Fritag Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 1 hour ago, perdu said: the number 53 item looks to be totally symmetrical around the front vee shape in the middle so it ought to be reasonably easy to work the one side then flip it to cover the other side with a transparent layer Advice taken Bill. Half Traced: Flipped and then joined into one: So that's the outline for the front cockpit MDC done. It's been educational...... I know that lots of BM'er are dab hands at CAD etc etc . Not this one tho.....But getting better slowly..... 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Nice solid start on the MDC, Steve Looking forward to the rest of the process ... Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Looking good so far! I haven't tried any home cooked PE yet either, even though I bought the kit a couple of years ago. The only difficulty I can see would be the timing in the bath - this is going to be so thin that I would imagine it could easily be left in a fraction too long and dissolve through! Still, you'll have the artwork to do it with decals if that does happen! Ian 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 That's good, helps me feel useful Though I knew you were with it anyway Does look good Can't wait to see the results of all this experimentation Exciting times are with us... ☺ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Excellent start Steve. Those look very neat (can't help it but they remind me of the Nazca lines in Peru). As per the VGs, preparation is you ally. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 3 hours ago, Fritag said: I know that lots of BM'er are dab hands at CAD etc etc . Not this one tho.... You're a dabber hand at it than this BM'er....!! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huvut76g7gbbui7 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Very nice Steve and the finished Hawks will look superb with all this work. At first I thought you were drawing a Rorscach card Richard (who has perhaps been too long in the mental health trade) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 More PE? Looking good, nice crinkly edges... Breath bated here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Well this gets even more interesting.... Are we still in 1/72?? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Course were still in 1/72. That's half the fun Ok so. Experimental MDC artwork scaled to 1/72: At 100% they're less than 20mm long and the zig zags in the MDC are tiny - very tiny. On reflection I think they are smaller/finer than the etch process (my home brew efforts anyway) can cope with. The definition I can achieve just ain't that good. But that's no reason not to crack on bull headedly as a test is it? Here's a couple of piccies after the developing stage. Like I thought - the zig zags proved to be too small/fine and haven't reproduced all that well (but a bit better than I feared): On the other side part of the rear MDC came off in the developing stage. Have to say tho' that I was pleased and relieved that such thin lines (by and large) survived the UV exposure/developing. And so to the etching........ Promising. I did at least get the front and back artwork lined up accurately enough! This is 0.003" brass btw. And after stripping away the residual resist: And a few comparison shots against the Airfix supplied canopy (rescued from the junk box): I'm pleasantly surprised tbh. A tad crude perhaps (although this is unforgiving macro of course) but a very gentle swipe with the diamond file might neaten things up a bit. With a bit of refinement it might actually be doable. As long as I can get the brass MDC to conform/stick to the inside of a home-brew vac canopy of course I might try redoing the artwork with the zig zags rendered a tad rounder or overscale. It's been fun so far tho' Edited October 12, 2017 by Fritag 19 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cngaero Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Great work with the Photo Etch Steve. This is build continues to be a real education and inspiration. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 2 hours ago, Leonl said: aAre we still in 1/72?? Not sure anymore myself Steve, as you say, considering the macro effect, the scale and all of that, the result is more than satisfactory The real point is about making it to conform to the canopy. My only attempt at reproducing a MDC was for my Harrier GR9A build, and I did it by bending a thin copper wire on top of the supplied decal copy and using tweezers. The wire itself bends much better than any flat PE, and even with that, conforming it to the canopy wasn't the easiest of things. But since you proved me wrong already on the VGs, I'm sure you'll make it and it will be excellent, so I'll patiently wait to be proved wrong once more Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 1 hour ago, giemme said: The real point is about making it to conform to the canopy. My only attempt at reproducing a MDC was for my Harrier GR9A build, and I did it by bending a thin copper wire on top of the supplied decal copy and using tweezers. The wire itself bends much better than any flat PE, and even with that, conforming it to the canopy wasn't the easiest of things. I agree it may be tricky. On My JP I used wire and I formed it to shape by pressing it over a resin male master of the canopy and I fixed it to the canopy with generous quantities of Klear. I hope to do something similar with the etch here - by sandwiching it between a male canopy master and a spare vac canopy. A problem to solve will be getting the etch to hold that shape - I'm not sure how practical it will be to anneal such thin bits of brass. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I used an etched MDC from Eduard on the inside of my Harrier FRS.1 kit, and it was fairly easy to get it to conform to the compound curves required. It retained the curvature nicely and I attached it to the inside of the canopy with Future. It's still there - hasn't fallen off yet. I like your work on the homebrew MDC. With that and the vortex generators earlier, you've given me more reasons to invest in an etching set. My wife thanks you in advance for the caustic chemicals in the house! Cheers, Bill 3 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 4 hours ago, Fritag said: But that's no reason not to crack on bull headedly as a test is it? Of Course it isn't Steve, and bully for you cos it's paid off (couldn't resist a Theodore Roosevelt type comment). If you suspect you'll have trouble reproducing the curvature (although I think you'll be okay using the methods you've proposed) then consider annealing - gentle heat over the stove to a nice cherry red, allowing to cool slowly should do the trick. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 There, luckily Bill @Navy Bird has already proved me wrong, so you can go on full throttle The sandwiching stuff sounds a good idea, eagerly waiting for the result Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) There is no reason for etch not to anneal nicely if you are careful and I/we all know you will be careful edit because well just because I am truly p.'d off with seductive text (no matron don't think about it please) Edited October 12, 2017 by perdu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Taking it to the next level or what, The student has become the master! Just a case now of finding the limit in size you can get down to. A thought did occur to me a few days ago and if you have any darkroom stuff was maybe using 35mm black and white photographic film to photograph a big version of your artwork and scaling it such knowing that a 35mm frame on the negative is 36x24mm could be the way to ultra high definition artworks beyond what an inkjet can do. Just sharing out aloud a random idea that I had. All looking good Steve, keep it up CT 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Nice work again Steve! (and although it's nowhere near as good, I do think that Airfix made a pretty good fist of their attempt!) If the brass should prove too thin to anneal, you could try rolling it gently with something like a round x-acto knife handle (always presuming you don't have proper p.e. rollers!) on something pliable like a mousemat. Pre-curvature may help it keep its shape when conforming to the inside of the canopy. Just a thought, never tried it! Keith 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, keefr22 said: Pre-curvature may help it keep its shape when conforming to the inside of the canopy Teaspoon & mouse-mat. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 51 minutes ago, Cheshiretaurus said: Teaspoon & mouse-mat. Only thing with a teaspoon is that it might introduce uneven curvature due to its shape? Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatalbert Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Just a thought,could you not anneal the brass before etching it? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Looking good, impressive result. If it conforms the end result will be excellent. Fingers crossed! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Massimo Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 ...I foresee a...photo etched end to this thread!!! You got it right and the result is really promising!!! As you say, sticking it to the inside of the canopy may be tricky... I'd try by offering some money to convince it to stand still!!!! In a perfect world, once removed the original one moulded to the canopy, you could dip it in Future first to avoid the clouds caused by ciano acrylate vapours and, once dry you should be able to use a bit of ciano acrylate to stop it in place and then dip it into Future again to "weld "them together. But you probably have more experience than I have, so I'm sure you'll astound us with the final result!!! I'll keep watching! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Oh but I do like your latest PE results there Steve. It's palpably to watch somebody push up against the limits of such materials like that and see how 'how far is too far'. Keep it up sir ...no that sounds all wrong...just keep on doing this sort of thing! Tony 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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