Spookytooth Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Build your own bike , step by step. Looks great. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 wonderful progress on this kit looking great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Steps 52 to 55: Spring-loaded main stand, rear shocks and side bag brackets. Next up, Rear mudguard number plate bracket and regulator bracket. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Steps 56 to 59: Brackets for the number plate and regulator, wiring harness, mounting the mudguard to the frame. The mounting bracket for the regulator is an unnumbered part in step 56. For anyone thinking of building this kit it's 314-I Next up, front forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Today's update. Steps 60 to 71: Spring-loaded front forks, steering damper, indicator light bracket, fender brackets and handlebar clamps. A total of 33 parts plus 10 screws and 5 nuts used in these 11 steps. These are the smallest nuts I've ever seen, tricky little blighters! Next up, fuse box and wiring loom, headlight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Youre certainly doing a brilliant job of it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I'm still watching but started my new job and worked 64 hours in the last 5 days so not had time for anything. Anyway, as above, outstanding kit and well played indeed. Question, are the parts in the box prepainted? I would imagine that they are because if not this monster would take 100 years to build!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks A5h There aren't any pre-painted parts, just the usual coloured sprues in black, grey, chromed and clear. The predominant paint colour is black; frame, forks, fuel tank, saddle bags etc with a heck of a lot of chrome. As all the moving parts in the engine and transmission actually work I'm leaving them unpainted so that they can be seen. Today's update: Steps 72 to 77, fusebox and headlight assembly. You even get lightbulbs, pity they don't work. The fusebox is hidden inside the headlamp, but still, you know it's there! Next up, instrument panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Moving on to steps 78 to 85: Headlamp mounting, speedo panel, front indicators. The indicators are complete with bulbs and rubber gaskets. All the lenses in this kit are clear plastic which have to be painted an appropriate colour.Not as convincing as the pre-coloured ones in a Tamiya bike kit. Next up, tail light and rear indicators, number plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Right ok gotcha on the non painting, I would do that too I think. Lenses look superb with the tiny bulbs in, looks to be with some ingenuity and a fibre optic kit one could take it to the next level. However that would never be me after spending £1,000,000 on a kit I would be scared to mess it up. Keep plugging away!! Incidentally I see the 1p and the nut for scale, how large is this bike in real life against something that we know, like a standard coffee mug, or a hot water bottle or whatever else you can think of which we all have a general idea of the size? Edited May 12, 2015 by A5h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Tamiya do clear colours, if that's not a contradiction in terms. I have found that the most useful are clear red (X27) and Clear Orange (X26), though I also have Smoke (X19). Clear Blue (X23), Clear Green (X25) and there is even a Clear Purple (X16). They look very effective when used on indicator lenses. They can be very effective as 'anodised aluminium' if painted over metallic paint. Cheers, Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Tamiya do clear colours, if that's not a contradiction in terms. I have found that the most useful are clear red (X27) and Clear Orange (X26), though I also have Smoke (X19). Clear Blue (X23), Clear Green (X25) and there is even a Clear Purple (X16). They look very effective when used on indicator lenses. They can be very effective as 'anodised aluminium' if painted over metallic paint. Cheers, Alan. Thanks Alan, that's very useful information. I'll be adding red and orange to my inventory for future builds and maybe some other colours. Blue might be quite effective on chromed exhaust pipes, possibly. Regards, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Right ok gotcha on the non painting, I would do that too I think. Lenses look superb with the tiny bulbs in, looks to be with some ingenuity and a fibre optic kit one could take it to the next level. However that would never be me after spending £1,000,000 on a kit I would be scared to mess it up. Keep plugging away!! Incidentally I see the 1p and the nut for scale, how large is this bike in real life against something that we know, like a standard coffee mug, or a hot water bottle or whatever else you can think of which we all have a general idea of the size? Yeah, I think it would be a shame to hide all those moving parts under a coat of paint but others who seek total accuracy and realism would possibly disagree. If I had messed up with the engine internals then I would have painted it to hide my embarrassment! I'm sure a highly skilled modeller could replace the lightbulbs with fibre optics or small LED's. It's not something I'd undertake as I'm finding the 'out of the box' build challenging enough, especially those pesky little nuts There's provision for housing batteries for such a mod under the saddle, a legacy from when the original Protar kit came with an electric motor. I've now completed steps 86 to 93 which basically covers the lighting and a few other bits and bobs. Here're some pics of where I'm up to with a standard size mug for size comparison According to the blurb on the box, the finished model is 380mm long or about 15 inches. Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Going well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Wow that's a decent model you got there!! Thanks for the scale geewizzz Wondering what you will do after this is finished? You seem to be enjoying it some what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Steps 94 to 103: Cable harness, wheels and front brakes. I gave up trying to use the supplied moulded rubber tie-wraps to secure the harness to the frame as they were so soft and floppy that I found it impossible to poke the end through the hole. Instead I used black tape which is actually less conspicuous. It's all a bit of a birds nest at this stage which doesn't really show in the photo. Each wheel consists of 5 parts which are held together by a twist-lock system, no glue required There are black rubber tyre valves too. The front brakes are twin drums that actually work. This is the left side. And this is the right with a see-thru hub cover. The actuating linkage is a little 'sticky' compared to the other one but all four brake shoes move as intended. Next up, front fender/mudguard and fitting the front wheel. Thanks for looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Wow that's a decent model you got there!! Thanks for the scale geewizzz Wondering what you will do after this is finished? You seem to be enjoying it some what? .... I've no idea what to do next but I can say that it won't be a Heller 1/8 Citroen Traction Avant!! Incidentally those small nuts are 2mm (across the flats). Could really do with a nut-starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 The more I watch the more I want one.... but I have no time to build grrrrrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Steps 104 to 111: Assembly of the front mudguard/fender, fitting the front wheel to the forks and assembling the rear brake drum. Next up, fitting the rear wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 It's really taking shape now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Now that I've got the engine mounted it's really starting to take shape This was no easy task and it gets a special mention in the instructions as the best way to approach it. Basically you have to get the end of the drive shaft engaged with the output shaft from the gearbox first and then jiggle the engine inside the frame. It's all a tight squeeze. At this point the engine is not supported and kept dropping forward and disengaging the drive shaft. This is when you need another pair of hands to hold things in place. After about the third attempt I noticed that the universal joint had become detached from the shaft. Epic fail It's not feasible to attempt a repair as it's inside the fork tube and the coupling is covered with a rubber gaiter. Sadly the back wheel doesn't turn when the engine is turned over...OK it's in Neutral !! These pics cover steps 112 to 125: fitting the rear wheel, gear change pedal, brake pedal, engine mounting and some more cabling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Still looks good and no one will ever know but U.S. And I won't say anything 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Wow you've been motoring with this while I've been sunning myself on hols, great work. I know if I had this kit I would still paint the engine casings and hide all that hard work but I would have the photos and know it was there. You are doing a superb job of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Thanks Kpnuts Sounds like you been somewhere nice, warm and relaxing for your hols. To paint or not to paint? That is the question. With hindsight I would have painted the engine block and cylinders and left the gearbox and starter motor clear because, as it turns out, the pistons and crank shaft aren't very visible through the clear mouldings anyway. The fun really starts with the next stage of the build, making up the Bowden cables for the 'working' clutch, front brake and throttle controls/levers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billydick Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Guess it would have been feasible to paint one side of the engine block and one cylinder and left the other side clear to view internals ? Brilliant job ....... BillyD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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