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I'm blaming Roy for this!


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About 50 years ago I remember seeing the AMT 1/12 scale Cord 812 in my LMS.

Way out of my range. About 8 years ago, I found one on ebay, it was in California

and I put in a bid. In that week, three more appeared, including a sealed one in Surrey. Anyways, I won this one in the good ol' U S of A, and it duly arrived.

This was described as 'complete and unstarted'. I think English and American English lose something in translation. This is how it arrived.

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You might be surprised to learn I gave the seller some negative feedback.

Complete? No. at least 2 missing components, but nothing I can't handle.

Unstarted? No. badly assembled and partly dismantled. Glue everywhere, scratches on the bodywork and some chrome rubbed through.

It went straight into the loft.

Now.......having seen Roy and Codger's work, amongst others, I think it's time I made a start on this basket case. Don't expect miracles, or a fast build,

but it will get done, with the odd update.

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No Bentwaters.... Nooooooooooooooooo

Dont listen to Codger and Roy, once you get into that Pocher lair, its oveeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....... (echoing voice effect for dramatic effect :))

That big Cord is actually a very nice kit, or should I say it was, but im sure you can whip it up into shape in no time

Steve

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"Unstarted" on eBay typically seems to mean a few parts are glued. "Started" usually means a half-assembled glue bomb with parts missing!

Good luck with your build. I've always wanted one of those big Cords. I regret not buying one when they were last released back in the 90's.

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Nothing much to report. Been dismantling parts, I think the guy used a whole tube of glue on every joint. Some of it is nigh impossible to shift. Biggest problem is splitting the gearbox from the front crossmember. It has been assembled back-to-front. Aside from that I'm smoothing out moulding seams and polishing the body shell with Brasso. Because the wrap around grille is integral and pre-chromed, I'm reluctant to try and change the colour scheme. The instructions simply suggest spraying the body with a clear gloss lacquer. Once I have the blemishes buffed out, I may do just that.

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I think the guy used a whole tube of glue on every joint. Some of it is nigh impossible to shift. Biggest problem is splitting the gearbox from the front crossmember.

I never had cause to try it but I've read that many deep-freeze the part(s) which allows the glue joint to break apart. May be worth a try on a small part as a test. Just be careful of brittle plastic.

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I've got the gearbox in the freezer, but last time i tried it didn't work. Biggest problem is the guy didn't glue parts together, he made a glue sandwich. The plastic doesn't meet, it looks like it has a layer of peanut butter in between the parts. One crossmember has a big enough gap to use a Dremel cutting disc in between.

Another problem is the tan interior. Said plonker has painted part of a door card with black paint, and I haven't managed to find a way to shift it yet.

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Try 90% alcohol on that black paint. You may have to gently scuff the paint a bit. DOT 3 Brake fluid also works. If you can get a hold of some degreaser like Super Clean that we have in the states, that sometimes works. At last resort the very expensive Poly S paint remover the model train guys use will work sometimes. I think it's made by Floquil.

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The real problem is that most modern half decent poly cements works by actually chemically 'melting' the plastic, and thereby letting the two pieces really bond together.

Effectively, the two parts becomes one piece of plastic and NOTHING will separate them.

That's when the saw/breaking/Dremel is the only solution...

Roy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No more pictures yet. The previous owner must have been dyslexic. Every part he assembled was either upside down or back to front. The chassis members that take the rear engine mounts had been swapped over, and there are chunks missing where he had broken them apart. The steering has been assembled for right hand drive, so that has come apart as well. I have to make up some ball joints - I'm hoping to get the steering working as it should, but this is really some ham-fisted modelling.

I think a Pocher might have been easier, at least it's nuts and bolts. This is like trying to weld cornflakes. I don't think the ancient plastic is much help either, the liquid glue doesn't seem to bond it properly. I'm hoping the next shot will show the completed chassis. :banghead:

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  • 5 weeks later...

Dear Mr Bentwaters

How about an update on your build, as I do love reading about other peoples woes. But I'm sure that it will all turn out ok with your

skill in building larger models.

Regards

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Dear Mr Bentwaters

How about an update on your build, as I do love reading about other peoples woes. But I'm sure that it will all turn out ok with your

skill in building larger models.

Regards

Steve, stop taking the piddle!

At present there is a B-52 under refit hogging all the modelling table. As it is destined for the Museum, it's taking priority. You should see it next meeting. The Cord will then be back.

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  • 5 months later...

I really think you should re-evaluate your priorities, museum shhmuseum, they can wait, it's us who cant,I mean I've been sitting on the edge of my seat for so long now my hair keeps getting in my eyes and my beard is so long I can't see my lap anymore, please have some sympathy for me and countless others in the same plight and give us our next update, anyway I'm desperate for a pee(not been for weeks for fear of missing the next update) come on chap hurry save an old man an embarrassing moment.

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Yup... Agreement here, particularly as I'm apparently the blame for all this.

It can be great fun sorting out 'iffy' kits.

Let us know how it goes.

If it really becomes a chore, there are a good few here who would be happy to take it up where you've left of.

Keep it going.

Roy.

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