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A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72. Finished.


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2 hours ago, Fritag said:

 

IMG_1388_zpstzxt3dld.jpg

 

 

ah - I thought that the resist had to be opened and handled in the dark before nuking it with the UV.  That has been one of the things putting me off diving feet first into this.

 

So it's okay to open and handle under normal light conditions as long as it's not left out too long ?

 

 

2 hours ago, Fritag said:

(that it was very embarrassing to order on eBay.........)

 

I've bought stranger things (sadly)

 

It certainly looks like you've got it under control.   My digiti secundus and medius are crossed for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by hendie
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Why the heck am I worrying about this?

 

he hasnt even made resist blanks for 30° angled Buccaneer ones...

 

Doh Steve I wouldn't have minded testing your experiments for you

 

 

You brave brave lad

 

;)

 

well done number one

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7 hours ago, perdu said:

Doh Steve I wouldn't have minded testing your experiments for you

I think I'm going to be more straightforward and ask: Steve, how much do you charge for this? :whistle:  :D  

 

Fascinating stuff, by the way; looking forward to next installment

 

Ciao

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On 19/09/2017 at 8:44 PM, Tomoshenko said:

I have bookmarked Mr C's photo etch instructions with a view to experimenting someday,

Now's a good day.  Refreshed after a rejuvenating holiday in Suffolk.  Time on your hands as no need to meet a Group Build deadline.........

 

On 19/09/2017 at 5:31 PM, hendie said:

I've often thought of trying this out but never pushed myself to purchase the necessary alchemists kit 

 

Now's a good time.  Bound to be many small items that would make all the difference to a 1/32 Wessex.........

 

On 19/09/2017 at 9:48 AM, perdu said:

I'm going to love this

You'd love it even more if you joined in the fun.  How many buccaneer VGs have you got to make?

 

On 19/09/2017 at 11:41 AM, CedB said:

 Who knows, I might have a go, sometime...

I refer my learned friend to my above replies - which apply mutatis mutandis.....

Edited by Fritag
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1 hour ago, giemme said:

looking forward to next installment

 

Might not get back to it until the weekend :( Evening commitments tonight tomorrow.  Life has a habit of getting in the way don't it.....

 

11 hours ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

If your not going to develop it in the caustic immediately then make sure you keep it in the dark.

 

Wilco.  Hope they last until the weekend.  If not - well I need the practice anyway - and hopefully the even thinner brass I ordered following @keefr22 and your recommendation will have arrived by then

 

On 19/09/2017 at 11:41 AM, CedB said:

Could you do me / us a favour and let us know where you get the supplies from please (if you don't use Mark's links)?

Haven't forgotten Ced.  Having a bit of trouble tracking down the orders.  Will revert when tracking complete..........

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I suppose this 'ere mutadis stuff can be got from Boots the Chemist

 

Sounds like mucilage which used to be a staple in some chemistry sperrymints back in the dark ages

 

Some (other) day I must look it up

 

 

😉

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Thanks Steve for remembering about the supplies source but, to be honest, I'm just being lazy so don't fret too much - I can look at CT's post (which I've bookmarked!) :)

Talking of fretting you're making us wait until the weekend! I can't wait...

 

Bill 'mutatis mutandis' is, I believe, a legal term that comes from the Latin 'muta' meaning Mother and 'mutand' for an old sheep. It's commonly used to suggest that your female parent dresses more appropriately for her age :D

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1 hour ago, Fritag said:

Life has a habit of getting in the way don't it.....

Annoyingly so, at times ....

 

51 minutes ago, CedB said:

Bill 'mutatis mutandis' is, I believe, a legal term that comes from the Latin 'muta' meaning Mother and 'mutand' for an old sheep. It's commonly used to suggest that your female parent dresses more appropriately for her age :D

:rofl: I like it more than the real thing -> "mutatis mutandis" latin for "changing what needs to be changed" :wink: 

 

Ciao

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On 21/09/2017 at 10:15 AM, CedB said:

Bill 'mutatis mutandis' is, I believe, a legal term that comes from the Latin 'muta' meaning Mother and 'mutand' for an old sheep. It's commonly used to suggest that your female parent dresses more appropriately for her age :D

 

:rofl2:  Wonderful.  No dotard* you Ced.

 

* I was faintly bemused by all the professed ignorance of this word during the week.  Do they not remember their Lord of the Rings?  Gandalf's comment to Denethor that when he is dotard he will die? and Denethor's refusal to be the dotard chamberlain to an upstart king?  Did they not spend their young teenage years reading and rereading LOTR to the extent that bits of it still clog up their middle aged brains?

 

17 hours ago, hendie said:

it's only Friday and the suspense is killing me

Doom.......Doom.......... (drums in the deep)

 

Bu**ger;  More LOTR.  Can't get the so**ing thing out my head now.....

 

I foresee disaster tbh....

 

I did squeeze an hour of modelling time yesterday between work and going out with the missus.  I was too timid to spend it on the chemical phase.  But seeing as my thinner brass sheet selection had arrived (0.001", 0.002" and 0.003" as well as another 0.005"):

 

IMG_1406_zpsuruqrmtp.jpg

 

I used the time to apply the resist to two more brass blanks, this time of 0.002" thickness (which is about 0.05mm).  I have had a decent bit of practice at this stage of the process now.....whilst still having no idea whether the effort will produce any results! :D

 

Anyways I now have resist applied brass blanks for both 1mm and 1.5mm VGs in both 0.05" and 0.002" brass.  These are the two new ones in 0.002" brass.

