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Is there a difference between the Spartan and Scimitar/Scorpion tracks then?

I remember having a problem getting them to fit on my Scimitar 2 but I solved it simply by chopping off the sprocket tabs which didn't match the track holes - its very difficult to see them anyway once the tracks are on.

Shouldn't be, just the Fruils are made for the AFV Club Scimitar/Scorpion kits which are IM rather than Resin,

That's the fix I'll use fella, just cut the sprocket teeth off where it meets. :-)

Dan

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No expert but when i was researching CVRT tracks from Fruil they do a late and early version as the prototype had changes to the drive sprocket, i think they had overheating issues in Gulf 1. So i guess which variant did AA model?

Modeller of your calibre it will be a minor set back.

Mr Dissolved Putty LOL!, just got my Mr Surfacer today! Dear model shop please send me.......

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No expert but when i was researching CVRT tracks from Fruil they do a late and early version as the prototype add changes to the drive sprocket, i think they had issues in Gulf 1. So i guess which variant did AA model?

Modeller of your Calibre it will be a minor set back.

Mr Dissolved Putty LOL!, just got my Mr Surfacer today! Dear model shop please send me.......

It's no real problem fella :thumbsup: Just something to point out to those who might be considering a similar build :evil_laugh:

Just adding the other bits an bobs to the upper hull, and a bit more track bashing tonight, second BAE added

and some general clean up of the parts.

Pictures to follow.

Dan

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Coming together quickly, will there be a crew / diorama?

Kev

Thanks Kev, Sure will be a diorama, I'm thinking about it at the moment :evil_laugh:

So the rear camnet bin is now done.

Tools for the job are below. Soldering just makes it that much more stronger, ideal for this type of part.

CIMG4435_zpsdnqkkmmc.jpg

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CIMG4433_zpsgjkcyywv.jpg

CIMG4432_zpsgypv8rhe.jpg

CIMG4431_zpsqdmwn1u1.jpg

And placed on the door.

CIMG4436_zpspk90eyhp.jpg

CIMG4437_zpslx609jlp.jpg

A few more bits to add to it like the D-10 reel but It looks good :thumbsup2:

Cheers

Dan

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Nice soldering iron! I've been thinking about moving to solder from CY glue for PE assembly like this but my trusty old soldering iron is just too... well cr... er rubbish really :)

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Nice soldering iron! I've been thinking about moving to solder from CY glue for PE assembly like this but my trusty old soldering iron is just too... well cr... er rubbish really :)

Kallisti, go for it fella, I find an iron very difficult to use tbh, one of the Nimrod light duty blow torches are great, this is my second one as the valve failed

on the first one after 15 years of service, I think I paid 30 quid for it. The solder paint is the real secret, its expensive but yet again I've had this tub for 15 years

and I've not used much, it really makes the difference when soldering up small parts. The above basket was folded up and the edges held In place with Tamiya

masking tape, one quick pass of the torch and 3 joints were soldered up. Didn't set fire to the tape either ! :goodjob:

Cheers

Dan

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Thanks Roger, :thumbsup:

So onto the running gear, drilled and pinned with brass rod.

Drills that I use.

CIMG4446_zpsfbe5qszl.jpg

CIMG4449_zps95opxozt.jpg

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None of the swing arms are fixed with glue yet, I'm going to make a jig from plastic card to set the arms, I'll CA glue this to the bottom of the hull and it will be removed

one they are all set.

CIMG4444_zpsqtcvryqy.jpg

Rear axels for the idler wheels will be the last part of the build glued, so all the painting will be done, weathering of the tracks

and the final two parts will be setting the track tension and gluing the axels.

Rear door fire extinguisher added along with the D-10 reel bracket, again soldered.

CIMG4443_zpsnqrz7mhq.jpg

CIMG4445_zpswxkit9yb.jpg

Enjoy

Dan

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Hello mate. Just out of interest. Why have you pinned them?

Just as a belt and braces approach fella, CA glue and resin, butt joint, I just don't want it to fail once it's all done. Plus the weight of the fruil tracks .

Dan

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Just as a belt and braces approach fella, CA glue and resin, butt joint, I just don't want it to fail once it's all done. Plus the weight of the fruil tracks .

Dan

Doing that way Dan I guess you could consider your diorama surface and have an uneven surface and swing the arms to suit?

Whose is the drill set, I bought some last year but not such a large collection I.e. A tenth of that lot.

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Might of already been mentioned somewhere but, may I just ask what sort of colour scheme you will be doing it in?

Excellent build so far by the way! If it turns out anything like your Chieftain, your on to a winner!

Going for a mid 90's Spartan in green and black on a diorama base, just working out the details at the moment, thanks for the comment on the Chieftain, glad you enjoyed the thread :-)

Br

Dan

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