Col. Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 They all look to be going well Rob. Particularly like the subtle panel lining on XM571 - not a technique I'm usually a fan of but you've made it work for this one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 10 hours ago, Col. said: They all look to be going well Rob. Particularly like the subtle panel lining on XM571 - not a technique I'm usually a fan of but you've made it work for this one. Cheers Col same here I like the idea of it but on some aircraft it looks wrong others right and it's easy to over do it. The white one I might leave pristine but I'm tempted to try and accent some lines with off white as they did get grubby but this would be as it left the factory and it was not long till it received the ecm tail and other mods for sky bolt trials. Now im wondering what the best colour is to use on panel lines on a white aircraft I've tried medium grey before but even that was too stark. cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Good job Rob, XM571 is looking better every time that I drop by. Nice work on backdating the kit to an early B.2, it's going to look good displayed alongside the Valiant and Victor. You should be able to start a 'Vulcan in Miniature' museum with the number of this kit that I have watched you build. You must be near to having completed every preserved example now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 1 hour ago, nimrod54 said: Good job Rob, XM571 is looking better every time that I drop by. Nice work on backdating the kit to an early B.2, it's going to look good displayed alongside the Valiant and Victor. You should be able to start a 'Vulcan in Miniature' museum with the number of this kit that I have watched you build. You must be near to having completed every preserved example now. Thanks mate yep XM571 has fought me all the way but it's worth it. Love this kit it's such a good model as isthe Victor I'm waiting to build as many of. Wish they would do a valiant. ah that would be nice a v bomber museum with a full size replica of the initial variants of the 3 V bombers outside done in carbon fibre. With models of every aircraft and associated Cold War aircraft and history's. why has it not already been done. I hope the white one don't fight me it's scary applying the black to the white areas I pray no runs. Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 4 hours ago, robvulcan said: Cheers Col same here I like the idea of it but on some aircraft it looks wrong others right and it's easy to over do it. The white one I might leave pristine but I'm tempted to try and accent some lines with off white as they did get grubby but this would be as it left the factory and it was not long till it received the ecm tail and other mods for sky bolt trials. Now im wondering what the best colour is to use on panel lines on a white aircraft I've tried medium grey before but even that was too stark. cheers Rob I'd say a very light grey would be your safe starting point for the white finish then perhaps add a touch of the medium grey to accentuate some of the grubby service panels around the engine etc.? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 2 minutes ago, Col. said: I'd say a very light grey would be your safe starting point for the white finish then perhaps add a touch of the medium grey to accentuate some of the grubby service panels around the engine etc.? Thats what I'm thinking too. However for a while I've been thinking of a rather exhaustive process for such subtle work but as the humbrol white is quite a dull white and Tamiya so vivid primer that is I've thought of bluetaking every single panels centre then softedging a lighter white or over the lines so it's blurred but adds subtle interest and then highlighting the bomb doors control surfaces but I think I'll experiment on something else for that. Maybe cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albeback52 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 On 04/03/2018 at 12:55 PM, robvulcan said: Thanks im happy how its turned out I love the look of a hard edge camo but its such a pain to mask it all. I will have ago again but try another method. The Tamiya 2MM tape certainly did its job as regards curve and I was pushing it to the limit in this scale. However its just not sticky enough to hold its form you have to keep pressing it back down. Maybe next time id use it with an airbrush but I already hear a friend of mine having woes with it like that. Maybe on camo patterns less curvy than this its fine but not for tight curves. Rob I tried the Tamiya tape on several models and, to be perfectly honest I was rather unimpressed by it. Poor adhesion being the main problem and, not just restricted to complex curves like the Vulcan pattern. I actually binned mine and won't be using it again! Back to the time honoured method for me!!! For decades I have been using a soft pencil to draw the camouflage pattern freehand on to the model and then using a flat brush to fill in the appropriate areas. Takes practice but has worked very well. Certainly eliminates the problems of both paint creep and, paint build up. I don't airbrush by the way - I don't own one!. All my models are brush painted! Not suitable for everyone - I accept that but, certainly does it for me! Allan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 4 hours ago, Albeback52 said: I tried the Tamiya tape on several models and, to be perfectly honest I was rather unimpressed by it. Poor adhesion being the main problem and, not just restricted to complex curves like the Vulcan pattern. I actually binned mine and won't be using it again! Back to the time honoured method for me!!! For decades I have been using a soft pencil to draw the camouflage pattern freehand on to the model and then using a flat brush to fill in the appropriate areas. Takes practice but has worked very well. Certainly eliminates the problems of both paint creep and, paint build up. I don't airbrush by the way - I don't own one!. All my models are brush painted! Not suitable for everyone - I accept that but, certainly does it for me! Allan Well I will be binning mine too. amazing their normal tape is so good and this so darn awful. I have just sourced a much more promising tape of a similar nature that does stick and performs in the sam manner. So I will have a go with this. I usually brush paint and spray paint since the AB packed up in 2011 and decided after much frustration to embrace new techniques and for the most part I dont need an AB however some things you just cant do without one (or I cant..) I had a frustrating time with Acrylics but I have learned more off here so I hope I will enjoy AB painting again now and incorporate all 3. Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albeback52 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 22 minutes ago, robvulcan said: Well I will be binning mine too. amazing their normal tape is so good and this so darn awful. I have just sourced a much more promising tape of a similar nature that does stick and performs in the sam manner. So I will have a go with this. I usually brush paint and spray paint since the AB packed up in 2011 and decided after much frustration to embrace new techniques and for the most part I dont need an AB however some things you just cant do without one (or I cant..) I had a frustrating time with Acrylics but I have learned more off here so I hope I will enjoy AB painting again now and incorporate all 3. Cheers Rob Well Rob, I have never encountered a paint job among my chosen subjects that CANNOT be done by brush painting!! (or, at least a mix of brushing and rattle cans!!).Still, for all our different approaches we are all modellers and, that's all that matters! For something like the Vulcan. I would (in the one true 1/72 scale at least!!) use a rattle can for the main colour(s) and brush the camouflage pattern. Glad to know I am not the only one disappointed in the Tamiya tape! I actually never enjoyed using an airbrush. I got rid of mine over 20 years ago and never regretted it. Even though I got quite proficient, I felt it actually took all the FUN out of painting! Try brush painting a 1/72 B-52 & you will understand what I mean! Cheers Allan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 1 minute ago, Albeback52 said: Well Rob, I have never encountered a paint job among my chosen subjects that CANNOT be done by brush painting!! (or, at least a mix of brushing and rattle cans!!).Still, for all our different approaches we are all modellers and, that's all that matters! For something like the Vulcan. I would (in the one true 1/72 scale at least!!) use a rattle can for the main colour(s) and brush the camouflage pattern. Glad to know I am not the only one disappointed in the Tamiya tape! I actually never enjoyed using an airbrush. I got rid of mine over 20 years ago and never regretted it. Even though I got quite proficient, I felt it actually took all the FUN out of painting! Try brush painting a 1/72 B-52 & you will understand what I mean! Cheers Allan Well I am told there are some you cant haha, I managed thus far. Yes I found the AB could spit paint at models much more than I could swear at them and would only spray beautifully onto the tissue. As soon as it was pointed at a model it would spit like a disaproving llama. Mind you my old compressor was not much good and went bang one day and I was actually happy to chuck the thing. This new one seems to be alot better albeit a simple afair as I am not going to outlay too much until I have got to grips with this thing. Which is the EXPO AB605. Brushing is a lot more relaxing thats for sure. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albeback52 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 8 minutes ago, robvulcan said: Well I am told there are some you cant haha, I managed thus far. Yes I found the AB could spit paint at models much more than I could swear at them and would only spray beautifully onto the tissue. As soon as it was pointed at a model it would spit like a disaproving llama. Mind you my old compressor was not much good and went bang one day and I was actually happy to chuck the thing. This new one seems to be alot better albeit a simple afair as I am not going to outlay too much until I have got to grips with this thing. Which is the EXPO AB605. Brushing is a lot more relaxing thats for sure. Rob No argument here Rob!!. One of the old favourites for the "it cannot be brush painted, you must have an airbrush" mafia is the WWII Luftwaffe mottle type camouflage. I have nearly 5 decades of modelling under my belt and, airbrushes were the exception when I embarked on the world's greatest hobby!. And yet, we managed!!. Of course, it doesn't really matter what method we use. Just have fun! . Just for the record, even when I DID have an airbrush I never used it for the aforementioned camouflage schemes! Allan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 As someone who has been brush painting a b52 I fully understand what albeback was getting at.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 4 minutes ago, Albeback52 said: No argument here Rob!!. One of the old favourites for the "it cannot be brush painted, you must have an airbrush" mafia is the WWII Luftwaffe mottle type camouflage. I have nearly 5 decades of modelling under my belt and, airbrushes were the exception when I embarked on the world's greatest hobby!. And yet, we managed!!. Of course, it doesn't really matter what method we use. Just have fun! . Just for the record, even when I DID have an airbrush I never used it for the aforementioned camouflage schemes! Allan Yep thats the one I hear is the only one you can do with an AB but blue tak might do it. I am with you all the way it should be fun. (should be) hehe.. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 4 minutes ago, PhantomBigStu said: As someone who has been brush painting a b52 I fully understand what albeback was getting at.... Yeh I would opt for rattle cans on something that big. Something I would love to make a model of in the Vietnamn era scheme. Gorgeous aircraft. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Done some more on XH537. I tried the tip sugessted earlier about once masking first paint the same colour as your masking before applying the new colour.... WOW it works so well. What an improvement in hard edges amazing ! thanks so much for that tip. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr I used Reeves Acryilic for this this paint is absolutely wonderful stuff right from the tub easy to paint and spread with good coverage and leveling. It also makes a great filler for tiny annoying gaps. White applied : Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Black and other Radar panels masked and painted Dark Earth Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr The work so far. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Cheers Rob 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army_Air_Force Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Pleased the painting tip sorted your masking creep! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 1 minute ago, Army_Air_Force said: Pleased the painting tip sorted your masking creep! Not sure did I was gonna go back through the thread later after work to thank you but you beat me to it. Thabks so much. It also makes it harder to see what line was masked first I love it. Armed with some new type masking tape and a renewed sense of confidence I can't wait to try a hard edge camo bird again thanks a buch Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albeback52 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 15 hours ago, robvulcan said: Yeh I would opt for rattle cans on something that big. Something I would love to make a model of in the Vietnamn era scheme. Gorgeous aircraft. Rob It was the Revell/Monogram B-52D!!. Admittedly, I DID use a rattle can for the black but, the disruptive pattern S E Asia camouflage was all brushed! With regard to your earlier point about the Luftwaffe mottling, there are in fact several means by which you can reproduce same without an airbrush. Youtube is a good place to check if you are interested. My own favoured method is using different sized (old!) brushes cut down to a stub 3 - 4mm. Remove most of the paint with a paper towel then, on a pre dampened model, use a sort of stippling method. Capillary action on the damp model will allow paint to flow giving a nice feathered edge! How about trying it on one of your Vulcans!!. Would look pretty mean finished in 70/71/65! Takes a bit of practice but, works for me! Allan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Lovely job on XH537 and I too will be using @Army_Air_Force great tip on my future masking jobs - it's strange how the simple things never seem to occur to you at the time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 20 hours ago, Albeback52 said: It was the Revell/Monogram B-52D!!. Admittedly, I DID use a rattle can for the black but, the disruptive pattern S E Asia camouflage was all brushed! With regard to your earlier point about the Luftwaffe mottling, there are in fact several means by which you can reproduce same without an airbrush. Youtube is a good place to check if you are interested. My own favoured method is using different sized (old!) brushes cut down to a stub 3 - 4mm. Remove most of the paint with a paper towel then, on a pre dampened model, use a sort of stippling method. Capillary action on the damp model will allow paint to flow giving a nice feathered edge! How about trying it on one of your Vulcans!!. Would look pretty mean finished in 70/71/65! Takes a bit of practice but, works for me! Allan That sounds like a good technique there Allan. I also have thought about doing some whif aircraft and that scheme would be cool. Rob 17 hours ago, nimrod54 said: Lovely job on XH537 and I too will be using @Army_Air_Force great tip on my future masking jobs - it's strange how the simple things never seem to occur to you at the time. Yes it's a great technique for sure and fun too. I've heard about klear being used but not the ale colour it's genious cheers Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Another welcome back from me Rob, you have been missed! Caught up with new updates on this one now - amazing stuff. Tape for curves? A warm finger run over the tape helps but, as you say, it doesn't stay down well so I now only use it where absolutely necessary... and now I've found 'Ultra Mask' (other films like Orafilm and Frisket are available) it may well rot in the drawer. We've also found some 'Tamiya tape' that appears to come from the factory that Tamiya use, but much cheaper. Have a look at this. A few of us are using this now and it's great - like Tamiya, just cheaper (and more colourful!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 6 hours ago, CedB said: Another welcome back from me Rob, you have been missed! Caught up with new updates on this one now - amazing stuff. Tape for curves? A warm finger run over the tape helps but, as you say, it doesn't stay down well so I now only use it where absolutely necessary... and now I've found 'Ultra Mask' (other films like Orafilm and Frisket are available) it may well rot in the drawer. We've also found some 'Tamiya tape' that appears to come from the factory that Tamiya use, but much cheaper. Have a look at this. A few of us are using this now and it's great - like Tamiya, just cheaper (and more colourful!) Many Thanks Ced I'll try that out and Indeed rubbed this tape down very keenly may times but it would not conform. I have got some other tape which looks much better but has the same bendy qualities but usefully it actually sticks to the model ! , so I'll be testing it out here on some scrap model to see how it goes. This tape nearly put me off rattle cans which I love. But at least it made me sort my AB out so I win in the end haha. cheers Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 More Progress on these then. I have just completed my first week at work in my new job and got this far inbetween so far. The new job seems pretty ace too. I masked up the exhausts and bottom dielectric/ radar panel and painted them In Revell Aqua Anthracite I opted for this on the exhausts as I wanted to create a dull colour that looks almost grey,burned silver sort of a colour but without the reflectivity. so they look like they have had some use. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Next I turned my attention to the canopy windows they always look at bit dull just left clear and when I look at Vulcans I think the window add a lot to its mystique as the middle ones are tinted a brown orange and the circular and triangular ones a kind of blueish colour I tired to replicate this. (bit overkill maybe) but Its something else to fiddle with without just clear plastic Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr and with the colours Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr and on an older build. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr and on a real vulcan to show what im getting at. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Nice touch Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 The white Vulcan was given a coat or too of Klear then I mixed up some pepeo Light Grey, Reeves Titanium White and a tiny drop of Revell Anthracite with lots of flow improver into a sacrificed revell grey tub and done a panel line accent, Then Rubbed it off lighty after drying with a micromesh pad and dampened with... Spit... hmm disgusting I know but it works. Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr Untitled by Rob Hayes, on Flickr A little bit more of a rub down with 1200 pad and should be ready decals Cheers Rob 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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