barry136 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hello I find myself here in the realm of the boat builders for the first time. I was wondering if there are any tips for constructing handrail for 1/350 ships. I have a Trumpeter HMS Monmouth kit. If anyone has any tips on this kit, they would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Hi, I'm not aware of any dedicated after-market sets for that kit, but you can certainly find generic photo-etch railing in that scale. Here's an example of 1/350 railings by Eduard: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eduard-Photoetch-Royal-Railing-EDP99007/dp/B004OK94AY/ref=sr_1_1?s=kids&ie=UTF8&qid=1421528665&sr=1-1&keywords=1+350+railings It won't be designed specifically for any ship or kit so you'd have to measure and cut as required, but it's way quicker and easier than scratch building. Hope that's of some help. Regards, Ross. Edited January 17, 2015 by Ravens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntPhillips Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 WEM made a dedicated photo etch set for the Trumpy Type 23 kits, which included railings, hopefully it will reappear in time, Peter Hall of Atlantic Models has in the meantime announced that he will be doing an updated version in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul E Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Peter Hall at Atlantic Models shows the dedicated Photo Etch set for the Trumpeter Type 23 Frigate on his website http://atlanticmodels.net/photo-etched%20details.html as available for pre-order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 The trouble with ships like the Type 23 is that their fo'c'sle is quite a complex flared shape so that using a generic set isn't always possible. You'd be better off getting the Atlantic set when it is released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveiow Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Much like Barry,I want railings for Regia Marina. WEM used to do them ,I think-anyone know of a stockist with these at hand,if not,is there a reasonable substitute? Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveiow Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Don't bother,I just saw Atlantic's site and sent him an e-mail Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveiow Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Ordered from Atlantic on Wednesday-railings came Friday,very nice too. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafferty Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I'm starting my Airfix Daring soon, not used handrails before, how are they attached ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 They're just glued on. I use GS Hypo glue, others use superglue or Gator grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry136 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Thanks for any responses. This is my first time using PE parts, talk about a right PITA. I am also concerned about how to attach this stuff. Was thinking about drilling tiny holes along the gunwhale, anyone done this? I have ordered some PE rail and net from Antics and im dreading putting this stuff on. Any tips on handling PE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Drilling holes sounds extremely tricky; glue is probably sufficient. I run a very thin line of PVA where the rail will go; a lot of modellers use superglue. My top tips would be to work with a couple of inches of rail at a time; the more you work with the more error can creep in - especially when working with corners and bends. A pair of dividers is ideal for measuring the distances. It's a good idea to tackle the central areas first and work from the middle of the ship outwards so you don't have to work around parts that you've already placed, thus reducing the risk of bumping into them. I would typically do the rails on the edge of the deck last. A good method for bending the etch is to place it on a spongy mouse mat and use the edge of a scalpel blade to slowly press down where the bend will be until it reaches the desired angle. The mouse mat will absorb the force and the etch will bend neatly without being severed. For curving sections a suitably sized rounded object can replace the scalpel blade. I pre-paint my rails and other etch parts using an airbrush.. Some paint will likely be chipped off during handling, so I go back with a brush and use the 'overbrushing' technique to re-coat any bare areas. Hope that's of some help; these are just the methods that work for me - there's probably a number of equally effective approaches. If you've any questions then please don't hesitate to ask. Regards, Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Oh, and one more: for removing the etch from the frame a hard flat surface is good as it reduces unwanted bending. I use a stone chopping board, but any hard smooth surface should be fine. Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ytareh Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Recently fitted my first etch railings and here's what works for a beginner . Fit LONG lengths of several inches ( really as long as you can get away with up to a max of say 5-7 inches )Ideally (if not essentially ) they should start at end at a pole/ crane or similar vertical object.Use PVA glue ( not the kids stuff , buy it in a hardware shop), it dries over 24hours like glossy varnish .For the first 30-60 minutes you will have little or no 'bite' so make sure it fits well . I do NOT recommend drilling , I started out drilling every hole , then every second , then third , then realised its so impractical and agonisingly slow.You may need to cut off 'anchor points' designed on the etch for drill fitting . Make sure you have a fair bit of spare etch rail .Mistakes are inevitable .And you will need to change your scalpel blade far more frequently .Cut on a hard surface like glass , tile or a steel ruler. Good luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry136 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Many thanks for the tips. Yes the drilling option now looks too much. I have counted the number of holes required, on the Monmouth, it would be around sixty per side. I will have to experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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