noeyedears Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 You are doing a great job on this. I had the same problem with the front brake and ended up breaking a part. Glad you had more luck. I also broke the hanger bracket fir the exhaust so watch that one too. For such a complicated front end it seemed to go together really well. You may want to try stretched heatshrink tube for the brake lines etc. The tamiya tube is waàaay too thick.a bit of braided hose on the shocks and rad looks good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks for all the nice comments. G'day people, The frame is finally together, it went together without any hassles, Next up, it was time for the donk to be installed, My left sub frame modification seemed to do the trick and I think I have gotten away with my earlier stuff up! The engine is trapped between the two sub frames, and further secured using four small screws (provided in the kit). I had no problem installing three of the screws however I had a little trouble installing the fourth screw (it's always the last one isn't it!) so I ended up backing off the other three retaining screws so that the engine had a little play. This seemed to do the trick and once the fourth screw started to 'bite', all four were nipped up. Cheers, Pappy I just need to do a few touch ups where the paint was scratched and the rolling chassis will nearly be complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draz87 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 This is coming along really nicely Pappy, you might just convince me to add this to my stash Keep it up mate Draz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Excellent work Pappy, looks almost real. I've been looking at Tamiya's cross head screws, they look totally out of place on a bike kit but what would be a suitable replacement? I've invested in some hex rod ( vatious sizes) from EMA Model Supplies in the UK, a sliver droped on top the the screw head looks quite good. On the other hand if Tamiya got it's act together they could produce hex nuts and small nut driver. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Wow, looks great. The shock absorber looks very realistic. Quality finish on the parts.!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 This is coming along really nicely Pappy, you might just convince me to add this to my stash Keep it up mate Draz G'day Draz, Thanks mate, you should totally get one, this is a sweet kit. Excellent work Pappy, looks almost real. I've been looking at Tamiya's cross head screws, they look totally out of place on a bike kit but what would be a suitable replacement? I've invested in some hex rod ( vatious sizes) from EMA Model Supplies in the UK, a sliver droped on top the the screw head looks quite good. On the other hand if Tamiya got it's act together they could produce hex nuts and small nut driver. Colin G'day Colin, Thanks very much. To be honest, they usually are not that much of a problem as there are not too many of them, however this particular kit seems to have an abundance of them due to the replication of the steering geometry. There are lots of PE hex fasteners around in various sized made by the likes of Studio 27 and Acustion, Model Factory Hero etc, but to be accurate you would need a range of sizes and this will mean that the cost of the kit would quickly escalate. I don't know about you but I am certainly not made of money! If Tamiya wanted to be really clever, perhaps they could retain the screws (which do an excellent job btw) but engineer their kits so that a plastic hex nut/fastener etc is glued over the top once the screw is installed. I have seen this already in some of their more recent MotoGP bike kits in regards to the handlebar attaching hardware. G'day people, Another milestone today, the front end is complete and fitted. The steering works and although it looks a little eccentric, the action is smooth and seeing all the steering parts moving is a joy to watch. I am starting to get to the stage where only the bodywork remains (shudders) so I started easing into it by completing the rear mudguard assembly I don't want to fit the rear swing arm assembly until the 'zorsts are installed. As mentioned in an earlier post, I didn't like the voids moulded into them and decided to fill them using 2-part epoxy putty. I have been beavering away at these and this is where I am up to, The rear pipes also needed to have their mould seams eliminated and they also had a few ejection pin marks that needed attention, Finally, the muffler openings were not quite round and looked a little chunky so they also got a little attention, cheers, Pappy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Excellent progress Pappy, the hex rod is from EMA's Plastruct range various sizes, 10 per pack and only a couple of quid each pack. Service is good too. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 thats looking great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks for the comments fellas. G'day people, Just a small update today, I am going to try and get the 'zorsts assembled as a single assembly and then fit them after they are painted up. This may end in tears! Once these have cured I will glue on the rear cylinder pipes. Meanwhile the front cowl has had a few coats of gloss white applied, I am waiting for the paint to cure before moving on to picking out the details, I hate gloss paints! cheers, Pappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delayar Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Great work! And that bike looks really interesting with all that steering linkages. Markus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 try test fitting the exhausts first, im not sure (bad memory) but i think i found the path to the rear cylinders too convoluted to do it as one assembly once the engine and rear shock etc were fitted. i didnt try positioning the exhaust and then fitting the engine to meet it though, im not even sure that would be possible. ill be interested to see if you can figure it out , i gave up. (it was only my third bike though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) G'day people, I am still tinkering with the 'zorsts. I had glued the front two pipes together whilst they sat on the bike, then carefully removed them. I then glued the rear cylinder pipes onto the front set and let the whole lot dry. The problem is that when I tried to get the locating pins of the rear pipes to fit into their locating holes, they resisted because the position of the front pipes naturally forces them apart. I was scratching my head for some time whilst thinking about how to get it all to fit when the front glue joint failed. At this moment I had an epiphany, that connecting bit doesn't exist on the real bike, so why does it need to be there on the kit? I sanded off these bits Dry fitting was promising! I couldn't resist temp fitting the back end Finally starting to look like a bike! cheers, Pappy Edited January 31, 2015 by Pappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Looking really good Pappy, don't know what it is with Tamiya, the zorsts always seem to be the weak point in their kits. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 wish i had known the connecting bit wasnt there and could be removed , well spotted !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 G'day people, A small update today. The 'zorsts have been primed in anticipation of painting, Still a few spots to neaten up but they are getting there. In the meantime, work has begun on the front cowling, cheers, Pappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Looks good! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Glad you are back on the case :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 G'day people, Whilst I am waiting for the putty on the 'zorsts to harden, I started work on the main cowls. The insides of these have lots of unsightly ejector pin marks. They will most likely not be seen if the cowls are fitted but I didn't want to take the chance. I brushed over the holes with severalk applications of sprue glue mix. Once this had fully dried (I usually give it a few days) the excess was sanded away. This worked beautifully, the mixture feathered into the plastic and sanded easily The left cowl needed no additional application. The right cowl however had a few minor low spots so rather than wait a few more days, a liberal application of Mr Surfacer 500 was applied and sanded back A nice result! cheers, Pappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Very nice work, love the donk. Erm... excuse my ignorance but what is a donk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Well done with the pin fill Pappy, it's coming along nicely. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Rogers Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Erm... excuse my ignorance but what is a donk? Donk = Donkey = Engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activexp Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Donk = Donkey = Engine. Ah right, thank you. It all makes sense now. I'd already ruled out a female with a large butt and a 71-76 chevy Impala or Caprice that sits on 22 to 26 inch rims the higher the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 G'day people, I spent today playing around with the 'zorsts. I bought some teensy, tiny springs to add to the 'zorsts but had to psych myself up to complete the task. I eventually took the plunge and this is the result, The hardest past was making eight similar ( won't say identical!) attachment brackets from thin copper wire. One these were glued in place, I was able to snap on the springs. A drop of CA secured everything once everything was in situ. Unfortunately, just when I was especially pleased with myself, one of the mufflers managed to land in a puddle of CA that I had been using. Once the blood pressure had returned to normal, I sanded off the offending blob, Painting tomorrow, cheers, Pappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Well done with the springs Pappy, not very easy at all in 12th scale. I did it once in 9th, drove me bananas but I made the springs as well!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Fine build sir, fine build. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now