Wires and stretchers - 1:32 Eduard.

[Viking]

Wires and stretchers

1:32 Eduard

With the current popularity of 1:32 WW.1 kits from the likes of Wingnut Wings, Roden, and Special Hobby, Eduard have produced this set of etched rigging wires and stretchers. (Most of us will probably refer to these as turnbuckles).

Various methods can be used to simulate rigging, from stretched sprue, E-Z line, fuse wire, or fishing line. All of them have their pros and cons, so this is an interesting new approach. The turnbuckles have lines attached to them with 2 different sizes over a total of 36 individual lines.

Holes will need to be drilled at each end of the line, with the turnbuckle secured at one end. A small eyelet is secured at the othere end, and the line pulled through it and folded back on itself and glued. Obviously each line will need to be trimmed to a suitable length before fixing to the model.

It looks like a simple enough method, key will be securing each turnbuckle and eyelet. A drop of cyano with a dab of accelerator should be the ideal way of doing this.

Conclusion.

This is an interesting method of replicating rigging, and should also give some strength to the finished model. It looks no more fiddly than threading fishing line or E-Z line through eyelets. Also the turnbuckles are more detailed than tubing or line tied off, and should look good once painted and in place.

[HOUSTON]

Viking,,

I enjoyed reading your review... well written..keep it up

I quite like the pencil drawings showing how to rig....gives one a better idea doesn't it..that is so simplistic but yet I know it will still be

fiddly and hard to get it JUST SO ...

HOUSTON {WHO HAS NEVER RIGGED }

[mekon]

Looks like this method would be really a nice way to rig the flying wires. The turnbuckles are a little two dimensional though...

Not a bad way to go though, be interesting to see how they work out in the real world.

Ken

[krow113]

They dont work. See if you can find a biplane model rigged with p/e to represent the flat rigging. You wont be able to , as it quite simply wont work!

[Viking]

See if you can find a biplane model rigged with p/e to represent the flat rigging. You wont be able to , as it quite simply wont work!

Steve, whilst this isn't using the above set (and the wingtip to fin wires are invisible mending thread to represent the radio aerials), all the rest is p/e;

I'm pretty happy with it, and it suggests the reviewed set should give a good result,

Cheers

John

[Julien]

They dont work. See if you can find a biplane model rigged with p/e to represent the flat rigging. You wont be able to , as it quite simply wont work!

When you say they dont work, is this from personal experience? have you used them?

I dont see a company like Eduard spending time and resources developing a product that does not work.

[krow113]

When you say they dont work, is this from personal experience? have you used them?

I dont see a company like Eduard spending time and resources developing a product that does not work.

Used some from a reputable supplier, I wont name them here , did not work. Did a tutorial in front of my entire IPMS club , did not work. Tried for 2 weeks to get them on my 1/32 Biff, did not work. Ended up with large blobs of dried cyano on my model.

What happens is this:

You rig the bay ,thinkin' yer all that w/chips. You come back tomorrow and find this:

Any temperature change , they buckle.

Any wing shift they buckle.

Anything at all, they buckle.

The only way I saw ,after a MONTH of trying, is to have one end free to absorb the changes listed above.

I dont slag on model forums , but my guys spent money on this for my tutorial and were very disappointed I couldnt get it to work.

It dont work on biplanes.

I saw one model, a Peashooter , where the guy was able to make it work.

Of course some one will now come on and say the exact opposite, being as its a model forum and thats how it goes. But pix to prove!

After all that I rigged in a day with the WnW supplied 'flat rigging':

Okay?

Edited April 5, 2015 by krow113

[krow113]

Steve, whilst this isn't using the above set (and the wingtip to fin wires are invisible mending thread to represent the radio aerials), all the rest is p/e;

I'm pretty happy with it, and it suggests the reviewed set should give a good result,

Cheers

John

Congrats you are the only one I have seen to get it to work!

This one is like a Peashooter as well, minimal rigging , what scale is it?

Edited April 5, 2015 by krow113

[Paul Thompson]

I agree that this can only work if the model has a completely stiff wing cellule. The slightest movement when moving the model throws everything out, and the PE wire can't accomodate it. I also had the same problem using RB RAFwires (nothing wrong with the product, just doesn't work on long runs with flexy wings/struts) on a WNW F2b. Just about got away with it on a 1.32nd Roden SE5a (singe bay, stiffer wings) . But I find the worst thing (and it also applies to Eduards earlier sets of turnbuckles) is that the buckle bits themselves are 1) far too big, 2) too 2 dimensional, even when thickened with paint, white glue or CA, and 3) the buckle bit is (my pet beef) not appropriate for most flat rigging, at least on RFC and RAF wires, which had a visibly different connector with the adjuster built in.

If you say they're not supposed to be streamlined wires, so the type of turnbuckle is okay, well maybe they're not, but the fact is they are flat, and it is visible.

Nice idea, needs work, and then it may work in smaller scales with suitable subjects.

Paul.

[Viking]

I agree that this can only work if the model has a completely stiff wing cellule. The slightest movement when moving the model throws everything out, and the PE wire can't accomodate it. I also had the same problem using RB RAFwires (nothing wrong with the product, just doesn't work on long runs with flexy wings/struts) on a WNW F2b. Just about got away with it on a 1.32nd Roden SE5a (singe bay, stiffer wings) .

I think that the stiffer wing cellule might be the key to it Paul, based on Steve's pictures of the Biff (good save by the way, and a beautiful model).

My F3F is the 1:48 Accurate Miniatures kit that came with the p/e rigging. It was simple to install and worked well. I built it more than 15 years ago and the photos were done yesterday so it's stood up well.

I've tried all sorts over the years, from stretched sprue, elastic line, fuse wire, the p/e above, invisible mending thread, and fishing line. It's the fishing line that gives best results as it can be pulled taut like real rigging and imparts real strength to the finished model. Plus it has the benefit of any small amount of sag being curable by application of heat from a hot pin or even a carefully wielded soldering iron. I've always struggled to get good looking turnbuckles though. Some guys get superb results with fine tubing, but it's always defeated me. When you are dealing with large structure such as a 1:32 WNW multi bay biplane kit there is a bit of movement until the rigging is in, and I always do 1 line per side, then it's opposite partner to even out any stresses as I go.

So there is some valuable info from Steve backed up with pictures to illustrate the problems he experienced. On that basis I will avoid trialling on models with multiple bays such as the F2.B and RE.8, and perhaps give these a trial on something like a Roland C.II, walking before trying to run!

Interesting product and a good discussion on it's merits and drawbacks guys,

Cheers

John

[krow113]

My motivation was fuelled by the looks on 3-4 of my brother modellers and IPMS members faces, after my colossal failure to complete the p/e rigging tutorial, oh , did I mention it happened in front of the other 40 guys as well?!

The 3-4 guys had already spent upwards of $40 on the stuff, I spent a lot more than that ,stocking up , however modellers are the best re-purposers on the planet, I did use some to replicate the fine fuse detail on my Helluva Hiller: