Leonl Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I am currently building, in 1/72, the Airfix Chipmunk and Airfix FW 190. I have dealt with the seams and joins and have sprayed on a few coats of Vallejo primer, (thinned 80/20). It has gone on lovely, nice and smooth with good coverage etc. However, my problems have now begun! I have found a few visible seams and the odd area where extra filler was needed etc. Having applied more filler and sanding back to smooth the primer has peeled/flaked off in small areas. This is the first time that I have used Vallejo primer. I wanted a suitable primer that can be put through my airbrush with a simple clean up and not too smelly, as that bothers Mrs L! I had read various reviews and was aware that some have found that Vallejo can peel away so I lightly sanded the surface before application to give the paint a key etc. I’m looking for some advice on a few issues, firstly the cause. Have I thinned it too much/not enough? Or when sanding back the primer have I used a too course grade and simple scratched it off? Secondly what to do now, sand it all off of try or feather the edges? When I try to feather the edges it just seems to get bigger would it be easier to get a fine sander and take it all back to the plastic and start again. Thanks in advance. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesmodels Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Hi Leon, I've heard, not tried, that mixing the primer with 25-50% clear stops it from peeling when sanding. Cheers, Mike. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Hi Leon, I've heard, not tried, that mixing the primer with 25-50% clear stops it from peeling when sanding. Cheers, Mike. Thanks Mike, I'll give that a go... Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Vallejo primer isn't an etching primer and can take several days to harden. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Vallejo primer isn't an etching primer and can take several days to harden. Paul Thanks Paul, it was left for 3 days in a warm dry environment before I went back to it. I would think it would ok by then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiserguy Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Hi Leoni, See Kev67's post October 2014 - I think it was 24 October. He posts a YouTube video showing how to use Klear to sand Vallejo polyurethane primers. Best Wishes, Will. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Hi Leoni, See Kev67's post October 2014 - I think it was 24 October. He posts a YouTube video showing how to use Klear to sand Vallejo polyurethane primers. Best Wishes, Will. Thanks Will, I'll take a look at that. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usetherudders Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I've had the same problem with the stuff this week, left for a week to cure and when you need to sand it just seems to rip off the model, very frustrating! When I try to reapply in the area it doesn't look right but I don't want to strip the model back. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Had exactly the same problems and simply stopped using it and went back to using enamel/cellulose paints for primer coat and only use acrylics afterwards. In my opinion a primer coat that is "non-etching" is pointless. HTH Andy Edited March 18, 2015 by andym 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 I've had the same problem with the stuff this week, left for a week to cure and when you need to sand it just seems to rip off the model, very frustrating! When I try to reapply in the area it doesn't look right but I don't want to strip the model back. Had exactly the same problems and simply stopped using it and went back to using enamel/cellulose paints for primer coat and only use acrylics afterwards. In my opinion a primer coat that is "non-etching" is pointless. HTH Andy Hi Leoni, See Kev67's post October 2014 - I think it was 24 October. He posts a YouTube video showing how to use Klear to sand Vallejo polyurethane primers. Best Wishes, Will. Thanks all for the comments. I've taken the primer off both models now. Surprisingly easy, not a good sign! It seems that adding Klear is the way forward. BUT, I do not have any and it seems only available for ridiculously high prices on eBay. In any event, what is the point of such a fragile and temperamental surface preparation? I'll go back to rattle can primer, not an ideal solution but at least it achieves the primary goal. I may decant it and spray it on with my airbrush rather than the fire extinguisher blast that normally comes out of those things!! Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I can't see why it would have to be Klear and not one of the other acrylic gloss varnishes, such as Quickshine or Alclad Aqua gloss. I would assume that it is the dilution with the varnish that leads to the ability to sand rather than something specifically only in Klear. That said I've not tried it so I'm only speculating... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I just can't understand why folk would go through the rigmarole of adding this and that to something to hopefully get it to work, in this case Vallejo's primer, when there are primers available that do the job perfectly well without the faff, life's to short for that kind of nonsense. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 The only real downside the the etching primers is that they tend to be cellulose based and hence are a bit nasty. Plus of course if you've purchased the vallejo primer you might not want to waste it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 I just can't understand why folk would go through the rigmarole of adding this and that to something to hopefully get it to work, in this case Vallejo's primer, when there are primers available that do the job perfectly well without the faff, life's to short for that kind of nonsense.mCompletely agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 The only real downside the the etching primers is that they tend to be cellulose based and hence are a bit nasty. Plus of course if you've purchased the vallejo primer you might not want to waste it... This is true but would rather not have all the faff and then still find out that it has not worked. I'll probably use the Vallejo primer where I know with certainty that I will not be going near it with anything abrasive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 It seems that adding Klear is the way forward. BUT, I do not have any and it seems only available for ridiculously high prices on eBay. You can buy it here (and other places) and it's been good for me as a Newbie. Lots of posts on this and 'the old formula' but the general consensus is (I think) that this does the same job (provides a flat gloss coat and makes clear plastic shine). HTH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyhunter66 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I had this problem as well but switched to Alclad primers instead and haven't looked back! No faffing about - go on smoothly and can be sanded without any issues. No diluting, thinning needed! Chris 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 You can buy it here (and other places) and it's been good for me as a Newbie. Lots of posts on this and 'the old formula' but the general consensus is (I think) that this does the same job (provides a flat gloss coat and makes clear plastic shine). HTH Thanks for that CedB, I'll get some of that. I had this problem as well but switched to Alclad primers instead and haven't looked back! No faffing about - go on smoothly and can be sanded without any issues. No diluting, thinning needed! Chris Thanks Chris, what's the clean up like with Alcad? Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyhunter66 Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Thanks for that CedB, I'll get some of that. Thanks Chris, what's the clean up like with Alcad? Leon all fine with Alcad - I've had no issues with it at all to be honest. I've also just used Halfords primer out of the rattle can and that is good as well - used it on an airliner this week, then sprayed Tamiya TS14 gloss black on top and then Alcald airframe silver - all went well! chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The James Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 To be honest I'd ditch it completely. A primer that can't be sanded is surely a failed product? 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Thanks for the comments, very useful. I've more or less finished removing the Vallejo primer from the kits now and bought a can of the old faithful Halfords rattle can.... Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Had this exact same experience with the stuff. Now using Tamiya Fine primer from a rattle can. Not cheap but by far the best stuf I've used. Sprays without hassle, dry to the touch in minutes and can be sanded after a few hours. Tried some Halford rattle cans as well but they don't go on as smooth which can hide smaller details. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Had this exact same experience with the stuff. Now using Tamiya Fine primer from a rattle can. Not cheap but by far the best stuf I've used. Sprays without hassle, dry to the touch in minutes and can be sanded after a few hours. Tried some Halford rattle cans as well but they don't go on as smooth which can hide smaller details. I may give that a go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azureglo Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Thanks for that CedB, I'll get some of that. Thanks Chris, what's the clean up like with Alcad? Leon In lieu of Ced answering, clean up is cellulose (lacquer) thinners or Alclads version which is outrageously expensive. I use nowt but Alclad grey/White/Black now (apart from Poundland spray cans which are a perfect match for my Mr Color RLM 66), I even used it as the ANA 602 grey in last GB here. Alclad primer is lacquer based so don't even think of spraying without a face mask with organic vapour filters and preferably an extraction booth. A little tip: I find instead of misting it on which will give a very gritty surface, come in to about 2-3 inches from the model at 15 PSI and go for a semi wet coat. This will dry rock hard in 30 minutes to a lovely smooth finish which you can sand and is virtually peel and scratch proof. Anil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks Anil, very useful. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now