Peter Marshall Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Looking good, Peter. Just one small thing : the tail hook should actually be offset to starboard, alongside the triangular fairing, which was fitted as a guard for the hook to avoid accidental engagement of the arresting cable. If you look at some good three view drawings you'll see what I mean. HTH Cheers for that - wasn't obvious, and it's an easy fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Needed to correct the hook, which shouldn't have been straight so went to the shed again while I remembered. Fixed the hook, then decided to carry on and do a bit more. First cleaned up the bombs, and rescribed the panels Then sprayed the yellow Masked off the content stripes, then sprayed Olive Drab lightened with a little Buff on the bomb bodies Then finally sprayed the bomb fins with Olive Drab with a little IJA Green, and sprayed a coat of Gloss Varnish over then ready for a couple of decals and some more weathering Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Today's work - first finishing off the bombs. Started with decals followed by a Dot Filter on the main bomb unit Then some pigments Matted down, then added Flightpath PE fuses, and fusing wires Sprayed the Gear bays with H54 Interiour Green, and fitted the airbrake in place. Made up the main gear doors, and sprayed them while I had the airbrush out Finally masked off the canopy rear section, and tacked in place with some Copydex. Masked the side panels of the front section with Parafilm, then sprayed the main section with Alclad Armoured Glass Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Just another quick "Heads up" Pete . . . The wheel bay doors on F-100's were actually aluminium, and not interior green, as was the speed brake door. I have loads of close up pics of F-100;s, so if I can be of any help just PM me. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Looking good, looks like you found out as I did that if you build the kit as per the instructions with a front half and back half there is a filler and rescribe/re-rivet extravaganza! What markings are you going for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I particularly like what you've done with the bombs, they really look like they have been left outside in a bomb dump for some time. Will this be a camouflaged or NMF aircraft as both were operated in Vietnam ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Looking good, looks like you found out as I did that if you build the kit as per the instructions with a front half and back half there is a filler and rescribe/re-rivet extravaganza! What markings are you going for? Will this be a camouflaged or NMF aircraft as both were operated in Vietnam ? I will be doing it as F-100D-60-NA, 56-2927, 309 TFS/31 TFW, Tuy Hoa AB, Vietnam, 'Thor's Hammer' And hopefully will end up looking something like this http://www.f-100.org/images/f-100d_52898.jpg Just another quick "Heads up" Pete . . . The wheel bay doors on F-100's were actually aluminium, and not interior green, as was the speed brake door. I have loads of close up pics of F-100;s, so if I can be of any help just PM me. HTH Thanks for that - seems to be a bit of a minefield, some photo's show green, but the cammo'd ones do look to have aluminium bays. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary West Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Very nice work Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Work for today - First sprayed the wheel wells and gear doors with Alclad Aluminium Then glued the canopy in place - needed some Mr Surfacer 500 to fill a small gap Added the mount for the refuelling probe, complete with the light masked with Parafilm Rubbed back the Mr Surfacer, and remasked a couple of places where i'd caught the parafilm on the canopy Masked off the gear bays with Blu-tak, and tacked the main gear doors in place Masked the intake with Blu-Tak Sprayed the canopy black, added the PE wing fences, and masked off the nozzle Then out with the primer spray can, shake, and apply This needs to cure now - there's a couple of places that will need touching up but nothing major. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi Pete, I should have explained myself a bit clearer ! What I meant to say is that the wheel DOORS were aluminium, but that the wheel BAYS were interior green ! Still, I won't tell anyone if you won't ! Following this build with great interest, and you're doing a great job so far, Pete, especially the bombs . . .they look very realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basket Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Very nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 There was a very attractive Vietnam era Hun in NM with sharkmouth but I've never seen it on a decal sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi Pete, I should have explained myself a bit clearer ! What I meant to say is that the wheel DOORS were aluminium, but that the wheel BAYS were interior green ! Still, I won't tell anyone if you won't ! Following this build with great interest, and you're doing a great job so far, Pete, especially the bombs . . .they look very realistic. Not a problem - not done any detail painting on the bays so easy to fix once the rest of the paint's done. Seen photos with various colour schemes for the bays so who can tell, but will probably spray the bays green, as it will give nice contrast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 It's Mr Surfacer Finishing Primer 1500 Black thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner - If you thin it about 70% thinners to Primer and lay on a few thin coats it dries glossy, using it thicker it dries matt. Hi Peter, I'm a bit puzzled by this comment. I've been using the same stuff for around a year now for all my Alclad finished parts and I can honestly say I've never had it go matt the more coats I've applied, I use the same thinners as well. Its superb stuff though isn't it. Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Hi Peter, I'm a bit puzzled by this comment. I've been using the same stuff for around a year now for all my Alclad finished parts and I can honestly say I've never had it go matt the more coats I've applied, I use the same thinners as well. Its superb stuff though isn't it. Tim. It's not more coats, it's spraying with less thinner that makes it go matt - probably as it's drier when it hits the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 It's not more coats, it's spraying with less thinner that makes it go matt - probably as it's drier when it hits the surface.Sorry I miss understood you, I normally use a high thinners/paint mix anyway so wouldn't have noticed.Nice p/e work by the way. Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Today's work on the Hun Started by rubbing the primer back with Micromesh, and touching up a couple of places that needed it Started pre-shading with black along the panel lines Then along the rivet lines with some grey Finally breaking up the panels with some Buff, gradually adding more and more white to the mix Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKguyInUSA Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 She's coming along beautifully! Cracking job on the tub and the PE details. The weathering on the bombs looks fabulous! Cheers, Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 This mornings work - basically started early, as I know I will need to leave the hot end a while before masking it off. So this is the rear section of the fuselage. Start by lining up the Alclads and Tamiya clear paints that will be used for this So first lay down a nice even coat of Alclad Aluminium as a base Mask off the Afterburner section, and spray with Dark Aluminium, then very fine Jet Exhaust and finally Burnt Iron. With the Burnt Iron start picking out the centers of the panels where the metal would have got hottest Then a spray of Hotmetal blue - concentrate on the edges of the hot areas Build up the effect with Hotmetal Sepia Then Transparent Smoke Finally very heavily thinned Tamiya clear orange ( 95% Mr Color Levelling thinner to paint ) This needs to completely cure before I start masking over it. The idea is to have a none uniform looking heated surface - it's close to how I want it, but it's close enough to mask over, as I know later on i've got to spray the 'flaking' cammo colour over the top so there will be more work to do. Peter 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Just seen this thread Peter and it is great. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Right - more done, started by masking off the metal area Sprayed the grey Then the Tan Then the Mid green At this point I got a blockage in the nozzle of my Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus ( which is only 4 months old ), so for the first time I removed the nozzle - which sheared. To say that I am annoyed is an understatement - this isn't a cheap airbrush, spares aren't cheap and you need to replace the entire head rather than simply the nozzle. When I looked at it under a magnifier there are cracks all along the threads, so it's definately a manufacturing defect. I've contacted The Airbrush Company who do the Warranty for the airbrush ( and with whom I registered the warranty with ), so we'll see what happens. I then switched to my old airbrush, and sprayed the dark green Peter (who's currently livid with Iwata) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breaker Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Lovely work so far Peter, shame about the 'brush! May I ask what you've used for the SEA scheme? Looking at your bench it looks like Mr Hobby? Cheers, Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Lovely work so far Peter, shame about the 'brush! May I ask what you've used for the SEA scheme? Looking at your bench it looks like Mr Hobby? Cheers, Simon Gunze H311,H309,H310,H303 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Nightmare result on the brush. Opposite on the model though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Today's work - started by unmasking the metal area Then masked off the area again, and marked where the cammo area would be, ready to start adding in the heat affected cammo. Start by spraying very heavily thinned Tamiya Buff ( 90% Mr Levelling thinners to 10% paint ), along the areas where there would be framing behind the panels (i.e. the areas that would stay cooler, and therefore the paint is more likely to remain ). Then spray the Grey ( again 90% thinners ) on the bottom section, gradually covering over the buff and getting some overspray over the metal areas Next up the Tan - same deal very thin paint, and low pressure building up gradually Medium Green next Finally the dark green Happy with how it turned out, really does look like the paint has been coming off due to the heat. Added the stabilators and the slats Finally sprayed a coat of Klear over the top of everything Peter 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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