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Another Aleutian Defender


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  • 3 weeks later...

I apologize for neglecting this one. The decals are on.

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I used the 'pool of Future/Klear' method rather than Micro-set/sol and it worked well. They're very bright, and definitely need some de-saturation when the time comes.

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Brilliantly coming to an end also with this one, Cooken. :goodjob: Would you please expand a bit on the 'pool of Future' method?

TIA

Ciao

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Thanks Stew, hopefully I can get proficient at the Temperate Land Scheme in time for the BoB GB, even without your secret weapons: Phoenix Precision Paints and awesome brush (air and bristle) skills. I had a dream that I used Lifecolor tan for Dark Earth and it turned out great. I'm afraid that this is a case where one shouldn't follow his dreams!

Thanks Giemme, I saw this decal method in an issue of Fine Scale Modeller, and Rob Vulcan also advocates it. Basically use Future/Klear instead of Micro-set. While the decal is in the water, apply some Future to the appropriate spot on the model. Then place the transfer onto the little pool of Future and dab away the excess water/Future as usual. Once you've got it placed how you want, add another coat of Future on top. The idea is to encase the transfer in varnish, above and below, and eliminate silvering. I like to thin the Future/Klear with a little distilled water, but that's just personal preference. I have to say that it really worked, and the decals conformed nicely to panel lines too.

The RS decals are really great, and they provide lots of options, so they may have worked just fine no matter what method I used. More experiments will be necessary. I wonder if other clear varnishes would work as well, say a matt varnish, hmmm.

Rich, I know your work schedule is crazy, so thanks for taking the time to lead this group build and encourage everyone.

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While the decal is in the water, apply some Future to the appropriate spot on the model. Then place the transfer onto the little pool of Future and dab away the excess water/Future as usual. Once you've got it placed how you want, add another coat of Future on top. The idea is to encase the transfer in varnish, above and below, and eliminate silvering. I like to thin the Future/Klear with a little distilled water, but that's just personal preference. I have to say that it really worked, and the decals conformed nicely to panel lines too.

Thanks for that, Cooken. One more question, if you don't mind: how long before the decal actually start conforming to the panel lines? Is that a matter of second or you actually need to wait for the Future to dry?

Ciao

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Hi Giemme, I noticed that the decal conforms as the future dries, so it takes a few minutes, and the results look best overnight.

Ok, thank you. A test might be in sight for this ... :hobbyhorse::winkgrin:

Ciao

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Looking forward to your tests Giemme.

Thanks Rob, and I'm glad you've got your Typhoon started.

I started weathering the P-38 today. First I used some Vallejo wash for oil and fuel stains, and then tempera paint for dirt and mud.

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Then I blended it together with chalk pastels.

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I've got a little more clean up to do, and then it's time attach all the bits that I was afraid I'd break when weathering.

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Also got a little bit done on the lucky Spitfire. Procopius warned me about the spinner not fitting the prop on the new AZ kit, so I added some plasticard to fill the gaps.

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And the canopy is masked.

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Thanks for looking.

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the weathering is very nicely done, see looks great!

I will forgive you for going off topic with the Spitfire, seeing you've managed to sneak it in to all your updates! :D

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Absolutely great weathering! And a real beauty, overall, especially considering all the sanding-filling-experimenting you've done with it!

:clap::clap::clap:

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