 

 

IMG_1407_zps2dvzogax.jpg

 

IMG_1408_zpsoshdp8da.jpg

 

I hope to start mixing chemicals this afternoon........or maybe I'll find some compelling reason why I have to put if off for a bit longer......

 

 

 

Edited by Fritag
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Thanks Steve - I'm not feeling my age yet so not quite in my dotage (yes, I did have to look it up even though I'm a bit of a LOTR fan too).

Still feeling like a twenty-five year old but where can you find one of those at this time of the day? :D

(Actually, now my daughters are around thirty I should stop saying that as it's becoming creepy)

 

Do it, DO IT! Can't wait to see how they come out but expecting some Elvish magic...

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2 hours ago, Fritag said:

I hope to start mixing chemicals this afternoon.

 

wouldn't you be a lot better off finding a nice safe hobby like, say... modeling ? 

 

 

2 hours ago, Fritag said:

I foresee disaster tbh....

 

nah.. we have faith in you.

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I did say I foresee disaster right?

 

I removed the protective layer and dunked the resist covered brass in a 5% caustic soda solution for a couple of minutes....and

 

All the resist lifted off - not just the unexposed resist!

 

IThe exposed resist was not a jot more adherent than the unexposed resist.

 

 

IMG_1409_zpssl95fptb.jpg

 

Not once but twice!  The first one was a 1mm VG from Wednesday and the second was a 1.5mm VG from yesterday.

 

IMG_1410_zpsclu2mwno.jpg

 

Hmm.

 

Back to the drawing board......

 

I'd cleaned the brass carefully with rubbing alcohol so don't think its that.

 

Maybe leaving the brass overnight/for a few days - had an effect on the exposed resist? (dunno why it would have had this effect tho')

 

Maybe I need to expose the resist to my particular UV light for longer?  P'raps try 1 minute instead of 45 seconds next time?

 

I've no reason to expect my remaining 2 bits of brass will fare any better - but will give them a go with a new mix of caustic soda.

 

And then I'd better make a few more......

 

:unsure:

 

Edit:

 

Yep the other two were just as bad.  Tried dipping them in the caustic soda for only a few seconds at a time but the exposed and unexposed resist both dissolved/lifted off together!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Fritag
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Doh! Best laid plans and all that...

I have no experience of this alchemy so hopefully a wise member will assist.

Well done for trying Steve and we'll all learn from the exercise :)

Looking forward to episode 2.

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Not seen that happen before. I'm sure you will have but have to rule it out. Did you definitely remove one side of the protective film before applying the resist to the brass. I know you removed the other side before developing. Only thing I can think off. Don't think it would afheard to the brass with it still on. 

 

Another thing to try is apply some resist to a small off cut. And expose it directly for a min or two without the artwork and see if that peels off in the caustic. 

 

If think of anything else I'll put it on here.

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2 minutes ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

Did you definitely remove one side of the protective film before applying the resist to the brass

 

Yes.  Whatever the problem is it isn't that.

 

3 minutes ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

Another thing to try is apply some resist to a small off cut. And expose it directly for a min or two without the artwork and see if that peels off in the caustic. 

 

I'll try that - Cheers CT.

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Like young Ced I have no experience with such alchemy but I wonder whether the uv lamp is powerful enough to make the resist work in such a short time frame

 

Many, many years ago, my first job was silk screen printing

 

We used to expose our ink resistant gelatine to a massive arc lamp for several minutes before we could wash away the unprotected 'print through' sections

 

I would hit the resist with more UV for longer 

 

Are you using the resist that Mark used?

Are you using the lamp that Mark used?

Are you using the same caustic mix that Mark used?

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2 hours ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

And expose it directly for a min or two without the artwork and see if that peels off in the caustic. 

 

Did a variation of this - tried one with 1:30 and one with 2:00 exposure - just changing this variable made no difference.

 

1 hour ago, hendie said:

what about cleaning the surface of the brass with wire wool (and IPA) - maybe that would provide a key for the resist

 

1 hour ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

Could be that the laminator isn't hot enough. Maybe go over it after with the iron afterwards.

 

Tried one (i) using wire wool to thoroughly clean the surface  and (ii) after laminating going over it with an iron (on the 'silks' setting) and then (iii) using 1:30 of exposure to UV:

 

 

IMG_1411_zpstadcg3et.jpg

 

This was after less than 2:00 in the caustic mix.

 

Hey -  at least some of the exposed resist stuck.....progress of a sort :blush:

 

1 hour ago, perdu said:

Are you using the resist that Mark used?

Are you using the lamp that Mark used?

Are you using the same caustic mix that Mark used?

Definitely using the same caustic mix ratio.

 

As for the resist and lamp and caustic soda - I followed Mark's links when I was buying all the stuff - but it was about 9 months ago and I can't honestly remember if I was able to use the same supplier for everything or not.  The lamp looks to be at least generically the same.

 

I suspect my old laminator can't be hot enough because the exposed resist adhered better after using the iron.

 

I could order some more resist - it's very cheap - just in case - but a bad workman blames his tools......

 

I'll try again with a tad hotter iron (wool setting) and a tad longer exposure (2:00)

 

If it was too easy it wouldn't be a challenge and it wouldn't be as enjoyable.......

 

 

 

 

 

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