larchiefeng Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Roy, Without your descriptions here I don't think most would appreciate just how complicated and how much work is going into this build. I agree with everybody else, this is fantastic that you are taking the time to show us and explain not only the build but the thought and decision making process that you do during a build. I'm sure there are many many people watching this build without comment but, speaking for myself it is a pleasure and very instructive to observe and read just how a very complex kit gets approached and built by a master modeler. Thanks for taking the time to help us all build a better model. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Master modeller...??? Me...??? I'm just a retired old geezer with a lot of spare time, and who is a bit 'O.C.D.' with small bits of kits. However, I'm very pleased if my long-winded waffle is of help. I do now intend making a 'DVD' in the Paul Koo Pocher style that will have FAR more detail and umpteen times more annotated photo's as well as oodles of reference. What I'm posting here is a 'taster' version that hopefully is of help (and interest?) to some of you. Many thanks for the kind words. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhouse Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 It's of great interest to me, Roy, as my Traction arrived today 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Watching along with everyone else, and with much enthusiasm and wonderment. A great job so far, and it bodes well for an excellent finish too by the look of it! I am myself still trying to source one of these - it probably still being my one and only - if not current, Grail kit. I know they can be had for top dollar but I'm a little cheaper than that, and cannot really justify RRP. Around a oner plus shipping would temp me though - anyone knows or spots one - give us a buzz will ya'!!! ...................... ............ smiling of course. Well .... no-one told me did they? ........................ Creative models - it had a few for sale at £104 "shipped". Just as well I spotted them purely by chance, and have one mid-transit as we speak. Noticed that another has been sold too! ................ Also noticed they have been revised back up to RRP@ £159.99. Perhaps it was an Easter offer?? Anyhoo, pretty glad I jumped in when I did - been waiting since forever to get a hold of one of these ... and it's NOT going to end up as loft insulation either. I'll be making a start as soon as it hits the bench. Will obviously be watching this build take shape - so many thanks for providing a leading light. Cheers all. Edited April 5, 2015 by Little Andi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 That sounds like two more kits bought since you started a more in depth account of this build; Codger you are a prophet! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Codger you are a prophet! And hopefully Roy will profit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) Many thanks for the kind words everyone. I'm only happy that my waffle might be of help. No - profit isn't what it's about anyway. OK.... On we go..... I've 'simplified' a lot of my text here quite a bit, as I've written a HUGE amount in my actual build file and at this rate, this thread will be umpteen pages long WITHOUT any replies...... Also, I've only posted a small sample of the dozens and dozens of build pictures I've taken. Roy. SECTION C - in the kit instructions This section gives details on assembling the upper inner ‘deck’ that form the top surfaces of the left, right and rear bulkhead.Also described is the fitting of several ancillary parts including the battery. It is highly likely that the rear wall of the bulkhead is warped. It is very important that this panel is absolutely straight so that the upper ‘deck’ panel – part 627 – will fit neatly. Bracing should be added in the event of any warp. This can be done using metal tube of sufficient strength without being too ‘hefty’. Roughen the surface of the metal and fix with epoxy or a strong Cyano adhesive. To simplify the build: Use tape to hold firewall brace - part 335 - against the rear of the upper deck and apply glue underneath. See pictures. Two brackets – parts 266 & 334 – should be fitted next.Make sure you fit the tiny bracket – part 266 – first.Allow these brackets to dry fully before attempting to fit the actuating lever – part 414 – and the small spring.Make the spring as previously described, following the measurements in the kit instructions. WEATHERING THE UPPER DECK Very often, these cars were well looked after and although the bodywork was frequently washed and polished, little in the way of cleaning was done under the bonnet (hood.) The upper deck would rarely get dirty or muddy water on it due to where it is in relation to the wheels.However, over a period of time dust would certainly settle and this is normally a much lighter shade of brown than dirty water or light rust. A mist coat of matt sand should be applied next but take care that the upper deck panel