Jump to content

1/6 "Touch of Ice" from roiginal Luis Royo artwork


Grant

Recommended Posts

And now for something completely different! A foray into large scale figure painting.

4 years ago I did a Manga figure (badly) for my daughter and attended a model show in France, where there were lots of very good figures on display. Ever since I have felt the need to have another go at figures and having spotted this one on E2046, and her sister piece “Ritual”, and with several ‘flesh’ sets of paints appearing now seemed a good time.

This figure, “Touch of Ice”, is sculpted from original art work by Luis Royo, a Spanish fantasy artist.

pic_1.jpg

The instructions are minimalist

pic_2.jpg

and the resin parts are very nicely cast, not a bubble in sight, and this kit comes with a set of tattoo decals.

pic_3.jpg

I have done the basic clean up of all the large bits and here are the results of the first dry fit.

pic_4.jpg

pic_5.jpg

Unfortunately here shawl doesn’t fit very well and it contains the only visible join line once the model is complete. So far this looks like the only bit that will cause me problems – well apart from painting the face that is!

Wish me luck.

Cheers

Grant

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Grant,

the more I see of these models, the more I'm tempted!

Regards

Reggie

There are so many to choose from aswell. If I manage to make a good fist of these two I might be tempted by something from these guys http://www.n-s-prod.com/article-bientot-disponible-121639156.html Their street seller vigniettes look amazing.

Gave all the major parts a wash yesterday and a coat of Halfords primer this afternoon. The bench looks really macarbe with a head and various limbs lying about!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have decided to use the Scale75 flesh paint set but needed to practice paint with it first – flesh coloured Beaufort anyone? Of all the thinners I have, Tamiya, Mr Color, White Spirit and Cellulose, the only thing that seemed to work for these paints was just plain water. I added a single drop of flow enhancer to break the surface tension of the water and that seemed to spray and dry quite well.

pic_6.jpg

So, enough of flesh coloured aircraft - onto the model. So far I have just used the basic flesh colour overall – highlights and shadows to follow. The cape is Vallejo Dark Earth with black shadows added by hand. The hair is Vallejo Burnt Umber with black shadows and Scale75 Necro Gold highlights with a satin coat to give a little shine. The boots are Burnt Umber and the glove is Vallejo Leather with the metal detail picked out in different colours to help decide what to use.

pic_7.jpg

pic_8.jpg

So far so good, but any figure modellers out there feel free to jump in and advise.

Cheers

Grant

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My guess about Scale75 paint is that they are vinyl based acrylics, so you can thin them with either water or their specific thinner. I also use a home brewed thinner for that kind of colors, which is a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Windex (well, an ammonia based detergent, anyway), plus a few drops of Tamiya's flow improver. I tested this on Lifecolor's and Italeri's (which are reboxed Vallejo's, if I remember correctly).

Nice job so far, by the way.

Ciao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So many different variations for acrylics! I am gradually feeling my way (Humbrol enamel man through and through) and getting to grips with them. Thanks for the confirmation that it is not a completely silly thinner mix.

The biggest problem I am having now is NOT handling or knocking the painted surfaces. There is some heavy resin pieces here. When the airbrushing is finished some varnish should stop such problems...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The biggest problem I am having now is NOT handling or knocking the painted surfaces. There is some heavy resin pieces here. When the airbrushing is finished some varnish should stop such problems...

Definitely. The way I do this is: I start painting from the top (face and head), and when it's finished, I seal it with a matt coat. Then I proceed towards the bottom: upper body, legs, shoes/boots, other flesh parts, sealing with matt varnish after each step. This, of course, when I'm brush painting; I understand that using an airbrush, you may want to paint per-groups (of the same color), so to say ....

Ciao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes Giemme - definitely working in colour groups at the moment with the airbrush. But onto brush work now...

Progress on the face. Tentative shading and eyeballs, lips and hair painted.

pic_9.jpg

Then a bit more shading and eyebrows and eye lashes – need bushier eyebrows!

pic_10.jpg

It is all shinny as given the whole thing a coat of Klear, ready for adding the tattoo decals.

