Jump to content

Airfix Civilian VC10 + BOAC 26decals / cabin window issues


Recommended Posts

I'll soon start with an Airfix VC10 (the civilian one with the BA decals).

I was hoping to use these BOAC 26decals I bought separately but my kit seems to have the cabin windows punched out of the plastic, whereas the decals have the cabin window as an actual printed decal.

This is a problem because BOAC has the coloured strip painted down the lengh of the plane.

What is the recomended course of action here?

  • Modify the kit (fill in the windows somehow)

  • Modify the decals (cut out the window holes)

  • Buy a different kit

  • Buy different decals.

  • ... something else? :)

I emailed the guy at 26decals for advice (he should really provide some instruction or suitable decals for all kit variations) but I got no reply...

Looking forward to hearing your tips! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you dont want to fill in the windows, paint the fuselage halves apply the blue decal strip (no windows) and use the punch supplied in the kit to punch out the window openings, glue in the clear plastic windows then join the halves together and fill and sand the seam.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If use the punch supplied in the kit to punch out the window openings, glue in the clear plastic windows then join the halves together and fill and sand the seam.

Not sure I got a hole puncher in the kit. This would have been quite a nice option to consider if I had got one...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit that I would punch out the decals as was the procedure with all Airfix airliners as I think that filling the windows in gives the impression of a toy rather than a model. Interestingly, however, Airfix have gone against their policy with their recently reissued Boeing 707 in that the windows are printed on the decal strip. The windows are punched out but there is no fuselage clear parts, originally included, to fill the holes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The subject of decals versus open windows has generated a fair bit of discussion down the years, a lot of it pretty sterile and pointless. Most airliner decals include windows and if the decals are laser printed the windows will probably be printed as part of the cheatline which leaves you with no choice.

At the end of the day it's your decision - we all build in our own individual ways. I respectfully disagree with avro683 about decal windows giving the impression of a toy. To my eyes decal windows on a 1/144 model can sometimes look better than open ones, particularly if there is a prominent silver outline which is much easier to reproduce with decals than by painting.

If you do decide to use the window decals the best way to fill the kit windows is to use Milliput applied from the inside. The technique has been described many times. Have a look at Jessica's post (number 8) in this thread which she helpfully illustrates with photographs:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973286-airfix-boeing-737-200-brittania-build-1144/

Incidentally I don't think it's really fair to criticise Ray at 26 decals for not providing advice on filling windows or other modelling techniques. As I said, it's up to the individual modeller how he or she goes about things.

Edited by Skodadriver
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or if you feel up to it, paint the fuselage and tail in the correct colours and use the decal sheet for titles and registrations etc..

It's entirely up to you. I like the open window look, but for a model with a cheat line I'm increasingly leaning towards decals, especially the "3d" type (I think that's the general term for them) that have window blinds drawn and a little bit of depth to them.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you go for the 'punch out' of the decals, watch out that they actually line up with the kit openings.

Myself, I don't mind decal windows ( sorry Garry) and I have built several Glencoe Viscounts with Two-Six decals. The kit has open windows (which haven't got a good shape) so I backed the inside with plastic card before joining the halves and then filled from the outside of the windows against this. Just rub it down flush, job done.

Nige

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To fill the windows, what I would do is to glue some scrap plastic card on the insides of the fuselage halves then fill the windows on the outside. (As per reply above).That way less chance of filler falling in later on. Then continue your build as normal, such as sand the fuselage smooth. And then finish as per your choice.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Decisions decisions...

I'll give this some more thought (got a Revell Queen Mary 2 to complete first anyway).

I did not know that this was not really a problem, more like a feature or offical build-step in punching holes in decals with a cocktail stick or something similar. I would have assumed that the decals could be produced that had the holes already cut out of them - hence my unanswered query to the decal maker.

I found this other forum thread where the modeller had the same conundrum, seems like the result can look pretty good! http://uamf.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=6235&sid=90af647d47bcf65b82aafc805099b342&start=15

Thanks for all your helpful replies !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black or grey rectangles is/was one of the reasons why I wasn't overly fond of using them. The more modern way (as produced by Authentic Airliners and others), is a whole lot better I feel. Still not a great fan of them but, like i mentioned in my earlier post, if a colour scheme has a cheat line then I'm increasingly using them.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the BA version of the VC-10 was last produced around 1980 by Airfix, the kit should (and for the BA version, actually MUST) contain clear window strips - those probably being the simplest method to fill in the windows. AFAIR, the punch needed for the BOAC version remained on the sprue even though it wasn't needed for the BA scheme.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read the differing opinions re window preferences and it's obvious modellers far more experienced than me have some firm preferences. So I will add my 2 cents...

I used to punch and fit clear parts but never felt they looked close to real in 1/144 - that is until I saw Strangeways Vanguard. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234980133-airfix-1144-vickers-vanguard/

Wow! What an absolute standout model that is. He states he replaced the windows with clear resin. I assuming he is referring to the cabin windows (and not the cockpit as that looks like the kit issue to me). Those cabin windows appear so subtle and realistic it's hard to criticise anything about them.

Having said that, I would be quite happy to fill them in on my own old Vanguard kit and apply the set of Liveries Unlimited window decals I have along that fuselage cheatline. It would look just as good I believe.