does not end up too contrasting to the engine bay inner walls.To remedy this, a very light mist coat of matt sand should be sprayed around the UPPER area of the engine bay walls. If the upper deck ends up looking too ‘brown’, tone it down with layers of matt black, comparing each layer to the engine bay and chassis as you go.It must not look ‘too’ different.When the upper deck is dry, further weathering can be added. Bear in mind the GOLDEN rule… ALL weathering, dust, dirt, fluids, water – it flows DOWNWARDS.Do not let your weathering run across any parts.Always consider gravity. There are five very small decals and one EXTREMELY small decal to apply to the fluid reservoir.Pay attention to their locations which is called out on pages 5 & 11 of the kit instructions.At first glance, the diagrams on page 11 make it look as if three decals go on the fluid reservoir, and the other three go on the coil. This is not so. All of the decals go on the fluid reservoir. ........................................... Edited April 28, 2015 by roymattblack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Just perfect patina...a car used near daily for many years. Very hard to do and perfectly done here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Very nice progress Roy, The kit looks very detailed indeed. I'm looking forward to following your progress on this one. Best Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiking Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Great weathering. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Well, just to say, as a direct result of this thread (amongst others) that I was finally moved to obtain this grail kit of mine. And DANG! ............. is this box big............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) Another 'wordy' update here although I have cut it down enormously from my full build diary... ASSEMBLING THE BODY - PAGE 12 KIT INSTRUCTIONS Due to the somewhat poor fit of many of the body parts, it is highly advisable to assemble the body OFF the chassis as opposed to the kit instructions which show the bodywork being assembled onto the chassis/floor.This will allow the unavoidable gaps and visible joins to be dealt with more easily.It will also make painting the bodywork far easier, without the need for excessive masking of the floor, engine bay and front suspension. MAIN BODY PARTS The two large side panels – parts 625 & 626 - are very clean and flash free but the small sprue joins need cutting back and smoothing. These mouldings are usually free of sink and pin marks.Remove the cross-braces in the door openings and clean up the sprue joints. The side panels should now be clamped to the floor section – DO NOT GLUE. Locate the roof section – part 676 – and tape in place between the body sides.Tape the scuttle below the front windscreen to the body sides. If the body sides are too far apart from the engine bay upper deck, the foot-well panel previously mentioned – part 628 – will need to be trimmed back. Sharp scissors will cut this panel easily. It will be noticed that the roof section does not fit particularly well either at the front, or the rear.At the front, the scuttle ends do not curve downwards far enough to reach the side panels and the same problem exists at the rear. Coupled with that, Hellers’ non-use of any locating pins, points or tabs makes it extremely difficult to locate the roof panel above the door frames.In both parts the mating surfaces of the plastic is extremely thin and there is nothing to help keeping the parts in place as the glue dries. First, get the front windscreen/door frame supports in line and firmly taped together.Fortunately there is a moulded ridge in both parts in this area which makes location easy.MAKE SURE you have these parts correctly aligned as the rest of the body/roof assembly depends on this. Get the join between the scuttle and side panel on one side of the car as tight as you possible can and tape it together. Do not worry about the other side of the body for now.Do not glue ANY part of the body to the chassis/floor/engine bay area. From the INSIDE of the car, apply a good bead of cement to the join.Due to the large scale of the model, the join is easily accessible. LEAVE THIS JOIN UNTIL FULLY SET. Pull one rear corner of the roof panel down tight into position on the matching rear side panel.Tape this joint firmly in place and also clamp the rear door frame where it meets the roof panel. Make absolutely sure that the roof panel is sitting neatly and straight along the whole length of the top of the side panel. Apply a good bead of glue to the inside join you have just taped in place at the rear of the body. LEAVE THIS JOIN TO FULLY SET. Lastly, remove the tape around the front windscreen down pillars and carefully apply a good bead of glue to the join. In this instance, glue will need to be applied to the outside of the body so take extra care here to keep the join neat. REAR BODY Tape the rear boot/trunk panel – part 641 - in place at the rear of the body.This is one of the FEW parts in the kit that has a locating lip along one