painting dated 1918:"> http://pierrebayle.typepad.com/pensees_sur_la_planete/2014/10/aviateurs-et-guerriers.htmlA short video sequence (at the end) of a Voisin X or VIII :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM3bs-seargThere were videos with planes (among others) from the same period://www.youtube.com/user/footagefarm/search?query=ww1+plane&nohtml5=FalseAnd there the instruments of edges of the first world war. http://www.aviation-14-18.fr/aviation-fran%C3%A7aise/instruments-de-bord/]http://www.aviation-14-18.fr/aviation-fran%C3%A7aise/instruments-de-bord/Regards Edited April 22, 2016 by Louis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 The new strut of the tail (1 mm diameter):Vertical upright must all be sanded (a lot) and sometimes recut.The new windshield is glued. The transparent plate used to assemble the windshield with the rest of the pod to form a pretty solid set. On the transparent plate I plan to add the trap made of plastic sheet. That of the photo is a test. Regards. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 - The "setting and operating instructions" for Voisin X with a description of the paints applied on aluminum Voisin.http://www.avialogs.com/index.php/aircraft/france/avions-voisin/type-x/notice-de-reglage-de-demontage-et-d-entretien-d-un-avion-voisin-type-x.html- A description of the manual describing the camouflage of the Voisin:http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19444Anyone know what a black optical dope and optical red dope (Acellos brand)? A black varnish and a red varnish???And, since it will rain all the weekend:An article (in pdf) speaking about cellulose acetate varnish used in aviation ( Acellos brand, Nauton and brothers. Marsac). In french...https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0ahUKEwi_3L7qrLfMAhWMI8AKHezeBrgQFgg4MAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.societechimiquedefrance.fr%2FIMG%2Fpdf%2Fa_3_600_000.vfx2_sav.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHSTUmk6fs_kf5s95mLOTBLFUIlwA&sig2=bTiwBmh6XCyZe4f3yYCReQ&cad=rjaRegards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Pleased to see this kit making slow but impressive progress! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Thank you.The upper wing, so long that it bends. It was passed to the steel wool and painted with surfacer..The top of the wings will be painted as specified in the manual." The wings:under surfaces: 1 coat of clear dope (No. 1), 2 coats of optical black dope and 1 finishing coat of clear dope (No. 3); The roundels are painted with paint Ripolin under the lower wing.Upper surfaces: 1 coat of clear dope (No. 1), 1 coat of optical black dope, 1 coat of red optical dope (a semi translucent color) and 1 finishing coat of clear dope.No roundels on upper wing, flat tail and rudder, at least on the manual.Since we do not-have wings for the Voisin 10, I can not tell you what color the upper shoulds looks like, goal It Would be interesting to try it a panel, I'll think about it!"So:- A clear coat on the canvas.- An "optical black" layer (translucent black) so black paint ...- An "optical red" layer (translucent red), varnish mixed with red.This gives a chocolate hue ... which obviously changes depending on the proportion of red (on the test picture below: red 1/3 or 1 red varnish / varnish 1). The lighter shade is due to the varnish which "laundered". Darkest are black. Regards Edited May 2, 2016 by Louis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 Black paint:Mr Hobby HO77 black tire + sail H085 (10%, 30 %, 0%) The same but other light:The underside of the wing will look like this. A lot of pictures of aircraft:Farman, Breguet, Voisin etchttp://argonnaute.u-paris10.fr/search?query=aviation Regards Regards 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 (edited) Hello,The top of the wing:1 X red+ 3 X clear + 12 x thinner . At least 5 or 6 layers on the blackThe surface is not terrible. the varnish does not help. I will put satin varnish, may be.Before:The cocardes are made with stencilled. Blue is too clear. The red a bit dark too. Regards Edited May 19, 2016 by Louis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Hello! Make rivets ( "as" those sold by Archer): To move and to avoid any destroy for errors I made them on a piece of very thin decal (FFSMC here).The stencil is attached to a length (top of photo). On the other (bottom) I put a ruler to the stencil is resting on the piece of decal.Several passages with surfacer mr Hobby ... (9 round trip ...) are required to obtain enough rivets marked. ">Stencils on the photo (plastic 0.2 mm) are drilled at 0.3mm drill. The gap between each rivet is 1.5 mm.We go the full length aero well perpendicular to the stencil. The layer should be smooth so that all rivets have the same height. The smoothest side of the stencil is placed in contact with the piece of decal.I remove the stencil when finished so they do not stick the stencil:">It works much better with a new and clean stencil. As the plastic melts with the solvent not about cleaning. I pumice to remove the surfacer and give a helping drill into each hole. It is more quickly (believe me) than rewriting a stencil. 5min to clean one in the photo.">Regards 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 (edited) The windshield is finished: Alas, all glass parts are prominent.So I cut (in sheets for "overhead projector") and twisted the two glass parts They are then glued to the windshield with glue that hardens under the action of UV.The edge of the "bathtub" is stuck: Regards Edited July 9, 2016 by Louis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 More very nice work, Loius. Those rivets in particular have come out very nicely! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Super work! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I've just played catch-up with this thread, and all I've got to say is So much scratch-building at an infinitesimal scale that I couldn't begin to contemplate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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