I like window decals a lot more than I used to, and also state respectfully, they look so good on well made models they hardly look like toys to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The initial version of that kit was in BOAC colours and the kit included a punch to cut out the windows. The BA one of course doesn't have a cheat line so Airfix may have not included the punch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it is possible, having seen many pics, but I never, ever had any luck with that punch thingy. No matter how careful I was, there were always bits of decal dangling in the opening, or small pieces ripped off the outside, giving the finished airliner a sort of 'what the heck happened here' look. For some years I just left the solid cheat line alone, as if it were a cargo plane, as it just looked a whole lot better.

When window decals arrived, then the silver frames, then today's 'action shots' with blinds and drapes etc - well, along with the wheel and electricity, one of the greatest advances of human civilization.

The other huge advantage I find in using window decals, is during the construction process, one can really go to town with fillers and sanding, priming, fillers, sanding etc, getting rid of the seam, instead of addressing that after the cheat line is applied and the windows glued in. ( Must admit, have never tried the Clearfix type option - addressing each window separately, especially on a bigger widebody, well, that's just back breaking ).

Mainly, of course, have fun with it - try one or two each way, and be sure to post a pic when done of course.

Cheers,

Mike

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read the differing opinions re window preferences and it's obvious modellers far more experienced than me have some firm preferences. So I will add my 2 cents...

I used to punch and fit clear parts but never felt they looked close to real in 1/144 - that is until I saw Strangeways Vanguard. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234980133-airfix-1144-vickers-vanguard/

I agree about the Vanguard, but don't forget that even in 1/144 a Vanguard's windows are a fair bit bigger than a VC10's. I also have the combination of Airfix BA VC-10 & 26 BOAC decals, & personally I'll go my usual route of filling the cabin window holes, using the decals for those but keeping the clear flightdeck windows. I have no problem with decal cabin windows but don't like decal flightdeck windows at all!!

My two pence worth...

Keith

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Incidentally I don't think it's really fair to criticise Ray at 26 decals for not providing advice on filling windows or other modelling techniques. As I said, it's up to the individual modeller how he or she goes about things.

Apologies! No criticisism to your friend intented - they're really fine decals, and the fact that they even exist and are produced is awesome. But still, ignoring customer emails (no matter how dumb they may be) hardly encourages loyalty...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To fill the windows, what I would do is to glue some scrap plastic card on the insides of the fuselage halves then fill the windows on the outside. (As per reply above).That way less chance of filler falling in later on. Then continue your build as normal, such as sand the fuselage smooth. And then finish as per your choice.

Thanks to everyone for all their help and advice! Really appreciated :)

I found in my local hobby shop some thin, narrow plastic strips that seemed to be the right width to cover the windows. So I applied this from the inside, and used some filler and sanded down from the outside.

To my horror, I noticed that this old kit (60s perhaps? - eBay purchase, paid way over the odds...) was missing a few parts. Thankfully it was only things like some cabin and cargo doors. I had already glued the fuselage together, but managed to poke in and glue some scraps of spruce, then that gave me a structure to support the filler.

I have to say though, that this Vallejo putty is pretty awful stuff. After several layers and sanding I just about got it to an acceptable standard, however - weeks later (I was waiting for a sunny day to do some spray painting on the balcony) the bloody stuff expands and reputtifies in heat/sunlight! What good is that to anyone!? :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies! No criticisism to your friend intented - they're really fine decals, and the fact that they even exist and are produced is awesome. But still, ignoring customer emails (no matter how dumb they may be) hardly encourages loyalty...

Ray isn't "my friend". I'm sure he's a lovely guy but I've never met him and my only relationship with him is as a paying customer

....

I have to say though, that this Vallejo putty is pretty awful stuff. After several layers and sanding I just about got it to an acceptable standard, however - weeks later (I was waiting for a sunny day to do some spray painting on the balcony) the bloody stuff expands and reputtifies in heat/sunlight! What good is that to anyone!? :(

..... which is precisely why most of us who fill our windows use and recommend products like Milliput or Isopon P38. Normal model filler isn't meant for filling relatively deep sections like windows as I found out many years ago under similar circumstances when I tried Squadron Green Putty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

..... which is precisely why most of us who fill our windows use and recommend products like Milliput or Isopon P38. Normal model filler isn't meant for filling relatively deep sections like windows as I found out many years ago under similar circumstances when I tried Squadron Green Putty.

Yep, you live and learn! The product was called "plastic putty" which is why I believe it would be suitable for general use, but maybe the fine nozzle should have made me think twice.

I did spot some of the Milliput in the shop. I'll certainly try that out next time. Thanks for the recomendation :)

Right now I'm wondering if I should try and hack out the Vallejo stuff and start again - or try to keep the model out of sunlight and hope it will eventually cure after a few months/years...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Resurrecting an old thread here.

 

26 Decals have BOAC decals for the Super VC10 - can these be used on the Airfix VC10 kit? I notice there are cockpit window decals on the sheet for the Airfix kit . . .

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Nick

 

EDIT: I guess the Airfix bits are there for when you use Braz stuff to make a Super VC 10?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...