edge.Tuck the panel in place under the roof section and tape the edges, and clamp the centre.This panel should fit neatly with little trouble. ALLOW THIS JOIN TO FULLY SET. REAR OUTER WHEEL ARCHES/FENDERS These two parts - 670 & 675 - fit quite well in place but the locating lip on each arch/fender is actually about 1.5mm too long and should be trimmed shorter at the rear end or they will not sit neatly in the locating groove on the body. Tape the arches in place and apply a good bead of glue INSIDE the arches, along the locating lip joint. DO NOT apply any glue beyond the locating lip, toward the back of the car. ALLOW THESE JOINS TO FULLY SET. BOOT/TRUNK FLOOR SECTION The boot/trunk floor – parts 645 & 653 (already previously assembled) – is a very important component in getting the correct shape and curve at the back of the car.It is extremely important that this assembly is fitted correctly.Unfortunately it also happens to be one of the poorest fitting parts of the entire kit. Glue the lower rear edge of the boot/trunk panel – part 641 – to the new ‘lip’ created on the lower rear part just fitted. Tape this part together. There WILL be gaps all around the rear panel of the car where it meets the rear wheel arches/fenders and lower panel. These gaps will be filled and smoothed later on. Apply glue all along the joint line both inside and outside the body. Use tape or clamps wherever needed to keep the parts in alignment.Turn the body upside-down and tape the flat floor panel tightly between the inner arch panels.The floor fits BETWEEN the arch panels and not on top of them. Where the boot/trunk floor assembly fits between the rear wheel arch panels, apply a good bead of glue. Make sure the panels are equally positioned inside the car on both sides. ALLOW TO DRY FULLY. Leave the body to one side for now. ............................... (BTW..... I have only posted a small selection of the annotated pictures I've created.) Roy Edited April 28, 2015 by roymattblack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 A superb tutorial for this kit Roy. Your work in explaining 'out-Koos' Koo because you go inch by inch where his intent was to only point out problem areas or modifications. The comfort zone for a first-time big builder is much higher with your guidance. One can bathe in that over-turned body shell!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) Many thanks you guys bit I'm cutting out all the build-waffle for now. I think the postings are a bit long-winded for the majority. The car is going to be black over maroon and over the past week I've been painting the main shell. It's now had the final black layer and is awaiting a polish. Roy. Edited April 24, 2015 by roymattblack 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Looks superb, wonderful work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Beautiful color scheme Roy. Seats black or tan?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Beautiful color scheme Roy. Seats black or tan?? I'm going to cover them in leather - a darker red. Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Very nice progress Roy, The paint finish looks very slick, is this Halfords rattle can paint? I really like the colour scheme you have chosen, dark red or Ox blood leather will really set this off. Best Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mothy Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Many thanks you guys bit I'm cutting out all the build-waffle for now. I think the postings are a bit long-winded for the majority. Roy. I like the waffling, especially informative waffling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Very nice progress Roy, The paint finish looks very slick, is this Halfords rattle can paint? I really like the colour scheme you have chosen, dark red or Ox blood leather will really set this off. Best Regards Keith. Hello there. Yes, ordinary Halfords rattle cans. The leather is a shade lighter than the maroon body paint. ........Masking tape off now - allowing it a good two weeks to harden off in a big, clean closed box... Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Hello there. Yes, ordinary Halfords rattle cans. The leather is a shade lighter than the maroon body paint. ........Masking tape off now - allowing it a good two weeks to harden off in a big, clean closed box... Roy. Thanks very much for the reply Roy, the finish you have achieved "out of the can" is stunning. Best Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 One seat assembled and leather covered. Roy. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Lovely paintwork - did you paint the doors/bonnet etc as well or do you do those separately? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 One seat assembled and leather covered. Roy. You make it look too easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) You make it look too easy! Fortunately, the seats in this particular car are very basic and 'boxy'. Covering them is really pretty simple. Roy. Edited April 25, 2015 by roymattblack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now