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1/8 Aston Martin DBR1


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No developments to show regarding the body shell parts just yet...

I've re-shaped the cam covers somewhat, as the Eaglemoss parts are laughable.

The timing chain end has been thinned, the cam cover rounded and the bolt recesses cut in.

They are now cast in resin.

The odd resin 'patches' in the pictures are castings of small acorn nuts.

Each one needs cutting out and then fitting to the cam covers after painting.

Roy.

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Many thanks mr C...

A little update:

I've reshaped the front end of the cylinder head, altered the oil filler neck, removed the 6 plugs but left the blanking caps - as per the real DBR1 - all ready to fit 6 x 2 sets of new plugs. (12 in all)

The cam covers fit nicely, but still 32 acorn nuts to add.

I've repeated a previous picture to compare the parts 'before-after'...

Roy.

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...and how the bits were originally...

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Shame, shame on Eaglemoss...

Roy, what's best way to remove those tiny nuts from the casting sprue?

I'm still working on that - maybe just cutting them out with a sharp blade.

I'm testing a piece of sharpened small bore brass tube though, pressed down hard over each nut.

It cuts a round circle with the nut in the centre, so it looks like a nut and washer...

Push it out of the tube with a piece of rod.

Roy.

Edited by roymattblack
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I'm still working on that - maybe just cutting them out with a sharp blade.

I'm testing a piece of sharpened small bore brass tube though, pressed down hard over each nut.

It cuts a round circle with the nut in the centre, so it looks like a nut and washer...

Push it out of the tube with a piece of rod.

Roy.

Now THAT's flippin' brilliant - like all yer other ideas... :frantic:

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Thanks KP...

In answer to Mr C's question about the acorn nuts:

I decided to go with the 'tube' idea as it seems to work fairly well.

I used a short length of small-bore metal tube, sharpened one end using a needle file inside, and a flat file outside.

Put the tube over the resin nut and give a tube a tap with a pin hammer.

A short length of metal rod pushed down the other end of the tube ejects the nut, complete with its 'washer'.

I had a small bag of real miniature acorn nuts left over from my Pocher Rolls Royce Torpedo.

They were just stuck to a piece of plastic, a small wall built up around them and silicone poured in.

Once set, peel the rubber off and just a drop of resin 'scraped' over the surface.

10 minutes later, peel off a little sheet with 7 nuts on it.

Spray chrome silver, cut out - done.

FAR cheaper than buying the 50-60 acorn nuts I'm going to need for this one, and I'll no doubt use umpteen more in other builds in the future.

The 5p piece in the picture is to give scale to the size of the nuts.

Roy.

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Just a quick update on the acorn nuts.

Whilst cutting some out, I remembered that I have an assortment of hole-cutting pliers for making gauges etc.

I fished out the smallest I have - 1.5mm - and hey presto.

A perfect fit!

Chopping the nuts out now is a doddle, miles quicker and far neater.

Roy.

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I'm still working on that - maybe just cutting them out with a sharp blade.

I'm testing a piece of sharpened small bore brass tube though, pressed down hard over each nut.

It cuts a round circle with the nut in the centre, so it looks like a nut and washer...

Push it out of the tube with a piece of rod.

Roy.

That's so cunning you could put a leg on each corner and call it a Weasel! :thumbsup:

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I've made the distributors - two of them, driven directly from the camshafts.

They were made from bits of plastic tube and oddments, then cast in resin so I could get two the same.

Some detail painting is still needed on them.

Wires are now attached, ready to go to the coils and the plug lead tubes that will eventually run along each side of the head.

Roy.

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Edited by roymattblack
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Roy, how do you manage to position and glue parts as small as those acorn nuts? I would have serious problems trying something that fiddly, the glue would be everywhere and the nuts would be all over the place.

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Two engines on the go now...

I'm going to build another as a 'stand alone' piece.

And you do all this while strumming a few notes with the other hand???

You have a beautiful as-cast finish on the parts as opposed to 3D printing.

Those engines are beautiful kits by themselves...

Edited by Codger
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Roy, how do you manage to position and glue parts as small as those acorn nuts? I would have serious problems trying something that fiddly, the glue would be everywhere and the nuts would be all over the place.

A good old magnifying lens/lamp...

A dot of Cyano on the cam cover where the nut will go, and then drop it in place with tweezers.

Not too difficult really. Just a tad eyeball-straining.

And Mr C...

I don't think I'll be making DBR1 engine kits in the near future.

These two are already causing hair loss...

Roy.

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The second engine is now catching up with the first.

Also, new ignition leads as the original black ones were too thin, the second set in yellow were too modern, so now they are a nice drab '50's brown. (But I've kept the coil lead yellow just for a bit of variety.)

Roy.

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Roy you're doing some serious reworking on that engine. To me the engine looked fune, but now you pount out the inaccuracies, it really is a bad job.

Can't wait to see more progress, definitely a silk purse from a sows ear moment

Matt

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I'm doing a second engine as for the vast majority of the time after a model is built and in a case, the engine cover isn't opened so the 'innards' are never seen.

This time, it WILL be seen!

So far, one head has the distributors, leads, plugs and cable tubes.

I've only placed the head on the engine to see how it looks.

It won't be attached for quite some time yet.

Roy.

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