Here is the left leg, I have gone with a light coat of metallic green, trying for a sheer stocking effect. The camera really is picking out shadow colours, which are not that obvious by eye in natural light. We’ll see what happens once a matt coat goes back on.

pic_11.jpg

And here is the main body ready for the stomach and arm decals.

pic_12.jpg

That’s all for now.

Cheers

Grant

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice - I like the slight speckly look to the legs where the colours are blended, it looks like real skin and suits the realistic proportions better than a porcelain-smooth anime paint job.

Random observations: The draping of the cloth on the right upper leg is a lovely bit of sculpting, and I actually really like the four different metals on the glove - I reckon you should keep them like that.

Will

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks folks.

Will - I agree, the undercloth is an great bit of sculpting. And I have since painted the metals on the glove the same colour and, like you, I think it looked a lot better as different colours so I'll be re-painting them - again.

cheers

Grant

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, "just released" may not be completely accurate as its been available for about 2 years. But I only found out about it recently so it's new to me ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what gets me about acrylics. They are all different! Different thinners, pigments etc.

Still the water + flow enhancer is working well at the moment (and it is cheap!), but thanks for the link Billy.

I have painted all the details now and got the decals on, so now it is just the inner cape, which will fight me all the way - I just know it....

cheers

Grant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have now painted all the swords, jewellery and leather straps.

pic_13.jpg

Unfortunately one piece of body art, on the right arm, was such a badly molded piece with very heavy stubs it was unrecoverable, by me, so I am having to fill the holes in the arm and repaint.

The other arm is looking much better. The tattoo decal is on, thanks to THC for the hairdryer tip last year, as it would never have settled properly otherwise. The arm warmer sleeve has been lightly sprayed Elven Gold to look like a very thin piece of cloth, to match the shawl (I hope).

pic_14.jpg

The face is now finished. Eye decals used I am afraid, and some very careful painting of the body pins!

pic_15.jpg

And now onto the shawl. First a coat of flesh, as I hope to make this look see through. Yes I did break the strap. This item is not a good fit and the join between the two will need some filler and repainting when it is ON the figure…

pic_16.jpg

cheers

Grant

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This technique was suggested for thick decals, where the backing or the ink needed 'help' to conform to compound curves.

Get the decal ready in your normal way, but do not put any Micro sol/set or Klear on the model - just use water.

Place the decal and use a soft wet brush to start the laying down process. Then, on a low heat, gently heat with the hair dryer. Start little and often with the heat, using the brush (and water) in between heating to push down the decal. You can see the change in the decal as it heats - it starts to conform to the shape rather than sitting above it. The trick is to use plenty of water to stop it sticking before you get it into all the nooks and crannies you are trying to get it into.

I have a 2 stage dryer (the wife's old one) and just use the first stage. It has worked on a variety of aftermarket and kit decals and so far all with great success (even the first time). In this the case the backing film was so thick it seemed like the only way to get it down.

Good Luck!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually starting to put the figure together now. I knew the shawl was going to cause problems and after much carving away of body and shawl it is still a big problem.

From the front it looks like it is all coming together nicely…

pic_17.jpg

But from the back – not so much. There is an almost 3mm gap at the top and a step that is as big as the piece is thick!

pic_18.jpg

The good news is, that I seem to have filled it OK and managed to keep folds where I needed them.

pic_19.jpg

So close to finishing I am having to force myself to not rush it at this late stage. I am hoping to have it ready for Cosford…

Cheers

Grant

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it is a hard won lesson. If I find myself rushing I do (for the most part!) walk away and do something else.

Unfortunately, having stacked everything up ready for glueing, it is clear the face and body don't match on colour! The body is much pinker - or is the face much darker. Not quite sure how that happened. I think the body has had a few more coats than the face. Doh!

I'll look in daylight tomorrow and decide what to do about it, but either option is going to be more difficult at this late stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...